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Jazz 7mm Workbench


jazz
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Hi all.  Just completed a very old Gateneal Pannier tank kit. (Found on eBay for a great price with nice replacement castings and Mashima motor plus wheels)

 

It still required a fair bit of additional scratch building as the kit is very basic in original form.  

 

I am currently waiting for the number plates from Guilplates and then adding the transfers.

 

Now I'm starting an interesting kit, a Lochgorm Kits 4-6-0 Jones goods. Another first on the WB

 

attachicon.gifgateneal 2 - 1.jpg

 

attachicon.gifgateneal new 1 - 1.jpg

I'll bet you are the only person to complete a Gateneal pannier this decade.  A sow's ear job saved by skill and fresh castings.  Rather you than me so well done.

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I'll bet you are the only person to complete a Gateneal pannier this decade.  A sow's ear job saved by skill and fresh castings.  Rather you than me so well done.

 

It still was a sows ear despite the replacement castings.

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Hi. Made a start on the Jones Goods yesterday. I decided not to use the compensation as in the kit. I prefer my usual sprung centre axle.

 

The coal plate on the tender is a 2.75mm short at the front end, so I will make a short in fill from scrap off the etches.

 

Here it is so far.

 

post-150-0-00163900-1512853607_thumb.jpg

 

post-150-0-28153600-1512853644_thumb.jpg

 

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Hi. Made a start on the Jones Goods yesterday. I decided not to use the compensation as in the kit. I prefer my usual sprung centre axle.

 

The coal plate on the tender is a 2.75mm short at the front end, so I will make a short in fill from scrap off the etches.

 

Here it is so far.

 

attachicon.gifjones goods 2 - 1.jpg

 

attachicon.gifjones goods 1 - 1.jpg

 

Hi Jazz,  I'm thinking of compensating the Connoisseur Jinty I'm building, and your technique is one I'm considering using.  But there's one thing that confuses me.

 

If the bearing is free to float a mm or so up and down, what holds it in place horizontally in the frame?  Is it just the hole that the spring wire sits in is close enough the the frame that the wire acts as a thrust bearing which holds the bearing tight against the frame, or is there something else that holds it?

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Hi Mike,

 

Hopefully I can answer that question in Ken's absence, I have copied Ken's technique on most of my locos and it has always worked a treat. I solder the spring wire to the side of the frame itself, that way the wire is automatically aligned to hold the bearing in place, I drill a hole into the bearing side but not right through to the axle. Also you can adjust the length of wire to increase or decrease the downward pressure, works great.

 

I think I have a photo somewhere showing my version I will try and dig it out.

 

Martyn.

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Hi Mike,

 

This is from a 42xx I built some years ago, with this version I have drilled through the spacer and soldered the spring wire to the other side. Without trying to confuse matters I also built in a vertical rod to adjust the ride height. Hope this helps,

 

post-7101-0-00491300-1513109563.jpg

 

Martyn.

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Hi Jazz,  I'm thinking of compensating the Connoisseur Jinty I'm building, and your technique is one I'm considering using.  But there's one thing that confuses me.

If the bearing is free to float a mm or so up and down, what holds it in place horizontally in the frame?  Is it just the hole that the spring wire sits in is close enough the the frame that the wire acts as a thrust bearing which holds the bearing tight against the frame, or is there something else that holds it?

Mike,

 

The top-hat brim stops the bearing falling into the frames, and the wheels stop it falling out! The slots in the frames should be tight enough to prevent the bearings moving fore-and-aft.

 

As subsequent posts show, there are ways of preventing the bearings turning in the frames.

 

Personally, I prefer proper hormblocks, but it’s clear from the many users, that Ken’s approach works just fine.

 

Best

Simon

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Hi Mike. Apologies for not replying, I have been away since Monday and just back this evening.  I see that others have very kindly in my absence and have done an excellent job.

 

My thanks to all, Ken.

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Hi. Back on the WB yesterday and got the tender ready for cleaning up and polishing off all the unwanted solder. I have the buffers and brake standard missing and awaiting the arrival of them.

 

Now to start the loco.

 

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post-150-0-87717300-1513328323_thumb.jpg

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Hi That's the chassis almost done.  The centre drivers did not allow my usual springing so I sprung it for 1mm upwards and the lead axle 1mm downwards. That works well.. The rest went together alright.

 

post-150-0-85320600-1513504612_thumb.jpg

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Hi. The Gateneal pannier is having it's first turn of duty on the Trenruth branch. Driver Morgan and fireman Huw in the cab.

 

Managed to catch her just prior to running round the train.

 

Apologies for the blurred photo. The light was quite poor.

 

post-150-0-37693500-1513609820_thumb.jpg

 

post-150-0-83458900-1513609837_thumb.jpg

 

 

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Hi. Today the footplate assembly was started.  Not what you would call a doddle to assemble, the cab being a pain to get the bends correct. The splashers lacking any etched guides were very tricky to hold in place to solder them.  I've never notice a fold down vacuum pipe before, very novel.

 

Finally got it all done though.

 

post-150-0-28791800-1513964371_thumb.jpg

Edited by jazz
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 I've never notice a fold down vacuum pipe before, very novel.

 

Ken

 

It folds to allow a medium or large snowplough to be fitted.

 

Sandy

 

 

Hi Sandy. Thanks for the explanation, makes sense now, considering it's a highland loco :)

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Hi Sandy. What a cracking view. We have been there many times, enjoyed the river trips and the French restaurant in the square. Percy Throwers house in what is now a public park. Wonderful.

 

Ken

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Hi everyone.  Well that's another Christmas over and now looking forward to another year.  So a very happy modelling year to you all.

 

Here is the Jones goods ready for the off to it's owner.  Not an easy kit to sort out out but now looks the part I think.

 

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post-150-0-54741000-1514458371_thumb.jpg

post-150-0-28084200-1514458344_thumb.jpg

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi Jazz,  I'm thinking of compensating the Connoisseur Jinty I'm building, and your technique is one I'm considering using.  But there's one thing that confuses me.

 

If the bearing is free to float a mm or so up and down, what holds it in place horizontally in the frame?  Is it just the hole that the spring wire sits in is close enough the the frame that the wire acts as a thrust bearing which holds the bearing tight against the frame, or is there something else that holds it?

 

Hi Jazz,

 

One more question about your compensation method.  What diameter wire do you use?  I've gone back through the thread and can't find any mention as to the size.  I have some .015" diameter piano wire, but that seems way too flimsy.

 

Thanx!

 

Mike

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Hi Guys. Apologies for not responding to your queries regarding the piano wire, We have been enjoying some sun and relax time in Florida.

 

Regarding the size of wire, I use 25 SWG. I see EKR & David has helped you out though.

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