Will's 1990ish Projects

[dj_crisp]

I'm quite pleased with my 118 project;

 

 

I've painted the roof to get some texture and it'll next have a coat of weathered black to remove any shine. The prototype I've chosen trundled around St Erth/St Ives a bit and I noticed that it had different style headcode boxes (which confused me at first). So a bit of scrap brass has attempted to replicate the sealed look.

 

 

There is a small seam on the join but i can live with that (excuse the rough painting.... it's a weathering trial - honest!)

 

 

Letting the 118 dry I went on a destructive path..... removing all the bits from a 117 TCL and DMS chassis.... this shot is before I had a glass of wine and took the drastic option to cut out the TCL bogie mount to fit onto the DMS chassis;

 

 

 

Proper hacking and I've used plenty of filler!! Now just have to remember where all the bits go!

 

Also Sunday marked the end for a while of converting DMUs to EM using DCC concepts wheels using the original axles so as to not change the pickups. An easy but lengthy job. This does use up alot of solid discs but I'm planning on using the spare insulated double insulated wheels on wagons. One thing I've noticed with DCC concepts wheels is that the plastic bushes have improved on the latest 8 wheelset packs whereas the last of the 12 wheelset packs had quite a few wobblers! Still my go to wheel though for 10.5/12/14mm sizes

 

 

 

 

 

[dj_crisp]

Rather than watch TV I've cracked on with reassembling the TCL (minus L) bits onto a DMS chassis.

 

 

it isnt pretty! First up was chopping up the TCL chassis frame to provide a bearing pivot for the bogie in place where the motor should be. I wouldn't normally bother and make my own but it was easier and tbh I don't think I'd do anything with the TCL chassis frame. The chopped out section is then supported with plastikard so it's actually quite sturdy. Trusty filler then hides a few sins.

 

 

As I've been researching the underframe I've noticed a few extra wires so added these with brass wire. I'm not so sure what goes on underneath though... as shots of this area are hard to find so I ended up copying the TCL for much of it.

 

 

With a splash of Halfords Matt black I think it looks ok... I've some bogie steps to fit and then the general buffer beam detail kit but if there's anything else I've missed please shout!!

 

Bogies have been converted to EM using my standard approach of using solid disc wheels to keep the electrical pick up. Ive retained some but not all of weights and seems to hold the track well.

 

It'll look better weathered i think.

 

I admit it's a lot of effort to go to have the steps line up with the doors...! (Well also the body will click on and I'm aiming to use the DMS circuit boards for DCC lights). I really hope I can paint match the body as otherwise the project is turning out how I hoped.

[dj_crisp]

I've been working out how to illuminate the 121 DTS using a 117 DMS circuit board (so no decoder option like that in the DMBS)

 

I'm using a cheap 4 function decoder to hardwire in. First of there are alot of wires in the coupling that Bachmann uses!!! The circuit board has some helpfull lable hints as to what each one is.... and by tracing them along the circuit boards I reckon in the DMS circuit board they are ;

 

 

 

So I've wired them as follows;

 

Top of bottom board

 

Bottom of bottom board

 

As I only have a 4 function decoder I'm using the same function for interior lights as destination.

 

Anyhow it's taken a while to understand why the interior/cab and destination didn't work...... Until I hotwired the common on the top ciircuit board;

 

 

 

Amazingly my total bodge seems to work;

 

The decoder just fits between the chassis and the interior so its all nice and hidden.

 

So I know next to nothing about electrics and DCC so if I've done something daft please let me know!

 

cheers for reading 

Will

 

 

 

[NickL2008]

hi Will - I think you may have sold me on the Bachmann 117 / 121 hacking here, I have 3 Dapol 121s, the Chasiss is ok, but all the details Ive really had to work at to get them looking ok, Dapol did make quite a few errors. I must ask, how did you mount the bodies onto the Bachmann Chassis? I think I may now go dow nthe re-chassisng route myself and the Plastic Chassis Bachmann use are far less of a pain to work on, compared to Dapols' one which is all cast metal! (You can probably guess how much of a pain it was to remove the odd looking buffers and hack off some of the steps also - particularly the Railtrack one!!)

 

I look forward to seeing more progress on the 118 

 

NL

[dj_crisp]

2 hours ago, NickL2008 said:

hi Will - I think you may have sold me on the Bachmann 117 / 121 hacking here, I have 3 Dapol 121s, the Chasiss is ok, but all the details Ive really had to work at to get them looking ok, Dapol did make quite a few errors. I must ask, how did you mount the bodies onto the Bachmann Chassis? I think I may now go dow nthe re-chassisng route myself and the Plastic Chassis Bachmann use are far less of a pain to work on, compared to Dapols' one which is all cast metal! (You can probably guess how much of a pain it was to remove the odd looking buffers and hack off some of the steps also - particularly the Railtrack one!!)

 

I look forward to seeing more progress on the 118 

 

NL

 

Hi Nick

 

Cool..! You'll enjoy a spot of DMU hacking which has been quite a fun sport so far. I look forward to seeing your efforts!

 

ATM I've a very low tech solution to fitting the Dapol body onto the Bachmann chassis. It's a snug tight fit and the chassis is so light that I've used a bit of plumbers bathroom seal putty to hold the body in place (very similar to the sticky black stuff used to prevent light bleed). In fact I kind of struggled removing my RR body this evening when  I was trying to remember how I wired in the roof destination box... and that was just a bit of putty on each front.

 

The hard bit is the roof area if you want to keep Bachmanns internal lights. Some photos from earlier in my thread that haven't come back to life will hopefully better explain....

 

 

 

 

You need to get the roof off for access using this method. I'm not so sure the cross members really add much as the roof is pretty sturdy (and I couldn't save all the tabs so mine have both been superglued back on.

But having the roof off makes improving the roof a much easier task

 

 

Agree on Dapols chassis. Details aren't terrible but Bachmanns has way more finesse. I'm also expecting a high failure rate with Dapol units as the drive shafts have a really flimsy plastic end which is prone to slipping... especially if grease gets in. Its an easy fix (I've done 3 driveshafts now) but I can imagine alot of people won't bother. However Dapols slow speed running seems rather good!

 

Thanks on the 118... im pleased with the 118 so far. Doing the 121 DTS wiring this evening has kind of given me inspiration to remove Bachmanns massively ugly couplings and use decoders instead. Main problem with the couplers is i find they're a pain to seperate... I much prefer something quick and easy. 

 

I hope all this helps!

Cheers

Will

[NickL2008]

hi will - 

 

thanks for the clarification, yes some things to ponder here, the cross members are needed for the old lighting so I may see if those can be retained, but possibly not as the retaining screws will no doubt be in different places, or mounted differently. As I will be doing 121s, the blinds will be need to be retained, as paper destinations are good, but the added benefit of the Bachmann model is illuminated ones so that will add to the overall appearance. I will begin to get the parts needed, im guessing someone has brought out all of the motors etc (😬)  but at least I can make a start, as the complete model prices are still high unless a cheap one comes along perhaps. One thing I dont like is the speed odrive, its too delicate for my liking, plus one of them on my 117 broke!

 

Plenty to ponder, but thank you for the ideas and help so far

 

NL

[dj_crisp]

I've spent quite a bit of time installing decoders into my 117/118 projects and as i want to bin the horrible coupling I'm trying to have a decoder per coach. Sounds a bit OTT but I'm using ancient decoders as function only with my more modern ones for power cars. This should also allow me to have different formations should I feel inclined. So far I've done the TCL and thats working great, but I've run into problems with my DMS. I have the lights all working fine but running performance is terrible under DCC as after a while it just stutters and then the Zimo MX630R becomes unresponsive until eventually it comes back to life. It's really puzzling me as the unit with the decoder installed runs perfectly under DCC. (The decoder is wired direct to the motor and uses the circuit board pickups so don't think there is anything to mess with it. Sadly my SPORG is dead and in SPROG hospital so I can't tweak CVs).

 

Anyhow to distract me from DCC headaches (a common theme with me) I've progressed a few 101 projects;

 

The Lima TCL has had some TCL bits added to it.

 

 

I've decided this is my first and last DTCL - the water filler pipes (or whatever they are) were rather tricky to bend - I ended up using 0.6mm wire which i think looks a bit more beefy than Bachmanns and it was a challenging shape.... especially as i want them to look like a pair.

 

 

 

 

Other bits in my bodge it roof is some 0.5mm wire sanded to create a peak of sorts, then a larger brass wire which went in my minidrill and filed to suggest a cap. Then a hook of sorts made from 0.2mm wire. Hopefully this looks ok but I'm basing it off Bachmanns efforst as I have no photos of this area.

 

And as you can see removing numerals failed.... which is fine as I was deciding on updating the blue to be more of a match for Bachmanns versions, seeing as this one has plans to be with a 117 DMBS (which may become a 116).

 

 

Seeing as I've proper messed up the blue front handrails have been added as well as a door handle.

 

A new NSE livery;

 

 

 

 

This is a Bachmann DTCL which will be repsrayed into the revised blue for it's partner DMBS . And it's also recieved some new frames which I think improves the front.... and i quite like the white surronds! But I need to paint a little yellow on this before added the black surround. 

 

My Halfords white primer looks terrible!! TBF I've sanded it down as i always do but for whatever reason the white is more rough than grey. Which is a pain as I prefer to spray onto white.

 

Will

 

 

 

[billywhizz]

Hi Will. 
I’ve also found Halfords white primer to have a rough finish yet their grey primer is spot on. For white primer, I’ve started using Tamiya fine primer. A few people have mentioned Halfords white plastic primer is pretty good but not tried yet myself. 
Cheers. 
Bill. 

[mullie]

I find Tamiya sprays to be a really good reliable product and use quite a lot of them. They have the added advantage that I can buy them locally. 

[dj_crisp]

2 hours ago, billywhizz said:

Hi Will. 
I’ve also found Halfords white primer to have a rough finish yet their grey primer is spot on. For white primer, I’ve started using Tamiya fine primer. A few people have mentioned Halfords white plastic primer is pretty good but not tried yet myself. 
Cheers. 
Bill. 

Hi Bill

 

Thanks for the tip... I'll check it out when I next run out of primer. If it helps I find the plastic one to be a bit rougher than the normal one tbh. Still really like Halfords rattle cans though especially their matt black.

 

Cheers

Will

 

 

[billywhizz]

20 hours ago, dj_crisp said:

Hi Bill

 

Thanks for the tip... I'll check it out when I next run out of primer. If it helps I find the plastic one to be a bit rougher than the normal one tbh. Still really like Halfords rattle cans though especially their matt black.

 

Cheers

Will

 

 

Hi Will. 
Most Hobbycraft shops sell Tamiya primer if it helps (and you have a store local to you) 

Cheers. 
Bill. 

[lyneux]

+1 for Tamiya fine surface primer.

 

DMU projects looking good!

 

Guy

[dj_crisp]

17 hours ago, lyneux said:

+1 for Tamiya fine surface primer.

 

DMU projects looking good!

 

Guy

Thanks Guy

 

Is it ok to spray enamels on it?

 

cheers

Will

[lyneux]

2 hours ago, dj_crisp said:

Thanks Guy

 

Is it ok to spray enamels on it?

 

cheers

Will

 

Yes, no problem once it's dry. Best to give it a day or so.

 

But I have had a problem spraying it over the top of enamels when they are not 100% dry (why would you do that though, right?).

 

Guy

[dj_crisp]

15 hours ago, lyneux said:

 

Yes, no problem once it's dry. Best to give it a day or so.

 

But I have had a problem spraying it over the top of enamels when they are not 100% dry (why would you do that though, right?).

 

Guy

Thanks Guy!

I think I'll switch and try them out.

[dj_crisp]

What to do on the hottest day of the year (so far) ?? get out the airbrush of course!

 

Various DMU victims have had a splash of paint over recent weeks and while my airbrushing isn't that great I like to take test shots to see what looks wrong etc! I've been learning which paint matches.... and which paint doesn't!

 

First up is paint matching Bachmanns BR Blue on the 121 DTS. I'm quite pleased with Rainbow Railways enamel which despite me trying to paint myself with it looks quite close to my eyes

 

 

The work to hide the engine filler cap thing has gone ok this side.... (less said about the other side ATM as I've leant precision P133 rail grey needs a splash of humbrol matt 64 grey in order to paint match :(  And I've bought some white paint for lining. It'll all hopefully survive and look ok )

 

 

The corridor has been removed and although slightly noticeable I have a few characteristic dents ;) I'm sure with some satin varnish this will blend in nicely. As soon as I've sorted the other side this will get some varnish then weathering.

 

While the blue paint was out I decided I didn't like Lima's Blue and so took decided foolishly to prime and respray the blue as I really didn't think I'd be able to match the original and it might look a bit odd next to a Bachmann DMU.. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Roof will be painted next - I haven't decided if the toilet filler pipes should be black or blue? If you know please let me know.

 

 

It wasn't the easiest job tbh and I've ended up doing quite a bit of lining.,.. oh and i've learnt Lima's grey is Humbrol Matt 64 with a splash of Precision P133 - hopefully I've got away with that.

 

 

And is always the way with me I managed to spray one of the drivers windows yellow so will have to make my own replacement. Yellow is Precision Pre 85 which funningly enough is a good match for Bachmann's post 85 NSE yellow as below;

 

 

I tried to be neat and add Shawplans frames without needing to respray any yellow, but that didn't quite succeed so have ended up blending the edges of the frames in ready for painting the black surrounds. The plan for this DTCL is to go with a 116 DMBS so I needed to paint it in revised blue. I used precision NSE paints and that clearly doesn't match Bachmann's blue - but tbf there are loads of shades of NSE Blue and theirs is a nice blue on their NSE 117/121s. The NSE branding is in the original Blue.... which I'm ignoring as I'm sure there was the odd relivery that didn't bother with logos (I hope). I'm not looking forward to painting the bodyside window frames black so will see how it looks with a bit of glazing in. Problem is Bachmanns seem a little on the small size so i probably won't get away with it.

 

Anyhow my "easy" 116 conversion is progressing but not particularly to plan. Apart from the obvious Derby cab roof there are a few annoying differences between a 116 and a refurbished 117.

 

 

These are my observations and if you know more please let me know as I'm totally guessing!

- remove guards air vent

- remove guards hand rails and install two piece handrails

- removed all handrails on the front cab

- change cab roof 

 

It didn't sound too difficult at outset.... but I also have to remove a headlight and just for fun I thought it was a good idea to remove the light lenses which of course broke on the final one. I'm just rebuilding one side with some brass tube and trusty filler

 

 

 

I'm going to try some Tamiya primer as I don't want to have to do as much sanding!

 

And lastly my NSE 121 has had some transfers added;

 

 

I think i stirred my satin varnish too much as it's a little bit more mat than usual. Of course I need to rebuild an exhaust which I'm sure broke on it's own as I can't find it - something else to build as these aren't available as spares. Hey ho

 

 

Stay cool!!!

Will

 

 

Edited July 18, 2022 by dj_crisp

[Rich Papper]

Really enjoying following this build Will, thanks for sharing. I have L210 on my to do pile as well. Have done all the various with Lima bits a fair few times and now plucking up the courage to start chopping up a Bachmann one. Good luck with it.

Rich

[dj_crisp]

On 12/08/2022 at 23:06, Rich Papper said:

Really enjoying following this build Will, thanks for sharing. I have L210 on my to do pile as well. Have done all the various with Lima bits a fair few times and now plucking up the courage to start chopping up a Bachmann one. Good luck with it.

Rich

 

Thanks Rich! Looking forward to seeing your L210!

I've been distracted with painting platforms and general layout building over the last few weeks but will be back on the DMUs soon

[Hal Nail]

On 20/06/2022 at 14:38, dj_crisp said:

 

I also thinned the front windows and did homemade laserglaze which I think improves the face of the model no end!

Agreed! Thats very good.

 

Im interested to know how you did this? I'm tarting up a Dapol one in 7mm which is quite a nice model but the prismatic glazing is its weak link. My Warship and 47 would both look better with decent glazing as well so cracking home made replacements would be a useful tip.

[Hal Nail]

these any help?

 

https://www.dccsupplies.com/?s=121+exhaust&post_type=product&dgwt_wcas=1

[dj_crisp]

14 hours ago, Hal Nail said:

Agreed! Thats very good.

 

Im interested to know how you did this? I'm tarting up a Dapol one in 7mm which is quite a nice model but the prismatic glazing is its weak link. My Warship and 47 would both look better with decent glazing as well so cracking home made replacements would be a useful tip.

 

Thanks - Nothing too sophisticated. I filed the window frames at an angle so the back of the frame in the middle is at original thickness leaving enough space for the new glazing which is 0.5mm perspex,  then clean up using a blade. The perspex is cut to size for height and width then I file the corners to a rough shape. I do find i have a number of rejects! Then as with laserglaze use a sharpie to prevent light refraction and fix using humbrol clear.

 

 

 

As you can see I'm not that neat!

 

Thanks for sharing the Dapol exhausts - they're my backup plan as I prefer the Bachmann version which has a little more rounded bends. I'm sure i have the broken bit somewhere just that it hasn't surfaced for a while!

 

[Hal Nail]

3 minutes ago, dj_crisp said:

I filed the window frames at an angle so the back of the frame in the middle is at original thickness leaving enough space for the new glazing which is 0.5mm perspex,  then clean up using a blade. The perspex is cut to size for height and width then I file the corners to a rough shape.

Funny - I've regularly filed down white metal kits (including windows) and for that matter plastic brake gear/bogies etc to reduce the depth but never occurred to me to do the same trick with glazing!

[The Fatadder]

Will have to try that trick on my mk2d BSOs  door windows 

[sulzer71]

On 18/07/2022 at 16:05, dj_crisp said:

I'm going to try some Tamiya primer as I don't want to have to do as much sanding!

 

If you airbrush then I've recently been using Mr Finishing Surfacer 1500 thinned with Mr Color Levelling thinner and it dries super flat and smooth

Edited August 16, 2022 by sulzer71

[dj_crisp]

On 15/08/2022 at 23:00, Hal Nail said:

Funny - I've regularly filed down white metal kits (including windows) and for that matter plastic brake gear/bogies etc to reduce the depth but never occurred to me to do the same trick with glazing!

 

On 16/08/2022 at 05:37, The Fatadder said:

Will have to try that trick on my mk2d BSOs  door windows 

 

Pleased it's a bit of a help.

 

My modelling is all about deception and what bodge i think i can get away with!! While not better than etched versions I thin loco snow ploughs edges, class 33 roof pods etc in the same way. I think it looks a bit better