Shelf Street Goods Station

[Spitfire2865]

Well. It turns out using .8mm wire in .9mm tubing over about 10" curved into 180 gives me a mm of wiggle, therefore avoiding needing to bend up any loops or slack catching arrangements.

Now that the point control was in place, I took the moment to finally nail down the track.

You will see many nails driven into the track. Why not glue? Because Peco are sadists and make their plastic track unglueable. Nothing I have will attack Peco sleepers. Not liquid or gel plastic cement, not superglue, not white glue, and I dont have anything else on me.

Instead of wasting another week, and more money, I just decided to nail everything down in place. It doesnt look good now, but everythings getting inset anyway, so I will never see those horrible sleepers with their unglueable plastic.

I just wanted to be sure I wont knock one of the points and the tiebar wire pop out of place. Not fun lining up 4 wires under a solid track piece.

 

 

A bit of change to the plan. Due to my inability to source the one manufactured wagon turntable in OO, I will have to scratchbuild them. Thus, making 2 is a lot easier than making 3. And now I can continue the island platform a little bit offscene.

Or maybe I should continue the track across the TT's but just have a diamond crossing the lower track instead of a turntable. This is afterall a section of a larger scene, so theoretically, the track could continue to a TT on another road.

 

 

And finally, the main issue with this layout. This joint.

Hopefully the saw I use will give enough space to isolate the tracks. If not, I can always file back the rails a tad.

Plenty of nails here as I want to ensure this stays stuck down. These pins are driven straight into the wood of the frame.

 

Well. Sawing next, then I can fold the layout and get my desk back to work on the turntables.

[Spitfire2865]

My fingers and wrist ache...

And Im not even through...

 

No more folding layouts...ever.

[Mark Forrest]

Nice job, keep going! One thing to watch - hope the copperclad is only single sided otherwise the pins might create a short.

 

Alternative method would be to use brass screws and solder to the heads, meaning you only have the rails to saw through.

[marc smith]

I know you've said, "No more folding layouts, ever" - but it's a great way to create an easily stored, easily set-up layout
And that looks a good job on the join there. As Mark Forrest says above - another method is to use brass screws to solder the rails to, at the join
I've used both methods in the past. They're both pretty sturdy methods.

Nice progress - keep up the good work

[Spitfire2865]

Nice job, keep going! One thing to watch - hope the copperclad is only single sided otherwise the pins might create a short.

Alternative method would be to use brass screws and solder to the heads, meaning you only have the rails to saw through.

Yes they are single sided. Also the only way I can get glue to stick to the track. What do you people use to glue Peco down?

Ive seen the screw method before, unfortunately I dont have any extra small brass screws.

 

  

I know you've said, "No more folding layouts, ever" - but it's a great way to create an easily stored, easily set-up layout

And that looks a good job on the join there. As Mark Forrest says above - another method is to use brass screws to solder the rails to, at the join

I've used both methods in the past. They're both pretty sturdy methods.

Nice progress - keep up the good work

I just hate the sawing through. Worse yet, all I can get between the boards is a .2mm razor saw blade with no handle. Not the easiest thing to wield and actually put force behind.

[BG John]

What do you people use to glue Peco down?

PVA works for me. When stuck to cork it comes up again too, with a fair bit of careful work, but only if you want it to!

[Spitfire2865]

PVA works for me. When stuck to cork it comes up again too, with a fair bit of careful work, but only if you want it to!

Ive found none of my glues attack Peco sleepers. Though at this point, the keeping it down isnt the issue. I could always fill in between with something like PVA and use it like a ballast.

[peter220950]

   I just hate the sawing through. Worse yet, all I can get between the boards is a .2mm razor saw blade with no handle. Not the easiest thing to wield and actually put force behind.

 

 

I have some advantage working in 7mm, in that the tolerances are probably a little less, but I don't go down your route of cutting after the copperclad is laid, I set two pieces, one either side of the joint then solder the rail down and just cut the rail?

 

 

If you don't think it will align as well you could always cut it first and tack a temporary brace on to keep it in the right plane, this could then be unsoldered after the glue was dry and the rail soldered to it.

 

Either way keep up the good work, it's easy to get disheartened but something like this and lose sight of the overall project, that's looking pretty good.

 

Peter

 

P.S. with regards to fixing the track  -  I'm now using the PVA like Gorilla Glue to good effect, though it's only to hold it in place short term, as the ballasting usually gives a good grip to keep it all in place. I do usually pin the sections either side of board joints and pin the copperclad.

[marc smith]

..... I just hate the sawing through. Worse yet, all I can get between the boards is a .2mm razor saw blade with no handle. Not the easiest thing to wield and actually put force behind.

 

For something like this, I would use a dremmel type drill (other brands are available lol)

and carborundum cutting discs. These give you a nice, narrow, neat cut (the slimmer the cutting disc the better)

Though the slimmest cutting discs are most delicate, of course - you break a few - but buy a box....

A bit of finishing off, with a very fine file afterwards = job done

 

You should be able to get the cutting discs from one of the model tools suppliers

[Spitfire2865]

I have some advantage working in 7mm, in that the tolerances are probably a little less, but I don't go down your route of cutting after the copperclad is laid, I set two pieces, one either side of the joint then solder the rail down and just cut the rail?

 

DSCF2128.JPG

 

If you don't think it will align as well you could always cut it first and tack a temporary brace on to keep it in the right plane, this could then be unsoldered after the glue was dry and the rail soldered to it.

 

Either way keep up the good work, it's easy to get disheartened but something like this and lose sight of the overall project, that's looking pretty good.

 

Peter

 

P.S. with regards to fixing the track  -  I'm now using the PVA like Gorilla Glue to good effect, though it's only to hold it in place short term, as the ballasting usually gives a good grip to keep it all in place. I do usually pin the sections either side of board joints and pin the copperclad.

Nice idea. Only I didnt have any copperclad strips, only rectangles of thin stuff I bought a while back. And due to the rather difficult arrangement of points, I opted to have overlap and just cut it all after.

More work, but less measuring.

Im not disheartened, only a little sore from holding a razor saw at an uncomfortable angle.

 

 

 

  

For something like this, I would use a dremmel type drill (other brands are available lol)

and carborundum cutting discs. These give you a nice, narrow, neat cut (the slimmer the cutting disc the better)

Though the slimmest cutting discs are most delicate, of course - you break a few - but buy a box....

A bit of finishing off, with a very fine file afterwards = job done

You should be able to get the cutting discs from one of the model tools suppliers

I considered using a dremel, but the issue isnt the tool, but how to get it into where its needed. A little hard to cut it straight down in the middle of a board.

[Spitfire2865]

After much swearing and sore fingers, the joint is cut.

Then I had the fun task of soldering dropper wires to the frogs as I trimmed off the thin wire Peco adds at the end of the sleeper they poke out of. Really wish I kept at least one of them on the double slip as the frog is right over the frame. I ended up with a dropper which goes through a slot filed into the bottom of the frame. Rather hard to explain.

Now that the boards are separate again, I can get to work on the wiring and the turntables.

I think Ill build the two turntables as one assembly and then fit track between them and the points.

[Spitfire2865]

Well no progress on the turntables. Im now really regretting my decision to go for it, but Ill soldier on.

But I have made progress.

Of what I have laid already, it all has been wired up and tested on battery power. Aside from a few spots of dirty track, even the Pug managed to effortlessly cross the board.

My Jinty unfortunately is in need or repair as the Mashima motor seems to have died in the past months of storage.

Though oddly enough, I could shunt the inglenook with my Cauliflower. It even fits in the kickback for the goods shed, though it will not fit on the sector plate, if only I made it an inch longer...

 

Now my wiring may look crude, and it mostly is. The bus wires run through the hinges, and it proved to be effective even on battery power.

On the board with the sector plate, I opted to not drill another awkward hole by hand, but instead use the track above as a continuation of the Bus. If it proves to be trouble, I can always go under the board with a drill and join the two wires.

 

Now to continue the Turntables.

[georgeT]

   Morning Trevor, Very interesting reading about the problems and how you get around them, great stuff...

[Nile]

I've just found this, good to see you will have somewhere to put all that stock you've been building (well some of it).

I have a question for you Trevor, how are you going to operate the sector plate when the layout is finished and it's hidden by a building?

[Spitfire2865]

I've just found this, good to see you will have somewhere to put all that stock you've been building (well some of it).

I have a question for you Trevor, how are you going to operate the sector plate when the layout is finished and it's hidden by a building?

Im still working on that, luckily, I have plenty of time to work it out.

It has 27mm of swing, so I need to work out a way to move it without changing the outside size as its at a maximum.

[dhjgreen]

Nice idea. Only I didnt have any copperclad strips, only rectangles of thin stuff I bought a while back. And due to the rather difficult arrangement of points, I opted to have overlap and just cut it all after.

More work, but less measuring.

Im not disheartened, only a little sore from holding a razor saw at an uncomfortable angle.

 

I considered using a dremel, but the issue isnt the tool, but how to get it into where its needed. A little hard to cut it straight down in the middle of a board.

If you use a "Speedclic" in your dremel (quite expensive though), they have a very thin diamond coated metal disc (does not break) that is quite a bit bigger in diameter than the regular discs. You can then get a much shallower angle for the cut. Another use for this disc is to convert N gauge code 55 turnouts into switched frog by cutting through the switch rails.

[Spitfire2865]

Well. After Neil mentioned it, I took the effort to make a control wire for the sector plate.

It moves easily enough, though the hard part was keeping it from kicking up. Sorted now, and it works fine.

 

Turntables on the other hand, arent going particularly well.

Im having a hard time centering the two tracks in the center as well as 90* from eachother. Also, without a compass, its rather hard to cut a circle, and even with a bodged representation of one, I somehow still have a wonky circle. How? How does a fixed length change when rotated 360?

Im honestly debating making them false until I can make it properly.

[Spitfire2865]

A little bit of work.

Making a Ratio hoist kit.

Poor pics but lighting is poor.

 

And now I have one wagon TT. One more to go.

[Twright]

Very nice work, have you decided to do the turntables as dummy ones then? Either way you you briefly describe how you did them?

[Spitfire2865]

Very nice work, have you decided to do the turntables as dummy ones then? Either way you you briefly describe how you did them?

They will be functional dummy TTs. They will spin, but only one road is usable. The other is false as I cant cut the flange gap without breaking the rail.

I still have to make a second, so I can try to take detailed photos of the construction.

[Twright]

Ah okay, thanks

[Spitfire2865]

Well. Little, but significant progress.

Ive started infilling the track. I also figured out an easy way to do the 4' by adding plastic strip as "check rails". Then just add Das and smooth.

When thats dry, I have to think about scribing it.

 

And work on the Warehouse has started.

I began with 3mm ply cut to the size of the platform, then card cut to height and to build a frame inside, plasticcard on top, and finally wood strip glued down and stained. Still needs a bit more distressing, but should work well.

The walls currently are mockups for what Ill be using Slaters brick sheets for.

The hardest part will be that corner, as it isnt a straight 90*, but a bit of a cut out to clear the track leading to the sector plate.

Honestly wont be too visible when finished, and the back wall should look nice with 3 large windows in it to let light in.

The second floor, which will be a removable section, will have the storeroom.

I may even be able to wire up some lights to illuminate the interior.

 

And just a quick shot to demonstrate the feel Im going for.

[Twright]

Fantastic work as usual, you're progressing quite quickly.

[Mikkel]

Yes, that was quick. That deck with the wood strip looks  very good.

 

Can I ask what your supplier for the wood strip is? It can be rather expensive sometimes and I'm looking for a good source.

[Spitfire2865]

Yes, that was quick. That deck with the wood strip looks  very good.

 

Can I ask what your supplier for the wood strip is? It can be rather expensive sometimes and I'm looking for a good source.

Thanks.

 

I actually buy it from Hobby Lobby. They sell packs of bass and balsa. The one I use the most of is 1/16" x 1/8".

$2 USD for a pack of 5 2' lengths.