Signaller69's projects

[jessy1692]

3 hours ago, Signaller69 said:

Some sort of mechanism from under the baseboard, which can lift and turn should be possible in theory, provided the centre of gravity was in the right place of course; whether I would want to do it is another question!

Ah never thought of something under the baseboard, i was trying to think of something that could be small enough/adapted to go in/under the model, nothing immediately comes to mind though!

 

Interesting prospect but hardly a necessity like you say, still the thought kept me occupied for a little while.

 

Keep us the great work

James

[leopardml2341]

6 hours ago, Signaller69 said:

Some sort of mechanism from under the baseboard, which can lift and turn should be possible in theory, provided the centre of gravity was in the right place of course; whether I would want to do it is another question!

 

3 hours ago, jessy1692 said:

Ah never thought of something under the baseboard, i was trying to think of something that could be small enough/adapted to go in/under the model, nothing immediately comes to mind though!

 

Interesting prospect but hardly a necessity like you say, still the thought kept me occupied for a little while.

 

Keep us the great work

James

Here, about 1:00

https://www.youtube.com/watch%3Fv%3DZ0W60z4MbZE&ved=2ahUKEwjFur7OldPoAhXUVsAKHQTFAwIQwqsBMAp6BAgLEAU&usg=AOvVaw3o5JHBrsImTQHC5GCZy5RC

[Signaller69]

6 minutes ago, leopardml2341 said:

 

Here, about 1:00

https://www.youtube.com/watch%3Fv%3DZ0W60z4MbZE&ved=2ahUKEwjFur7OldPoAhXUVsAKHQTFAwIQwqsBMAp6BAgLEAU&usg=AOvVaw3o5JHBrsImTQHC5GCZy5RC

Thanks, thats nice, all very clever and all, but just seems a bit too gimmicky for me. Also it's more like a crane where only the body rotates, not the whole thing. Very clever what you can do with DCC though! 

I think even DCC would struggle where the wheels- and thus electrical contact - have to be lifted clear of the rails too though.

[Signaller69]

3 hours ago, jessy1692 said:

Ah never thought of something under the baseboard, i was trying to think of something that could be small enough/adapted to go in/under the model, nothing immediately comes to mind though!

 

Interesting prospect but hardly a necessity like you say, still the thought kept me occupied for a little while.

 

Keep us the great work

James

Keeping electrical continuity would be the issue if the mech is in the Tamper, as the wheels are lifted clear of the track of course....I suppose a PCB strip onto the rail head as part of the jacking mechanism might work but it would need DCC in any case, which isn't for me I'm afraid.

[jonhall]

I missed this thread initially, but now I've seen it - these might be useful 

 

[hmrspaul]

There is an 06-32 conserved, https://PaulBartlett.zenfolio.com/tamper/e55819042

 

http://www.ws.rhrp.org.uk/ws/WagonInfo.asp?Ref=7333

 

https://www.ontrackplant.com/otp/73010

 

Paul

[Signaller69]

4 hours ago, hmrspaul said:

There is an 

4 hours ago, hmrspaul said:

There is an 06-32 conserved, https://PaulBartlett.zenfolio.com/tamper/e55819042

 

Paul

 

Thanks Paul, as always I visited the site during research, your link is a different version but this one is the type I am doing:

https://paulbartlett.zenfolio.com/paulbartlettsrailwaywagonphotographs/hE1B1F66

 

Thanks,

Martyn.

[Signaller69]

Working from photos that have come to light I have done a little more on the back end, extending the frames around the mechanism and building up the body profile ready to fit the framework which carries the working parts, as well as adding a H shaped strengthener along the top edge of the body. 

I have also ordered a few packs of Evergreen section from Hattons, including different sizes of 1/4 round to make the round edges of the flat bonnet and roof. I decided against the Airfix Railbus roof as it more rounded than my memory suggested.

[Signaller69]

The distinctive, unusual, outside brake discs and calipers have been fitted; these are purely cosmetic and don't rotate. The tamping equipment is in the early stages of being added too using odds and ends from the bits box.

[jessy1692]

1 hour ago, Signaller69 said:

The distinctive, unusual, outside brake discs and calipers have been fitted; these are purely cosmetic and don't rotate. The tamping equipment is in the early stages of being added too using odds and ends from the bits box.

This is looking fantastic already Martyn, what a brilliant contraption!

 

Edited April 7, 2020 by jessy1692

[Signaller69]

After studying photos and a brief description of the workings, I have rehashed the inner end workings; these are outside the rails and grip and lift the sleepers by a system of hydraulic clamps. Each side was made as a sub assembly of 22 parts.

Once fixed in place the drive belt cover was added. I need to check photos as to what goes inside the framework now. Dampers have also been added to the rear axlebox/brake disk assembly.

[ISW]

Martyn,

 

I've attached a marked up photo showing / explaining the purposes of the 'bits' at the overhanging end of the DuoMatic.

 

However, I'm not entirely convinced that the 06-32 DuoMatic is capable of laterally slewing the track. It may only be capable of lifting only. The reason being that the slewing force will tend to 'rotate' the machine on the track. I can't see any method of resisting the slewing force. That's where the 07-series, with the tamping / lifting / slewing mechanism between the bogies, scores.

 

The 'belt drive', on the side of the tamping tynes, is what causes the tynes to pivot in/out longitudinally to the rails. There's probably a cam at the top of the tynes. 

 

 

[Signaller69]

24 minutes ago, ISW said:

Martyn,

 

I've attached a marked up photo showing / explaining the purposes of the 'bits' at the overhanging end of the DuoMatic.

 

However, I'm not entirely convinced that the 06-32 DuoMatic is capable of laterally slewing the track. It may only be capable of lifting only. The reason being that the slewing force will tend to 'rotate' the machine on the track. I can't see any method of resisting the slewing force. That's where the 07-series, with the tamping / lifting / slewing mechanism between the bogies, scores.

 

The 'belt drive', on the side of the tamping tynes, is what causes the tynes to pivot in/out longitudinally to the rails. There's probably a cam at the top of the tynes. 

 

 

Thanks for the technical info Ian. I'm hoping to find some suitable small tube to slice to represent the rollers at the back amongst all my bits and pieces.

[Signaller69]

My Evergreen order arrived so I have been able to make the basic bonnet and roof outlines, the 1/4 round section being required for the edges of these. Further overlays and other details, as well as some extra weight, will be added as required before fixing them in place.

 

My thanks go to Ian (ISW) and Jon hall for the information and photos they have provided or linked, which have cleared up many of the small operational and detail queries I had. There were clearly many similar yet different versions of the 06-32, both in the UK and Europe so comparison with the photos against the specific BR one I am basing the model on is an interesting exercise!

[saxokid]

Just had good catch up here Martyn great modelling as always...

 

 

cheers neil..

[Signaller69]

The curved front pillar windows have been drilled and filed, the roof front corners filed to match the profile and a couple of small air tanks made and fitted. The front axle boxes were moved back to a more correct location. As it is so low, the air tanks hide this subterfuge from most angles. The 29 in the photos is just to give an idea of size.

[Gibbo675]

22 minutes ago, Signaller69 said:

The curved front pillar windows have been drilled and filed, the roof front corners filed to match the profile and a couple of small air tanks made and fitted. The front axle boxes were moved back to a more correct location. As it is so low, the air tanks hide this subterfuge from most angles. The 29 in the photos is just to give an idea of size.

Hi Martyn,

 

The tamper is form quite a different design school as the class 29, it has shades of Flash Gordon by way of comparison.

 

Gibbo.

[Signaller69]

Work is ongoing on the bonnet detail and roof; the 10thou "coffin lid" (for want of a better phrase) on the roof is V2, the first being a tad too small. V2 has been fixed in place, the various small skylight windows will be drilled and filed out; I prefer this method to trying to cut them all out with a scalpel while it was still a flat piece of plasticard. The shape was created by scribing lines inside the roof until it could be folded, with the corner angles carefully cut away. Mek was applied along the scribed lines and corners and once dry it was fitted over the cut out in the roof.

 

When the windows are all done it will be just a matter of adding all the remaining small detail.

 

Weight has been added in the bonnet (which will be left loose until painted and the front grille fitted) as well as inside the bodywork. Care was taken to get a balance point roughly midway between the axleboxes so that a through the baseboard system of turning it can hopefully be devised on Crinan (I'm thinking along the lines of wire-in-tube which will allow the vertical and rotational aspects, with a faux foot crossing or similar to act as a baseplate which will locate under a flat plate below the chassis).

[Railfreight1998]

Impressive work - the rear of the machine looks particularly good with all the tamping equipment

[Signaller69]

4 hours ago, Railfreight1998 said:

Impressive work - the rear of the machine looks particularly good with all the tamping equipment

Thanks, still a lot of work to do in this area, including more bracing, hydraulic hoses and the measurement sled which was carried on the rear. Should keep me busy for a while!

[AlfaZagato]

This is looking really good.   I've always enjoyed MoW equipment.

[Signaller69]

As is often the case, today I decided to take a break from cutting plasticard for the Tamper and get "a round tuit" quick job done, this time preparing my Dapol class 29 for a renumber from D6114 to 6133, which kept its small yellow warning panel into 1971. I decided I couldn't live with the almost lime green upper bodysides so these had Railmatch Sherwood Green brushed on as per my Bachby model of 6123; it needs another coat yet but visually it instantly looked better to me. My usual method of removing printed numbers with a pointed coffee stirrer and cream cleaner didn't touch these so I painted over them.

Before:

 

After 1 coat:

 

And with 6123:

Numbers, data panels and overhead flashes need adding with a good dose of weathering to match a 1970 photo. Already it looks much better alongside 6123, which received its FYE in 1970.

[ISW]

On 17/04/2020 at 00:07, Signaller69 said:

.... I decided I couldn't live with the almost lime green upper bodysides so these had Railmatch Sherwood Green brushed on as per my Bachby model of 6123; it needs another coat yet but visually it instantly looked better to me. My usual method of removing printed numbers with a pointed coffee stirrer and cream cleaner didn't touch these so I painted over them.

 

Martyn,

 

Have you ever tried the Sharpie Pen method of removing numbers? It worked beautifully on my old Hornby 25s, Lima 20, & Airfix 31s. You just rub over the numbers with the Sharpie (preferably of a colour similar to the loco!) and the combination of the ink solvent and the abrasiveness of the pen tip removed the number. It does leave a 'smooth' surface, but as I always paint over the new number with a matt clear it doesn't matter.

 

The only thing to beware of is the 'paint' from the number does tend to 'clog up' the end of the Sharpie.

 

[Signaller69]

4 hours ago, ISW said:

Martyn,

 

Have you ever tried the Sharpie Pen method of removing numbers? It worked beautifully on my old Hornby 25s, Lima 20, & Airfix 31s. You just rub over the numbers with the Sharpie (preferably of a colour similar to the loco!) and the combination of the ink solvent and the abrasiveness of the pen tip removed the number. It does leave a 'smooth' surface, but as I always paint over the new number with a matt clear it doesn't matter.

 

The only thing to beware of is the 'paint' from the number does tend to 'clog up' the end of the Sharpie.

 

Not tried that method Ian, used various others, T-cut etc but nothing seemed to shift these. The painted patch over the numbers was better after a second coat happily, and now numbers have been applied it is barely noticable. The Sherwood green has had the second coat too. Weathering should blend everything together hopefully.

[Signaller69]

6133 is done for now, a very light coat of grime has been applied. I intend to do further work with the airbrush at some point.

 

I have also replaced the buffers on 6123 as the standard loco oval buffers I had used were too anorexic for a 29, using some spare Bachmann sprung ones with a sleeve of aluminium tube over them; they need weathering yet. 

 

Both locos had the buffer shanks painted silver too, but it doesn't show in the photos.

 

Anyway, back to the Tamper next all being well!