Jinty's WB for 7mm

[muddys-blues]

Very nice Jints, there are a few nice additions there, the signals and rodding look superb.

 

Best regards

Craig

[North Eastern]

A plesent visit from JF today and a couple of my signals are now up and running. Thanks Jon.

 

I thought I'd put a short video together showing a N.E. G5 that I've just fitted sound to.

 

 

Jinty

Nice to see some decent traction on the WR, you just need a J25 to recreate the transfer of some J25 to the GWR during the war.

 

Looking forward to getting the G5's back and running on Craster at Model Rail Scotland.

 

Regards

 

Chris

[Trigger123]

Hi there looking for some help please I've lost my rather old soft slaters Allen key and wish to purchase a new one that will last a bit longer but I don't know the size can anybody please tell me mm or inches

[Jintyman]

Hi there looking for some help please I've lost my rather old soft slaters Allen key and wish to purchase a new one that will last a bit longer but I don't know the size can anybody please tell me mm or inches

 

 

Hi there,

 

You'd of probably been better putting this in the Questions & Help part of the forum, but I've recently purchased a couple of decent 1.3mm hex screwdrivers that are for the Slaters hex (Allen) screws, from RS Components @  £4.31 each and I think FREE P&P.

 

Here is a link:   https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/screwdrivers/1231865/

 

Hope that helps

 

Jinty

[2ManySpams]

I'll try, although, I generally just go as the mood/rhythm takes me, and if what I'm doing looks good in my eyes, I just carry on!!!

 

Obviously I've done some alterations before I even touched it with paints and weathering bits and bobs.

Once they've been done, I start with Testors Dullcote all over the body to seal the transfers and the other bits and bobs. Once that's nice and dry, I start with some panel line washes and build up to enamel washes. I'm using AK Interactive stuff quite a bit at the moment as I find it's very good, and it's very workable with White Spirit. On this one I've used Humbrol white weathering powder and brushed it downwards into cracks, corners, etc, then some clean white spirit on a brush soaked in to hold it in place. Then some AK Interactive Ship Salt Stains to create some of the white streaking. I then use Testors again, and this time over the windows too, which I then get some white spirit on a cotton bud and remove the Testors off the glazing, usually in the shape of the wiper track.

Once the Testors is dry, I go over very gently in this case, with some very watered down frame dirt and black with the airbrush and let it all dry.

Once dry I apply fuel stains and grease washes to the necessary bits and pieces and then allow top go off .

 

I hope that gives some idea what I get up to with on the weathering front. As I said earlier, I do play a lot by ear and go with the flow.

 

Jinty

 

 

PS:

 

Here are a Before and after for comparison:

 

 

 

WB 164.jpg

 

 

WB 239.jpg

Obviously a different loco, the connecting rods are in a different place.

[Simond]

The Slaters screws are actually imperial, the sizes are 50 thou for the normal ones and 35 thou for the flycrank versions. Wera make screwdrivers for both, I purchased them about 6 months back, and very happy with them. The Slaters ones appear to be made from cast Dairylea.

 

1.3mm is 51.1 thou, and if you have already worn screws, might actually be a better choice, but in theory, it should be either very very tight, or won’t fit.

 

I’m guessing from David’s reply that it does!

 

Best

Simon

[Dmudriver]

Glad to see you've got the signal(s) working, Jinty.   It always felt a bit like "squeaky bum time" when you were passing it at danger previously!!!!

 

I always hated doing it, even after permission from the signalman or with a bit of paper in my hand.  A pilotman was a bit more comforting!!

 

Rod

[Focalplane]

Re Slaters’ allen key. I think it is purposefully soft. Just don’t put too much torque on it. I have used allen keys that are tougher and they strip the hexagon in the axle nut.

 

Paul

[Jintyman]

1.3mm is 51.1 thou, and if you have already worn screws, might actually be a better choice, but in theory, it should be either very very tight, or won’t fit.

 

I’m guessing from David’s reply that it does!

 

Best

Simon

 

 

2lb lump hammer, half swing with a slight vergence to the right to take into account the curvature of the Earth (Which I thought was flat till I saw that Tesla in space!!!!! ).

 

The 1.3 fits all the Slaters grub screws I've tried up to now (Granted a little stiff), but they have always been on used Allen screws. I will have to find a new one  in my JLTRT 2251 kit and report back!!! (A good excuse to get it down out of the wardrobe!!)

 

 

Jinty

Edited February 18, 2018 by Jintyman

[railwayrod]

Nice video Jinty.

 

Glad to see the signals working especially with the bounce. Jon's work is extremely good and I am very pleased with mine on Ramchester. I assume you have a Megapoints controller with yours.

 

Nice work on the G5 - looks and sounds great.

 

Rod

[Jintyman]

Nice video Jinty.

 

Glad to see the signals working especially with the bounce. Jon's work is extremely good and I am very pleased with mine on Ramchester. I assume you have a Megapoints controller with yours.

 

Nice work on the G5 - looks and sounds great.

 

Rod

 

 

Hi Rod,

 

Thanks, yes Jon does a superb job with the signals.

Yes I have a Megapoints board now to drive them.

Jon showed me how to set up the board for the signals so now I'll be able to get the two most important ones done once the point rodding and platforms are in place.

 

Next up on the video log is a certain class 20!!!!

 

Jinty

[Jintyman]

Good evening people, not much done today as I had an unexpected issue.

But at least some workbench work has been done later this afternoon.

 

I mentioned earlier that I was dealing with a class 20. Well I've done the sound install and I;'ve made quite a bit of a change to the loco inside, and fitted a large bass reflex speaker of my own at one end.

Next up is the lighting circuits and a light for the cab. Then it's on with the weathering.

 

Here is a video to show the testing of the sound file, which is another by Paul Chetter, now available through Digitrains as an Active Drive sound project with Speed Lock.

 

 

 

 

Jinty

[muddys-blues]

Very good Jints ............ but that Selwyn the Signalman needs to be given a warning, he is useless, he is always forgetting to drop that danger signal for these locos 

 

Craig.

[Jintyman]

Very good Jints ............ but that Selwyn the Signalman needs to be given a warning, he is useless, he is always forgetting to drop that danger signal for these locos 

 

Craig.

 

He was a bit slow first time, but on the ball the second!!!

And his name is Billy, it's in the credits!!!

 

Jinty

[muddys-blues]

Billy ? Is that short for “William ap Gwyndaf Williams” ?

 

Craig

[coachmann]

Billy ? Is that short for “William ap Gwyndaf Williams” ?

No, his real name was Cledwyn Thomas Bach, but he had eight cousins called Cledwyn Thomas Bach and so they called him Billy....

[Andrew P]

Sound very good Jints, The weathering should be interesting to see.

[Trigger123]

Thank you to everyone who has gave their input to my problem with my Allen key thank you all

[gismorail]

Excellent couple of video's like the Class 20 sound project and the G5 looks / sounds very good and has been well built ......I presume it's a Connoisseur Kit which I'm told are excellent .... See the demolition team has been busy removing the platforms 

[Jintyman]

Excellent couple of video's like the Class 20 sound project and the G5 looks / sounds very good and has been well built ......I presume it's a Connoisseur Kit which I'm told are excellent .... See the demolition team has been busy removing the platforms 

 

 

Hi Gismorail,

 

Yes the kit is a Connoisseur kit, totally full of lead (Glued in!!!) in the boiler, and tanks, so I had to be a bit imaginative with the speaker position, but just got it in.

 

Jinty

[railwayrod]

Hi Jinty.

 

The class 20 (or as Chaz insists on calling It A Type 1) sounds great. Cant wait to see it in a weathered state. The sound is excellent and I really do like the way you do your videos.

 

Rod

[Andrew P]

Hi David, Just a quick thanks for supplying the lovely twin speakers for my Minerva Pannier, superb, cheers.

 

Also the Depot lights for Kings Moreton.

[Jintyman]

Ok, so not a wonderful amount done this last week, except to tidy up a bit in the garage and get my workbench looking a bit more organised.

 

I decided to tidy up my weathering bench, and here is a picture of it tidy for once, it won't stay like that for long!!!!!

 

 

 

 

Another little job that I wanted to get done was the Dapol Jinty's chimney.

About the only thing that craws me about the Dapol Jinty is the ridge that is one third up the chimney, that shouldn't be there.

I had a go at filling the ridge, but to no avail. So I purchased a replacement from Laurie Griffin to put it right.

 

Here is the Jinty with the original chimney cut off, the area filed and sanded down and the Laurie Griffin replacement glued in place.

 

 

 

 

THen it was primered and repainted with Vallejo acrylic paint through the airbrush.

And here it is ready for weathering, whenever that will be.............

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Another little job was the Class 20 for Ramchester.

Now it's all weathered and the sound was shown in the video above. Here are a few photos of the finished loco, not as dirty as some I've done, as the class 20 would of been fairly young at this point in its life, so not quite as dirty as some, especially the rusting steam locos that would be working along side it.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

More very soon

 

Jinty

[Andrew P]

Excellent work Jints, I love the weathering on the 20 mate, superb.

[coachmann]

If I ever get a Jinty, I will probably use Loktite as a filler in the joint(?) initially, and sand it down. Otherwise, thanks for the info on the brass chimney. It looks neat.