Cleaning after soldering

[Ray H]

Apologies if this has been posted in the wrong area or if it has been covered before, I must have chosen the wrong search criteria.

 

I've been building some 4mm signals which need cleaning before painting.

 

The joints between handrails and their supporting stantions don't cover a large area and may not survive scrubbing to remove traces of flux.

 

What options exist (if at all) for soaking said signals in a fluid to neutralise any acids and prepare the signals for painting?

 

 

[Andy Hayter]

You could try leaving in ammonia cleaning solution - not exactly sure where you would get this in the UK (hardware store? Pharmacy?).

Failing that you could try dissolving bicarbonate of soda (baking section of the supermarket) in water and using that.  The disadvantage is that you are more likely to leave "salt" deposits as the model dries.

 

If you are doing more, I would do the hard scrubbing before adding the finer details.

 

Edit to add - plenty of ammonia solution offers on Amazon 

Edited November 19, 2017 by Andy Hayter

[mark axlecounter]

When I have built signals or locos I always wash them in hot soapy water and if there are any small fragile parts on them I just shake them in the water. Then run them over the hot water dry with paper towels.

Hope this helps.

 

Mark

[Gordon A]

Place in a sonic both with a degreasent, also gently rub over with a tooth brush.

 

I have used windscreen wash, but now use Iso propyl alcohol (IPA) available from e-bay.

 

Gordon A

[Ian Smeeton]

In the same vein, how would the esteemed company deal with soldered trackwork in built in place on the main baseboard?

 

Regards

 

Ian

[mark axlecounter]

In the same vein, how would the esteemed company deal with soldered trackwork in built in place on the main baseboard?

 

Spray bottle with hot soapy water and toothbrush.

Then another spray bottle with just hot water and a clean tooth bush. That's how I did my points on my layout

[Ian Smeeton]

In the same vein, how would the esteemed company deal with soldered trackwork in built in place on the main baseboard?

 

Spray bottle with hot soapy water and toothbrush.

Then another spray bottle with just hot water and a clean tooth bush. That's how I did my points on my layout

 

Thanks for that.

 

I am building on top of the Templot plan, so have been a bit wary of soaking the whole thing.

 

Did you get away with it, or should I look at having the plans laser printed to avoid the run of inkjet ink?

 

Regards

 

Ian

[BG John]

I've been spraying the soldering I do on the layout with IPA, then wiping it off with kitchen paper. I think it works OK. There are no templates though, as I'm making it up as I go along!

[Ray H]

Thanks for all the suggestions.

 

The sonic bath seems a good idea (as we have one) as does the IPA, because I have some of that as well.

 

I'll give them both a try.

 

Thinks . . . . I wonder if I could use IPA in the sonic bath (although that would use a lot of IPA)?

[Andy Hayter]

But you could always tip the IPA back after use and use it for non critical uses.

 

The only problem I have with the water, IPA, and sonic bath proposals is that there is nothing there to neutralise the acid flux.  Soaps, detergents and the ideas I gave above are alkaline and will neutralise the acid.  The other ideas just wash it away and could potentially leave some residue behind.

[mark axlecounter]

Thanks for that.

 

I am building on top of the Templot plan, so have been a bit wary of soaking the whole thing.

 

Did you get away with it, or should I look at having the plans laser printed to avoid the run of inkjet ink?

 

Regards

 

Ian

If I build points on templates I use clear plastic in between the template and the point.

I use that method.

I also agree with BG John I sometimes build with that method

[Ray H]

But you could always tip the IPA back after use and use it for non critical uses.

 

The only problem I have with the water, IPA, and sonic bath proposals is that there is nothing there to neutralise the acid flux.  Soaps, detergents and the ideas I gave above are alkaline and will neutralise the acid.  The other ideas just wash it away and could potentially leave some residue behind.

 

Would white Vinegar neutralise the acid and if so could it form the liquid in the sonic bath? Mind you, whether the good lady would welcome the everlasting (?) odour in the bath on her machine afterwards is another matter.

[cctransuk]

Apologies if this has been posted in the wrong area or if it has been covered before, I must have chosen the wrong search criteria.

 

I've been building some 4mm signals which need cleaning before painting.

 

The joints between handrails and their supporting stantions don't cover a large area and may not survive scrubbing to remove traces of flux.

 

What options exist (if at all) for soaking said signals in a fluid to neutralise any acids and prepare the signals for painting?

 

I always neutralise acidic flux residues in a warm solution of washing soda - just use gloves and eye protection.

 

The bath in an ultrasonic cleaner can follow.

 

Regards,

John Isherwood.

[Andy Hayter]

Would white Vinegar neutralise the acid and if so could it form the liquid in the sonic bath? Mind you, whether the good lady would welcome the everlasting (?) odour in the bath on her machine afterwards is another matter.

 

No Ray.  Vinegar is acidic.  Slightly worse than washing in water or IPA therefore.  John's suggestion of washing soda is also good.  

 

If you are intent on the sonic bath the bicarb of soda or washing soda are the way to go.  Ammonia solutions stink as does the IPA - ammonia stinks worse though.

[newbryford]

I've started using DCC Concepts Sapphire flux for wiring and brass work. I haven't yet used it for whitemetal work yet.

No need to neutralise it afterwards and cleaning is with IPA alcohol or similar.

 

Cheers,

Mick

[bike2steam]

I always use Halfords Surface Cleaner for removing solder residue, and preparation for painting for brass, nickel silver and white-metal.

[Ray H]

I always use Halfords Surface Cleaner for removing solder residue, and preparation for painting for brass, nickel silver and white-metal.

That's interesting. That was a recommendation I saw some while ago for cleaning - I can't remember what now - so I bought some but for some reason it remains unopened.

 

All good suggestions and I thank you for them. I'll have to see what the domestic manager has in stock!

[Siberian Snooper]

After any soldering I clean up with CIF and once the job is complete it goes in the ultrasonic bath with a little Sea Green as recommended by OzzyO. For copper clad trackwork I use the CIF and an old toothbrush, finally wiping down with a damp sponge, I don't worry too much about the templates as I have hopefully finished building the trackwork.

[Torper]

There are specialist fluids for use in ultrasnic baths specifically to clean away flux - ebay has quite afew examples.  You can get some for about £12.50 a litre upwards (eg https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ultrasonic-Cleaning-Fluid-Flux-Removing-PCB-Formula-1-LT-/160877238412)and they're used diluted with water.

 

DT

[Siberian Snooper]

There are specialist fluids for use in ultrasnic baths specifically to clean away flux - ebay has quite afew examples.  You can get some for about £12.50 a litre upwards (eg https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ultrasonic-Cleaning-Fluid-Flux-Removing-PCB-Formula-1-LT-/160877238412)and they're used diluted with water.

 

DT

Sea Clean is one such fluid recommended by OzzyO who builds 7mm loco kits and is off this parish.

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Seaclean2-Ultrasonic-cleaning-fluid-500ml/dp/B009HQ3R0S

[Ray H]

Thanks for all the suggestions. I've managed to get some soda crystals and given them all a bath in that plus a gentle scrub with a toothbrush.

[brightspark]

Use bathroom cleaner spray. (Something like Lidl W5) Squirt with that and clean with an old toothbrush. This cleans up everything nice. Before paint I also wash with soapy water, then clean water before paint. This is mainly for degreasing. Oh don't use fairy as it has lanolin in it. (But I use that anyway and have not had a problem.)

I also use the cleaner before soldering to make sure that I get a good clean surface to start with.

 

Andy