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Shelf Street Goods Station


Spitfire2865

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  • 3 weeks later...

Ugh.....today was a nightmare.

 

Ok. So when I designed the layout, the double slip was meant as a space saver.

 

Since I often am an idiot, I decided to operate the double slip as one would expect, push the right lever down to go to the track down right of the slip.

Except I was stupid. I used wire in tube, which does not do well with turns below 3" or so radius. So what that left me with was sticky point operation where I could wrap my head around how it worked.

 

This didnt help, neither did one of the wires rusting ??somehow?? while in the tube. So even more friction.

 

This made operation a pain on the fingers.

 

So. For the past few days, Ive been thinking how I could remedy this issue, while keeping simple wire in tube pointwork.

 

I decided after much grumbling that if I didnt fix it before infill went down, I would never like the layout.

So today, I pulled all the trackpins out of the double slip. Unsoldered all the droppers, as well as the frog polarity switches from the wiring underneath, gently lifted the slip about 1cm, removed the old wires, and made new ones, which go straight from the switch to the neighboring tiebar.

No friction is going to destroy my layout, and any possible rust shouldnt do much damage either.

post-21863-0-59402600-1458179912_thumb.jpg

Quickly resoldered everything correctly first time, and a quick test with loco, and it all works!

Horray!

 

Now I have NO reason not to start work on the scenery.

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Yes, the flux in solder is highly corrosive. Once we have completed our soldering, we are meant to clean the surfaces afterwards, or it can cause rusting.
Fear not, you are not the only one - I usually forget to clean any soldered area, or anything adjacent to where I have been soldering too
Still, at least you spotted it now, and acted on that.

All looking good too :)

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Yes, the flux in solder is highly corrosive. Once we have completed our soldering, we are meant to clean the surfaces afterwards, or it can cause rusting.

Fear not, you are not the only one - I usually forget to clean any soldered area, or anything adjacent to where I have been soldering too

Still, at least you spotted it now, and acted on that.

All looking good too :)

Except I never got solder anywhere near the controls.

And how does rust spread to the center of a 10" length of tight tubing?

 

It mustve been when I misted the ballast, but Im surprised it rusted so thoroughly.

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Well. Slow progress is progress.

post-21863-0-99383200-1458439948_thumb.jpg

Double slip infilled with wood, and switches covered with thin ply.

The eventual Das infill will come up to the edges around the wood. Maybe I can disguise it as something.

 

And Ive finally committed to it.

post-21863-0-92946900-1458439957_thumb.jpg

The platforms have been glued down solidly.

Im currently figuring out how I will do the ceiling of the first floor. The second and roof will be removable so I can actually store the whole thing.

But how tall to make the ground floor, I dont know. The hoist just clears the current roof location by about 3mm, so Im considering maybe stretching the whole thing a bit higher to clear it easier, but that runs into the issues with the folding.

 

Im going to figure something out eventually.

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  • 4 weeks later...

So much DAS.

post-21863-0-42066300-1461094228_thumb.jpg

Here you can see how Im hiding the pins coming off the tiebar. Im also putting the control wire under a box to protect it from any moisture from the clay.

 

Cant go between the front two yet as Im not sure if I still want to out a small island platform there. I might not.

Instead, building the end of one to the far right and keeping this area open for off loading onto carts.

 

Im considering maybe putting a loading dock onto the backscene, or maybe another shed.

 

Ill need maybe 3 or 4 LMS horse carts.

Anyone know of any kits?

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Ill need maybe 3 or 4 LMS horse carts.

Anyone know of any kits?

 

Not sure whether the Slaters kit was based on a LMS (or Midland) prototype?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4A23-Slaters-OO-HO-Gauge-Horse-Drawn-Goods-Delivery-Dray-Kit-5-/261686381968

 

(I know they do a 7mm version which they describe as of Midland origin)

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Not sure whether the Slaters kit was based on a LMS (or Midland) prototype?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4A23-Slaters-OO-HO-Gauge-Horse-Drawn-Goods-Delivery-Dray-Kit-5-/261686381968

 

(I know they do a 7mm version which they describe as of Midland origin)

Ive been looking online for kits.

I saw that slaters did one, but its a flat dray rather than a sided or covered variety

I was hoping for ones of these designs.

post-21863-0-06844900-1461103692.jpg

I havent even been able to find many decent photos.

post-21863-0-75011000-1461103909.jpg

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Langley Miniature Models make a kit in white metal that's almost identical to the vehicles in your first photograph.

 

Fantastic work on the track infill; a couple of horse carts will really set the scene.

Ive seen Langleys kit, though unfortunately, their kit is an open sided 3 horse dray, while I was looking for the slightly smaller one horse ones seen in the photos.

If I just had general dimensions, I could probably scratchbuild them, sans wheels.

 

And thanks. Now that the right side board is almost ready for scenery, Im getting DAS infil done in large chunks.

 

 

Ill probably end up getting maybe a couple slaters kits, maybe one of langleys, and try to scratchbuild the rest. The hardest part is finding someone who sells everything I need.

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I'm sure you could scratch build a dray Mr Spitfire - looking at your work here, I'm sure you'll do a good job of it too
It's looking great so far - really want to see this one finished :)

Don't worry about it being slow progress - slow is better than none
I have virtually no modelling time these days - hence my own pace would be overtaken by a snail
..... on one of his slow days! ;)

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I'm sure you could scratch build a dray Mr Spitfire - looking at your work here, I'm sure you'll do a good job of it too

It's looking great so far - really want to see this one finished :)

Don't worry about it being slow progress - slow is better than none

I have virtually no modelling time these days - hence my own pace would be overtaken by a snail

..... on one of his slow days! ;)

I have no doubt I could scratchbuild the main body of it, but I have no idea how they were constructed. Ive been looking for photos, drawings, or descriptions of construction, but I cant find anything, and Id like to avoid building it to "look near enough".

Do you know anything about drays?

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More clay.

post-21863-0-33244500-1461179748_thumb.jpg

I filled the entire front. Im NOT looking forward to scribing that!

Im still deciding on backscene. I rather like the idea of a long loading dock on the side of a building, with maybe a roof overhang similar to Birmingham, but how do I deal with the turntables.

Maybe have the perpendicular track extend to the backscene, disappearing inside the building.

 

But would it look right...

 

post-21863-0-68272200-1461179759_thumb.jpg

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I think Ive figured out what I am going to do for the right side.

A small loading dock attached to a medium shed in the side of my fictional goods facility.

A couple wagon turntables feed further into the building, coming to platforms for goods exchange to road vehicles. In front of the building is a mostly empty cobbled area for horses and drays to travel as they head deeper into the facilitys goods yard. Some drays offloading wagons directly in the middle of the yard, while wagons wait to be shunted into the facility.

post-21863-0-92431500-1461268795_thumb.jpg

 

Then on the left, I still have the other goods warehouse, but along the back is a high wall separating the yard from the public road.

The backscene probably will just be a slide in blue backdrop or maybe some painted buildings along the other side of the street.

 

 

Now to just decide how big I want this building, and how I will deal with the folding bit.

 

This should ultimately give me a great backdrop for photographing future models, and should still function as an inglenook.

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Well Ive made a start, if I can call it one.

I think Im going to build the wall as a solid part of the baseboard, so that it can fold over with clearance for the wall on the opposite side, but the center bit which covers the hinge will be removable.

post-21863-0-04705800-1461286420_thumb.jpg

Im trying to decide if I want to maybe have the awning above the platform actually an awning, or part of the roof structure entirely.

As the wall sort of goes in then back out, could a loading dock just be cut into the building?

Or maybe have the bit that covers the hinge as maybe an extension of the original building. Maybe...

Its still being decided.

The hardest thing to work around is the limited space behind the backscene, as well as the need to have any roof design removable

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This is coming on very nicely.

 

Looking forward to how this develops.

 

What will be the motive power?

 

Rob.

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This is coming on very nicely.

Looking forward to how this develops.

What will be the motive power?

Rob.

Thanks!

As its based on the Birmingham based LMS goods facilities, mostly a Jinty or Pug. But the sector plate can fit any 0-6-0 so really any tank loco of my choosing. Im thinking maybe an LNWR special or Midland 1F as a next kit.

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Well, I attached the first floor backdrop.

The left hand end is still being decided upon. I want it to cover the hinge, but Im trying to figure out how I will do the roof.

post-21863-0-22840200-1461449404_thumb.jpg

 

The wall took a lot of planning to avoid wasting what little brick card I have.

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The trackwork and paving look top-draw so far, you must have the patience of a saint to scribe all that DAS clay.

Thanks!

Though its not patience as much as insanity.

It also helps to be completely distracted from the task. Audiobooks help greatly.

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  • 2 weeks later...

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