Grim-up-North; Goathland, Queensbury & Bradford.

[Sasquatch]

So yesterday I turned my attention to the signals. The next few pages should be dedicated to the building and installation of this infrastructure on the layout.

 

Having done a quick costing exercise on the use of kits from MSE and considered using servos, I have come up with a budget plan being the skinflint that I am.  

 

So there's a  box full of signal stuff I've accumulated over the years in which are several GWR parts. My intention is to kit bash these into the NE types. However the first one is so far mostly scratch built.   

I'm not too worried about true accuracy of these, more the correct look. As with my other layout Dunster, the signals will be working and have lights in the lamps. It's all great fun.

 

The first thing to do was to come up with a replacement for the lost coloured lenses. This was done by smearing a mix of cake colouring and PVA  across where needed.Thanks to some tips from RMweb members Missy and Richbrummit for suggesting this.

 

First up is the bracketed down starter signal.

This is the one I'm replacing on the layout. Built from a Ratio LMS kit. 

 

 

Here's the prototype (next to the class 4).

 

 

 

I have created a drawing from a scaled down a picture of the bracket signal next to a class 4 mogul and measuring the image on the lop-top screen.

 

The post is made from Evergreen L section, the joints have been mitered by scraping the Stanley blade along both edges at once. These are then glued around the Ratio GWR base. A hole has been drilled in the base up through the stem to accommodate the tiny grain of rice bulb.

 

Next I fashioned two brackets from 10thou. styrene. This proved unsuccessful so I tried 20thou. which came out better.

 

I've just realized that I have fixed the base the wrong way around as the NE slotted post signals had the ladders on the facing side as opposed to the back on the GWR types. An easy fix I'm sure. More when I get the time.

Squatch. edit: See post 1300 for pics. of the lit signal cabin interior.

Edited April 15, 2015 by Sasquatch

[Sasquatch]

Last night working under gas light due to a power outage/cut I managed to build up the doll and get the arm swinging nicely.

the lamp has been drilled out to accommodate the tiny bulb with a 1.5mm bit and the lens with a .75mm to allow the light to shine through the colored spectacle plates and has been set in just right to allow this.

[freebs]

this is fine modelling indeed

[Sasquatch]

Installing the mechanism has been a bit of trial and error. I have used the Ratio device to great effect in the past so am sticking with it. The scratch built NE slotted post signal however involves a bit of thinking outside the box.

 

The long actuating wire needs to run up the inside of my hollow post. To achieve this I carved the positioning ribs off from underneath the base and have used strong glue to mount it off center and a bit squiffy to clear the hole in the base!

[Alister_G]

Superb bit of modelling, I really must get on and tackle some signalling for Bakewell.

 

Al.

[Sweven]

Great job on the signal box and the signal so far! Loved the photographs of the signalman in the box at night.

[Sasquatch]

Hi Sweven, I keep meaning to get out there with my camera after dark and get some more night shots. Maybe this evening.

 

Now my hands have healed up after all the gardening etc., the signal received some more attention.

Very fiddly stuff this. Angle crank mounting pins were super glued in place in the pre drilled holes. Washers are cut from fine evergreen tubing and glued over the base of the pins.

Accurate measurements were then taken between these and from the one at the base of the doll to the arm pivot.

The connecting wires were bent up from .45mm brass wire to these measurements. Not happy with the Ratio angle cranks I then proceeded to make my own from .020 plastic strip.Two short lengths of strip were glued together at the ends before drilling and cutting out both cranks at once. This ensured that they were the same.

 

 

Then the tricky bit was putting it all together. After about an hour of loosing my patience  I decided it best be done one connection at a time.  To hold the bends to the cranks and pivots small rings of bell wire insulation were pushed on.

 

 

It all worked but there was a tight spot mid throw. Which I narrowed down to the hole in the floor plank through which the main operating wire passes. Simple solution was to make the hole bigger by trimming the plank with a fine scalpel.

 

Next the spring was mounted to the base  and this too required a bit of tinkering as the signal arm didn't quite go all the way back so I bent the end of the spring.

 

 

Now I was happy with the way it worked a small amount of super glue was placed on the insulation bushes with a tooth pic to stop them ever falling off.

 

More later...

Edited April 24, 2015 by Sasquatch

[Andrew P]

Superb modelling as usual Shaun, really are the BIZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ.

[Jock67B]

Morning (here!) Shaun,

Not only would I worry about taking on that intricacy with my clumsy fingers, but I think I'd have to invest in an Optivisor, just to see the parts - superb miniature engineering mate!

Kind regards,

Jock.

[Sasquatch]

Yes Jock mate, I had my bi-focals on!! Haha haa.

The carpet monster consumed several parts on account of shakiness and my disabled left hand!

It hasn't stopped me cracking on with detailing this, this afternoon with all manner of various bits and bobs. The finial comprises a part from an old Ratio GWR bracket signal and a Peco track pin! The cosmetic operating wheels I found on a Cambrian fret.

Ready for the paint shop me feels.

Edited April 25, 2015 by Sasquatch

[Sasquatch]

For what it was worth I added the bracket bolts from Archers rivet decal sheet.

Then took it up to my barn and hit it with some Krylon white primer. As soon as that's dry I'll reattach the arm and spectacle plate. Then touch in the details with black acrylic paint. Acrylic can be easily removed with hot water if need be!!

[Sasquatch]

Almost done...

 

[Andrew P]

Fan bloomin tastick Shaun, just DONT put your hand, (good one OR bad one) on top of that Signal Final though.

 

How many more have you got to make?

[emt_911]

Fantastic work as always Shaun.

[Jock67B]

WOW!!

Kind regards,

Jock.

[georgeT]

Have to agree with the gang Shaun, EXCELLENT modelling...

[Sasquatch]

Thanks gang! 

Fan bloomin tastick Shaun, just DONT put your hand, (good one OR bad one) on top of that Signal Final though.
 
How many more have you got to make?

Good question Bodgemeister.

There are 4 single posts, 4 ground discs and this one.

[Sasquatch]

Looking at it closely I see only one problem, that is how to make all three arms work. The Ratio system can accommodate two! So I guess I'll have to make my own some how. 

I like the Ratio kit as the ¹/₂" drum is great for mounting to the layout. It also allows the signals to be removed if the need arises! 

 

Oh did I mention that while the layout is apart I intend to build an uncoupling system and install that also.

Maybe the uncoupling mechanism could be utilized to operate the third signal arm!!! 

 

Squatch. pondering over his muesli. 

[Sasquatch]

For the next project I have a pack of two LNER ground signals which I must have brought 25 or more years ago at Model World in Brighton direct from MSE! These are correct for Goathland and it even mentions that in the instructions. If I'm successful I'll get a hold of another kit.

My intention is to get these to work! I'll be utilizing two N gauge Ratio signal remote kits 14V grain of rice bulbs and some icing colouring.

 

It has been a long time since I attempted to solder anything so small and having lost my Carrs fluxes I purchased a hobby solder kit, so here goes.
I started by opening out all the holes in the kit. Then soldered two 14mm lengths of fine wire to the rear of the discs, and filed the fronts flush.

 

I carefully drilled out the lamps so as to accept the tiny bulbs.

After soldering the balance weights to the arm and feeling quite pleased with myself I bent it to shape and it promptly snapped.  
On assembly of the second doll I found the post was too thin to maintain a comfortable working signal  So I turned to some drastic modeling and scratch built two posts.  
Next I discovered to my horror that the 26 gauge brass wire was breaking also.   After a bout of four lettered words   Mrs. S. came to the rescue with her beading kit  , supplying me with some soft 26 gauge wire. It all works and here's the results.

 

Squatch. Hitting the sack and not a minute too soon!

[David Todd]

Looking at it closely I see only one problem, that is how to make all three arms work. The Ratio system can accommodate two! So I guess I'll have to make my own some how. 

I like the Ratio kit as the ¹/₂" drum is great for mounting to the layout. It also allows the signals to be removed if the need arises! 

 

Oh did I mention that while the layout is apart I intend to build an uncoupling system and install that also.

Maybe the uncoupling mechanism could be utilized to operate the third signal arm!!! 

 

Squatch. pondering over his muesli. 

 

I know you like doing things mostly from scratch, but, may these be of use, Canadian Co/Inc. see link.   uncoupling

[Sasquatch]

You were right first time DT! I have all the parts which were salvaged from Avon Park!!

 

Copied from my blog.

 

 

Heath Robinson style uncoupling system.

 

For added interest on Dunster which has limited operating movements I set about making everything work, the signals including two ground dolls, the crossing gates and the possibility of auto uncoupling in the sidings and on the main line. Having employed Hornby uncoupling ramps in the past I knew of their ability to uncouple things when not required. That apart I needed something less conspicuous.

Rising plates was the answer, and operated with Ratio levers like the signals.

 

Firstly a master was hashed up from cut sleepers and cork underlay to represent the permanent way between the rails and this had a box built around it out of which a silicone rubber mould was made. Now I can cast as many uncoupling plates from two part liquid plastic as I need. The master has been retained in case the R.V. rubber mould ever wears out. Although I think a new master with more detail might suit.

 

The system required springing as the weight of the castings alone was not enough to return the plates by gravity. Here comes another entry in my notes for a book I have planned “A Thousand & One Reasons To Carry Zip Ties in Your Pocket”. (I think that’s Cable ties in English English). Half a length of zip tie has just the right amount of tension in it for this purpose.

The design is very simple utilising only a small ply triangle, block of wood, track pins and stuff from general household trash.

 

The plastic tubing comes from cotton buds and I used square type nails from my nailer but any stiff straight wire will do.The last piece of the puzzel is the single connector cut from an electric connector strip which is used as an adjuster.

 

A small piece of MDF is used as a jig to gauge the size of the required hole in the track and for drilling the two holes in the base board consistantly.

Sleepers and underlay are cut out with a Stanly knife and 1/4" chisel.

(these next two pics are from when I installed it on AP).

 

 

Two plastic tubes are used one for the actuating wire and the other as a guide.

 

Things are lined up dry and marked with a pencil then when satisfied hot glued in place.

The Ratio point opperating system makes for a perfect and economic means for opperating.

 

Here is the system in operation on Dunster.

[Sasquatch]

The next one ready for assembly.

It can be seen that I have used the lamp from the MSE kit and two spare parts from an old Ratio kit. The rest is scratch built.

Barely noticeable are the four bolts in the base punched from the rear!

 

[class"66"]

Nice work on those semaphores!!!!!!

[Sasquatch]

You can always tell when the weather is nice here in Oregon because it all goes quiet on this thread.

I couldn't resist placing the new bracket signal on the layout and taking some pictures.

 

And here are a couple of pictures taken down in the village.

 

 

[Anotheran]

Shaun,

 

Those pics all look very good, but the one along the base of the viaduct towards the abbey is stunning. The modelling is fantastic with the grass and woods looking extremely realistic, but your eye for the dramatic composition makes an incredible picture. I really think that's one of your best even though you can't see any rolling stock or track work... just the edge of a brooding tunnel mouth lending some darkness to the drama of the ruin above. Great work!

 

Kind regards, Neil