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Shelf Street Goods Station


Spitfire2865

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Very nice work, have you decided to do the turntables as dummy ones then? Either way you you briefly describe how you did them?

Well. After much procrastination.

First, cut a couple 50mm lengths of Flexi. And modify the sleepers to fit interlaced with one another.

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And a circle of plasticcard 48mm in diameter.

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And on the rails, file down a rail and flange gap on the non running rail, and file up on the running rail.

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More to follow.

 

 

But instead, I have been working mostly on the stonework.

Even then, its not much. Cant get the outer areas done without the backscene, and Im still trying to figure out what to do. I hate scenery...

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At this point, the left board is almost completely infilled. Just have to finish the front point and do the whole rear point.

I dont even want to start thinking about doing the double slip....

 

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And a close up of the point. Ballasted and infilled. Still working out how to best disguise the tie bar.

 

Honestly already losing steam on this project. Maybe its just mojo again as I havent really been doing much anyway.

The LNWR van is stalled as a painted body, the layout is stalled at stonework and scenery, and my desk is so cluttered with the layout taking up much of the room, I dont have much space to work. I never knew how useful a 4" square cutting mat could be.

I may take a bit of a break, fold the layout up and give my desk a complete clean and straighten it all up.

Maybe then I can think about actually doing work.

 

 

If anyone has ideas for backscene which can nicely frame the scene, actually fold up, and not require an arm and a leg, Id be more than happy to hear suggestions.

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Guest Nevadablue

Very nice work. I'm enjoying it thoroughly.

 

I have used hot glue to hold down track. The stuff will stick to almost anything and forms a very strong bond between track and baseboard. You can even use it for 'ballast' pretty easily.

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The track inlay looks fantastic; is it just scribed modelling clay?

 

For the backscene, one technique that I've seen used with good effect is to take a mass-produced paper backscene with industrial buildings, stick it to mount board, cut around the buildings and line around the edge of the board with a black marker or felt tip pen.  It should work well for a crowded goods yard scene and will only take about 3mm of depth.

 

Don't lose steam on the project while it's going so well, but having a good tidy up usually helps me to see clearer.

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The track inlay looks fantastic; is it just scribed modelling clay?

 

For the backscene, one technique that I've seen used with good effect is to take a mass-produced paper backscene with industrial buildings, stick it to mount board, cut around the buildings and line around the edge of the board with a black marker or felt tip pen.  It should work well for a crowded goods yard scene and will only take about 3mm of depth.

 

Don't lose steam on the project while it's going so well, but having a good tidy up usually helps me to see clearer.

The inlay is just Das clay smoothed out and scribed when dry. Colour comes from an acrylic wash. Absorbs very nicely.

 

I have a building design in mind, but getting other photos of it to figure out relative dimensions is difficult, if not impossible.

 

The design is a sort of peak roof shed with sliding doors on the ends with what Id assume to be warehouse/road loading docks.

 

The issue is size, shape, and getting it tall enough to frame the scene, low enough to actually fold up in the end, and look realistic.

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Here are a couple of pictures of some Great Eastern trackwork. They covered the tiebars with wooden planks.

 

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Wow. And modellers complain about segmented point blades. Those blades cant be much more than 2' long.

 

It is also nice to see a better photo of inset track without continuous check rails. I might need to make my infill a little messier.

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The backscene could be very impressionistic - my favourite urban backscene is the pink dawn on Cogirep - http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/56643-cogirep/

While it does look pretty, it doesnt really suit my layout, or baseboards even. I have 3 or 4 inches of height available before I have to think about removable sections or hinging parts.

I may build a slot behind the eventual backscene to slide a sky backdrop in when running or photographing. It could also help form the case when folded and stored.

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I had hoped to get the goods shed started, apparently the mail service thought otherwise.

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Does this packaging not look like it was run over by several lorries?

Unfortunately, the packaging wasnt the only thing damaged.

While the brick card only has a few dings, (right in the middle of them if I may add), I dont know if I should use it until the company I bought it from responds to my email.

 

A large sheet of plasticcard which I was hoping to use for quite a lot of projects....well..looks more like a rawhide bone after the dog has had a play with it.

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  • RMweb Gold

I had hoped to get the goods shed started, apparently the mail service thought otherwise.

attachicon.gifimage.jpg

Does this packaging not look like it was run over by several lorries?

Unfortunately, the packaging wasnt the only thing damaged.

While the brick card only has a few dings, (right in the middle of them if I may add), I dont know if I should use it until the company I bought it from responds to my email.

 

A large sheet of plasticcard which I was hoping to use for quite a lot of projects....well..looks more like a rawhide bone after the dog has had a play with it.

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Unfortunately, I think it would be best if you didn't use it before they respond.  You don't know what their claim procedure is and sometimes they can be a real PITA.  I've had to make a few claims over the years.  All have been resolved to my satisfaction but I have wondered if sometimes the procedures are designed to deter people.  [Just makes me more determined though.  I'm stubborn like that!]

 

It looks like your parcel got caught in some machinery and was wrenched free leaving bits behind.

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Unfortunately, I think it would be best if you didn't use it before they respond.  You don't know what their claim procedure is and sometimes they can be a real PITA.  I've had to make a few claims over the years.  All have been resolved to my satisfaction but I have wondered if sometimes the procedures are designed to deter people.  [Just makes me more determined though.  I'm stubborn like that!]

 

It looks like your parcel got caught in some machinery and was wrenched free leaving bits behind.

What bothers me most is how the postal service treats damaged mail once its found.

In the past, its been bagged or put in an additional package.

Here, They just taped it up sloppily and sent it in its way. No stamp saying damaged, no sign that anyone with care saw that it didnt get caught in another machine.

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Well Ive been working with wood.

 

Im still trying to decide on backscene and scenery, but in the meantime, I can continue inlaying the trackwork.

Starting with the sector plate, just to try and disguise it a bit.

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And the gap around the platform.

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And the points.

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And finally, the second wagon turntable after so much procrastination. Now to just find the energy to saw off the rail ends!

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Im considering building a backscene of a large wall of warehouse. The wagon turntables ending up feeding into the side of the building, which is something seen at Birmingham Central I believe.

Or maybe go for the low walls and roof edge of Curzon streets main shed.

 

Id overall like to completely hide the fact the backscene is only 2" back from the rails.

 

The backscene is definitely going to end up being the last detail added.

 

 

My layout has now become a conglomeration of Birmingham goods facilities.

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Just one photo today, but what a day it was.

 

Tracklaying is almost done.

With the completion of the second turntable, it was about time I did something about the right hand board.

Track positioning marked out with sharpie, holes drilled, and turntables screwed down. Then just the task of fitting lengths of peco to the gap.

The turntables at this point dont have any means of hands off functioing, but in the end, what will be the difference? They are just for scenery and siding length anyway.

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The reasoning why one is metal and one is wood is Im lazy and didnt want to paint more. But I can just say the old one broke and was replaced with a metal plated one.

 

The rail towards the very right is code 100 as its going to be buried, didnt want to cut more peco, and It matched the height without packing.

The tiny sliver of rail between the tables is going to be a challenge. Might fake it with some plastic instead of cutting actual rail.

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Well, even I surprise myself sometimes.

Finally have all the track laid. What a feeling to be able to put the razor saw down for good.

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In the end, I decided to leave the wagon turntables as decorative but semi functional if I ever get the desire to use them.

All I need to do is wire up the top two sidings and I can also finish up the wiring underneath, and finally get a proper terminal block set up.

Ive been toying with the idea of using a 4 core telephone cord as a connection between layout and my handheld controller. The biggest issue is the female telephone jacks, as for some reason they dont make small casings for them.

 

But aside from the modeling woes, I managed to have a rather fun play around for about an hour just aimlessly shunting 11 wagons with a small loco and a battery.

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I think 11 wagons is the limit I can fit onto this layout, although due to the length of the front and rear sidings, I could, if breaking inglenook rules, fit two more wagons into it. Would really complicate shunting.

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As I hate the colour of the cork underlay, I figured I should ballast the rest of the track before I inlay it.

Im now regretting not ballasting the plain track on the lefthand board. Maybe I can disguise it with powders. At least I thought to paint underneath it.

Though, I am glad the ballasting of the double slip went well. Still moves as stiff as always, thanks to the way I bent the control wire, but its less to confuse myself about. The direction the slide switch slides is the direction the train goes.

 

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Now to just weather it down heavily to an almost black and inlay the rest of the track.

Then I have to get started on scenery...no more excuses.

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