Parkside Dundas Wheel woes

[Clive Mortimore]

2mm .. what's that in Imperial ... in the USA still old school measurements ..

I am sure you must be able to get 2mm drills in the States, if not next time you order some model stuff from the UK get them to include some 2mm drills.

[57xx]

I am sure you must be able to get 2mm drills in the States

 

Probably very rare when they can use the superior imperial system...

 

[melmerby]

Probably very rare when they can use the superior imperial system...

 

 

Surely anyone with an US engineering background would use number (or letter) drills!

 

Keith

[Phil Parker]

Surely anyone with an US engineering background would use number (or letter) drills!

 

Keith

No, they'd shoot a hole in it with their rootin' tootin' pistol!

[Sasquatch]

Nice tip about drilling solvent fume vent holes. And I forgot to weight the van .. flip ...

Sorry to hear of your woes with these kits. There is plenty of free advise to be had on RMweb as you seem to have found out.

 

If you need to add weight to the van once the roof has been fixed, support the van upside down and try gluing some BB gun pellets under the floor._Edit: Or you could just get your rootin tootin pistol out and just blast them straight through the floor. I prefer to use Mod Podge and leave it over night! BB gun pellets are very handy for adding weight to trains, this method can also be used to fix bad running engines! Also killing gophers and rabbied squirrels who destroy your years worth of veg garden but the boys back home wouldn't understand that.

 

Best of luck, Shaun

[Sasquatch]

I am sure you must be able to get 2mm drills in the States, if not next time you order some model stuff from the UK get them to include some 2mm drills.

Yes Harbor Freight (because everything in the store is made in China). Really cheap too!

[davefrk]

I've been thinking that I should be selling 2mm drills as most of our buffers require a 2mm hole in the bufferbeam, I do have some for my own use but could stock them on the website for just this occasion, medium quality for about a quid. What do you think people? 

Would this be called 'feedback'?

 

Dave Franks.

[Mallard60022]

Good idea Dave. I cant remember if the 2mm size is 'advised' with your lovely buffers (on the pack?) and I almost always misjudge and end up guessing with a broach!

Phil

[davefrk]

Good idea Dave. I cant remember if the 2mm size is 'advised' with your lovely buffers (on the pack?) and I almost always misjudge and end up guessing with a broach!

Phil

 

Hi Phil, no instructions with the wagon buffers but hints and tips are on the website under.... Hints and Tips.

 

Dave Franks.

[Ian Abel]

I am sure you must be able to get 2mm drills in the States, if not next time you order some model stuff from the UK get them to include some 2mm drills.

Indeed, of course you can - it's not THAT BACKWARD here!

 

A quick search show they can even be sourced from such ubiquitous places as Walmart and Amazon.com for very small sums, e.g. a set of 1.05 - 2.00mm bits for $5.99 from Amazon with FREE shipping, doesn't come easier than that! And I KNOW my local hobby shop carries metric sizes.

Whilst I can't use my local model shop for anything approaching UK outline models, they have a very extensive section for the more "generic" needs, including tools, adhesives, paints, scenic materials, etc. Metric sizes are common on a lot of imported R/C models and totally available in any half-way decent supply location.

[Enterprisingwestern]

I've been thinking that I should be selling 2mm drills as most of our buffers require a 2mm hole in the bufferbeam, I do have some for my own use but could stock them on the website for just this occasion, medium quality for about a quid. What do you think people? 

Would this be called 'feedback'?

 

Dave Franks.

 

Point of order.

Bearing in mind I'm no engineer, but you won't get a 2mm buffer shank in a 2mm hole without a bit of a fight, or 2mm wheel bearing for that matter, hence the reason I use a 2.1mm drill for all Uncle Dave's lovely wares that require such.

I also have a piece of ply with a piece of fine emery glued to it, and drilled  with 2.1mm holes, into which I insert said buffers etc and rotate them to round off the the shanks and get rid of any inevitable mould lines on the rear face of the buffer to allow them to sit flat on the buffer beam, Not just Dave's buffers I hasten to add.

 

Mike.

 

Mike.

[Retfordlad]

Lots of useful advice ..and great ideas .. keep it coming .......thanks ! R.

[Clive Mortimore]

Indeed, of course you can - it's not THAT BACKWARD here!

 

A quick search show they can even be sourced from such ubiquitous places as Walmart and Amazon.com for very small sums, e.g. a set of 1.05 - 2.00mm bits for $5.99 from Amazon with FREE shipping, doesn't come easier than that! And I KNOW my local hobby shop carries metric sizes.

Whilst I can't use my local model shop for anything approaching UK outline models, they have a very extensive section for the more "generic" needs, including tools, adhesives, paints, scenic materials, etc. Metric sizes are common on a lot of imported R/C models and totally available in any half-way decent supply location.

Hi Ian

 

One of my interest is artillery weapons, the US Army was talking mm for gun calibers in naming their guns when we still called our guns by the weight of the shot they fired. I think the US like many here in Britain have a fear of something that is not home grown. Measuring and using metric sizes is no different as an activity just the numbers are different. 

 

Many people say they can judge sizes easier using inches, ask any lady how big six inches is and the will compare it with their little finger, saying "My hubby/boyfriend/partner says it is this big".

[Fat Controller]

Hi Ian

 

One of my interest is artillery weapons, the US Army was talking mm for gun calibers in naming their guns when we still called our guns by the weight of the shot they fired. I think the US like many here in Britain have a fear of something that is not home grown. Measuring and using metric sizes is no different as an activity just the numbers are different. 

 

Many people say they can judge sizes easier using inches, ask any lady how big six inches is and the will compare it with their little finger, saying "My hubby/boyfriend/partner says it is this big".

Weren't some American calibres direct conversions of Imperial sizes? The later Shermans had 76.2mm guns, which is 3", for example.

[Clive Mortimore]

Weren't some American calibres direct conversions of Imperial sizes? The later Shermans had 76.2mm guns, which is 3", for example.

Hi Brian

 

Yep, later Shermans had a 76.2mm gun which was developed around the ballistics of the shot and shells of the US 3 inch coastal and anti-aircraft guns. The British re-armed 75mm gun Shermans with the 17 pdr gun, it too was 76.2mm or 3 inches, totally different to the US 76.2mm, much great punch.

 

Anyhow back to Parkside kits, I don't seem to have a problem with the supplied axle bearings fitting in their axle boxes. I just push them in.

[ejstubbs]

The first incarnation of the Soviet T-34 also had a 76.2mm main gun.

[Clive Mortimore]

The first incarnation of the Soviet T-34 also had a 76.2mm main gun.

The Russian Imperial Army brought many weapons form Vickers in the late 19th century, and later built them under licence. Hence their ansenals were set up to make weapons in inches. At some point the French got involved and the Russians started to call their weapons by xyz mm but still building 3 inch, 4.5 inch, 6 inch and 8 inch caliber guns. They also built some to calibers no one else did, 84mm, 107mm and 122mm are not French or British calibers.

 

Back to Parkside wagons, what I do have a problem with is the solbar and axle guard mouldings splaying out after a period of time, allowing the axles to drop out.

[sharris]

Could you brace the solebars with some plastic strip?

[Mallard60022]

The Russian Imperial Army brought many weapons form Vickers in the late 19th century, and later built them under licence. Hence their ansenals were set up to make weapons in inches. At some point the French got involved and the Russians started to call their weapons by xyz mm but still building 3 inch, 4.5 inch, 6 inch and 8 inch caliber guns. They also built some to calibers no one else did, 84mm, 107mm and 122mm are not French or British calibers.

 

Back to Parkside wagons, what I do have a problem with is the solbar and axle guard mouldings splaying out after a period of time, allowing the axles to drop out.

I've found that reapplying certain types of liquid poly along the solebar/floor joint can 'loosen' the original joint if poly was used in the first place. Enough to allow a readjustment of the solebar/axlebox.

Philth

Phil

[57xx]

Point of order.

Bearing in mind I'm no engineer, but you won't get a 2mm buffer shank in a 2mm hole without a bit of a fight, or 2mm wheel bearing for that matter, hence the reason I use a 2.1mm drill for all Uncle Dave's lovely wares that require such.

 

Given we are not performing precision engineering operations down to a thou, 2mm drill bits works just fine for a transition fit. I've not had any problems with the dozens of kits I've done so far which have wheel bearings and LMS buffers fitted. Occasionally a buffer needs a fettle to get the shank round, but I prefer doing that than making the hole oversize.

 

 

I've been thinking that I should be selling 2mm drills as most of our buffers require a 2mm hole in the bufferbeam, I do have some for my own use but could stock them on the website for just this occasion, medium quality for about a quid. What do you think people? 

Good idea for a one-stop shop for those that haven't got one already. I'm still working my way through the bits in this set I bought about 8 years ago though.

[Retfordlad]

Thought occurs. Before inserting the bearings should I flush sand the backs of the axle boxes as the bearing stand slightly proud due to the raised detail molded on the rear of the boxes. .....

[Wolfy]

Thought occurs. Before inserting the bearings should I flush sand the backs of the axle boxes as the bearing stand slightly proud due to the raised detail molded on the rear of the boxes. .....

Try test fitting the bearings, axle boxes and wheels first. Depending on how it all goes together you might find that there is a little side-play if the bearings are pushed all the way home, although PD's 4 mm kits are usually pretty good in my experience.

[Enterprisingwestern]

Thought occurs. Before inserting the bearings should I flush sand the backs of the axle boxes as the bearing stand slightly proud due to the raised detail molded on the rear of the boxes. .....

 

"Generally speaking", yes, although a dry run can sometimes show whether this is necessary or not.

More important IMHO is to rub the top edge of the solebar on a sheet of emery whilst it's still on the fret to give a good level and flat edge to fix it to the floor.

 

Mike.

[sharris]

"Generally speaking", yes, although a dry run can sometimes show whether this is necessary or not.

More important IMHO is to rub the top edge of the solebar on a sheet of emery whilst it's still on the fret to give a good level and flat edge to fix it to the floor.

 

Mike.

 

It's also a good idea in a dry run to make sure that the solebars, ends and floor all mate nicely - if they don't you won't get the solebars butting up well against the rear of the headstocks - a good joint here helps stop the solebars and axleboxes from splaying out.

[Retfordlad]

Quick up date .. got the new sole bars . Thanks Parkside .. used drill bit on the axles after gluing them in the bearings stayed and so did the wheels. However with the awful basic instruction sheet and my eyesight most of the smallest parts are consigned to the bin. Just trying to assemble and glue on the steps was a headache ...took sever hours to assemble and once dry fudge to where in my mind loops good. anyone out there assemble these things professionally ready to paint ?