RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted October 31, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 31, 2015 Enjoying watching this build and, despite luddite reservations concerning a kit with a big lump of resin, I'm very impressed with the outcome. Having argued endlessly with a kit that has you form the pannier etc from brass, I can see the benefits of the resin casting. One question for those that know about GWR tanks, would one of the variants of the jltrt kit suit pannier 4666? From what I can tell the cab is different from the model being built here. Thanks for any help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted October 31, 2015 Share Posted October 31, 2015 Enjoying watching this build and, despite luddite reservations concerning a kit with a big lump of resin, I'm very impressed with the outcome. Having argued endlessly with a kit that has you form the pannier etc from brass, I can see the benefits of the resin casting. One question for those that know about GWR tanks, would one of the variants of the jltrt kit suit pannier 4666? From what I can tell the cab is different from the model being built here. Thanks for any help. Hi Chris, Your 4666 is a loco from the 8750 class and JLTRT do offer a kit for this class along with the 57xx in both forms. Martyn. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted October 31, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 31, 2015 Hi Chris, Your 4666 is a loco from the 8750 class and JLTRT do offer a kit for this class along with the 57xx in both forms. Martyn. Thank you Martyn, having watched this build go together I must say I'm tempted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAD Posted October 31, 2015 Author Share Posted October 31, 2015 I've been quietly following and enjoying this thread, the kit is going together really well. However... I'm now going to be one of those annoying people who points something out. The top feed looks like it's in the wrong place and should sit further forwards, not inline with the centre of the filler caps. It didn't look quite right to me when I was pondering the pipework routing so had a look for a prototype pic to confirm and found this. http://s144.photobucket.com/user/myfordmatt/media/Buckfast080707/Buckfast08070769.jpg.html AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAARGH!!!! I agree it's too far back. Many thanks for picking up on that as I would have been really annoyed if the paint was on. I now know why the pipes appeared to be too long and would not fit. Hopefully I can get it off without damaging and refit in the correct place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAD Posted October 31, 2015 Author Share Posted October 31, 2015 The top feed is off and no damage. Panic over.Thanks again to 57xx for pointing out the error, and to Dave for the prototype photos. Cheers, Peter 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAD Posted October 31, 2015 Author Share Posted October 31, 2015 Had a look at the pictures Dave posted. Very usefull, but as allways you need to be carefull when using pictures of preserved engines as reference. The shot of the tank tops shows the pipe work modified from how it was in service. This is how it should look, apart from the wrongly positioned top feed. I've removed the pipes and top feed and hopefully I can salvage the white metal flange when I replace. GW engines are not my forte so if any of you western efficionardos spot any other errors please let me know. The wire I used looks a little thick I think, so I'll use a thinner grade when I replace. 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 57xx Posted October 31, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 31, 2015 The top feed is off and no damage. Panic over.Thanks again to 57xx for pointing out the error, and to Dave for the prototype photos. Cheers, Peter No problem. It feels horrible having to point it out, but worth it when it helps someone out, especially like you say before it's painted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daifly Posted October 31, 2015 Share Posted October 31, 2015 Had a look at the pictures Dave posted. Very useful, but as always you need to be careful when using pictures of preserved engines as reference. The shot of the tank tops shows the pipe work modified from how it was in service. Agree completely. I was intending that Warren's photos would indicate the relative positions of topfeed and tank filler. The pipework layout is, as you rightly point out, very different to its original appearance. The photos linked to by 57xx in post #49 show a more prototypical arrangement (even though it's a preserved loco)! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAD Posted October 31, 2015 Author Share Posted October 31, 2015 Agree completely. I was intending that Warren's photos would indicate the relative positions of topfeed and tank filler. The pipework layout is, as you rightly point out, very different to its original appearance. The photos linked to by 57xx in post #49 show a more prototypical arrangement (even though it's a preserved loco)! Fully understand and appreciate you posting the photos. Mind you, not much good if some numpty (like me), doesn't check before fixing top feeds in place. Got enough pictures to have not made the error, but still messed up. Thanks again. I'm in Scotland next week so might give Jltrt a ring, and if they have the pipe castings in stock, make a detour know the way back and pick up a new set. Cheers, Peter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAD Posted November 6, 2015 Author Share Posted November 6, 2015 I have now re fixed the top feed further forward but don't have any suitable rod to make the pipes. Decided not to get another pair of cast ones from JLTRT as the shape is wrong, and being white metal I think they would just fracture if I tried to modify. I need to get some suitable rod when I am back home, as I could not find a decent model shop in Glasgow where I am working this week. Instead I added some of the remaining etched parts to the smoke box and cab roof. The smoke box dart looked a bit emaciated to me and the base ring was too small, so I made a replacement from scratch. I also turned the tank filler stops from fitting front to back, to side to side. I have noted that these varied from loco to loco in how they were fitted. Finally I added the cab roof ventilator, lance cock, front steps and the valve cover below the smoke box door. Cheers, Peter 12 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted November 6, 2015 Share Posted November 6, 2015 I use copper from household wire etc for my pipework. Nice job you have made of it. I have only made brass panniers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted November 6, 2015 Share Posted November 6, 2015 Another Master Class Peter, Superb. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAD Posted November 6, 2015 Author Share Posted November 6, 2015 I use copper from household wire etc for my pipework. Yes, I do the same when I can but have depleted my stock and don't have any of a suitable gauge. Hobby craft have a range of wires for jewellery making, some of it actual copper so I'll see if they have anything. The other option is annealed brass rod but I'm sure I'll find something. suitable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 57xx Posted November 6, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 6, 2015 Yes, I do the same when I can but have depleted my stock and don't have any of a suitable gauge. Hobby craft have a range of wires for jewellery making, some of it actual copper so I'll see if they have anything. The other option is annealed brass rod but I'm sure I'll find something. suitable. How long would each bit need to be? I have stacks of 1.5mm and 2.5mm T&E in the workshop from an old house rewire, I could get some 10" long pieces into an C5 envelope. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAD Posted November 7, 2015 Author Share Posted November 7, 2015 How long would each bit need to be? I have stacks of 1.5mm and 2.5mm T&E in the workshop from an old house rewire, I could get some 10" long pieces into an C5 envelope. Thanks for the kind offer but 1.5 mm is too large, and I have now found some suitable wire. Cheers, Peter 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 57xx Posted November 8, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 8, 2015 Good to hear you're sorted. I found I've still got 1mm too lol Be useful for future projects here I'm sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted November 8, 2015 Share Posted November 8, 2015 Thanks for the kind offer but 1.5 mm is too large, and I have now found some suitable wire. Cheers, Peter 1.5mm copper wire from electric cable is 1.5mm in area not diamter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAD Posted November 8, 2015 Author Share Posted November 8, 2015 Got some 1.2mm silver plated copper wire from Hobbycraft. It's more likely to be tin plated but no matter. I annealed a length with a butane burner and the plating just melts away. The wire then looks dark grey but a rub with some emery paper should clean it up. Also picked up a little gizmo for straightening coiled wire which worked a treat in the quick try I made. Will post some pics later. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigbadbadge Posted November 8, 2015 Share Posted November 8, 2015 Wow lovely looking Kit and great work. Looks fabulous. All the bestChris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAD Posted November 11, 2015 Author Share Posted November 11, 2015 Here's the wire from Hobbycraft. During annealing the tin plating burns off and any that remains can be rubbed off with emery paper. In the end as the pipes will be painted I didn't bother shining them up the wire before fitting. I managed to salvaged the W/M cast flanges from the original attempt at the pipes. Next up the buffers. Here's the problem I mentioned earlier. As can be seen, with the nut screwed fully home, the shank is way too far out. Also even after increasing the thread length with a 10 BA die, it is still not possible for the buffers to go in any further as there is insufficient clearance for the shank and the spring when compressed. First I had to drill out the stocks with a 4 mm bit as far as I dare without going through the back. However, even then the collar that slips over the shank with the head is still too long. I then had to grind off about 1 mm from each collar before the buffers would work satisfactorily. Here's then end result. There is now enough compression but the thread is still a little short. However, after painting I will fit washers before the nut, to move the heads back. Why on earth do they make the shanks like this and why is the thread so short! In any case it was now onto the buffer beam which I did with epoxy, as it allows time for adjustment to ensure they are parallel/square. It's also easier to remove excess epoxy than excess solder. Also realized that I have not fitted the remaining grab rails on the side of the cab rear on the left and the cab roof. I got the one on the side fitted but then ran out of time. Cheers, Peter 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted November 11, 2015 Share Posted November 11, 2015 I always find the detailing goes on and on. Photos of the model are often good for finding bits that are missing. It is looking very good for a GW loco. Do you have a livery for it as yet? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted November 12, 2015 Share Posted November 12, 2015 (edited) It is looking very good for a GW loco. With that, Peter lights the blue touch paper and retires........................ Edited November 12, 2015 by david.hill64 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAD Posted November 12, 2015 Author Share Posted November 12, 2015 It is looking very good for a GW loco. Do you have a livery for it as yet? It will be in BR black but have not decided which number yet. A number options I considered have the spare lamp brackets on the running plate near the cab but mine are by the front splasher. I will either have to move them or compromise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted November 12, 2015 Share Posted November 12, 2015 With that, Peter lights the blue touch paper and retires........................ And what do I have in my to do list. A Dukedog and Saint. Even I get to build some of them wonderful green locos 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted November 12, 2015 Share Posted November 12, 2015 (edited) I have zero use for any GWR locos, hardly saw any as a kid, even fewer large LMS, but would still like to build some. Edited November 12, 2015 by JeffP Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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