Hornby dublo

[Il Grifone]

Dublo lining transfers were rather on the generous side with regard to dimensions. This resulted in the red lines being either side of the boiler band (assuming they were put on straight which wasn't always the case! Friday afternoon?). The black/orange/black lining similarly had the orange lines either side of the band. Late Wrenn examples had finer lining I believe, but even Pressfix is too coarse. The red and orange lines were only 1/8" wide on the real thing.... Theoretically this should be invisible in 00 scale*, but the bright colour over rules the theory.

 

* The resolution of the human eye is supposedly 1/250th of an inch. (Presumably an average value!)

[sagaguy]

Dublo lining transfers were rather on the generous side with regard to dimensions. This resulted in the red lines being either side of the boiler band (assuming they were put on straight which wasn't always the case! Friday afternoon?). The black/orange/black lining similarly had the orange lines either side of the band. Late Wrenn examples had finer lining I believe, but even Pressfix is too coarse. The red and orange lines were only 1/8" wide on the real thing.... Theoretically this should be invisible in 00 scale*, but the bright colour over rules the theory.

 

* The resolution of the human eye is supposedly 1/250th of an inch. (Presumably an average value!)

That`s why i prefer Fox transfers.

[Golden Fleece 30]

That`s why i prefer Fox transfers.

It all depends on whether you want a "scale" looking re-paint, or a Dublo style re-paint. At the end of the day it is good we have the choice and both are acceptable for an individuals choosing.

 

Garry

[MikeCW]

I haven't made much progress with the "City" rebuild in Post 227 - waiting for transfers and a suitable tender.  But I've not been idle.

 

In Post 248, which was about a Wrenn City chassis internet purchase, which came under a well-worn Montrose body, I mentioned that I had another, battered City body which I might put on the Wrenn chassis. I dug it out and "battered" was a bit of an understatement - no buffers, a broken off footstep, and a cab roof that had suffered a "long drop".  It looked as if the locomotive had been dropped vertically on the cab end.  The rear overhang was bent through 90 degrees at one corner, and slightly cracked along the bend. Perhaps I should have binned it, but I must have heard the admonitions of my Yorkshire forebears about waste.  Not really - as was stated by Garry in a previous post, it sometimes comes down to the simple satisfaction of fixing something.

 

I tried to bend the roof back into shape, helped with gentle heat, but no luck.  It broke into several pieces. So, as a last resort, I thought I'd try to rebuild it.  The photos below show the sequence.  I sawed off and filed the roof overhang square to give a straight edge to work with.  I then cut a replacement rear cab roof from 1mm brass, using my other City body as a template, and with some difficulty, curved it with fingers and pliers to match the curve of the cab roof on the engine.  But what to do about beading?

 

I found some nickel silver wire that was close in dimension to the cab roof beading and soldered it round the edge of my brass roof extension. This isn't the job for your 15 watt electrical soldering iron.  I used my late father's iron - it must be 60-80 watts - to tin the new roof extension, then moved quickly to tack the wire in place, and fill any gaps with solder.  I araldited a thin piece of brass under the roof to create a ledge and reinforcement for the extension, which I then araldited to the roof.  All that is required now is a smear of filler and a light sand to blend the beading and she'll be ready for paint. I think that this one will be a green Duchess or City. Further progress will be reported in due course.

 

[Edit.  I subsequently noticed that tiny blob of solder in the bottom right hand corner of the beading in the last photo. ( Photographs are cruel exposers of untidy work.)  That has now been tidied up with a fine engraving burr in my Dremel.]

 

It is a very solid job, though if at some stage in the future, another owner drops the body into paint stripper preparatory to a repaint, he or she will get a shock when the roof comes apart!

 

Mike

Edited October 6, 2018 by MikeCW

[MikeCW]

It all depends on whether you want a "scale" looking re-paint, or a Dublo style re-paint. At the end of the day it is good we have the choice and both are acceptable for an individuals choosing.

 

Garry

Fully agree with you, Ray and David.  It depends on what one wants.  I'm trying to get a Dublo-style look to my Dublo rebuilds, but use PC/HRMS (and sometimes Fox) on my "scale" models.

 

Mike

[Golden Fleece 30]

I haven't made much progress with the "City" rebuild in Post 227 - waiting for transfers and a suitable tender. But I've not been idle.

 

In Post 248, which was about a Wrenn City chassis internet purchase, which came under a well-worn Montrose body, I mentioned that I had another, battered City body which I might put on the Wrenn chassis. I dug it out and "battered" was a bit of an understatement - no buffers, a broken off footstep, and a cab roof that had suffered a "long drop". It looked as if the locomotive had been dropped vertically on the cab end. The rear overhang was bent through 90 degrees at one corner, and slightly cracked along the bend. Perhaps I should have binned it, but I must have heard the admonitions of my Yorkshire forebears about waste. Not really - as was stated by Garry in a previous post, it sometimes comes down to the simple satisfaction of fixing something.

 

I tried to bend the roof back into shape, helped with gentle heat, but no luck. It broke into several pieces. So, as a last resort, I thought I'd try to rebuild it. The photos below show the sequence. I sawed off and filed the roof overhang square to give a straight edge to work with. I then cut a replacement rear cab roof from 1mm brass, using my other City body as a template, and with some difficulty, curved it with fingers and pliers to match the curve of the cab roof on the engine. But what to do about beading?

 

I found some nickel silver wire that was close in dimension to the cab roof beading and soldered it round the edge of my brass roof extension. This isn't the job for your 15 watt electrical soldering iron. I used my late father's iron - it must be 60-80 watts - and moved quickly to tack the wire in place, and flood the gaps with solder. I then araldited a thin piece of brass under the roof to create a ledge and reinforcement for the extension, which I then araldited to the roof. All that is required now is a smear of filler and a light sand to blend the beading and she'll be ready for paint. I think that this one will be a green Duchess or City. Further progress will be reported in due course.

 

It is a very solid job, though if at some stage in the future, another owner drops the body into paint stripper preparatory to a repaint, he or she will get a shock when the roof comes apart!

 

Mike

P1020020 City.jpg P1020022 City.jpg P1020023 City.jpg P1020052 City.jpg P1020055 City.jpg

Superb, very impressive, fantastic repair job Mike.

 

As you say must come from the good old Yorkshire background, I have been here 65 years "nowt wrong with us lads" :-)

 

Garry

Edited October 6, 2018 by Golden Fleece 30

[45568]

FYI

 

https://www.ebay.com.au/sch/elitedublo/m.html?item=153206692837&hash=item23abd49be5%3Ag%3ArrcAAOSwKEFbtw4V&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2562

 

This gentleman sells on Australian ebay, I have no connection, but some of his prices do look reasonable to me. He does post toUK, hopefully his list will show! May be useful?

Cheers from Oz,

Peter C.

[Wolseley]

FYI

 

https://www.ebay.com.au/sch/elitedublo/m.html?item=153206692837&hash=item23abd49be5%3Ag%3ArrcAAOSwKEFbtw4V&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2562

 

This gentleman sells on Australian ebay, I have no connection, but some of his prices do look reasonable to me. He does post toUK, hopefully his list will show! May be useful?

Cheers from Oz,

Peter C.

 

 

I have dealt with him in the past and have no complaints.  His post and packaging charges within Australia are reasonable although, obviously, I have no idea what he charges for postage to the UK.

[sagaguy]

About average using Sterling exchange converters,try John here,he does post world wide.

 

                   https://www.jwmodelrailways.com/Hornby-dublo

 

                Ray.

[MikeCW]

About average using Sterling exchange converters,try John here,he does post world wide.

 

                   https://www.jwmodelrailways.com/Hornby-dublo

 

                Ray.

I've tried John Winkley (jwmodelrailways) on Ray's recommendation. The service was excellent and postage costs to New Zealand reasonable, perhaps slightly higher than Hattons' postage costs which are my benchmark.

 

Mike

[sagaguy]

Out of interest,John even has a customer in Namibia,S.W.Africa.We went across Namibia on a safari tour about 8 years ago,pity we didn`t know him then,we stopped in his hometown for a few hours.Best holiday we ever had & we`ve been on a few to Africa!.

 

                          Ray.

[Wolseley]

perhaps slightly higher than Hattons' postage costs which are my benchmark.

 

 

I don't think there would be many people out there who would better Hatton's post and packing costs though.

[MikeCW]

I don't think there would be many people out there who would better Hatton's post and packing costs though.

I bought from John two v.good Duchess tenders in original boxes for £20 each, and the airmail postage to NZ was £6.75.  The stinger of course is that John didn't deduct VAT, as Hattons do, from their list prices, which would have made a helpful difference to the overall cost!

 

An advantage to us overseas folks of buying from John (and other commercial sellers) is that the postage costs are shown on the draft invoice before the final decision to hit the "Buy" button is made. Buying from private sellers on Ebay can be a bit of a lottery as some will prefer to negotiate postage charges after purchase.  (And I simply won't place a bid on any item where the seller is part of their Global Shipping Programme.)

 

Edit.  By chance I was tidying the shed/workshop today (a glorious spring day), and found the box that the two tenders had come in. The Royal Mail postage sticker read £9.50.  So John absorbed around £3 of the postage cost. My thanks to him. 

 

Mike

Edited October 8, 2018 by MikeCW

[sagaguy]

Aha,that`s probably why he didn`t deduct VAT.Iniquitous tax,many years ago,new car dealers used to add the price of car to the car tax & then charge VAT on the whole lot so we were paying tax on a tax!!!

 

 

                                           Ray.

[Il Grifone]

Indeed iniquitous! Now, with Brexit, we can drop VAT and go back to purchase tax. 

 

I'm not holding my breath, as it's such a good scam.... (bit by bit, the rate has increased to more or less the old 'luxury' rate*, but now applied to everything!)

 

* Higher than the present rate of 20%, but charged on the wholesale price. As a sales tax, it wasn't applicable to commercial transactions, so no 'pay and claim back' nonsense - good for accountants, but no one else!

 

I believe the tax on tax still applies to vehicle fuel.

Edited October 8, 2018 by Il Grifone

[Nearholmer]

If we want public services, we have to pay for ‘em.

 

It might be easier if, instead of treating us like children who have to take nasty-tasting medicine, politicians said so plainly, thereby saving the bother of trying to hide taxation.

[Il Grifone]

If we want public services, we have to pay for ‘em.

 

It might be easier if, instead of treating us like children who have to take nasty-tasting medicine, politicians said so plainly, thereby saving the bother of trying to hide taxation.

 

True. What annoys me is the way they talk about not increasing income tax (the top rate of which has been cut drastically), so they increase indirect taxation instead.

[Wolseley]

I'm not sure if I should put this in the Hornby Dublo thread, or the Tri-ang thread, but here's a photo I took on the dining room table this afternoon:

 

Edited October 9, 2018 by Wolseley

[Golden Fleece 30]

I'm not sure if I should put this in the Hornby Dublo thread, or the Tri-ang thread, but here's a photo I took on the dining room table this afternoon:

 

P1010288.jpg

If its 3-rail put it on here, I do with my Tri-ang ones.  You need some nice coaches to go behind her.  Look up some Exleys.

 

Garry

[Wolseley]

If its 3-rail put it on here, I do with my Tri-ang ones.  You need some nice coaches to go behind her.  Look up some Exleys.

 

Garry

 

 

It has been converted to run on three rail.  I fitted a Marklin skate and the loco picks up from all wheels - the result is that it runs as well as any Dublo three rail loco, including through pointwork.  I replaced the bogie wheels with two spare pairs of wheels from three rail Dublo 0-6-2T locos.

 

Exleys would be nice, but I don't want to spend that sort of money on coaches (or other rolling stock for that matter) at the moment.  I am aiming to reserve what funds I have for buying plywood, 2x1 softwood, wire and associated paraphernalia.

[sagaguy]

Skate under the loco or tender?.

 

                 Ray.

[Wolseley]

Under the loco, although I did think of using the tender instead.  I removed the magnet to make space for the nut and bolt that hold the skate in place.  As I don't intend running it with more than two or three coaches, performance shouldn't be a problem - I have been running it with two Tri-ang Caledonian coaches without any trouble.  Trains with more than four coaches (even the "abbreviated" Dublo ones) would look too long for the layout I am going to build.

 

I'm not sure which version of the Marklin skate I used (i bought it a year or so ago and it's been sitting in a desk drawer since then) but the length of it is such that the ends of it are (just) clear of the fixing bolts on the underside of the chassis

[Golden Fleece 30]

It has been converted to run on three rail.  I fitted a Marklin skate and the loco picks up from all wheels - the result is that it runs as well as any Dublo three rail loco, including through pointwork.  I replaced the bogie wheels with two spare pairs of wheels from three rail Dublo 0-6-2T locos.

 

Exleys would be nice, but I don't want to spend that sort of money on coaches (or other rolling stock for that matter) at the moment.  I am aiming to reserve what funds I have for buying plywood, 2x1 softwood, wire and associated paraphernalia.

On my Lord of the Isles I replaced the insulated wheels with non insulated ones and put pick-ups on the loco.  What I found is that the magnet between the wheels drags it a little so removed it, filled the hole with a little lead and mine happily pulls 9 Exley suburbans on Nickel Silver track.

 

Garry

[Wolseley]

On my Lord of the Isles I replaced the insulated wheels with non insulated ones....

 

Garry

 

 

Which is what I did, although it may not have been clear from my post.  When I referred to pick-up from all wheels I realise now that it was rather ambiguous.

[Wolseley]

My present project, as far as locomotives are concerned, is resurrecting a Duchess of Montrose I bought cheaply as a non-runner - and there are two more "non-runner" duchesses to follow.  The reason this one wouldn't go was that someone had cut out and removed all the wiring (including the TV suppression thingy) between the centre-rail pick-up and the brush plug.  It was also missing a brush spring and, of all things, the magnet.  It also looked like it had spent most of its life running on rails laid on carpet.  After spending an evening cleaning it up and replacing the missing bits (thankfully I had all of them in my spares box) it was up and running again.

 

When I'm finished, it will be the City of Leicester, in LMS wartime black, without smoke deflectors and with a streamline tender (present day Hornby body on a Dublo chassis) as shown in a photograph in Douglas Doherty's The LMS Duchesses.

 

I think I have enough LMS pacifics now: six Duchesses (or seven if you count the Canadian Pacific one) and three Cities.