Cheapside Yard - RIP (Ripped into pieces!)

[BG John]

After yesterday's major vandalism, I thought I'd do something a bit more subtle today. This is the only turnout that I can't hide under the cobbles, so it will be ballasted with ash. The aim is to ballast over the sleepers to hide as much of the OO track as possible, but I can't do that around the moving parts of the turnout. So I've done what I'm doing for the plain narrow gauge track, and doubled up the sleepers. I cut through the webbing, slid them together in pairs, and added a couple of drops of superglue to hold them together and to the rail. I'll improve the appearance just in the places I can't hide under ballast later. I've only done the moving parts, as I didn't want all the hassle I had yesterday with almost trashing the crossing, but that will get some extra ballast to hide it!

 

I don't know how the turnouts will be operated yet, so I've left the Peco tiebar intact until I decide.

 

 

 

[BG John]

I haven't mentioned the baseboard before, as I forgot to take any photos before starting to build the mock-up on it. Today I dismantled the mock-up ready to start for real, so took a couple of photos.

 

Whenever chipboard is mentioned as a baseboard material on RMweb, there are cries of "don't do it because it's too heavy", or "it will disintegrate if it gets wet", and I usually chip in with some remark about the exhibition layout I built with it that worked well and lasted for years! I'm not sure this one will last as well, but I've used the same method as I used all those years ago. The difference is that last time I used new chipboard from a builders merchant, and this time it's from old MFI style bedroom furniture that came with the house. I also live in an old house in wet Wales now, rather than a modern one in Berkshire!

 

Construction was pretty straightforward, and involved screwing and gluing together six bits of chipboard. The top is 4ft x 1ft, the front is 4ft x 3½in, two ends about 16in x 12in, the back 4ft and a bit x 16in, and the strengthening piece 1ft x 3½in. Of course just to complicate things, I didn't have a long enough piece for the back, so it's actually in three bits, but anyone in their right mind who copies this would go out and buy a bit the right length . Before assembling it, I cut out a hole in one end where the track will go into the fiddle yard with a jigsaw, but all the other cutting was done by hand. Assembly was just a matter of screwing it together, making sure that everything was square, then removing parts, adding PVA and re-screwing. On edges where the chipboard is exposed, I sealed it with a generous amount of PVA worked in with a finger. You may notice some extra holes in the boards. Some were there already, although I did get a few screw holes in the wrong place first time, but it will all be hidden eventually!

 

Is it heavy, and does it matter? The board currently weighs 14kg, but it won't be moved very often, so it doesn't really matter. I can carry it on my own when necessary. It's much lighter than the 25kg dog I used to carry over stiles and gates quite often, because he decided it was easier than bothering to jump over them!

 

 

 

Today, I cut out a hole for the sector plate. Hopefully it's in the right place, and a bit oversize, so I don't have to hack it about after the track is laid. I've screwed a new piece of chipboard under the board, screwed up from underneath so I can remove it. It dawned on me after I'd drilled holes in the top, that there will be cork underlay covering them very soon!

 

 

The next job is to start on the fiddle yard board, although I won't get far as I've just ordered some bits for it, on eBay of course, where just about everything I've bought for this layout has come from. So I'll probably stick down the cork underlay while I'm waiting, and may start track laying.

[peter220950]

Looking good, as you say there's nothing wrong with chipboard if used correctly, and it should keep you fit moving it. At least by using old furniture you get a smooth surface on it, look forward to seeing updates. 

 

Peter

[BG John]

The backscene on the previous one had a bit of texture to it, where the sky paper was stuck to the chipboard. There will be low-relief buildings along most of Cheapside Yard and very little sky, reducing the benefit of the smooth surface! I built these boards in about 1986, and scrapped them in 2007 when they seemed to be in perfect condition even after years dumped in the loft.

 

 

 

 

[BG John]

The layout is currently in my workshop, where I started building the fiddle yard board. I ordered the bits I need for the traverser last weekend, and had a delivery on Tuesday, but one bit was missing and other bits were the wrong size, despite the packaging saying they were the right size! The eBay seller is being a bit slow in dealing with it, so I need to get tough, and it's delaying construction. I stuck down half the cork underlay today though, and it's currently weighted down with my big box of power tools, and the box where I keep most of my supply of screws. Hopefully it won't be crushed under the weight! I should get the rest stuck down in the morning, and when the glue is set I might start track laying.

[BG John]

The baseboard, with it's new covering of cork underlay, is currently being used to display part of my hammer collection. What's underneath will be revealed when the glue dries.

 

 

Meanwhile, battle is being waged with a Chinese eBay seller, who sent the wrong linear bearings and only one of the two shafts I ordered for the fiddle yard. He's slowly starting to realise I won't give in without a fight!!!

[sir douglas]

and what a nice collection you have too

[BG John]

and what a nice collection you have too

That's only part of it. I inherited quite a variety from my Dad!

 

They've now been removed, and what's underneath is exposed, but it's in a different part of the house to the camera.

[rue_d_etropal]

Seems to be a lot of track vandalism there. Might I suggest my 3D printed option, which includes mixed gauge.

[BG John]

Seems to be a lot of track vandalism there. Might I suggest my 3D printed option, which includes mixed gauge.

I'm not sure your 3D printing is compatible with my Low Cost objective!

[rue_d_etropal]

3D printing might look expensive, but in long term is possibly a better investment, as track can be taken up and reused in new layouts. I have been there and modified Peco points. They are tough enough to take the strain, but are not infallible.

Low cost means different things in different scales. In O gauge , I think my 3D printed track is not bad value, and is relatively quick to install, so layout is finished quicker. It would certainly cost less than a Dapol Terrier.

Edited August 6, 2015 by rue_d_etropal

[BG John]

But all of my track cost about the same as two bits of yours without rail! Your salesmanship won't work with me . But I could reuse the rail with some of your track in future. Or use my Silhouette Portrait to cut the cobbles and solder it to widely spaced copper clad sleepers!

 

And this is just somewhere to run my Terrier until the layout that doesn't need paved track is ready for it!

[rue_d_etropal]

^{There is nothing wrong in doing it yourself, but one thing I have observed over the many years I have been in the hobby, has been how few layouts with inset track there have been and most of the ones I have seen use ballasted points to get round the problem of infilling the point. Having tried it on a number of occasions with various fillers, I can understand the reluctance to infill the point, especially on exhibition layouts.  I don't think lack of layouts with infilled track has been through lack of interest ,but the difficulties most people have building their own track.}

^{The complex trackwork often found in very small industrial areas and dockyards, is ideal for those wanting a small layout that not only looks interesting but is fun to operate. I tried the old Hartel tram tram many years ago but its tight curves designed for trams don't suit many of our model trains. In O gauge there is the ETS system, if you can get hold of it, and it has even tighter curves. The current Tillig Luna HO tram track system, is not proper rail, and the cobbled version is just a print, yet costs about as much as my track. I tend to use second hand, cheap, flexi track as a source of rail.}

^{This all led me to considering designing something myself, which I could use myself, and offer to others. Hopefully the new BRM dockyard project will increase interest in building small layouts with inset track. and then there are my working wagon turntables. No self respecting industrial/dockyard complex should be without at least one wagon turntable, and it adds a new operating challenge and interest.}

 

^{I will be following progress on this layout with interest.}

[BG John]

I agree with everything you say Simon. It's just that I wouldn't have started this layout if it was going to cost much. One of the reasons to build it is to practice with my new Silhouette Portrait, so I've got in mind using it to cut the infills. All the track components were drawn up in Inkscape or GIMP for the mockup, so it shouldn't be difficult. I'll probably do temporary infills using printed paper for now though.

 

Much as I'd love a wagon turntable, I think it would end up too cramped if I tried to squeeze one in.

[rue_d_etropal]

I will be interested to see how the infills work out,. I was tempted to do something for laser cutting, but infills can only go so far. Still need to hide sleepers, which can be done.

Never know, you might decide you like inset track you want to build something else. As for wagon turntables, it is never too cramped to fit one.

Silhouette cutters, I thought could only cut, or can they in effect engrave.

For large area of stone setts, I found that the Slaters 2mm scale paving slabs embossed plastic is very close in size to the stones on my larger scale(ie O and G1), that is 2 rows per 7mm. This would probably suit all areas except where stone follow curves. Reasonably low cost as well.

Edited August 6, 2015 by rue_d_etropal

[BG John]

Sorry about the lack of updates for a while, but it would only have been a sorry tale of dodgy eBay sellers sending wrong bits and wrong quantities, then trying to avoid dealing with the consequences, followed by very nice and helpful sellers sending me faulty stuff, who are a pleasure to deal with while sorting it out, but still delay progress. I'm supposed to be building this quick and simple layout to help deal with the stress I'm under at the moment, not create more of it!!

 

Anyway, I now almost have a fiddle yard. It's not the one I'd planned, but at least it looks like it will do the job. The plan was to have a single track traverser for the standard gauge inglenook, and to slide it clear of the "main line" and drop in a cassette for the narrow gauge. The traverser was going to run on linear bearings, which is what I had all the trouble with. The bearings were labelled correctly but were the wrong size, and I only got one of the two shafts I ordered. Having finally got that sorted, I started building it, but couldn't get it to go together properly. I think I was pushing using old bits of kitchen unit chipboard a bit too far. So I'll use the linear bearings on a future project with better quality material.

 

I had a couple of Station Road Baseboards sliding drawer runners that I'd bought for another project where I've had a change of plan. My initial thought was that they are only suitable for a multi-track traverser feeding a single track, and I was doing the opposite, so they wouldn't work. As both parts are the same length, most of the time they would stick out of the front or back of the baseboard. I tried cutting one down, being very careful not to bend it, but even so, it bent just enough to keep getting jammed. Then a new idea stuck me!

 

I realised that if I made the traverser wide enough for two tracks, I could have separate standard and narrow gauge lines on it, and do away with the cassette idea. I also decided that the runners sticking out at the front would allow me to attach a nice big comfortable operating handle. All should become clearer when the hammers and lump of chipboard holding down the cork while the glue dries are removed, so I'll go into more detail later.

 

The first point is almost working. I decided the simplest method is a slide switch and wire in tube. I've used Mercontrol copper tube in the past, but it's not available any more, and I didn't want to mess around trying to find alternative sources. So I bought some Modratec tube and wire from DCC Supplies, as it's cheaper than Mercontrol and delivery seemed to be much quicker. The problem is that it's huge! The copper tube can be buried in a channel cut in 1/8" cork, but this stuff sticks up by almost the thickness of Peco OO sleepers. It's also very stiff. Using the supplied 1mm wire, I was afraid that it would bend or break the plastic Peco tiebar, as I've had to put an S-bend in it and the wire wanted to stay straight. So I used 0.5mm wire instead. I drilled a 0.5mm hole in the side of the switch lever, and bent a loop in the other end to hook over the tiebar. The throw of the switch, along with the play in the wire in the tube, seems just right for operating the point, so hopefully this simple arrangement is all I need.

 

The four parallel lines in the photo mark to two sidings I haven't laid yet, and because the tube is so big, I've had to cut a lot of the sleepers away to cross it. I think I'll have to solder the rail to a few screws to get round the problem. None of it will show, as it will be hidden under the cobbles, but it's a bit annoying.

[ColinK]

A cheaper option for point control - bit of spare rail on its side, bent paperclip soldered to one end goes through tiebar, bend other end of rail up 90 degrees for a handle. Hold rail in place on top of baseboard with large staples.

 

For a neater job, make groove in baseboard for rail.

 

For the delux version I've created a channel for the rail between to offcuts of balsa, then when you are sure its working, carefully glue a bit of cardboard over the top. You can then cover it with scenery.

 

i've done similar things using piano wire (very hard to cut), bike spokes and metal coathanger wire.

 

Polarity of the frog can be achieved by drilling a hole in a slider switch and running the wire through it. On my last layout I simply had a switch mounted next to the control end of the point rod. Just tell your friends its the point lock!

[raymw]

Hi John,

Maybe a bit late now, but search for 'copper capillary tube' - ebay has it for about a fiver for 3metre length, for example. If you want something cheaper, then you can easily get pneumatic nylon tubing, 4mm od, but 2.5mm bore, which will need more support, or burying in top of baseboard. Afaik, the modratec stuff is the same as the stretchy curtain wire which  you can buy in most any diy shed for about £1.50 for ten foot (but the sheath is white).

 

Best wishes,

 

Ray

[CourthsVeil]

Hi John,

you here have a short distance to span – in this case you might try out an idea I described in my Port Chambre thread there ('addendum' at end of post). This certainly is much lower than the tube you use and will easily fit into the cork.

And the circuitry to change frog polarity is shown in this post; just one DPDT-switch (the left hand one in my drawing) to perform all: 1) movement of blades, 2) polarity change and 3) power the chosen track at point heel.

Regards

   Armin

 

 

edit: Ray was faster than me…

Edited August 29, 2015 by CourthsVeil

[BG John]

Thanks for all the suggestions. The original plan was to use a lever frame in the front left corner, so wire in tube was about the only option. Otherwise I may well have used a length of rail. It would have been much easier to have a straight run for the one I've done, but I decided to curve it so the switch isn't under the goods platform. I need to put one more in a tube with a bit of a curve on it, then the other switch will be connected directly to the point. I'm having trouble getting my head round that fact that this is a layout for me to play with, and not intended to be exhibited, so it's OK to scatter controls along the front of it, rather than hide them away! This bigger tube may be useful for operating the sector plate. I think it's too far from where I'll normally operate from to work it directly, but I haven't worked that out yet. My current priority is to get the standard gauge running, and I needed this point working so I can lay the other siding over the tube.

[hartleymartin]

You can also use gear and brake cables for bicycles. Some local shops used to have them on clearance for $1 each, which made it convenient. Unfortunately, one of my other hobbies is fixing up old bicycles so that's where they get used for me!

[BG John]

The other bit of tube is in place now, and I'll connect it up like the first one. I thought I might have a problem as the spring in the Peco point wasn't working, but I found it had just slipped out of place, so it works now. The last point will be connected directly to the switch.

 

My hammer collection is in use again, holding down the narrow gauge track on the traverser, and I've had to use a big adjustable spanner as well as a couple of hammers on another bit I laid today. Things are plodding along slowly, as the layout is still in the workshop, as I've got some more woodwork bodging to do before I can bring it back where I don't have to make a big effort to get to it.

[BG John]

I've laid the narrow gauge track on the traverser. The standard gauge will probably be on widely spaced copper clad sleepers, as it will be visible, and my widened OO track isn't exactly the most beautiful sight to behold! The track spacings don't comply with the usual standards, but should work for what I'll be running on it! The first photo shows the traverser with the narrow gauge lined up, and is as far back as it needs to go. The second photo shows where it will be when lined up with the front siding. I'm hoping that I'll be able to line the tracks up by eye, and the big handle will make it easy and comfortable to work when shunting the inglenook. As it's an important part of operating the layout, rather than something that just gets visited during breaks in operation, I want to avoid having to lock it in place every time I move it. If it doesn't work, I'll have to think again.

 

 

 

I've also laid the narrow gauge run round loop, but you can't see it until the glue dries!

 

[railwayrod]

Great Stuff B G John. I like the use you are making of your hammer collection!

 

Rod

[BG John]

I lost my sledgehammer when I sold my last house, although it probably wasn't really suitable for this anyway. I think most of them have had more use for this than for hammering things with. I tend to stick with my favourite one for hitting things, but it's too light for this job!