Signaller69's projects

[Signaller69]

When I started out with the various 24 & 25 conversions I mentioned the idea of making some of them capable of multiple working via micro plugs and sockets, which should provide mutually improved running qualities. Before I can do this I needed to sort the couplings as I use Kadees; the simplest solution was to adapt No.20 NEM couplers with a hole drilled through the shank and screwed to the part of the bogie moulding left after cutting off the tension lock loops and trimming excess plastic away to leave a flat mounting surface. The result may not be as aesthetically pleasing as a No.5 screwed to the rear of the bufferbeam but it does allow for sharper curves.

The screws used are of possibly Triang or Hornby Dublo origin, being very small but with a large head which helps keep the coupler level.

 

From normal angles the result isn't too obtrusive.

 

 

 

Now I need to figure out the placement of the plugs and sockets...

 

Martyn.

[Signaller69]

I have modified the first pair of 24s with the Multiple Working micro connectors of the type pictured here:The larger female end has the socket glued to the bogie frame, with the 2 wires threaded through a hole drilled through the bogie frame behind it, and soldered to appropriate connections on the motor bogie. The male connection is loosely threaded through the gap between the second loco's motor bogie and chassis cutout via a small notch in the bogie frame behind the coupling support so that it emerges on the same side as the female socket and clear of the couplings, but is other wise free floating.

 

 

 

 

The red and black connections are reversed on the female loco (compared to the male shown above) as the motor bogie is the opposite orientation when so connected but I now need to test them as a pair to be certain I got it right! Care had to be taken to ensure the various wires are well clear of gears and wheels, and they have been tidied a little further since the photos were taken.

 

Once tested, the visible parts will be painted to disguise the appearance hopefully.

 

The female connector might be compatible with the Hornby Ruston 48ds pick up wagon connector, which might permit a different combination of extra pickups, but I need to dig it out to see if this is the case.

[AlfaZagato]

Interesting solution to multiple running.   I suppose it beats the old solution of 'just run them together and hope for the best.'

[Signaller69]

1 hour ago, AlfaZagato said:

Interesting solution to multiple running.   I suppose it beats the old solution of 'just run them together and hope for the best.'

That's the thinking yes, whilst retaining the option of using singly if desired - I should have said the loco with the male connector can have the lead withdrawn and tucked away inside the loco body.

[Signaller69]

Edit - Duplicate post

Edited April 22, 2022 by Signaller69
Duplicate post

[Signaller69]

As another break from 24/25 projects I decided to have a go at producing a BR Flatrol MHH from a couple of old Triang Weltrol wagons, based on drawing 511 in the BR "Diagrams of Specially Contructed Vehicles" book on the Barrowmore site.

 

As with many of my projects this is more about making my best of a rather dated model, than producing something to satisfy the most ardent of rivet counters.....

 

At 58' over headstocks this was a fairly long variant and 2 Triang bodies were cut, lowered and shut to give the overall length required, with weight added inside the well and plasticard overlays added to match various photos.

 

 

Talking of rivets, I decided early on not to even try embossing hundreds of the things in plasticard in neat, perfectly spaced straight lines, largely as I have a sheet of Archer resin rivet transfers which I hope will do the trick.

 

I did decide to open out the platform end framework and fit Plastruct 'C' section girders where they can be seen, as well as extra plasticard plating where required. The inner ends of the platforms are plated as that is what seems to be on the BR versions, and as I'm probably going with a photo of a black Departmental version, this has a locker at one end in any case.

 

I retained the original plastic bogies. The complicated single sided Bogie ratchet brake handles were bent up from some ancient castings and plastic bits, along with axlebox covers etc, a little crude perhaps but does the trick. The coarse Trix wheelsets are a temporary stop gap.

Photos of the real set up; I believe this may be an MHH, or possibly its LMS forerunner (at Bristol Harbour Railway. My Photos):

 

 

I found the LMS oval wagon buffers in my stash and fitted those too, cosmetic coupling hooks to go on next and I have some etched shackles to go along the sides and 10.5mm wheels in the post from Wizard Models. 

 

But otherwise it is getting close to the undercoat stage (at which point the rivets can be added, oh joy!).

 

Martyn.

[Enterprisingwestern]

 

https://www.stonehouses.co.uk/signwriting-pinstriping/pounce-wheels.html

 

I know it's a bit late now, but are you aware of these for making rivets in plastic card/thin brass?

Depending on the thickness of the substrate, they can either be presented in positive or negative profile, if the latter, when painted the eye is fooled by a line of "something" as it is not usually seen close up, or, the holes can be filled with a microspot of superglue.

 

Mike.

[Signaller69]

On 19/05/2022 at 06:52, Enterprisingwestern said:

 

https://www.stonehouses.co.uk/signwriting-pinstriping/pounce-wheels.html

 

I know it's a bit late now, but are you aware of these for making rivets in plastic card/thin brass?

Depending on the thickness of the substrate, they can either be presented in positive or negative profile, if the latter, when painted the eye is fooled by a line of "something" as it is not usually seen close up, or, the holes can be filled with a microspot of superglue.

 

Mike.

Hi Mike,

Thanks for the link, I was previously aware of this useful device but had completely forgotten in the meantime! Hey ho, as you say it's a bit late now so I will go with the transfers, which are probably still more subtle than I would manage with any dedicated tool.

 

Cheers,

Martyn.

[john new]

The cog wheel thingies for pattern tracing can be bought at dress making stores too. Our local one is good* and stocks several items I have bought for modelling that have nothing related to their designed purpose when I use them! 

* (Sew & Sews in Weymouth)

Edited May 20, 2022 by john new
Typo

[Signaller69]

On 20/05/2022 at 11:51, john new said:

The cog wheel thingies for pattern tracing can be bought at dress making stores too. Our local one is good* and stocks several items I have bought for modelling that have nothing related to their designed purpose when I use them! 

* (Sew & Sews in Weymouth)

Thanks John, I'm in Wemouth for a week in July so will try to call in for a gander!

 

Martyn.

[john new]

15 minutes ago, Signaller69 said:

Thanks John, I'm in Wemouth for a week in July so will try to call in for a gander!

 

Martyn.

They are in Westham Rd, just round the corner from the King's Statue. The things like the various sizes of press studs, spools of fine copper wire, various tools like the pattern pricker etc., are all on the back wall. They also have light lubricating oil for sewing machines.

Edited May 21, 2022 by john new

[Signaller69]

The "Frankentrol" has had the 51L wheels and shackles added - the latter were more straightforward than I had thought - I bent the support through 90° as per the photo below, which gave a much greater area to super glue along the top edge of the solebar channel where it can't be seen.

 

 

After which the shackles were also superglued into place.

 

And the wagon could then have undercoat applied.

 

 

A gloss coat will follow to give the rivet transfers a good surface to adhere to.

 

Martyn.

[Corbs]

Top work so far! I love the conversions of old stuff like this rather than consigning them to the heap.

 

@andythenorththis is the Tri-ang conversion I sent you a picture of.

[Fat Controller]

There was another, similar, ex-LMS design that had the headstocks attached to the bogies

[Signaller69]

Thanks all for the supportive comments.🤩

 

Now I'm having a riveting time going dotty!

 

I only have enough strips of rivets to do the end platforms (with anything approaching the correct spacing) and at £14 - £17 per small sheet - if you can get the right ones in the UK - the well will have to do without, short of cutting out individual rivets, which I don't think my eyes or mind can cope with! That said, those seem to be more flush with the deck so I may look at alternative methods. Covering much of it with a load won't harm either!

 

I am not a rivet counter, despite the foregoing, and am pretty confident there are not the correct amount, should anyone wish to count them!🙃

 

Martyn.

[33C]

1 minute ago, Signaller69 said:

Thanks all for the supportive comments.🤩

 

Now I'm having a riveting time going dotty!

 

I only have enough strips of rivets to do the end platforms (with anything approaching the correct spacing) and at £14 - £17 per small sheet - if you can get the right ones in the UK - the well will have to do without, short of cutting out individual rivets, which I don't think my eyes or mind can cope with! That said, those seem to be more flush with the deck so I may look at alternative methods. Covering much of it with a load won't harm either!

 

I am not a rivet counter, despite the foregoing, and am pretty confident there are not the correct amount, should anyone wish to count them!🙃

 

Martyn.

Get a Leather stich marker tool and a steel rule. Lots of instant rivets!

[cctransuk]

17 hours ago, Signaller69 said:

The "Frankentrol" has had the 51L wheels and shackles added - the latter were more straightforward than I had thought - I bent the support through 90° as per the photo below, which gave a much greater area to super glue along the top edge of the solebar channel where it can't be seen.

 

 

The 51L 'shackles' are, in fact, stanchions and securing loops for bolster wagons.

 

The straight etching with an eye is not intended as a ring-bolt with which to attach a securing loop; it is a stanchion for inserting into a bolster.

 

Nonetheless, you have adapted them very well for your purposes.

 

CJI.

[AlfaZagato]

What are you going to load it with?

[Signaller69]

3 hours ago, AlfaZagato said:

What are you going to load it with?

 

Current plan is a Portacabin type structure, but subject to change!

[Signaller69]

The sheet of rivet decals I was using has 4 columns of different styles, each of 2 different spacings, each of those variants having 4 rows. Having used four rows to do the Flatrol end platforms, I realised I could use the closer spaced rows by cutting across the 4 rows to give 4 better spaced rivets, so dozens of such cuts later I managed to do the bed of the wagon too;

 

In some ways this made application much easier than trying to position long straight lines from 1 transfer without it breaking up, and the process was much quicker than might be imagined.

The whole was carefully brush varnished with acrylic satin and left to dry for 48 hours and has just had a light dusting of grey undercoat without any issues. A coat of black will follow, followed by lettering.

[AlfaZagato]

Modelling a Lotus Europa JPS taught me the hard way about long decals.   Though I hadn't had the same issue with dry transfers.

 

Do the Archer transfers stick OK on the first go?  I've had issues with other brands now and again.

[Signaller69]

1 hour ago, AlfaZagato said:

Modelling a Lotus Europa JPS taught me the hard way about long decals.   Though I hadn't had the same issue with dry transfers.

 

Do the Archer transfers stick OK on the first go?  I've had issues with other brands now and again.

They do stick quite well on glossy surfaces yes, but need to dry completely prior to painting/varnishing; longer strips have a tendency to bunch so very careful positioning with a small wet brush or point of a knife blade is needed; if they bunch into the bristles of a brush they will never be seen again!😵

I learned from small experiments early on that they need to be applied on a glossy light coloured background, they are impossible to see on black backgrounds for instance. From online videos and photos, most Modellers seem to apply them before painting eg directly onto unpainted US brass locos, aircraft kits etc.

Another point is that I used HO scale rivets which are, I think, slightly undersized for what I am representing (certainly compared to the very nicely moulded Triang rivet work on the wagon sides). I suspect O scale rivets might be worth a look for representing the more substantial wagon chassis rivets in 4mm scale.

One final point is test your varnish on a test piece before treating the whole wagon. As mentioned I brush acrylic varnish over treated areas, allow to dry for another 48hrs and then spray over with acrylic car sprays which has not caused any issues.

[Signaller69]

The Flatrol has had it's top coat of black applied, along with lettering and a tool locker based off the photo I am using of this particular wagon. Now I need to build a Portacabin to sit on the deck (again following the photo), which is an ideal load for any setting, be it a goods yard, loco depot etc.

[jessy1692]

5 minutes ago, Signaller69 said:

The Flatrol has had it's top coat of black applied, along with lettering and a tool locker based off the photo I am using of this particular wagon. Now I need to build a Portacabin to sit on the deck (again following the photo), which is an ideal load for any setting, be it a goods yard, loco depot etc.

What a model! I'll be following your lead ar somepoint I'm sure Martyn. Love it.

All the best

James

[Signaller69]

12 hours ago, jessy1692 said:

What a model! I'll be following your lead ar somepoint I'm sure Martyn. Love it.

All the best

James

Thankyou kindly James!

 

Martyn.