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Jazz 7mm Workbench


jazz
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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Guys. I've been tied up this week building my Scorpio 14xx class.  I"m always pleased to build a Scorpio kit even though the castings can be a bit iffy at times. This one was not bad at all.  There was a bit of chopping away metal to get the boiler to fit between the tanks, in fairness it did advise this in the instruction sheets. The dummy valve gear was not able to be fitted to the driving axle because of the gear box, so they have to be cut short. It does not matter anyway because it's inside the tanks.

 

The tool brackets for the bunker rear were a bit pathetic so I made my own. Other than that, a nice kit to build.

 

Just waiting to fit the Dinghams and she's ready for the layout.

 

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Edited by jazz
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Hi. Today is the start of a very interesting model that will slow me down, guaranteed.  The LMS 2-6-0  0-6-2 Beyer Garratt.  It's old JM kit. A long time since I built one of his and the first time for this model.

 

We will see how I get on.

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Hi.  Spent this afternoon assembling the main parts of the chassis. Not being a fan of compensation beams I have elected to use my usual method of spring the centre axle.

 

Plunger pickups will be used and two ABC 2 stage gearboxes coupled to Cannon EN22's.  This should pull your socks off I think.

 

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Hi again.  Spent quite a while removing all the valve gear parts from the frets, cleaning them up and laminating them all.  Then trying to figure out how the lubricating are fits to the expansion link.  Anyway eventually figured that out and started to assemble as much as possible prior to stripping down for priming. (That's quite a while off as yet.) I have the second chassis to do the same operation probably tomorrows job.

 

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Hi, I was wondering have you built any kits made by Acme? Were they a challenge or not?  Have you ever built a Gladator kit for a  GWR 30xx ROD?  I know this kit should not be a challenge but I was wondering if you had ever posted about building one. I always enjoy your building tips, sharing your experiences must save many of us from time wasting errors. Thanks.

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Hi. I have not built perhaps 2 or 3 ACME kits.  I think you will find they are a bit hit and miss. The last one for for myself which was the IVATT 2-6-2.  Not as good as say, Gladiator and others but will make a nice loco with a bit of fettling. The ladder on the bunker rear had the be scratch built as it was very crude.  Also the coal bunker was complex and took a fair bit of fettling to get it to my satisfaction.

 

I have not built the Gladiator GWR ROD. I can say that their kits are very good and no significant problems should be encountered.  Looking at the photo, I suspect the biggest challenge will be the tender flare and getting the corner perfect. Crack that and the rest should be a breeze. (Assuming you have some experience in etched kits of course)

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Hi, thank you so much for your opinion. I had a look at the DJH Ivatt 2-6-0 but I did not think it quite caught the loco.  The made up models on the ACME site did seem closer to how I remember them.  I will find your account of the Ivatt tank build, for I am sure there will be bits that are quite similar between the locos.  The ROD will have to wait until I have time to make a copy of that nice bending plate that Metalsmith used to produce. I think that is what I need to make bending the tender flares simpler. Thanks again for the info.

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I have various Metalsmith bending tools and find them very useful for a majority of jobs.  However I prefer to use steel rods and a peen hammer to form the tender flares going gently until the correct bend is achieved. 

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Hi. There is only one way to describe this model, it's huge!   Got the two chassis sorted to run smoothly and after a rest, now on with the centre body.   One of the few kits I'm having to follow the instructions as this is not the usual run of the mill loco.

 

Sometimes I think is this wrong. But I carry on and it then fails into place. 

 

Here is todays work on the body.

 

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Hi. This is proving to be the most difficult kit I've had so far.  It would have been a lot easier had the instructions were more helpful. There is so much left to imagination.  Not least how the pipe work and other detail under the footplate works.

 

I hope I have t at least looking something right. Presenting the two chassis to the centre part is going to take some figuring out how its going to negotiate anything other than gentle curves. But that is for later on to solve.  Onwards today with the tank and bunker to solve.

 

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Presenting the two chassis to the centre part is going to take some figuring out how its going to negotiate anything other than gentle curves.

 

 

 

Hi Ken
My JM LMS Garratt was built in the1990s. It was built following John M's instructions and with the help of the photos in Essery & Jenkinson Volume Five.
Mine has the non-rotary bunker.
It will happily go round a 5ft radius curve, and I  haven't yet found the limit of it's pulling power.
John K

 

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Hi John. That's exactly what I'm doing, the help of that book and his instructions.  One question though, Did you have to put shims between the footplate and the axle bushes used for the pivots. The driving wheels are rubbing under the footplate and the ashpan is VERY close to the track. I had considered removing the spacers and raising them up bit to cure that problem.

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Hi Ken,

It's such a long time ago that this one was built that I have pointed my phone at it for a few snaps.

The first two pics show the bushes that it articulates on - same front and back. I cannot remember if these were in the kit or if they are from another source, but it does give you an idea of the height.

Third pic shows that the footplate from an engine unit lines up nicely with the footplate of the centre bit.

And finally 4th shows the ashpan clearance. It is 6mm above rail height.

 

Hope its helpful

John

 

 

 

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Edited by John K
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Hi John. Many thanks for those photos.  They solve the height issue. I have two castings in the kit that the instructions not mention and they look like they are used in conjunction with the axle bush pivots. That then will bring the height up.  

 

The instructions do not cover many of the etches and castings and it's a head scratcher to work out what is what.  I had intended to build it and see what is left and then work out where they are meant for.

 

Just about finished the water tank and then the rotary bunker is the next challenge.

 

Many thanks again.

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Hi. A start made on the rotary bunker.  Annealing the the bunker tube was a must to have any chance of getting the cone right. The rest was quite straight forward so far. Tomorrows work will be a bit more complicated as the detailing will take some time also working out how it all fits. All I have is some photos on the web and the Essay book and a very basic sketch in the instruction booklet

 

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Pressing on with the rotary coal bunker.  Taking a lot longer than anticipated many due to inadequate guidance from the instructions.

 

So it's down now to carry on with the detailing of this section of the build.

 

(Apologies for the lousy photo, it's getting dark now.)

 

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