“Highland Sulzers” - Inverness TMD in the 80's - P4

[Mark Forrest]

Looks like there is a McRat floating in your beer

[Indomitable026]

Looks like there is a McRat floating in your beer

 

Anything can happen from now-on

 

In fact that's not even mine, It needs to go back to Mr Mallard who lent it to us for 'Black Country Blues'..

[Indomitable026]

Anything can happen from now-on

 

In fact that's not even mine, It needs to go back to Mr Mallard who lent it to us for 'Black Country Blues'..

 

Oh no hang on, that's my class 26...

 

See what I mean...

 

At this point I stop track laying.

[2ManySpams]

Pub time!

[FPH 603]

Funny you should say that.

 

They've built these things and they don't go as fast as the HSTs they're replacing...

Nor do they have the same class and glamour as the HST either. I travelled on a HST once... It was like a childhood dream come true. I thought we were supposed to be going by Trans-Pennine Express! Point is I'd pick a HST over that 'caterpillar' any day.

[Indomitable026]

I'm considering the need for a joggle in the straight stock rail, my question is are there any dimensions I should be working to? 

 

For example on the sketch below, which is meant to be a vice from above, with two plates in putting a joggle in to the rail. What thickness plates should I use and how far apart do the plates need to be?

 

 

Do I even need to put a joggle in the straight Stock?

 

Peoples thoughts would be appreciated.

[Enterprisingwestern]

I'm considering the need for a joggle in the straight stock rail, my question is are there any dimensions I should be working to? 

 

For example on the sketch below, which is meant to be a vice from above, with two plates in putting a joggle in to the rail. What thickness plates should I use and how far apart do the plates need to be?

 

track-construction21.jpg

 

Do I even need to put a joggle in the straight Stock?

 

Peoples thoughts would be appreciated.

 

You need an expert.

.

.

.

.

.

.

 

You're stuffed.

 

Mike.

[Indomitable026]

You need an expert.

.

.

.

.

.

.

 

You're stuffed.

 

Mike.

 

You get more helpful as the years go on.

[Enterprisingwestern]

You get more helpful as the years go on.

 

Funny that, others have noticed too.

 

Mike.

[Indomitable026]

Funny that, others have noticed too.

 

Mike.

 

Do you 'Joggle' or not?

[Mark Forrest]

I don't put a joggle in my stock rails, don't think it is common in "modern" point work.

 

Do put a slight undercut on the stock rail though; nothing more than a few passes with a file (and then a few more, if it's steel rail). Seems to work for me (most of the time).

[Enterprisingwestern]

Do you 'Joggle' or not?

 

Personally, no.

Whether it's protoypical or not I don't know.

I "think" the Great Waste of Rails was the primary joggler, but what other railways and regions did, or whether things have moved on in recent times, yet again, I don't know.

Hence my suggestion of the need for an expert.

 

Mike.

[2ManySpams]

I'm considering the need for a joggle in the straight stock rail, my question is are there any dimensions I should be working to? 

 

For example on the sketch below, which is meant to be a vice from above, with two plates in putting a joggle in to the rail. What thickness plates should I use and how far apart do the plates need to be?

 

track-construction21.jpg

 

Do I even need to put a joggle in the straight Stock?

 

Peoples thoughts would be appreciated.

 

You're not modelling Great Western are you?

[Indomitable026]

You're not modelling Great Western are you?

No

[Ian Smeeton]

10 thou is used in 2mm scale.

 

Personally I don't, but how does your stock run through what you have done so far?

 

Regards

 

Ian

[Indomitable026]

10 thou is used in 2mm scale.

 

Personally I don't, but how does your stock run through what you have done so far?

 

Regards

 

Ian

I’ve not tried it as it’s not that far advanced.

 

I was just thinking of getting the blades to sit further in that’s all.

 

I think I will try without as that seams to be the consensus and see how we get on.

[Regularity]

The correct answer is that it depends on your design of switch blades, the short answer for you is no.

 

Joggling is usual for straight-cut blades, but you are unlikely to have them. A few pre-group turnouts remained at the back of obscure goods yards on the Highland even in the seventies, but that would be where you would find them: anywhere without a need to upgrade them due to very little traffic at very low speed. If there are interlaced sleepers rather than full length timbers under the turnout, then it is an old HR turnout which would have had straight cut blades.

 

The LMS, and BR in your area of modelling, used semi-curved blades, and these have a fine point on the blades, as well as a slightly rounded tip at the top of the blade, so that there was no blunt square point to shock the wheel as it struck the tip. There was no joggle, but the turnout road stock rail had a small set, a slight twist to start its divergence, set slightly ahead of the blade, just enough that when set for the main route, there was no bump for the wheelset as it moved forward. The set also ensures there is no tight-to-gauge problem on the turnout route.

 

The way to test if you point blades are tapered into a fine enough point is to prod the end into your finger. If you don’t draw blood, it’s too blunt...

 

Hope that helps.

[Indomitable026]

The correct answer is that it depends on your design of switch blades, the short answer for you is no.

Joggling is usual for straight-cut blades, but you are unlikely to have them. A few pre-group turnouts remained at the back of obscure goods yards on the Highland even in the seventies, but that would be where you would find them: anywhere without a need to upgrade them due to very little traffic at very low speed. If there are interlaced sleepers rather than full length timbers under the turnout, then it is an old HR turnout which would have had straight cut blades.

The LMS, and BR in your area of modelling, used semi-curved blades, and these have a fine point on the blades, as well as a slightly rounded tip at the top of the blade, so that there was no blunt square point to shock the wheel as it struck the tip. There was no joggle, but the turnout road stock rail had a small set, a slight twist to start its divergence, set slightly ahead of the blade, just enough that when set for the main route, there was no bump for the wheelset as it moved forward. The set also ensures there is no tight-to-gauge problem on the turnout route.

The way to test if you point blades are tapered into a fine enough point is to prod the end into your finger. If you don’t draw blood, it’s too blunt...

Hope that helps.

Thank you for your wisdom on this matter.

 

Joggling is now out of my mind.

[Regularity]

It’s not wisdom.

It’s knowledge: open to anyone who wants to find out about it, nothing special, although the therapy for being this obsessive can be expensive.

(And even if you did joggle, it would only be a few thousandths of an inch.)

[martin_wynne]

Copied from the Templot web site:
_________________________________

These notes apply to UK-pattern bullhead track only.

Setting the Curved Stock Rail :

The diagram below shows the position of the set (bend) in the turnout-side (TS) stock rail, which matches the planing angle on the switch blades and is needed to ensure a correct track gauge through the turnout road of the switch. Templot puts a mark across the curved stock rail at the position of the set, as shown below (for a left-hand switch).



In Templot the set is slightly in advance of the tip of the opposite blade, as shown, and in order to ensure that the geometry works correctly the TP peg position (CTRL-2) is in advance of the blade tip by half this amount.

The diagram shows the set mark at the minimum amount of set advance. There is no harm in having a little more in models to help protect the mating blade tip from wheel damage. However, an excessive set advance should be avoided as this can cause a knock to the wheels of trailing traffic. Often for facing traffic, and on all GWR switches, the set is replaced with a joggle.

Undercut Switch Blades :

The first diagram below shows the left-hand stock rail and switch blade for a left-hand undercut pattern switch with a plain unjoggled stock rail. This is the type of blade planing most often modelled because it requires only a plain set in one stock rail.

A set (bend) is put in the turnout-side (TS) stock rail at the toe of the switch (blade tip) to match the planing angle on the switch blade.

The switch blade is planed (machined) to a sharp tip, and profiled down below the top of the stock rail to fit under the head of the stock rail (undercut). This is in order to have sufficient strength at the tip.

Such a blade acts only as a guide to the wheel flanges for the first part of its length and does not actually support the weight of wheels running onto it until they have reached some way along it. Undercut switches can often be identified in photographs because the shiny top of the open blade stops some way short of the tip.







Here are some photos of an undercut switch. You can see from the shiny marks on the top of the blade that it starts to take some part of the wheel load at about the position of the second stretcher bar. Up until that point it is simply guiding the wheel flange, and is dull on top:





You can see that the tip is very thin, and if continued up to the top of the stock rail it would be a knife edge.

The way to model this is to do the final shaping with fine abrasive paper ("Wet-or-Dry" paper from car shops), with the blade clamped against the stock rail.

Notice also a seldom-modelled but quite prominent feature, the steel sole plate on the toe timber. It is used to hold the toe to gauge, so that the stretcher drive and detection rods can be accurately set. Usually there are strips welded on the ends of the sole plate to bear against the chair bases (just visible under the muck on the lower photo), or the ends of the plate are turned up as a forging for the same purpose. In the photos there is an insulated joint in the sole plate because this track is track-circuited.

Straightcut Switch Blades with Joggled Stock Rails :

When a more robust switch is needed, both of the switch stock rails are joggled outwards by a small amount to create a housing for the switch blade tips and so protect them from wheel damage. This next diagram below shows this alternative straightcut pattern switch with a joggled stock rail.



Instead of a plain set in the stock rail at B, it is joggled sideways between positions A and C, with the maximum deflection from its previous unjoggled alignment being at the blade tip position B. In bullhead track the joggled section is always created by bending the rail rather than by machining a notch in it.

The switch blade is planed to a blunt tip (straightcut), to a thickness corresponding to the amount of joggle, which has been exaggerated in this diagram for clarity. Apart from a rounded corner at the tip the blade is the full height of the stock rail and plays its part in supporting the wheels along its full length. A straightcut switch can often be identified in photographs by showing a shiny top on the open blade all the way to the tip.



In defining a joggled switch, two dimensions are needed. The joggle depth (sideways deflection) at B, and the joggle return length in front of the blade tip between positions A and B, in which the rail returns to its normal alignment. (The length between B and C always corresponds to the planing length for the switch blade). These dimensions need to be entered when creating a custom joggled switch in Templot.

Having entered joggle dimensions for your custom switch, you can choose whether to actually use the joggles for an individual template by means of the joggled stock rails option tickbox.



Here is a photo of a GWR joggled switch with straightcut planing. Notice the thicker more robust nature of the blade tip, and that it is full height and shiny all the way to the tip. Notice also that the depth of joggle in the stock rail is very small in relation to the rail width. It is not easy to create such a joggle in models.



Prototype notes:

REA and straight loose-heel switches can be either joggled or not - normally joggled switches are used only in facing positions on running lines. In trailing positions there is a danger of rough running when wheels hit the joggle return length on the open switch blade side, most severely when the main-road is curved. However, all GWR and BR(WR) switches are joggled.

For REA switches the joggle depth is 3/8" (0.375 inches) and the joggle return length is 6 inches. For older pattern straight loose-heel switches these dimensions vary, but are usually similar.
For GWR old-pattern switches the joggle depth is 3/8" (0.375 inches) and the joggle return length is 4 inches. The later GWR and BR(WR) curved flexible switches have a less severe joggle, the joggle depth is 1/4" (0.250 inches) and the joggle return length is 6 inches.

These joggle depths are barely perceptible in the smaller model scales. A 1/4" joggle is only 3 thou (0.003 inches) (0.08 mm) in 4mm/ft scale. Some modellers prefer a more pronounced joggle, and Templot provides for this with the generator > overscale joggles menu option, which creates a joggle depth of 3/4" (scale).

Visitors to the Severn Valley Railway steam heritage line in Kidderminster UK can very easily observe the difference between joggled and unjoggled switches. In platform 1 the engine release turnout at the buffer stops has an REA semi-curved flexible switch with undercut-pattern switch blades (no joggle). In platform 2 the engine release turnout has a GWR curved flexible switch with straightcut-pattern blades and joggled stock rails. The very much more robust nature of the blade tips in the latter case is very evident.
___________________________________

regards,

 

Martin.

[Indomitable026]

Copied from the Templot web site:

_________________________________These notes apply to UK-pattern bullhead track only.Setting the Curved Stock Rail :

The diagram below shows the position of the set (bend) in the turnout-side (TS) stock rail, which matches the planing angle on the switch blades and is needed to ensure a correct track gauge through the turnout road of the switch. Templot puts a mark across the curved stock rail at the position of the set, as shown below (for a left-hand switch).

In Templot the set is slightly in advance of the tip of the opposite blade, as shown, and in order to ensure that the geometry works correctly the TP peg position (CTRL-2) is in advance of the blade tip by half this amount.

The diagram shows the set mark at the minimum amount of set advance. There is no harm in having a little more in models to help protect the mating blade tip from wheel damage. However, an excessive set advance should be avoided as this can cause a knock to the wheels of trailing traffic. Often for facing traffic, and on all GWR switches, the set is replaced with a joggle.Undercut Switch Blades :

The first diagram below shows the left-hand stock rail and switch blade for a left-hand undercut pattern switch with a plain unjoggled stock rail. This is the type of blade planing most often modelled because it requires only a plain set in one stock rail.

A set (bend) is put in the turnout-side (TS) stock rail at the toe of the switch (blade tip) to match the planing angle on the switch blade.

The switch blade is planed (machined) to a sharp tip, and profiled down below the top of the stock rail to fit under the head of the stock rail (undercut). This is in order to have sufficient strength at the tip.

Such a blade acts only as a guide to the wheel flanges for the first part of its length and does not actually support the weight of wheels running onto it until they have reached some way along it. Undercut switches can often be identified in photographs because the shiny top of the open blade stops some way short of the tip.

Here are some photos of an undercut switch. You can see from the shiny marks on the top of the blade that it starts to take some part of the wheel load at about the position of the second stretcher bar. Up until that point it is simply guiding the wheel flange, and is dull on top:

You can see that the tip is very thin, and if continued up to the top of the stock rail it would be a knife edge.

The way to model this is to do the final shaping with fine abrasive paper ("Wet-or-Dry" paper from car shops), with the blade clamped against the stock rail.

Notice also a seldom-modelled but quite prominent feature, the steel sole plate on the toe timber. It is used to hold the toe to gauge, so that the stretcher drive and detection rods can be accurately set. Usually there are strips welded on the ends of the sole plate to bear against the chair bases (just visible under the muck on the lower photo), or the ends of the plate are turned up as a forging for the same purpose. In the photos there is an insulated joint in the sole plate because this track is track-circuited.Straightcut Switch Blades with Joggled Stock Rails :

When a more robust switch is needed, both of the switch stock rails are joggled outwards by a small amount to create a housing for the switch blade tips and so protect them from wheel damage. This next diagram below shows this alternative straightcut pattern switch with a joggled stock rail.

Instead of a plain set in the stock rail at B, it is joggled sideways between positions A and C, with the maximum deflection from its previous unjoggled alignment being at the blade tip position B. In bullhead track the joggled section is always created by bending the rail rather than by machining a notch in it.

The switch blade is planed to a blunt tip (straightcut), to a thickness corresponding to the amount of joggle, which has been exaggerated in this diagram for clarity. Apart from a rounded corner at the tip the blade is the full height of the stock rail and plays its part in supporting the wheels along its full length. A straightcut switch can often be identified in photographs by showing a shiny top on the open blade all the way to the tip.

In defining a joggled switch, two dimensions are needed. The joggle depth (sideways deflection) at B, and the joggle return length in front of the blade tip between positions A and B, in which the rail returns to its normal alignment. (The length between B and C always corresponds to the planing length for the switch blade). These dimensions need to be entered when creating a custom joggled switch in Templot.

Having entered joggle dimensions for your custom switch, you can choose whether to actually use the joggles for an individual template by means of the joggled stock rails option tickbox.

Here is a photo of a GWR joggled switch with straightcut planing. Notice the thicker more robust nature of the blade tip, and that it is full height and shiny all the way to the tip. Notice also that the depth of joggle in the stock rail is very small in relation to the rail width. It is not easy to create such a joggle in models.

Prototype notes:

REA and straight loose-heel switches can be either joggled or not - normally joggled switches are used only in facing positions on running lines. In trailing positions there is a danger of rough running when wheels hit the joggle return length on the open switch blade side, most severely when the main-road is curved. However, all GWR and BR(WR) switches are joggled.

For REA switches the joggle depth is 3/8" (0.375 inches) and the joggle return length is 6 inches. For older pattern straight loose-heel switches these dimensions vary, but are usually similar.

For GWR old-pattern switches the joggle depth is 3/8" (0.375 inches) and the joggle return length is 4 inches. The later GWR and BR(WR) curved flexible switches have a less severe joggle, the joggle depth is 1/4" (0.250 inches) and the joggle return length is 6 inches.

These joggle depths are barely perceptible in the smaller model scales. A 1/4" joggle is only 3 thou (0.003 inches) (0.08 mm) in 4mm/ft scale. Some modellers prefer a more pronounced joggle, and Templot provides for this with the generator > overscale joggles menu option, which creates a joggle depth of 3/4" (scale).

Visitors to the Severn Valley Railway steam heritage line in Kidderminster UK can very easily observe the difference between joggled and unjoggled switches. In platform 1 the engine release turnout at the buffer stops has an REA semi-curved flexible switch with undercut-pattern switch blades (no joggle). In platform 2 the engine release turnout has a GWR curved flexible switch with straightcut-pattern blades and joggled stock rails. The very much more robust nature of the blade tips in the latter case is very evident.

___________________________________

regards,

 

Martin.

Martin, thank you so much for taking the time to put together such a comprehensive explanation.

 

The drawings and diagrams are invaluable for me as I’m a visual person, I’m indebted to you.

 

Cheers.

[Regularity]

Martin, thank you so much for taking the time to put together such a comprehensive explanation.

The drawings and diagrams are invaluable for me as I’m a visual person, I’m indebted to you.

Cheers.

Just to be cheeky, you do know that was already on the Templot site, don’t you, and “all” he had to do was copy it over?

 

I raise this as a serious point: the site is a phenomenal resource, and well worth visiting even if you don’t use Templot.

It is wonderful to have so much information and reference resource in a single place - what Martin has copied over here is just the tip of the tip of the iceberg.

 

Remember: visit Templot.com

[Indomitable026]

Just to be cheeky, you do know that was already on the Templot site, don’t you, and “all” he had to do was copy it over?

I raise this as a serious point: the site is a phenomenal resource, and well worth visiting even if you don’t use Templot.

It is wonderful to have so much information and reference resource in a single place - what Martin has copied over here is just the tip of the tip of the iceberg.

Remember: visit Templot.com

Yes - thank you, I’m guessing Martin put it together at some point.

 

As you say a great resource, just unfortunate I don’t have the CAD skills to drive it.

[Regularity]

It’s a mistake to view Templot as something requiring CAD skills, for it is unlike such packages.

 

Think of it as a computerised version of, say, a piece of wall lining paper, on which you are going to move some templates about. Because it is on a computer screen, you can zoom in and out and the lining paper could be of infinite size, but we will pretend that it is of a size to suit your layout.

 

Now, if you were working on the piece of paper, you would maybe use a thin wooden lath or some flex track to get an idea of how you wanted things to look, and once you have that first alignment sorted (we will assume a gentle curve) you pin your guide down, and draw some lines to represent the rails. You now decide that there will be a turnout somewhere along this alignment, and you decide it will be a B6 or whatever, so you move it about until you feel it is about the right place, and you make a couple of marks on the paper to show where the crossing vee and point blades will be, and then you cut some slits into the template to allow it to curve, and stick it down on the rail lines you have drawn, using the marker points you just made as a guide for alignment. You then proceed by adding more track lines and turnouts, etc, maybe locating the next turnout on the turnout road exit for the one you have just laid, carefully using your eye to align things.

I’m going to leave it here, as a gentle curve to the left, as you come into the scene, with a B6 LH turnout branching off into a B6 wye.

You build the track, using flexible lengths for the plain line, and your turnouts are built in place on the layout, on top of the templates.

Then you come to run something, and this is where the problems start...

If you have access to Martin Goodall’s wonderful track planning article in MRJ issue 71, you will be aware that you cannot simply take slices out of a paper turnout template and lay it on a curve without fouling up some of the geometry. In this case, the turnout curve is too sharp for some long wheelbase locomotives, as of course the radius became tighter when the LH turnout was put on a LH curve. Also, you find that the second turnout isn’t quite properly aligned to the turnout exit of the first turnout, which also causes problems with the running of your biggest loco - and the look of how everything else jolts itself. You decide that this P4 lark is too difficult, and revert to EM/00 or take up another hobby.

 

Same plan/idea, generated in Templot, proceeds as follows.

You get Templot to draw a rectangle to match your baseboard size. You create a new template of plain track, with a LH curve. You move it around using the F7 function (shift) until the datum (reference) end is where you want it to be (as you might put a drawing pin into a piece of plain track to peg it down), and press the zero key to make sure you have the template pegged at the right place. By using a combination of F6 (alter the curve radius) and F8 (rotate about the peg) you can create the gentle curve you are looking for. At this point, you could save this template to the background (just like drawing the rail lines), but you don’t have to, as you can insert a turnout into this template (Ctrl-I) and the default will be a B6. In fact, the default template is this. If you get a RH turnout, you use Ctrl-x to swap that over (Ctrl-h changes the hand of the curve) and you will be able to see from the information box what the minimum radius is - in fact, you can set your value for minimum radius, so that if you go below it, the radius is reported in red. Oh dear, you say, for this radius is less than you want, so you press F5 and alter the crossing angle, say to 1:6.5, and you notice that the radius is now acceptable. You can position this turnout anywhere you like along the template by pressing F9 (roam along template) clicking the mouse to activate it, and moving the mouse left or right, and clicking to de-activate it. Whilst doing this, you notice that the sleepers as well as the timbers are displayed, and they include closer spacing for rail joints. Once happy with what you gave, you use Ctrl-v to save this temp,are to the background, which is the same as drawing it on your paper, except that you can at anytime delete it.

Saving one template usually generates a new one exactly the same, but active, an this is OK for us as we want another turnout, but this time we want to have a LH turnout on a RH curve, so we use Ctrl-h to swap the turnout over, and Ctrl-x to reverse the turnout handedness. But this time we use F5 to bring it back to a crossing vee of 1:6. What we want to do, is attach the switch end of this to the turnout road of the other. Luckily this is quick and easy.

Using F3, we shorten the turnout approach to zero with the mouse, and then we click on the template below and use the menu options which appear to join our active template onto the turnout exit peg on the template below - we notice that this has a peg identified as 6, for future reference. The templates are joined and aligned. We can use F6 to adjust our curve to suit out needs (there are further options for things like reverse curves, but not now) and F4 got length, and we finish off with shift-F7 to create a turnout road from the current template (which us automatically stored to the background) which we can again adjust to suit our needs before pressing Ctrl-v to save it.

 

We can save the file, and print it. We can choose then to build the turnouts on a sub-base, so that we can fine tune them before installation or simply stick the templates straight down onto the baseboard, secure in the knowledge that we haven’t compromised our minimum radius requirements, and that the two turnouts are correctly aligned. We also gave a guide for cutting the sleeper base of the flex track to represent the closer spacing at rail joints, or we may even lay them individually.

 

We carry on with the hobby, happy.

 

Now, there is a fantastic range of things that can be found beyond these simple steps, but it doesn’t take much to get to this stage of proceedings, knowing that it fits together.

 

It took me three goes on separate evenings to get the hang of the basics, but it is not difficult. Just different.

 

What I realised that there are two key concepts:

1) The notch on the background. This can be anywhere on the screen, and you choose where it goes, but there is only one at any single time, and it is a reference point for attaching templates. It is nothing more than a marker saying, “These are my coordinates, and this is my direction.”

2) Pegs. You can put a peg anywhere on a template, but there are some very useful specific pegs. When you join two templates, the program puts a notch under the active peg on the background template, and then joins your current template to that notch, using the currently activated notch. Some functions, such as shift-F2 (make crossover) do this for you automatically. It is worth getting to know the following pegs:

0 - datum, the lose end of a template, as compared to peg 1:

1 - the reference peg. On a turnout template this is the starting point of the actual turnout, and serves as the reference for sleeper spacing on the approach track. (If there is no approach track, then 0 and 1 overlap but they are not the same!) on plain track, it is the reference peg for sleeper spacing, but this can be adjusted by up to a standard rail length, e.g 60’.

9 - the far end of the template, opposite to 0. On a turnout, this is wherever the template ends after peg 1. On plain track, it usually coincides with peg 1, but as above, peg 1 can be adjusted.

5 - this is the peg used when creating a crossover, and lie on the turnout road at half the track centre spacing.

6 - where the turnout road finishes, and where the branch road will begin. Used for diverging routes.

7 - the main road peg aligned to 5.

8 - the main road peg aligned to 6: the end of the turnout proper, but not of the template.

 

Some of these positions (0 and 9) are relative to the ends of the template, but the others are determined by what else is going on with respect to the turnout geometry: peg 8 is where peg 8 is for whatever your turnout happens to be, even if the template is shorter than that, say for a catch point.

 

That was meant to be a shorter pist than it turned out to be! Hope it helps dispel some myths.

Templot is not difficult in and of itself. There is simply an awful lot to it, to give the modeller access to some pretty advanced techniques to create complicated track arrangements. As with everything, there is no free lunch, but the à la carte menu is cheap and sufficient enough for most people.

[Stubby47]

Fascinating post.

 

What's a B6?