Let's see your Airfix/Kitmaster kit

[sagaguy]

The sideframes were cut to make the axleboxes to line up with the wheels and butted and glued with plastic weld,small sections of plastic were welded to the backs and drilled and tapped for the fixing screws.I didn`t smooth the body,the raised moudings were excellent guides for the lining,the only slight problem came with applying the chevrons,they had to be cut into sections as they were not designed to match the mouldings.Heres a pic of the internal construction.

 

                             Ray

 

 

[Great Eastern]

Thanks for that, like your work especially using a 'cut-away' as it were to be able to match up the chassis and body. Good idea.

I've also been making a production Deltic, and have used the same ploy with the sideframes, although I've made mine an intermediate length between the Dublo and Kitmaster wheelbases. It's a compromise to 'fill up the gap' so to speak under the body, but still appear to be in line with the wheels. I'll have to see how well it works when I eventually finish it !!!!!

Here they are, (before fettling )

 

 

Kitmaster at the bottom, mine above.

 

I'm making a new chassis (the only non 1960's bit) from welded steel. I've built a few loco chassis using this method as it allows a strong but heavy one to be constructed with the weight as part of the strength.

 

Like your blue-grey carriages, I presume they are repaints of SD's ??   I'd be interested to hear about your experiences in this respect (especially lining) as I'm now trying to do some green / blood and custards myself.

Thanks,

GE

 

[russ p]

8 minutes ago, Great Eastern said:

Thanks for that, like your work especially using a 'cut-away' as it were to be able to match up the chassis and body. Good idea.

I've also been making a production Deltic, and have used the same ploy with the sideframes, although I've made mine an intermediate length between the Dublo and Kitmaster wheelbases. It's a compromise to 'fill up the gap' so to speak under the body, but still appear to be in line with the wheels. I'll have to see how well it works when I eventually finish it !!!!!

Here they are, (before fettling )

 

 

Kitmaster at the bottom, mine above.

 

I'm making a new chassis (the only non 1960's bit) from welded steel. I've built a few loco chassis using this method as it allows a strong but heavy one to be constructed with the weight as part of the strength.

 

Like your blue-grey carriages, I presume they are repaints of SD's ??   I'd be interested to hear about your experiences in this respect (especially lining) as I'm now trying to do some green / blood and custards myself.

Thanks,

GE

 

 

It may have been done but I don't recall people using these for triang and Hornby 37s in the 70s. Not totally accurate but better than 31 or 47 bogies 

[sagaguy]

The blue grey coaches are card overlays that i produced specially for this train, i thought i did a set for the brake but i can`t find them at the moment.

 

                  Ray.

[Great Eastern]

Nice graphics and good overlays,  they look good.

I'm a glutton for punishment however, and am attempting to match the tinplate ones with paint !!   I'm hoping the cream and crimsons will be a bit easier than the green, as at least I'm not having to match HD carriages in the same rake. 

I live in hope !!!

GE

[sagaguy]

Thanks,feel free to download and print onto a decent a4 gloss photo paper.

 

    Ray 

[RedgateModels]

On 22/07/2022 at 13:42, RedgateModels said:

Pretty certain I used BR coach grey. I'll have a dig around in my paintbox this evening to see what's in there. The tin will be next to the deltic blue hopefully :)

now I remember, it was grey primer lol

[sagaguy]

19 hours ago, sagaguy said:

The blue grey coaches are card overlays that i produced specially for this train, i thought i did a set for the brake but i can`t find them at the moment.

 

                  Ray.

Still can`t find the brake prints but if you do need them,i can resize them from the SD versions or print them and have SD coach in the rake.

 

                            Ray

 

                   

[Pierview]

Here's my Kitmaster Deltic  motorisation, which I  completed about 2006. If I remember correctly I followed an article in BRM  by George Dent and used  a  Lima class 37 chassis which was cut to fit. I subsequently replaced the Lima wheels with an Ultrascale set. The body was detailed with Shawplan parts and transfers and plates are by Fox. I carefully removed the raised plastic lining from the body sides, which is an exercise that I have done many times over the years with plastic kit conversions. The Deltic was a complete departure from my usual modelling interests but I had always wanted one so it had to be done!

 

 

Edited July 25, 2022 by Pierview

[Great Eastern]

Hi Sagaguy,

Thanks for that, I'll see how I get on and get back to you on that. (My printer's decided to play up at the moment of course).

Cheers

GE

 

[Great Eastern]

Hi Pierview,

Nice work, as with others can I ask what paints you used please ?

As regards minidrills, I'm using an old Minicraft one, not brilliant but it goes !!  More importantly, when using small drills in my pillardrill, I just put the drillbit in a pinchuck, then put the pinchuck into the pillardrill's chuck. Not only does it hold it, but it keeps it more centralised, also less likely to break I've found. With very tiny drills I tend to just use a pinchuck on its own.

Cheers,

GE

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Great Eastern]

Hi All

Does anybody know if Brian Waite is on this site ?  He's the chap who built that magnificent 5 inch gauge DP1 some years ago. He's something of a guru when it comes to that loco of course, and I'm still trying to track down a piccy relating to DP1s original green and cream livery.   I've got a topic page open about this,

https://www.rmweb.co.uk/topic/172953-dp1-deltic-prototype/#comment-4866663

(if anyone's interested).

 

Thanks,

GE

 

[Pierview]

2 hours ago, Great Eastern said:

Hi Pierview,

Nice work, as with others can I ask what paints you used please ?

As regards minidrills, I'm using an old Minicraft one, not brilliant but it goes !!  More importantly, when using small drills in my pillardrill, I just put the drillbit in a pinchuck, then put the pinchuck into the pillardrill's chuck. Not only does it hold it, but it keeps it more centralised, also less likely to break I've found. With very tiny drills I tend to just use a pinchuck on its own.

Cheers,

GE

Hi GE

I am pretty certain I used Railmatch 317 Deltic Blue for this model although it was a long time ago!  The other alternative, which I used for my static showcase Deltic, was Phoenix P110 Prototype Deltic  Blue (Dull),  but my personal opinion was that this was a little too dark.

 

So far as mini drills are concerned I've gone for a Proxxon, which will be receiving as a birthday present soon.

Barry

 

 

[Chas Levin]

On 04/06/2022 at 18:15, russ p said:

A few Dapol houses in a 30s housing estate with some Bachmann ones . The old airfix kits stand up well with the modern resin ones 

 

 

Wonderful, really love that, takes me right back to childhood 😀, lovely work!

[Chas Levin]

On 05/06/2022 at 15:28, Darius43 said:

Class B Tank - pristine then weathered.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

As the kit apart from replacing the ladders with etched metal versions.
 

Cheers

 

Darius

Really nice job Darius - I have one to build shortly, plan on using the Masokits detailing kit with it too, yours are inspiring!

 

(Edited because I scrolled down the previous page further and saw the others you've done too!)

Edited July 26, 2022 by Chas Levin

[Great Eastern]

Hi Pierview,

I think you're quite right to go for the Proxxon, they look good. 

Interesting about the Phoenix being a bit dark.  Can I ask you what greys you used for the Deltic please?

 

 

 Hi Chas,

Quite agree about the tankers, good work, like you mine are a work in progress, in my case very slow progress !!

 

GE

EDIT   PS  Have you seen this ?

https://www.rmweb.co.uk/topic/173100-ladders-for-tank-wagons/#comment-4880777

 

 

Edited July 26, 2022 by Great Eastern

[sagaguy]

I bought a Proxxon drill and kit several years ago,worst purchase I ever made.Too fast on the slowest setting for handheld work,you need the attachments to use it properly, you need two hands to switch it on.Take my advice ,buy a Dremel or any decent minidrill with a one hand switch and and an adjustable speed.

 

   Ray. 

[Great Eastern]

Hi Sagaguy and Pierview,

Sorry, maybe I was wrong about the Proxxon, it's not one I've actually used, only seen.

If it's any help, my old (correction) antique Minicraft (which I bought secondhand for 3 quid about 30 years ago !!!)  also has speed problems so I run it through a transformer, normally my train one which I built, so it has enough amps, and I can vary the speed.

GE

 

Edited July 26, 2022 by Great Eastern

[Pierview]

6 hours ago, Great Eastern said:

Hi Pierview,

I think you're quite right to go for the Proxxon, they look good. 

Interesting about the Phoenix being a bit dark.  Can I ask you what greys you used for the Deltic please?

 

As far as I can remember the grey was  a standard Humbrol tinlet. I went for a light grey that seemed the best match but after all this time I am afraid that I have no idea of the number.

 

6 hours ago, sagaguy said:

I bought a Proxxon drill and kit several years ago,worst purchase I ever made.Too fast on the slowest setting for handheld work,you need the attachments to use it properly, you need two hands to switch it on.Take my advice ,buy a Dremel or any decent minidrill with a one hand switch and and an adjustable speed.

 

   Ray. 

It seems  that opinions vary but it's too late now as my wife has already bought it for my birthday!  I will see how  I get on in due course.

 

Barry 

[russ p]

I've recently built 5 Dapol mineral wagons,  but modelled them partially unloaded with open doors .

These can be moved around the coal yard but won't go mainline 

I'm quite pleased with the results 

 

 

[33C]

3 hours ago, russ p said:

I've recently built 5 Dapol mineral wagons,  but modelled them partially unloaded with open doors .

These can be moved around the coal yard but won't go mainline 

I'm quite pleased with the results 

 

 

Your goods yard is very convincing! Just as i remember my local concentration yard.

[russ p]

11 minutes ago, 33C said:

Your goods yard is very convincing! Just as i remember my local concentration yard.

 

Cheers,  my coal man who's dad used to have a business at Norwich City likes it too 

[roythebus1]

Thanks for the Blue Pullman pictures. My problem is that 2 of the power car roofs are very firmly glued on. I've loosened one but have tried using a razor saw to finish the job, but decided against it. The third power car has the roof loose fortunately, so is proving a lot easier to deal with. The one with the non-detachable roof is the problem as I can't quite work out how to glue the false floor in place and make the BB mounting screw accessible for future maintenance! I'm currently looking at making the hole under the fan grill oblong and trying to get the screw in using a screwdriver with a daub of instant gasket on the end to hold the screw to the screwdriver and trying to fit it in place through the fan vent hole which, of course, doesn't line up with the bogie centre! 

 

The part-made one will have a false roof and long screws through the floor. It had a test run at the club last week and runs well. It needs a lot of weight as it would just move itself and a trailer car! I like the idea of the magnetic couplings with the KK facility. What did you use to make those?

 

On a separate project started many years ago, motorising a Kitmaster Deltic using a Lima class 50 chassis with the bogies turned the other way round so the steps line up with the bogies! I filed the raised line sand nose whiskers off on the advice of a friend who said they aren't raised, then found they are! Then along came Bachmann. From what I remember, the Dapol kit never had the flush glaze as they calim the mould had been lost.

[33C]

Apart from the "Ronsonol" trick, a new scalpel blade, and steel rule held in place with Blue tac, to scribe along the cantrail line, will break the glue seal eventually. Or, razor cutting disc in the Dremel is very effective and quick but requires a steady hand......

[Barclay]

A shameless bump for this thread, with a picture of my completed carfloat bridge, well, the part that lifts it up and down, anyway. The two towers are from the Airfix signal gantry, 3 being required to donate sufficient parts. The result is surprisingly close to the original at China Basin, San Francisco, without being an exact replica. The rest is Plastruct girders, plasticard, and Evergreen 'siding' for the cabin. Some coffee stirrers for the timber parts, and laser cut colliery winding wheels, and (horse drawn) wagon wheels for the 'works'.