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My/our coach, carriage & wagon scratch building thread


gobbler

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Can't help myself,  ever feel like that?

 

Next up, a large GE cattle wagon.  Im using LNER wagons, Vol 1, by Peter Tatlow.  Just a one off this time, just to see how I get on with the roof.

20191118_191557.jpg.52470c85bfd372492b6881e552604d34.jpg

The two sides have been scribed, I'm now starting to build the details up.

 

Thanks for looking, crits, Q's & comments are always welcome

 

Scott

20191118_191005.jpg

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On  a bit of a roll tonight.

 

Have made some good progress.

20191118_222650.jpg.d6e56d660272da3c1acd355242f6ea7f.jpg20191118_222630.jpg.99f3cab845004fd4b84a34932b87b63f.jpg

 

Thats one side partially done.  You may notice that my original ends radii was too tight, more accurate now.  I've decided that i should be able to get away with the two roof supports that tie in the door posts.

 

Thanks for looking

 

Scott

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21 hours ago, gobbler said:

On  a bit of a roll tonight.

 

Have made some good progress.

20191118_222650.jpg.d6e56d660272da3c1acd355242f6ea7f.jpg20191118_222630.jpg.99f3cab845004fd4b84a34932b87b63f.jpg

 

Thats one side partially done.  You may notice that my original ends radii was too tight, more accurate now.  I've decided that i should be able to get away with the two roof supports that tie in the door posts.

 

Thanks for looking

 

Scott

 

That’s looking good.

 

That second photo answers ( I think) a question that I had. Namely, do you cut the sides from one sheet or build it up from 2 side panels and a central door section. Looks like one sheet to me withe the framing added after scribing, is that correct?

 

Jon

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Jon 

 

Exactly that, with the exception of cutting the slots in the side panels.

 

Before cutting them out everything is scribed then the layers of details are added.  I my have to invest in an olfa or tamiya panel scriber as when I scribe with the back of a 10A scalpel, it does tend to throw a burr up either side.

 

Cheers

 

Scott

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Another productive evening.

 

The basic external bracing and doors has been done. 

20191120_115841.jpg.2f2d5336a2def9b2e2ea64d3d29b98ff.jpg20191120_115916.jpg.043c58f3444334369005e1601e6a0048.jpg20191120_133219.jpg.bd6e61e94f0e9cf3381b9584a2f49855.jpg

 

Quite pleased with the result so far.

 

I'll be adding some weight between the doors, before adding the roof, which will stop the droopyness of of the upper part of the wagon sides, It will need to be painted.  Ive also noted that there appears to be two open slots on the ends of the cattle wagon.  The few pictures i have of this vehicle show the odd bit of plumbers hemp....i mean straw scattered about the floor and protruding through these holes.  A nice bit of detail to add, i think.

 

Thanks for looking,

 

Scott

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Bit more progress,

 

Most of the bracketry done, a light sand here and there, then just a few radii to add.

20191121_222235.jpg.9253f16efed365804be5c2d6803b16dd.jpg20191121_222251.jpg.d276d2e1af7527fb0f0911e181b600f4.jpg20191121_222209.jpg.3f4c4dddd8c343bcfd997441e0a183ab.jpg

 

Adding the lead into the bottom of the cattle pen is giving it a satisfying weighty feel.

 

The W irons are glued and double 8 spoke wheels are in.  FYI the inside distance between the W irons is 23.5mm, this seems to be ideal.  Again, free rolling and no wobble.

 

Think i might decorate the inside before i get carriec away with adding more delicate detail.

 

Thanks for looking

 

Scott

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Haven't been slacking, the light sanding and the radii have been done to the rear T brackets.

20191126_215444.jpg.d766cd321640b4237c8f1791f1f6184f.jpg

 

Passengers have been added, leaf springs done.  Have started on some of the more noticeable rivets, these are made from stretched sprue.  Once the rivets have hardened properly,  they'll be easier to sand down, just the one side done so far.

 

Just a few jobs left, the ther sides rivets, finish the axle box details, brake gear, bolt details for the split doors, then the roof.

 

Thanks for looking.

 

Scott

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well I've faffed around with the archer rivet decals without success, so I've bitten the bullet and stretched a few lengths of sprue.

20191210_215736.jpg.d5e75c26de46c7bb17d913cdcc4ad4dd.jpg20191210_215717.jpg.5109a0bf89e22d0555ee077d64b54e1b.jpg

 

It's taken time, glueing all the rivets in place, just two ends left on one of the wagons.   All rivets need to dry hard, then a light sanding.   It would probably drive some people mad, but for me, weirdly satisfying......well it keeps me out of trouble.

 

Thanks for looking....

 

Scott

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1 hour ago, jwealleans said:

What problem did you have with the Archer rivets?  I find them very good.

When i cut the strip, and soaked ready to apply they twisted and crinkled the clear backing.  Since then, I've given the areas a light sanding ready for my stretched sprue rivets.

 

My method...

1. Gloss area

2. Place the ready to slide decal near the position

3. Pull the backing away.

4. Gently move into correct position with a cocktail stick and ear bud.

 

The decal sheet was bought a year ago and look in good condition with no creasing on the sheet. 

 

Khris, it was the smaller rivets sheet, I used them first on my CCT, with varying degrees of success a few pages back.  Even then I struggled, I also thought these decal rivets looked to 'fine'.

 

Cheers, scott.

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I started with the mixed sheet, AR88001 from Historex.   Apply them like waterslide decals - I've not had the issue Scott mentioned above.

 

They can drop off readily after they dry, so I either prime them very quickly or apply a drop of MekPak which melts the backing and sticks them on.

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I have never used them on a gloss surface, either bare metal/plastic or primed only.

 

I  brush Micro Sol onto them after laying, then leave overnight ,and then spray with primer to seal them onto the surface, DO NOT touch them after intial laying/Micro Sol stage. The occasional one has moved/fallen off  at this stage, just replace and seal again once dry.

 

 

post-7186-0-07862900-1350635523_thumb.jpgpost-7186-0-43541100-1350992953_thumb.jpg

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Micklner,

 

Seeing the rivets you've laid has inspired me to try again on the next builds i do.  I'm not one for giving in to a sheet of decals, honest. 

 

I think it will be plank wagons next of various sizes.  So I'll give them another go then.

 

Thanks for your technique on laying them on a plain surface.

 

Scott 

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  • 2 months later...

I've been quite on hear of late.....so a time for a quick update on my shenanigans....

 

I've bought myself an olfa cutter and have been practicing scribing my lines....

1st up, 3 covered GE wagons

20200225_195031.jpg.52c9e30919c5a38eaf4a559e137f80c4.jpg

 

Then there are 2 x 3 plank wagons and a 5 plank GE wagon

20200225_195010.jpg.d1ceddee65b50e13a6d599507215fa75.jpg

 

The scribing is ok, i think,  if a little wide.

 

Of course you cant have wagons on the rails without 'W' irons.  So I've got a little production run of these I'm doing at the moment, all from the drawing i posted a page or two ago.

20200225_194921.jpg.7d51f9a6399922dd725d21e56ed28072.jpg

20200225_194947.jpg.171f85ba6cb73815e751b6d1ce1a45ad.jpg

 

When these are done, I'm not sure what to do.  Possibly some ballast wagons or some of the older type wooden bulk grain wagons as in these two types from Peter Tatlows LNER wagons.

20200225_201034.jpg.62a92a448a8b983a112727a193167d30.jpg

 

But unfortunately there is no accompanying drawing.  I have two options......

 

1. They were seemingly based on a GWR design, got to get a book for the scale drawing, but dont know which one.......help any one?

2. I have a parkside dundas model which i could take the measurements from.

 

Thanks for looking

 

Scott

 

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Scott, I've done a couple of those grain vans by cutting up the Parkside kit, shuffling the panels around and building the doors.  The GW diagram is V22, I think.  There are a number of detail differences between the two.   You'll find them on my workbench thread.

 

Graeme King also has a mould for the body if you ask him very nicely and don't mind a one-piece resin casting.

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11 hours ago, jwealleans said:

Scott, I've done a couple of those grain vans by cutting up the Parkside kit, shuffling the panels around and building the doors.  The GW diagram is V22, I think.  There are a number of detail differences between the two.   You'll find them on my workbench thread.

 

Graeme King also has a mould for the body if you ask him very nicely and don't mind a one-piece resin casting.

 

Thanks Jwealleans,

 

I will look for v22 drawings and see what i come up with.  Nice idea btw of doing a cut and shut on the parkside model.  Also a nice idea of the resin model........but being a reader of this thread.....you should know by now, i just gotta have a go at scratching it.

 

Cheers

 

Scott

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This should make it fairly apparent how I did it:

 

lner-1-zps5c689c3b.jpg

 

... and here it is painted.

 

lne.jpg

 

These vans had an interesting history.  Built to diagram V22, they were rebuilt to carry cement when the grain traffic ceased, then rebuilt back to grain hoppers but with no side doors and given diagram V29.  This is a V29:

 

v29.jpg

 

This is a GW one I built for someone else:

 

grainvan1-zpsa5d4df51.jpg

 

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Haven't updated this thread in a while, life getting in the way, as per usual.

 

Been busy on and off as you can see in the following pictures.20200312_222045.jpg.8919932303dbf563e9c159ca78a5e20b.jpg

The covered wagons now have wheels and I'm starting to add detail to the axle noxes.  You can also see one of the two salt vans i made, now in green.

20200312_222025.jpg.7b6e6154621cca962a44f8d059bed829.jpg

Here you can see both salt vans, and behind, the three grain hoppers i made a while back.  Just in front are the two 5 plank and two 3 plank GE wagons.

20200312_222007.jpg.1aff5277cac3b980ad1e5e681cb92c6e.jpg

These are being made whilst i wait for various bits and bobs to dry thoroughly. 

 

Thanks for looking.

 

I'll post more as and when.....

 

Cheers

 

Scott

 

 

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On 26/02/2020 at 07:27, jwealleans said:

Scott, I've done a couple of those grain vans by cutting up the Parkside kit, shuffling the panels around and building the doors.  The GW diagram is V22, I think.  There are a number of detail differences between the two.   You'll find them on my workbench thread.

 

Graeme King also has a mould for the body if you ask him very nicely and don't mind a one-piece resin casting.

The grain vans,  what buffers are those and where can i procure some?

 

Thanks in advance 

 

Scott

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