Warren Branch

[chuffinghell]

29 minutes ago, Stubby47 said:

It also needs a telegraph pole alongside

I’d not thought about that, thanks Stu

[Fishplate]

Hi Chris,

 

Looks good. I wouldn't think your phone box would need much, if any, weathering if it was constructed within a year or two of the setting of your layout. 

 

On a similar GPO topic I got into a tangle on my Mk1 layout when I wanted to introduce a letter box which I was going to scratch build. I was just expecting to make a shaped red blob on a black post, but much there is more to it than you would think (as with all these worm holes model railways take you down).

 

I turned up the website below many years ago when I was looking for information. If you feel the urge to put in a (3D printed?) GPO letter box near the station, this might be of interest : 

 

https://lbsg.org/

 

John

 

[chuffinghell]

7 minutes ago, Fishplate said:

Hi Chris,

 

Looks good. I wouldn't think your phone box would need much, if any, weathering if it was constructed within a year or two of the setting of your layout. 

 

On a similar GPO topic I got into a tangle on my Mk1 layout when I wanted to introduce a letter box which I was going to scratch build. I was just expecting to make a shaped red blob on a black post, but much there is more to it than you would think (as with all these worm holes model railways take you down).

 

I turned up the website below many years ago when I was looking for information. If you feel the urge to put in a (3D printed?) GPO letter box near the station, this might be of interest : 

 

https://lbsg.org/

 

John

 

I had thought about a post box

[57xx]

On 08/06/2021 at 11:34, St Enodoc said:

 

I'm not a CAD user and by no means an expert in design but I understand that packages such as Solidworks or similar will do just that. I imagine that they don't come cheap though.

 

Whilst it will create your 2D isometric and orthographic projections from the 3D model you create automatically, I don't think it does it the other way round. It's been a while since I used it, so it could've changed, but it was always a manual task to convert 2 projections to 3D. You basically use the 2D projections to guide the extrusions etc to build the 3D model up. And yes, Solidworks is VERY expensive, but bloody good software.

[57xx]

13 hours ago, chuffinghell said:

The layout is mid-late thirties so it should be okay. I chose this period so I could get away with having both the 'coat of arms' and 'roundel' liveries on the wagons and coaches

 

My non-existant layout is set in the same loose period for the same reasons. Running a mix of "Great Western" and roundel locos, wagons in pre and post 1936 liveries etc and some of the locos weren't introduced till late/very late 1930s.

[AlfaZagato]

My collection in N is aimed at about 1937.   Let's me run Aeros and Buffaloes.

[chuffinghell]

34 minutes ago, 57xx said:

 

Whilst it will create your 2D isometric and orthographic projections from the 3D model you create automatically, I don't think it does it the other way round. It's been a while since I used it, so it could've changed, but it was always a manual task to convert 2 projections to 3D. You basically use the 2D projections to guide the extrusions etc to build the 3D model up. And yes, Solidworks is VERY expensive, but bloody good software.

That’s how I understood it but as you have said it might have changed since I last looked into it

[Mick Bonwick]

17 hours ago, chuffinghell said:

I think it possibly needs a black wash?

 

 

I think that black might be too much of a contrast. A dark brown or mid grey might produce a more appropriate result. Think back to your lorry loadbed.

[chuffinghell]

Started to mess about with the weighbridge hut

 

 

It looks dark and glossy because the wash is wet, once dry I’ll apply matt varnish and then use weathering powders to tone it down as I did with the goods shed

 

I’ve found using the ‘slap it on haphazardly’ method gives an uneven, non uniform look and texture

 

The door and window are in primer after finally figuring out how to get a decent print 

 

[Gedward]

3 minutes ago, chuffinghell said:

Started to mess about with the weighbridge hut

 

 

It looks dark and glossy because the wash is wet, once dry I’ll apply matt varnish and then use weathering powders to tone it down as I did with the goods shed

 

I’ve found using the ‘slap it on haphazardly’ method gives an uneven, non uniform look and texture

 

The door and window are in primer after finally figuring out how to get a decent print 

 

 

 It looks right at home in that spot.

[Martin S-C]

That flexible walling is brilliant. Where did you get it again? I have seen almost exactly that pattern used in the Forest of Dean so will grab some for my layout.

 

[chuffinghell]

3 minutes ago, Martin S-C said:

That flexible walling is brilliant. Where did you get it again? I have seen almost exactly that pattern used in the Forest of Dean so will grab some for my layout.

 

It is fantastic stuff, it’s from @osbornsmodels 

 

https://www.osbornsmodels.com/aloo201-arch-laser-flexible-cotswold-stone-walling-bulk-pack-42999-p.asp

 

Wish I’d thought of putting a post box in it 

[chuffinghell]

One of the problems with resin prints is that you have to wait for paint to cure naturally because the prints are heat sensitive and can/will distort….so basically I can’t speed up the drying with Sarah’s hair dryer 

 

 

I’ll put the matt varnish on the door and window tomorrow before weathering and assembly

[Mick Bonwick]

9 minutes ago, chuffinghell said:

so basically I can’t speed up the drying with Sarah’s hair dryer 

 

Why not use your own?

[chuffinghell]

58 minutes ago, Mick Bonwick said:

 

Why not use your own?

because I spent my hair dryer cash on a soldering iron 

[Gedward]

1 hour ago, chuffinghell said:

because I spent my hair dryer cash on a soldering iron 

 

I was wondering where you got those nasty burns from.

[Stubby47]

3 hours ago, chuffinghell said:

One of the problems with resin prints is that you have to wait for paint to cure naturally because the prints are heat sensitive and can/will distort….so basically I can’t speed up the drying with Sarah’s hair dryer 

 

 

I’ll put the matt varnish on the door and window tomorrow before weathering and assembly

 

Can I just offer an opinion on the awkwardness of actually getting to /from the gate to the weigh bridge - it looks a very tight turn to get off the bridge and through the gate.

 

[Harlequin]

3 hours ago, chuffinghell said:

One of the problems with resin prints is that you have to wait for paint to cure naturally because the prints are heat sensitive and can/will distort….so basically I can’t speed up the drying with Sarah’s hair dryer 

 

 

To harden off your prints quicker, put them out in the sunshine - lots of UV out there!

 

One related thing that I found useful was to place the printer in a dark room while it was printing because that prevents stray UV getting in.

 

[chuffinghell]

11 minutes ago, Harlequin said:

 

To harden off your prints quicker, put them out in the sunshine - lots of UV out there!

 

One related thing that I found useful was to place the printer in a dark room while it was printing because that prevents stray UV getting in.

 

or use a homemade UV curing box

 

 

even after curing if you use a heat source to speed up paint drying it distorts the print

 

[chuffinghell]

52 minutes ago, Stubby47 said:

 

Can I just offer an opinion on the awkwardness of actually getting to /from the gate to the weigh bridge - it looks a very tight turn to get off the bridge and through the gate.

 

I’ll have to look at relocating it if I can

[chuffinghell]

2 hours ago, Stubby47 said:

 

Can I just offer an opinion on the awkwardness of actually getting to /from the gate to the weigh bridge - it looks a very tight turn to get off the bridge and through the gate.

 

current position

 

 

Moved along 16mm (4ft)

 

 

Not a massive difference but it’s a compromise

 

Edited June 12, 2021 by chuffinghell

[chuffinghell]

2 hours ago, Harlequin said:

One related thing that I found useful was to place the printer in a dark room while it was printing because that prevents stray UV getting in.

 

I’d not considered that as I assumed the tinted acrylic cover filtered out UV

so I’ve just had a look on the net and can get covers, although they are all for larger printers and not baby ones

 

 

Apparently the translucent acrylic cover that goes over the printer is supposed to keep out 99.9% of UV but I’m not convinced so I’m considering getting a cover

[Stubby47]

12 hours ago, chuffinghell said:

current position

 

 

Moved along 16mm (4ft)

 

 

Not a massive difference but it’s a compromise

 

 

For those 3 wheelers, the original position does look fine, but for any larger wagon the 2nd position gives more manoeuvrability. 

 

Bit like I said, it's just my opinion 

[chuffinghell]

15 minutes ago, Stubby47 said:

 

For those 3 wheelers, the original position does look fine, but for any larger wagon the 2nd position gives more manoeuvrability. 

 

Bit like I said, it's just my opinion 

I value your opinion hence the change.

 

I’m getting there, window and door painted and weathered

 

 

 

I just need to do the gutters and downpipes

[Harlequin]

30 minutes ago, Stubby47 said:

 

For those 3 wheelers, the original position does look fine, but for any larger wagon the 2nd position gives more manoeuvrability. 

 

Bit like I said, it's just my opinion 

Chris, You could also get more turning space by setting the building into the bank a little bit and more parallel with the boundary wall. Quite realistic, actually.

 

In the end though, it's a compressed version of what might have been and if a big lorry can't easily turn off the weighbridge, that would be a small compression compromise and probably lost amongst all the other details.