RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted April 6, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted April 6, 2016 Plenty of time yet. Further musing has concluded I can now lay the rail, pre wired for the common feed from the relays and nicked to the length of each section. To give depth for the relays I'm going to raise the rail by a few mm. According to the scale drawings the outrigger wheel was slightly lower than the rail. As the whole layout is a circle, I might raise the track for this slightly, to give a touch of super-elevation. Then inside these two raised rims I can lay the two bus wires, then add the individual feeds from each relay and finalise the relay position. I will be following Armin's method of sticking the relay to card first. The rail can then be cut through at each nick. Once this is all done, some light card will be used to cover the gap between the rail and the outrigger path, hiding the relays & wiring. All sounds so simple... 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted April 6, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted April 6, 2016 A second coat of paint has been added to the house roof and the car has had a wash of rust. There is more to do in this area still... 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edwardian Posted April 6, 2016 Share Posted April 6, 2016 Looking good. Would look better without the car! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stuart Birks Posted April 6, 2016 Share Posted April 6, 2016 Just a thought but I would be cautious about putting super elevation on the outrigger as it will do exactly the wrong thing for the balance. I know this would be easy to compensate for with a bit of weight put in the right place but I don't think the prototype would have had any super elevation. On the contrary it may have negative elevation to help tip the loco and coach towards the outrigger. No proof for this, just the way I might have done it. Stuart. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted April 6, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted April 6, 2016 Thanks Stuart. I have to admit I have no idea how well the chassis will work under power - will it constantly de-rail, will the outrigger cause too much friction, etc. All to be discovered ( soon !!). And the car will not be placed in front of the house ( and I know it's completely wrong time-wise) but, as the PSMT is actually still running, albeit within the museum, there might be a possibility that it did once pass a rusting heap of a car. More work on the r/h side this evening, but it is cold in the garage. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted April 6, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted April 6, 2016 Getting there 11 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted April 7, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted April 7, 2016 Some details and a slap of paint on the castle / town wall Meanwhile, more reed switches have been ordered, should arrive tomorrow for a marathon soldering session over the weekend. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Mallard60022 Posted April 7, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 7, 2016 Some details and a slap of paint on the castle / town wall 20160407_203000.jpg Meanwhile, more reed switches have been ordered, should arrive tomorrow for a marathon soldering session over the weekend. When you have finished with this layout can I please have that portal for the other (North West) portal on Honiton Incline? Thanks, M. Ghandi 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted April 7, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted April 7, 2016 When you have finished with this layout can I please have that portal for the other (North West) portal on Honiton Incline? Thanks, M. Ghandi By all means, I'm guessing the fact it's 1:35th scale and Indian makes it the ideal match. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium St Enodoc Posted April 7, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 7, 2016 Some details and a slap of paint on the castle / town wall 20160407_203000.jpg Meanwhile, more reed switches have been ordered, should arrive tomorrow for a marathon soldering session over the weekend. Jaipur pink - nice. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted April 7, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted April 7, 2016 Jaipur pink - nice. I'd seen photos of Bath Castle, in India, and thought the red/pink shade would be a good contrast to the greenery and brown of the river. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
eastwestdivide Posted April 8, 2016 Share Posted April 8, 2016 When you have finished with this layout can I please have that portal for the other (North West) portal on Honiton Incline? Thanks, M. Ghandi Ma hat, ma coat, more like! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
nomisd Posted April 8, 2016 Share Posted April 8, 2016 Ma hat, ma coat, more like! A handy Hindi/Punjabi-English phrase guide Main apane jarman kaar kho diya hai/Mainu mere da jaramana kara khatama ho gi'a hai - I have lost my German car Yahaan ke paas ek naav yaard hai/Ithe de neje ika kisati viheje hai- Is there a boat yard near here? Main apane kot mil jaega/Mainu mere kota prapata karoge - I'll get my coat Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted April 8, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted April 8, 2016 The reed switches have arrived and are so thin I don't need to raise the track. Have also bought 2 lengths of O gauge track - I had to decide between FB or BH - I went for FB, hope that's not too controversial. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium uax6 Posted April 8, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 8, 2016 As the patent shows FB rail, I think we'll let you off your choice! Andy G Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium dhjgreen Posted April 8, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 8, 2016 The reed switches have arrived and are so thin I don't need to raise the track. Have also bought 2 lengths of O gauge track - I had to decide between FB or BH - I went for FB, hope that's not too controversial. Excited now, need to keep a grip! 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted April 8, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted April 8, 2016 Excited now, need to keep a grip! Me too !! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Captain Kernow Posted April 8, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 8, 2016 I'd seen photos of Bath Castle, in India Must be a sham, this is the real one: 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted April 9, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted April 9, 2016 Circumference of track = 3,000mm (give or take a few 10s of mm) Length of rail needed between loco and carriage wheels = 75mm Therefore, number of rail sections needed = 3,000 / 75 = 40 Therefore, number of reed switches required = 40 Number of reed switches purchased this week = 30 Number of reed switches previously purchased = 10 Number of reed switches previously purchased which can't be found = 10 Radius of track = c.480mm Radius to which Peco FB Code 143 will bend - unknown as yet, but somewhat concerned about retention of curve. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted April 9, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted April 9, 2016 One done, 39 to go: 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium dhjgreen Posted April 9, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 9, 2016 One done, 39 to go: 20160409_121410.jpg Sorry but the track is the wrong colour. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted April 9, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted April 9, 2016 The track will be buried up to the bottom of the rail and the visible part then painted a suitable soft earth colour. If there is time... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium uax6 Posted April 9, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 9, 2016 (edited) Would it not be easier to mount the rail, and keep it to the required curve, by purchasing some sheets of copperclad board, (not sleepers, full board ) and then soldering the foot of the rail to it? The copperclad can then be gapped for each section, and the reeds buried inside cut outs in the board. I can foresee that the plastic base as shown above will not give a good fixinging. Also to form the curve in the rail, keep it as a full length (one rail at a time) and stroke it to get a consistent radius. The bit above seems to be just bent in the middle, which may cause problems with your loco..... Watching with interest. Andy G Edited April 9, 2016 by uax6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium dhjgreen Posted April 9, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 9, 2016 ....and stroke it to get a consistent radius.... Oooooh missus Hat, coat,...gone Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted April 9, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted April 9, 2016 Oooooh missus Hat, coat,...gone Please see post #363... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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