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Dapol Class 22

DLPG

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Oldddudders

Oldddudders

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I know this is the headcode version and dont want to take the talk of the excellent looking cad off topic, but I come across this shot a few days ago..

But, like the steam locomotive, it doesn't have that disfiguring yellow on the end! Much nicer!

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Trevor H

Trevor H

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Hope you don't mind Dave, I added your front end drawing with several revisions, seems easier than trying to explain.

 

Also be careful when choosing which models to do, some had minor revisions done to the front end around 1964/65, some examples been D6327/28/32/33.

post-6909-0-59088500-1335275201.jpg

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Gwiwer

Gwiwer

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Better late than never but some of us have had a long way to travel!

 

On Sunday I finally set eyes on the 22 for the first time in the flesh and have to say they are absolute beauties. The weathering on the Kernow ones I was able to inspect was also every bit as good as hoped for and had no sign of the 'gridiron' markings which early images suggested might have been the case.

 

Only another six weeks until I can collect mine in person and photograph them on Penhayle Bay :)

 

Excellent work all round chaps.

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tetsudofan

tetsudofan

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Hope you don't mind Dave, I added your front end drawing with several revisions, seems easier than trying to explain.

 

Also be careful when choosing which models to do, some had minor revisions done to the front end around 1964/65, some examples been D6327/28/32/33.

 

....is there a prize for spot the difference?

 

Keith

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Trevor H

Trevor H

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I would explain better with overlays of actual prototype images and go into better detail, but every time I try to save work, all locks up. Meanwhile if you can overlay the two images, the differences are easily identified and will give you an idea of what I'm trying to say.

 

But basically I have moved all the nose furniture at the upper half to correct placement, which was all to low and the centre lamp bracket should be a shorter version than outer ones.

 

Other thing that also needs rectifying that I didn't do on cad image, is the lower discs all need raising, they should be central of bottom plate.

 

Trevor

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Charlie

Charlie

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I'm no expert Dave, but wasn't there a discussion about how the two areas I've ringed on the image below being the same colour as the nose? Or is that just to show definition on the CAD?

post-9459-0-56168100-1335396026.jpg

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7013

7013

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Just received my Weathered CL22 from Kernow, ordered Tuesday morning, arrived Wednesday lunchtime, bloody good service from Cornwall to Oxfordshire!

Anyway took D6323 to my club and ran it for 45mins analogue in each direction. At home I inserted decoder (the excellent TCS 21pin EUS 621). Programmed it with the same settings as my unweathered D6331 which I bought at Warley and has been running for some months now. Put both locos on track and set them off at a gentle trot one a couple of inches behind the other. They remained the same distance apart for circuit after circuit. If that isn't a stunning loco then I do not know what is. Looking forward to the Kernow 'Warship' which I assume has the same motor set up. This truly is a superb locomotive,and that from someone who last bought a diesel loco about ten years ago!

Now those little divils at Dapol are bringing out the disc headcode version, so thats another must have CL 22.

Edited by 7013
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craigwelsh

craigwelsh

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Could somebody tell me why I wanted one? Not exactly prevalent in South Wales or indeed the bit of Castleton the layout its sitting on is based in!

 

Ah well, it was cheap, I guess a Whitecliffe Quarry scene maybe with the hoppers in tow.

 

Still need to motorise it though and stick some springy bogies in P4 under it before its much use though. Weathering is superb I must say!

 

post-174-0-23718100-1336076392_thumb.jpg

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Captain Kernow

Captain Kernow

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Here's another YouTube piece:

 

However, I've decided that I really, really don't like the add-on valences. One of mine won't stay on, and another nearly had it's tab broken off due to being a force-fit.

 

Those that do stay on hang all irregularly, which isn't what the prototype photos show.

 

I do wonder how many modellers will depict their locos with some of the valences missing. I know that some were like that in their decrepitude, but the vast majority of photos seem to show them all intact.

 

The only engineering solution that will now satisfy me is to glue them all in place on the body, which will require the removal of the body and it's separation from the wiring.

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Jack

Jack

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However, I've decided that I really, really don't like the add-on valences. One of mine won't stay on, and another nearly had it's tab broken off due to being a force-fit.

...

I do wonder how many modellers will depict their locos with some of the valences missing. I know that some were like that in their decrepitude, but the vast majority of photos seem to show them all intact.

 

Mine did break. Thankfully Dapol Customer Service is very good and replacements were sourced without any problems.

 

Maybe the tooling could be modified to include the valances on the body?

Edited by Jack
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Captain Kernow

Captain Kernow

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Maybe the tooling could be modified to include the valances on the body?

I think that would be a positive step forward, perhaps with a thin mould line option to allow modellers to represent locos which had lost a valence or two, should they wish?

 

Anyway, getting the body off went better than I could have hoped, it literally came off in my hand! The valences then all fell out, as they are designed to do, in fairness.

 

I was able to remove each cab interior with a little gentle prying apart - they seem to be fixed in with a very weak solvent glue or perhaps just paint, any rate, a little flexing of the body side next to the cab interior, and some gentle prising with a long-handled fine screwdriver in the top/inside part of the roof was enough to remove both cab units.

 

Andy Y mentioned the holes for the horns in the front ends, which have been erroneously glazed by Dapol in an earlier post, suggesting that the glazing could be simply pushed back in to create a 'hollow' hole. Well, not likely, I'm afraid, the tiny circular glazing units are really heavily glued in, in relationship to their mass. Drilling out is fraught, so I may just paint the outside of the glazing on mine matt black.

 

Having removed the cab units, this makes placing headcodes inside the headcode box glazing easy - I'm using some spare headcodes from a Heljan Hymek, as it happens.

 

Now we come to the permanent fixing of the valences. I propose to remove the fixing lugs on the chassis block (which appear to be plastic), and glue the valences permanently to the loco body. The plastic used seems to accept MekPak OK.

 

However, if you simply glue the outer faces of the fixing lugs attached to each valence moulding to the corresponding inner face of the loco body shell, the valence will stick out too far, so I am planning to insert a sliver of 10 thou plasticard, to ensure that the valences are in line with the rest of the loco body, as per this diagram:

 

post-57-0-55635600-1336164769.jpg

 

Edit - I meant to add that the rivets around the windows came off nice and cleanly using a brand new, very sharp No.10 curved Swann Morton blade.

Edited by Captain Kernow
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SRman

SRman

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I've been meaning to ask with regards to these lovely Kernow weathered jobs - are the clip-on valences weathered to match?

 

Yes, they are weathered to match. I used some Black-Tac to stick the valances in place while still allowing me to remove them or change my mind. Currently, I am running D6315 with one panel missing and one modified to stick out at a slight angle, as evident in quite a few photos of class members.

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217 RIVER FLESK

217 RIVER FLESK

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Hi guys,

 

some changes to the cad/cam for thoughts.

 

cheers

Dave

Hi Dave,

 

Finally got round to having a look at a few more pics & comparing them with your CAD image, can I make the following comments:

1) You show the clip that holds open the top centre disc at '4:30', where as the pics that I've come across seem to show the clip at '3:00' http://railway-photography.smugmug.com/Class21-28/Class-22/16807189_jqZ55W#!i=1340678249&k=DhBPTz5&lb=1&s=A

2) I guess this really does fall under 'rivet counting', but there appears to be a rivet head located above each of the oblong horn(?) grilles, whilst fine, as the rivets on the window frames are replicated, is there any reason why these can't be included?

3) How will the models arrive in their boxes? I'm assuming that they'll arrive without any discs fitted & then it will be down to the end user to either fit 'open' or 'closed' discs? What detail if any will be represented behibnd the discs, as sometimes the top centre disc was folded over to the right & not the left as one would have expected. http://www.railblue.com/pages/In%20Depth/class_22_header.htm (See pics of D6319 & D6309)

4) Finally will the discs be illuminated & if so, how? Will all be lit when the model travels forward & only if an 'open' disc with a hole is fitted will any light be able to be viewed through the open hole?

5) Still don't think that the red tail light looks quite right yet - still requires stretching in the vertical direction??

 

Cheers, from what must seem a very picky Mike C

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