Will's 1990ish Projects

[dj_crisp]

This is my last heritage DMU cut n shut project (ever) and being honest I'm not sure if this will turn out ok. I only have doing a 205 centre car as my true final MU hack project. This is probably pushing my cutting abilities too far!

 

 

Originally I had planned on a 116 DMBS but seeing as I've run out of Dapol 122 victims for roof domes I thought I'd be selling this on. However hacking the DMS for the 116 centre car meant I had a few spare sections.... And who doesn't like a knackered hybrid DMU? So against my better judgement and after a beer the hack saw came out (usual disclaimers when having a beer and sawing,.... many DMUs get hurt under such circumstances).

 

 

 

It looks a mess but thought I'd share a few test shots of the hack prior to applying filler on the roof and mistakes. Talking of filler.... as my modelling gets through alot of the stuff to hide my mistakes I'm quite impressed with White Tamiya Putty - just started trying it out and it sets rock hard and files well. Although don't be too liberal with it as it melts Bachmann's plastic (as evidenced above on the first roof join) and being rock hard takes an age to sand.

 

So best laid plans in trying to join up not needing much of repaint has been thrown out... One side the ex. DMS and DMBS lining is a good match... the other not so! Never would have noticed the DMS having different heights for lining and grey printed on each side until you come to try and line the things up. Looking forward to fixing that.... not!

 

The large white section is me attempting to remove the grille and on these occaisions I prefer Dapols printed approach ;) But for a refurbished 117 and 121 I much prefer Bachmanns moulded grille so can't really complain. 

 

I haven't studied the 115s much so if there are any glaring errors please shout as i have a fighting chance of fixing at this stage! I'm assuming the roof vents are above the doors like the 117 and also have been debating if the headcode box is slightly different? I'm wondering if the top of the headcode box is a little flatter rather than a gentle curve?

 

So the one big error i think I have is that I've lost just under 1mm in length - measuring is clearly not my strength. I'm hoping that its not too obvious when i rejoin it to it's chassis... the interior is easy to fix as that needs a hack! Worse case is saw off the rear buffer beam and re-attach and hopefully it looks passable.

 

This book is dangerous ;)

 

 

 

Happy Modelling all!

 

[37Oban]

1 hour ago, dj_crisp said:

This is my last heritage DMU cut n shut project (ever) and being honest I'm not sure if this will turn out ok. I only have doing a 205 centre car as my true final MU hack project. This is probably pushing my cutting abilities too far!

 

 

Originally I had planned on a 116 DMBS but seeing as I've run out of Dapol 122 victims for roof domes I thought I'd be selling this on. However hacking the DMS for the 116 centre car meant I had a few spare sections.... And who doesn't like a knackered hybrid DMU? So against my better judgement and after a beer the hack saw came out (usual disclaimers when having a beer and sawing,.... many DMUs get hurt under such circumstances).

 

 

 

It looks a mess but thought I'd share a few test shots of the hack prior to applying filler on the roof and mistakes. Talking of filler.... as my modelling gets through alot of the stuff to hide my mistakes I'm quite impressed with White Tamiya Putty - just started trying it out and it sets rock hard and files well. Although don't be too liberal with it as it melts Bachmann's plastic (as evidenced above on the first roof join) and being rock hard takes an age to sand.

 

So best laid plans in trying to join up not needing much of repaint has been thrown out... One side the ex. DMS and DMBS lining is a good match... the other not so! Never would have noticed the DMS having different heights for lining and grey printed on each side until you come to try and line the things up. Looking forward to fixing that.... not!

 

The large white section is me attempting to remove the grille and on these occaisions I prefer Dapols printed approach ;) But for a refurbished 117 and 121 I much prefer Bachmanns moulded grille so can't really complain. 

 

I haven't studied the 115s much so if there are any glaring errors please shout as i have a fighting chance of fixing at this stage! I'm assuming the roof vents are above the doors like the 117 and also have been debating if the headcode box is slightly different? I'm wondering if the top of the headcode box is a little flatter rather than a gentle curve?

 

So the one big error i think I have is that I've lost just under 1mm in length - measuring is clearly not my strength. I'm hoping that its not too obvious when i rejoin it to it's chassis... the interior is easy to fix as that needs a hack! Worse case is saw off the rear buffer beam and re-attach and hopefully it looks passable.

 

This book is dangerous ;)

 

 

 

Happy Modelling all!

 

I have several books on first generation dmu's and they are all dangerous!  Luckily they are all packed away pending a house move!

 

Roja

[MJI]

This is where a pile of cheap Lima come into their own.

 

But on the HD sets you can get away with a lot.

[dj_crisp]

2 hours ago, MJI said:

This is where a pile of cheap Lima come into their own.

 

But on the HD sets you can get away with a lot.

 

This is true. You can do alot with the old Lima efforts. My 117 and 156 were my favourites when getting into this railway modelling malarkey which is probably why I have a soft spot for DMUs. 

[MJI]

45 minutes ago, dj_crisp said:

 

This is true. You can do alot with the old Lima efforts. My 117 and 156 were my favourites when getting into this railway modelling malarkey which is probably why I have a soft spot for DMUs. 

 

I am trying to avoid a 115 but they are tempting, I don't think any ventured down the Lickey route.

 

Anyway I do seeing what people can do with DMU models.

[dj_crisp]

A jolly exciting parcel arrived this week.... Shawplan DMU laserglaze for front windows!

 

 

I had asked Brian if he fancied doing any laserglaze for DMUs... specifically the front windows and kindly he agreed after seeing a photo of my handmade efforts. So I loaned him a few bodies and during a quiet (?) period he's kindly added them to his range. Blatent plug but if you so wish you he should be able to supply front glazing for Bachmann 108/117/121 & 150/1, Dapol 121/122 and some 101 glazing for his rather excellent frames.

 

55024 has been nearly finished for ages and seeing as I'd only supplied a 117 body I thought I'd check they fit in the 121. In the time it took me to cut one by hand I'd done the whole bubble and fixed them in. I think they go in rather well.... 

 

 

 

I'd also been given exact dimensions for the destination box from Mark Miller and so I've attempted a revised version. Being handmade they're a bit crude so will hopefully get a bit better at them! I've fitted some overhead flashes to the inside of the glazing using railtec transfers but I've been really struggling with these as they seem to want to curl up. Additional transfers are also railtec and I did try to get them on straight but these were a bit of a pain too. At least the real ones weren't that straight ;) All have been sealed in with my usual satin varnish which ended up a bit matt for some reason. Quite pleased with the fix i did to the exhaust which required a splint and filler... hopefully i won't break another!

 

 

 

 

I've repainted the roof using a brush as I feel the as supplied roof is a bit too smooth. Weathering is my usual blast with underframe dirt from an airbrush then acrylics and also painted the buffer shaft silver. I've got a new airbrush for finer work and have used it to spray a  faint mist on the side as the white looked a bit too white for my liking. Etched wipers but other than that it's pretty standard as per the release. 

 

 

Usual conversion to EM using DCC concept wheels which have been chemically blackened then weathered. So I think it's ready for a spin!

 

[Hal Nail]

9 hours ago, dj_crisp said:

I had asked Brian if he fancied doing any laserglaze for DMUs... specifically the front windows and kindly he agreed

 

I'd also been given exact dimensions for the destination box from Mark Miller and so I've attempted a revised version.

Nice work - will see if he can be persuaded to do 7mm ones.

 

Are you able to share the destination box dimensions?

[dj_crisp]

3 hours ago, Hal Nail said:

Nice work - will see if he can be persuaded to do 7mm ones.

 

Are you able to share the destination box dimensions?

 

Sure - I only have heights as thats what I was interested in = 31cm total height of which 7.5cm thickness is bottom of the frame, just over 17.5cm is the destination opening with the remainder being the top thickness.  TBH I'm not 100% sure if the slighlty thicker piece is at the top or the bottom but I just made mine cutting some grey plastic A4 dividers roughly 1mm thick.

 

check out DMU Group West Midlands on flickr which has some excellent restoration photos

[MJI]

15 hours ago, dj_crisp said:

A jolly exciting parcel arrived this week.... Shawplan DMU laserglaze for front windows!

 

 

I had asked Brian if he fancied doing any laserglaze for DMUs... specifically the front windows and kindly he agreed after seeing a photo of my handmade efforts. So I loaned him a few bodies and during a quiet (?) period he's kindly added them to his range. Blatent plug but if you so wish you he should be able to supply front glazing for Bachmann 108/117/121 & 150/1, Dapol 121/122 and some 101 glazing for his rather excellent frames.

 

55024 has been nearly finished for ages and seeing as I'd only supplied a 117 body I thought I'd check they fit in the 121. In the time it took me to cut one by hand I'd done the whole bubble and fixed them in. I think they go in rather well.... 

 

 

 

I'd also been given exact dimensions for the destination box from Mark Miller and so I've attempted a revised version. Being handmade they're a bit crude so will hopefully get a bit better at them! I've fitted some overhead flashes to the inside of the glazing using railtec transfers but I've been really struggling with these as they seem to want to curl up. Additional transfers are also railtec and I did try to get them on straight but these were a bit of a pain too. At least the real ones weren't that straight ;) All have been sealed in with my usual satin varnish which ended up a bit matt for some reason. Quite pleased with the fix i did to the exhaust which required a splint and filler... hopefully i won't break another!

 

 

 

 

I've repainted the roof using a brush as I feel the as supplied roof is a bit too smooth. Weathering is my usual blast with underframe dirt from an airbrush then acrylics and also painted the buffer shaft silver. I've got a new airbrush for finer work and have used it to spray a  faint mist on the side as the white looked a bit too white for my liking. Etched wipers but other than that it's pretty standard as per the release. 

 

 

Usual conversion to EM using DCC concept wheels which have been chemically blackened then weathered. So I think it's ready for a spin!

 

He already does the 117, it looks great on my 116 conversion

[dj_crisp]

41 minutes ago, MJI said:

He already does the 117, it looks great on my 116 conversion

 

Thats interesting - is that for the lima version? I know i supplied him a Bachmann bodyshell to do these as the windows are a different size

cheers

[Chris56057]

The 121 looks great Will, a fantastic representation with the weathering and detailing. Makes me want to pick one up myself for a project!

[MJI]

1 hour ago, dj_crisp said:

 

Thats interesting - is that for the lima version? I know i supplied him a Bachmann bodyshell to do these as the windows are a different size

cheers

Yes lima

[NickL2008]

Thats good news Will with regards to the Laserglase, Ironically almost ready to reveal the pair ive been working on.. my 101 has had the varnish yellow sadly when I checked it, so the new windows will help it once its been fixed, thank you for posting your findings!

 

NL

 

 

[Hal Nail]

5 hours ago, dj_crisp said:

 

Sure - I only have heights as thats what I was interested in = 31cm total height of which 7.5cm thickness is bottom of the frame, just over 17.5cm is the destination opening with the remainder being the top thickness. 

Thanks, at some point I might check - I did my Dapol 121 in O by eye!

 

[dj_crisp]

6 hours ago, Chris56057 said:

The 121 looks great Will, a fantastic representation with the weathering and detailing. Makes me want to pick one up myself for a project!

 

Many thanks..... everyone needs a bubble :) 

[dj_crisp]

3 hours ago, Hal Nail said:

Thanks, at some point I might check - I did my Dapol 121 in O by eye!

 

 

Nice :) 

Are you doing 55026 in Blue or Blue/Grey? 

[dj_crisp]

5 hours ago, NickL2008 said:

Thats good news Will with regards to the Laserglase, Ironically almost ready to reveal the pair ive been working on.. my 101 has had the varnish yellow sadly when I checked it, so the new windows will help it once its been fixed, thank you for posting your findings!

 

NL

 

 

 

I look forward to seeing yours as they were looking goodnon your thread. Which varnish did you use?

 

I've just sprayed my 116 Blue and I'm debating on putting on a coat of gloss before adding transfers (they'll be dry rub down so don't need to varnish) but will be finishing off with my usual railmatch satin.

[dj_crisp]

6 hours ago, MJI said:

Yes lima

 

Nice! The glazing really improves the model. Always good to see an improved lima DMU

[Hal Nail]

1 hour ago, dj_crisp said:

 

Nice :) 

Are you doing 55026 in Blue or Blue/Grey? 

Blue but I don't like the blue square markings really so I either need to have the headcode plated over or bend the truth! 

[dj_crisp]

 

I've got this shot in my flickr faves when I was researching 70s bubbles :)

 

Looks like 55026 had a few whacks before getting the headcode box plated over!

[NickL2008]

13 hours ago, dj_crisp said:

 

I look forward to seeing yours as they were looking goodnon your thread. Which varnish did you use?

 

I've just sprayed my 116 Blue and I'm debating on putting on a coat of gloss before adding transfers (they'll be dry rub down so don't need to varnish) but will be finishing off with my usual railmatch satin.

 

Thanks Will, im nearly there with them. I used railmatch varnish too, but must of been a bad batch, I now use an acrylic based varnish which goes on very well, and so far no yellowing at all, but I ssupect there wouldnt be with this one. Its a pity as I had thought I had completed my 101, 121 in blue but sadly the yellowing is noticable, especially around the grey band and white bordering so will be re-doing the more noticable areas as I want to get something completed as the boards for the new layout are ordered so need something to play with one its all set up!

 

NL

[dj_crisp]

Damm - my preferred varnish is railmatch so I'll keep an eye on my batch! I've decided I'm going to spray my blue 116 with a coat of gloss before transfers - the paint has gone on ok but i think it'll benefit from a little light sanding and then a protective layer of gloss (which will be precision as thats all i have in stock). Won't be doing that till the weather is a little less humid so probably a few weeks time.

 

In the meantime the 115 has been the focus of my playing.... I think my 3rd fill, prime and sand is going to be my last. I've also had a go at trial fitting it to it's chassis;

 

 

It took quite a bit of hacking of the chassis to get this far. The problem being cutting this a smidge short as shown below when the front is lined up with my 118.

 

I'm a proper annoyed by this as had plently of of space to get this right by the way i cut the DMBS back off but my measuring skills clearly need alot of work. I think i missed losing thickness of a cut somewhere but hey ho. The attempted solution is to thin the front so it sits a little bit further back (but not by much to be obvious or not allow the cab to fit). Then try and blag the back of the body lines up with the bufferbeam with a bit of filing. The centre doesn't matter as it's going to have a gangway and exhaust pipes to hide things....

 

 

 

It needs a tidy up but hopefully it'll pass on the layout.

 

 

 

 

Anyhow I haven't made up my mind on the front headcode box...

 

]]

 

I think from photos the 115 box looks a touch flatter and maybe the edges are a bit sharper. TBH i can't really work it out and also I'm beginning to think it's a bit bigger.... but all of these could be a trick of the limited photographs i have.

 

Next up is EM conversions of the DMUs - will keep me quiet for a while and at least i know how to do them as my other DMUs seem to stay on the track.

 

 

[dj_crisp]

Well the DMU project has been keeping me busy.... and in the odd occaision some progress has been made. Not a particularly interesting post but some things I've been up....

 

I've converted the bubbles and 116 to EM. A fairly lengthy process fitting DCC concepts wheels to existing split axles but surprisingly all went in first time with smooth running;

 

 

They've since been chemically blackened and will be ultimately weathered.

 

I'm having a go simulating roof welds.... a pretty boring task masking it up but at least it's just one bubble!

 

 

Some projects went blue;

 

I'm really not too happy with my blue paint finish. I'm not sure if it's a new compressor since my trusty old one blew up, my mixing skills, the weather (it was hot when i painted), using quick evaporating thinners, too many layers...too few layers or even the paint used but it's turned out a bit rougher than normal. Really disappointing. Anyhow rather than strip everything and start again I'm attempting to rescue one coach to see how it looks finished under a coat of satin but first i need to sort some transfers.  A coat of gloss didn't help things tbh as that has probably added to the poor finish.

 

For a few bubbles the victims didn't have the right round buffers. It's not a spare part that Bachmann sell but as it happens I had some brass Oleo buffers in stock. Problem was they had square bases... until i put them into my minidrill and filed off the base! A before and after;

 

Almost too nice to paint! They're probably not strictly accurate but I think they look ok fitted and doing it this way meant i didn't need to faff about with the Bachmann bufferbeam to remove the plastic base;

 

Rather than admit to my DCC woes I'll just say the 116 now has working lights ;)

 

A pig of a job getting a decoder to simply work.... but I've mananged it in the TC (after what felt like 20 attempts). And typically I put it all together then realised because of the new compartment walls one compartment is in the dark.... so have added another light;

 

Crude but seems to work

 

 

I've painted the interior far all of the 116 this nice shade of blue.... a halfords rattle can which also looks a bit rough so maybe blue just looks rough! I plan on painiting the doors then spraying it all with matt varnish.

 

My preferred approach to DMUs is to have seperate decoders in each car and use Hunts couplings between - way easier to couple up! It does mean wiring up decoders though.... and I just manage to squeeze a lokpilot into the DMS

 

 

Next up is drawing some transfers and then adding details to the chassis to get them all ready for weathering - something i enjoy doing. 

 

I really hope i don't need to strip the 116!

[Hal Nail]

On 09/07/2023 at 17:12, dj_crisp said:

The attempted solution is to thin the front so it sits a little bit further back

Can't you just glue a thick slab of plasticard over the whole rear end to add a mm if you are respraying anyway?

[dj_crisp]

3 minutes ago, Hal Nail said:

Can't you just glue a thick slab of plasticard over the whole rear end to add a mm if you are respraying anyway?

 

Thanks. An interesting idea that I hadn't thought of. I'm trying to get away without a full respray as lining is a skill I haven't got to grips with. Adding a mm might make the rear end look a but strange in relation to the lining.

 

There are so many differences Vs a 117 that it's going to very much be an impression of one rather than anything exact so I'm going to try and live with it being a tad short

 

Cheers

Will