RMweb Gold 57xx Posted June 11, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 11, 2016 And now in BR Green. It's Halfords Ford Laurel Green diluted 1:1 with cellulose and applied with the airbrush. I mixed 20 ml paint with 20 ml cellulose and still had enough left to fill an empty Tamiya paint jar. How do you go about decanting the Halfords spray? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAD Posted June 12, 2016 Author Share Posted June 12, 2016 How do you go about decanting the Halfords spray?Hi 57XX,In this case I did not use a spray can but had Halfords make it up in the mixing station. They can do this for pretty much any auto colour if you know the manufacturers paint code or name. They can do 100 ml or 500 ml. I managed to sweet talk the lady to do me 300 ml but that is way too much so I hope it keeps. I only used 20 ml paint and 20 ml cellulose thinners for the prairie so 100 ml would possibly be enough for 4 tender engines??? In the past I have decanted by inverting the can and propping it against an outside wall with a brick on the bottom to depress the valve. Leave it until all the gas is expired and then cut off the bottom of the can with an old can opener. The type that has two handles that nips the can and then you turn the screw to cut around the can. Best to have another pair of hands hold the tin and take care when you first pierce the tin as there will still be some gas present. After that just pour it into another container. You won't need to dilute it as is will already be thinned for spraying. Can't remember the costs involved but the 300 ml was about £15 and 500 was about £20. I can't remember what 100 ml cost as I rather foolishly assumed that would not be enough. The other way to decant is to tape a straw over the hole in the valve and spray what you need into another container covered with cling film with a hole for the straw. Hope that helps A bit more progress on the prairie. I chemically blackened all the wheels refitted and the sprayed some satin black/Matt brown mix to start the weathering. There will be more to follow. Before I primed the frames I added the cover over the large square hole between the middle and rear drivers to finally complete the detailing. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAD Posted June 12, 2016 Author Share Posted June 12, 2016 Finally worked out how to post a video. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Grumpy Posted June 12, 2016 Share Posted June 12, 2016 Hi Peter, Great modelling, and truly inspiring! I love something to aim for! In relation to the Halfords celly, would you know what is their smallest quantity they sell? My 14xx will be run down and black, but my next loco may be green and I like celly paint, but I have only used it from a rattle can and there isn't a great deal of control! Regards, Richard Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAD Posted June 12, 2016 Author Share Posted June 12, 2016 Hi Richard, Thanks for the kind words. You're doing a great job on the 14xx. I'd love to build an MOK kit but they are a bit beyond what I'm prepared to pay. I think the minimum mix was 100 ml but I can't remember the price. Cheers, Peter Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Grumpy Posted June 12, 2016 Share Posted June 12, 2016 I think the MOK 1400 kit is great for the less experienced and a great confidence builder. I would have been lost trying to build a more complex kit, so for me the additional cost added up :-) I have a few more kits sitting on the shelf but once they are up and running, I fancy a 4500 class..... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted June 13, 2016 Share Posted June 13, 2016 Hi 57XX, In this case I did not use a spray can but had Halfords make it up in the mixing station. They can do this for pretty much any auto colour if you know the manufacturers paint code or name. They can do 100 ml or 500 ml. I managed to sweet talk the lady to do me 300 ml but that is way too much so I hope it keeps. I only used 20 ml paint and 20 ml cellulose thinners for the prairie so 100 ml would possibly be enough for 4 tender engines??? In the past I have decanted by inverting the can and propping it against an outside wall with a brick on the bottom to depress the valve. Leave it until all the gas is expired and then cut off the bottom of the can with an old can opener. The type that has two handles that nips the can and then you turn the screw to cut around the can. Best to have another pair of hands hold the tin and take care when you first pierce the tin as there will still be some gas present. After that just pour it into another container. You won't need to dilute it as is will already be thinned for spraying. Can't remember the costs involved but the 300 ml was about £15 and 500 was about £20. I can't remember what 100 ml cost as I rather foolishly assumed that would not be enough. The other way to decant is to tape a straw over the hole in the valve and spray what you need into another container covered with cling film with a hole for the straw. Hope that helps A bit more progress on the prairie. I chemically blackened all the wheels refitted and the sprayed some satin black/Matt brown mix to start the weathering. There will be more to follow. Before I primed the frames I added the cover over the large square hole between the middle and rear drivers to finally complete the detailing. 20160610_165950-1.jpg [attachment=721115:2016-06-10 18.24.26.jpg 20160610_170135-1.jpg I really like those driving wheels. They really bring out that huge 15/30-inch crank throw. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAD Posted June 13, 2016 Author Share Posted June 13, 2016 Some more progress. Got the backplate and buffer beams painted and added the lining on the cylinders. Also painted the red and steel on the reversing lever and got the primer on the Derby Lightweight and a Dogfish for my brother. I will post some pics of those and the three pugs later as they progress. Cheers, Peter Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAD Posted June 15, 2016 Author Share Posted June 15, 2016 Been pressing on applying the lining from Fox. It mentions in the instructions that due to a change in the chemistry of the transfers, a drop of washing up liquid should be added to the water for soaking. It sounds to me that due to environmental issues they have had to modify the formulation, and I have to say that they do not seem to be as robust as they used to be. Getting them off the backing paper is real pain and they are constantly breaking up. Never had that problem before. Still I have managed to get the cylinders, boiler bands and one side completed. As with the lining on the Duke, I marked out the extremities of the lining with masking tape, cut up the panels, applied the corners first and then filled in the straights. The lining as supplied only suits those locos as lined out at Newton Abbot (according to Prairie Papers), as it skirts around the weather screens and not behind them as required for 4134. However, it's no problem as you cannot apply the panels in one piece anyway. Here's the sequence of events. 4134 was one of the first to receive lining by BR and was given the large Lion on Wheel totem. I had some HMRS press-fix emblems in stock so applied one. Straight away it did not look right. It's not central between the upper and lower lining so I thought I'd made an error. However, the bottom right hand corner next to the "S" in Railways should be next to the sixth rivet up from the bottom which it is. Looking at the emblem it just looked too big. According to the Fox website, their large totems for 7mm are 15mm wide by 16mm high. The HMRS ones are 17 X 18mm! I don't know which is correct but my money is on Fox. Anyway I took some pictures before I removed it, by heating with the hairdryer to soften the adhesive, then scraping off with a finger nail. The remaining adhesive came by wiping with White Spirit. And on the chassis. And from the top. And after removal. Still got the other side to line but have ordered a set of totems from Fox. Cheers, Peter Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fay Posted June 15, 2016 Share Posted June 15, 2016 Looks fantastic Peter Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
daifly Posted June 15, 2016 Share Posted June 15, 2016 The totem fits neatly between the two columns of rivets on this one. Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAD Posted June 15, 2016 Author Share Posted June 15, 2016 The totem fits neatly between the two columns of rivets on this one. Dave Hi Dave, Yes, that's the problem. The HRMS ones don't on the model so appear to be too wide (and too tall). Cheers, Peter 4141 at unknown loc.jpg Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
daifly Posted June 15, 2016 Share Posted June 15, 2016 Hi Dave, Yes, that's the problem. The HRMS ones don't on the model so appear to be too wide (and too tall). Cheers, Peter My thoughts exactly. Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAD Posted June 17, 2016 Author Share Posted June 17, 2016 I received the number plates from Guilplates and transfers from Fox yesterday, so was able to get one side completed. Here's the plates. These are only the second set of GWR plates I have handled since my 4 mm days and they don't half look big in this scale. I painted the outer border green before applying, but passed on adding the orange line around the numbers. The likes of Ian Rathbone can do that with a spring bow pen, but I was not willing to risk a lot of time and effort on something that will hardly been seen after weathering. I know that with a good drawing pen and spring bow pen, excellent results can be achieved in lining out models. I have lots of pens in my collection but simply don't construct enough models in lined liveries to build up my expertise, so for me transfers will always be the better option. Here's the Fox BR totems compared to HMRS. Much better in terms of size and they also have the "British Railways" panel with a black background. I have used the HMRS before but never noticed the panel was clear so is green when applied to lined out locos. I took the opportunity to correct an error with the bunker lining as I realised the bottom line was sloping downwards from left to right. I simply scraped off the offending corner and bottom line with a sharpened Costa coffee stirrer, applied masking tape and replaced. Now it looks right, but I will be glad when I get some lacquer on to dull down the gloss. Cheers, Peter Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted June 17, 2016 Share Posted June 17, 2016 Looks lovely. The lighting and shadowing is playing tricks on my eyes again, and making the smokebox door look more bulbous than it actually is. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 57xx Posted June 17, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 17, 2016 Just when you think it can't get much better.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAD Posted June 18, 2016 Author Share Posted June 18, 2016 Looks lovely. The lighting and shadowing is playing tricks on my eyes again, and making the smokebox door look more bulbous than it actually is. Thanks Horse. The smokebox door is not perfect but then it's a Scorpio castings not a Finney one. I rubbed it down at the back as much as I could before fitting,and it looks OK in the flesh. Cheers, Peter Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAD Posted June 18, 2016 Author Share Posted June 18, 2016 I have finally got all the lining completed and added the route discs and power class letter to complete the work with the water slide transfers. Compared to the lining, the disc, power class letter and BR Totems were a joy to apply. In the end, having a dedicated lining set for the prairie was no advantage as I ended up cutting the corners off each panel with only very short lengths of straight to avoid the damn things cracking. I would have done just as well with a set of corners and straights. Still in the end I am happy with the results which are far better than I could have hoped to achieve painting them by hand with a drawing pen and spring bow pen. Here's the left hand side completed and some shots from other angles. Apologies for the last one which looks like I got a bit of camera shake. I've also fixed the smokebox number and shed plates. I'm getting there. Cheers, Peter Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Dan Randall Posted June 18, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 18, 2016 A marvellous job Peter - well done! Regards Dan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted June 19, 2016 Share Posted June 19, 2016 You have done a great job there Peter, there are a few of us that can do a half decent job in actually building a loco but to line it as well, brilliant. Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Fitness Posted June 19, 2016 Share Posted June 19, 2016 Thanks for a great build PAD This wonderful thread will be used as instructions when I get round to building mine! Jon F Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAD Posted June 20, 2016 Author Share Posted June 20, 2016 Thanks for a great build PAD This wonderful thread will be used as instructions when I get round to building mine! Jon F Hello Jon, Thanks to you and the other guys for the kind words. I'm glad you've enjoyed the thread and will find it useful when you get around to building your own kit. When I started I was of the opinion that I would not need to replace many of the castings, but as things progressed it was clear that significant improvements in appearance would be had by doing so. I think the extra £50 or so spent on castings from Hobbyhorse, Warren Shephard, Springside and PRC have made a big difference and would strongly recommend you do the same to get the best out of the kit. You mind find this drawing from the Finney instructions downloaded from the Brassmasters website useful. I highlighted the various additions required to improve the kit as I found them during the build, from my own prototype photos of the pair at Didcot and from Prairie Papers. There is also an excellent GWR drawing dated 1933 in the GWR Journal No 5 from 1993, which is scaled to 7 mm by Tony Reynalds. Good luck with your build when you start it and if you need any further info or photos (I've got about 400 of the Didcot pair) let me know and I will send them to you. Hopefully now that all the transfers are on I can lacquer it this week and kill the gloss. Cheers, Peter Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Fitness Posted June 20, 2016 Share Posted June 20, 2016 Thanks Peter, this will all be very helpful when the time comes. I must admit I do have another loco to build first (when I can get some time away from the signals!) which will be a Mercian Fowler Dock tank but all your hard work and info on the large prairie will be much appreciated. I may well take up your kind offer of the pictures! Jon F Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
M51625 Posted June 21, 2016 Share Posted June 21, 2016 Peter, Took this photo at the weekend, 5199 at the Llangollen railway, granted its a preserved loco so probably painted the wrong shade of black etc etc However, the crest seems to match what you have done.. Good effort by the way. Gareth Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAD Posted June 21, 2016 Author Share Posted June 21, 2016 Peter, Took this photo at the weekend, 5199 at the Llangollen railway, granted its a preserved loco so probably painted the wrong shade of black etc etc However, the crest seems to match what you have done.. Good effort by the way. Gareth Many thanks Gareth. All the in service photos from BR days suggest that the totem spanned the two lines of rivets. Your photo shows the totem to be too narrow. However it looks to be the right height (checking it against where the top and bottom line up with the rivets). Maybe they got it from HMRS whose 7 mm one is too large. Anyway here's my efforts over the last couple of evenings. Added some dials to the backplate (BR). Didn't have any GWR ones but who can see in the cab. And fitted in the cab along with the reversing lever, brake standard and glazing. Also done the varnishing and some weathering and got it all back together again. Here's a little tool I made to tighten the GWR crankpin nuts and the reversed Slaters one on the front wheel. A couple of suitable diameter tubes soldered together, squashed to match the flats on the nuts and with a slot cut for the cotter pins. Works a treat. And a couple of extra details. The arm rests for the driver and fireman. I've seen this done with wood veneer but it doesn't look as good as you would expect because you still have 12 inch to the foot grain in the wood! That's pretty much it apart from maybe some dry brushing on the chassis and a bit of touching up. I'll try to get some daylight pictures on the layout when I can. Cheers, Peter Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.