Sandy Harper Posted February 22, 2018 Share Posted February 22, 2018 To my Yes, I understood why Ken put those steps on first. (The instructions seem to be a bit crazy to suggest otherwise.) I was merely expanding on the general matter of tender chassis, and the different approaches kit designers and builders have. Horses for courses as usual. To my knowledge only Martin Finney, of the more recent kit designers, designed his tender kits to accommodate 'outside' bearings, as per your photographs, and they needed special axles from Slaters to fit them. Most 7mm designers these days use the dummy 'inner' chassis as per Ken's build which, in my opinion, makes life a little easier to construct if not prototypically correct. As you say 'Horses for Courses'. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted February 22, 2018 Author Share Posted February 22, 2018 Hi. That's all the metal work done. All that's left now is the white metal casings to add. No work will be done tomorrow, we have old school friends calling. They happen to be railway enthusiasts, so will be an entertaining visit having just returned from a three month vacation the the US. Lots of railway photos to see as well. Anyway I digress. The build has been a pleasure and here it is so far. 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted February 24, 2018 Author Share Posted February 24, 2018 Hi back on the WB today. Tender all ready for the painting stage. The chassis is now under way. The inner frames were a doddle to assemble and the rest will be a delight too as I have built a few of these in the past. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted February 25, 2018 Author Share Posted February 25, 2018 (edited) Moving onwards, the bodywork now underway. It is fortunate for me that I have an older set of Slater's driving wheels for this one. (They came with the kit from the seller). The newer sets of wheels have the large plastic cranks. (Personally I think they are large ugly things). This means I can use the cast axle boxes and the nice etched cranks that come with the kit. (The dukedog I have under the bench has the newer wheels unfortunately so I will have to forget the cast axle boxes on that build) Here it is so far. Edited February 25, 2018 by jazz 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted February 25, 2018 Share Posted February 25, 2018 I used the old style D ended axles too. It meant I could use the nickle silver cranks supplied with the kit, I think they looked better than either of the slaters versions. Looks very neat and tidy as usual Ken. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted February 25, 2018 Author Share Posted February 25, 2018 I used the old style D ended axles too. It meant I could use the nickle silver cranks supplied with the kit, I think they looked better than either of the slaters versions. Looks very neat and tidy as usual Ken. Couldn't agree more Peter. BTW, does this mean the D axles are still available then? If so I will order two for the dukedog. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted February 25, 2018 Share Posted February 25, 2018 Couldn't agree more Peter. BTW, does this mean the D axles are still available then? If so I will order two for the dukedog. Not sure Ken. I had two sets of drivers one with each. I suppose a quick call to Slaters might find out. You do see them on Ebay sometimes. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted February 26, 2018 Author Share Posted February 26, 2018 (edited) A bit of time spent today on the Bulldog today, Still going together well. I found a couple of photos of bulldogs with the 3000 gallon tender as supplied in the kit. I know majority had the larger 3500 gall attached, so pleased I do not need to spend £100 or so on a replacement tender. Edited February 26, 2018 by jazz 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted February 26, 2018 Share Posted February 26, 2018 Ken, With my Dukedog, I found the cab inside splashers to be a bit of a fight. You seem to have done yours. Did you need to fettle much? Best Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted February 26, 2018 Author Share Posted February 26, 2018 Ken, With my Dukedog, I found the cab inside splashers to be a bit of a fight. You seem to have done yours. Did you need to fettle much? Best Simon No problem at all. (The only part to trim down was the rear curved part ). I also fitted the rear springs in there as well. I will have to trim the beachhead to fit between them though. This is not unusual on many kits that have splashers in the cab as you will probably be aware. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted February 27, 2018 Author Share Posted February 27, 2018 Well that is going well. A LOT easier that the black 5 for the same stable. No fettling of the boiler/smokebox on the kit. The only fettling was the firebox. It will not fit between the rear splashers. There are one of two choices here. 1. Cut the firebox to go round the splashers OR 2. cut away the splashers to allow the firebox to drop in. IMHO the easiest and by far the bast way to get a neat join there is the second choice. Here is the result. 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted February 28, 2018 Author Share Posted February 28, 2018 Another day and practically all the soldering done, now it's down to the small white metal stuff. So, almost there now. No problems encountered today with the build either. 13 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted March 2, 2018 Author Share Posted March 2, 2018 Hi. I got the Bulldog all ready for priming yesterday, unfortunately the ridiculous weather conditions have prevented that. (Giving that the garage is where I do the spraying.) So later today I will be building another one for my layout. Just purchased the Springside L & Y pug. Not seen running in the area I'm portraying but I just love these cute little locos. Notwithstanding the pug was the very first 0 gauge tin plate loco I built back in the '70's. I cannot remember what happened to it. But I was not enamoured with it at all. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted March 4, 2018 Author Share Posted March 4, 2018 Hi. Hoping the weather will allow painting of the Bulldog sometime next week. In the meantime a start made on the Sevenscal Pug. I purchased it last week on eBay. The seller has had it for quite a few years and beyond bolding the chassis together it's untouched. Cleaned up in the sonic cleaner and it was ready to go. I'm soldering it together as I'm not a fan of gluing these kits together. So far, so good. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted March 4, 2018 Share Posted March 4, 2018 Ken, I understand the wheels in these kits are not the usual Slaters square ends. A pal has one that really doesn’t want to slip, or be pushed as the quartering goes awry. You might want to address that before you build it completely, though I’m not wholly sure how... Best Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted March 4, 2018 Author Share Posted March 4, 2018 (edited) Ken, I understand the wheels in these kits are not the usual Slaters square ends. A pal has one that really doesn’t want to slip, or be pushed as the quartering goes awry. You might want to address that before you build it completely, though I’m not wholly sure how... Best Simon Hi Simon. The wheels in this kit are Slater's. Now the Springside pannier tank I recently built I'm not entirely convinced they are. The back to back is a touch off but other than that they look identical and I swopped the axles Slater's. This kit maybe old but it does have Springside on the box and the instruction sheets are yellowed and have CHUFFS of Sudbury on them. So who nows how old the kit actually is. Edited March 4, 2018 by jazz 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marshall5 Posted March 4, 2018 Share Posted March 4, 2018 (edited) I was going to ask if it was an original Sevenscale kit or a Springside one but you've just answered that! A couple of years ago I built a Sevenscale one and, IIRC. the frames were different to yours. From what I remember (I can't check as the instructions went with the loco when I sold it on) the wheels and axle boxes were already mounted on the axles and the frames had squarish cutouts for the axleboxes rather than the frame bushes on the back axle of yours. I don't remember any problem with the quartering - maybe Simon's pal had a duff set. It was an enjoyable kit to build despite my personal dislike of whitemetal (only good for pouring into bearings IMO) and showed that it was years ahead of its time quality wise. Good luck with the rest of the build. Cheers, Ray. Edited March 4, 2018 by Marshall5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted March 4, 2018 Author Share Posted March 4, 2018 Hi Ray. I guess it's not the original sevenscal. The chassis is very different from what you describe. Also there is an addendum sheet included for the chassis. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgman Posted March 4, 2018 Share Posted March 4, 2018 (edited) Hi Ken, This is one loco kit ( Bulldog ) I would love to make, can I ask what the min. radius is for it to manoeuvre around ? Very much enjoying this build and useful too. Grahame Edited March 4, 2018 by bgman Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted March 4, 2018 Share Posted March 4, 2018 (edited) Grahame, My Dukedog manages 5’10” radius. I have fixed the rear axle, allowed a degree of sideplay in the leading coupled axle, and the bogie pivots but does not slide. The other option is to fix the drivers and allow the bogie to slide, but this is going to compromise the bogie wheel clearance. I did a set of drawings to determine the minimum radius for S7, if you want them I can share (but they’re on the work computer, so not today!) I guess the Bulldog should be the same. Best Simon Edited March 4, 2018 by Simond Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgman Posted March 4, 2018 Share Posted March 4, 2018 Grahame, My Dukedog manages 5’10” radius. I have fixed the rear axle, allowed a degree of sideplay in the leading coupled axle, and the bogie pivots but does not slide. The other option is to fix the drivers and allow the bogie to slide, but this is going to compromise the bogie wheel clearance. I did a set of drawings to determine the minimum radius for S7, if you want them I can share (but they’re on the work computer, so not today!) I guess the Bulldog should be the same. Best Simon Thank you Simon thats very useful. I did see your build and its a very nice looking loco ( drool ! ). The drawings would be useful thank, you very kind offer. That said I'm in my infancy with a small layout design, just come off Templot having a play around, so to speak, as I've got a couple of baseboards 1500 long x 600 wide and seeing what will fit. I accept what you are saying about the front bogie side play so thats another "problem" to think about. Kind regards Grahame Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted March 4, 2018 Author Share Posted March 4, 2018 Graham. My layout has a minimum radius of 6'. As such I have never really thought about what the minimum would be. The kit does state that reducing the bogie wheel size will assist for tighter radius. One of my builds I sold does run on less than that with the smaller wheels and would probably be similar to Simons. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted March 4, 2018 Share Posted March 4, 2018 Yes, I’d agree with Ken, if you go down a few inches in bogie wheel size, (say 3’2”, though I’m convinced this is wrong!) you’ll get quite a lot tighter. A layout 3m long & 600mm wide will be a shunting layout anyway, so as long as you can get it across a Peco crossover, you’ll be fine, mine manages that without problems. Best Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgman Posted March 4, 2018 Share Posted March 4, 2018 (edited) Graham. My layout has a minimum radius of 6'. As such I have never really thought about what the minimum would be. The kit does state that reducing the bogie wheel size will assist for tighter radius. One of my builds I sold does run on less than that with the smaller wheels and would probably be similar to Simons. Ken / Simon Thank you both that is very useful to know. I've / will be making handmade points using 31.5mm gauges which have taken both kit and RTR 0-6-0's without problems to B7 on Templot, I was curious to know if a 4-4-0 wheel arrangement would work too. I purchased one of Warren Shepards Dean Goods kits at the Bristol show and will be on the workbench as soon as I can clear space. To quote you Ken - "Learning by doing" Grahame p.s. A bit tongue in cheek, if you know of anyone with some spare JLTRT stretcher bar etches I'd be pleased to know ! Edited March 4, 2018 by bgman Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
doilum Posted March 4, 2018 Share Posted March 4, 2018 My pug came at Christmas 1980. The wheels were a push fit on plain axles. After a hard life mine awaits a rebuild. Slipping wheels and loss of quartering are the main problems. The instructions and layout of parts would put to shame 90% of current kits. That said, at £90, it was a full weeks wage. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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