Let's see your Airfix/Kitmaster kit

[Jeff Smith]

Not Airfix or Kitmaster but I was looking for an ornament for the living room and thought of a 1/24th scale Rocket, initially inspired by a wood and metal kit from OcCre - very labour intensive and expensive, with extra for a piece of track to display it on.  Then when looking on eBay found a 1/26th plastic model, with track, from Entex.  Entex ceased trading in about 1980.  The same kit was also sold by Minicraft and AHM Gakken in different boxes.  Looking at photos of the sprues on eBay they all look as though they were from the same tooling, and all the same odd scale (more popular for diecast cars).  The box promised some replacement brass pipes but these were missing, as were the stick on nameplates.  I used the plastic pipes painted brass and had some suitable gold letter transfers (Union Pacific).  I decided to paint in a version of the alternate colour scheme suggested on the box.  Painting of the Rainhill Trials show Rocket in a largely yellow scheme but I prefer my more subtle less garish colours.  All colours used were Vallejo Model Color apart from the yellow ochre which was Averland Sunset from Citadel.  The only items added were coal and the water feed pipe from the tender.  From what I can tell the kit seems representative - wheel flanges seem oversize and at least one pipe doesn't go where it's meant to.  It's fine for a static display and may end up in an acrylic case.

 

 

 

On my P4 layout for a background.....

 

[Hacksworth_Sidings]

Out of interest, has anyone ever attempted to modify the 4MT Mogul kit to fit a 4-6-0 chassis? Given how the 4MTs came in both 2-6-0 and 4-6-0 variants I thought it interesting to look into.

 

Haven't actually done any building yet, though I've done a few measurements using a Mainline 4MT (which I'm currently trying to get rid of).

 

 

Found that the best chassis would likely be the Triang/Hornby 0-6-0 chassis, specifically the smaller variant designed for the E2, later 08 and Ivatt 2MT Mogul (mine is currently fitted with smaller Nellie wheels from a project I never picked up).

 

 

As for wheels, the early Triang Princess wheels seem to be the best for the job, the bogie also from a Triang Princess.

 

Like I said, still only a proof of concept for now, though I might end up building it in the not too distant future.

[Hacksworth_Sidings]

Should this go here?

 

 

Grandad and I are planning to make a Revell Big Boy kit together, and I’m considering motorisation options, sure it’ll likely never run on my tiny Triang layout, but it’d be a novel thing to motorise.

 

Currently considering a Hornby Ringfield bogie from a busted IC125, mounted in the tender with an unpowered bogie for pickup, all depends if we can make the loco roll smoothly though. Also worried that the Hornby motor bogie won’t have the power, but if it does then I’m tempted to give it a go.

Edited September 29, 2023 by Hacksworth_Sidings

[Jeff Smith]

The plastic wheels, axles and slide bars on my Rocket kit would barely move so you might need to lower your expectation.  It's also articulated which may not be a feature of the kit.  It would make a great static display.  25 were built, one is or was in running order, I walked around one in The St Louis Transport Museum a while ago - enormous!

[Hacksworth_Sidings]

More so just an idea than anything at the moment, if push comes to shove then I do have the chassis from a busted Tyco 2-8-0 I could look into modifying to fit the chassis, like I said though, just an idea, might build this one static to get to grips with the kit first before I go to trying to motorise it.

[33C]

3 hours ago, Hacksworth_Sidings said:

Should this go here?

 

 

Grandad and I are planning to make a Revell Big Boy kit together, and I’m considering motorisation options, sure it’ll likely never run on my tiny Triang layout, but it’d be a novel thing to motorise.

 

Currently considering a Hornby Ringfield bogie from a busted IC125, mounted in the tender with an unpowered bogie for pickup, all depends if we can make the loco roll smoothly though. Also worried that the Hornby motor bogie won’t have the power, but if it does then I’m tempted to give it a go.

Go back one page and you will see my attempt using battery driven chassis. The model as is, is not made to "roll freely". 

If I was going to do another, and never say never, I would use cut down 9F chassis, (plentiful) or Hornby 8F chassis. A 4 wheel motor bogie in the tender with plenty of weight for power.

Chief problem weirdly, was/is getting the pivot points for the chassis just so, to balance the boiler length. The tender will only need one rolling axle or it will not go round reasonable curves.

Good luck!

[Hacksworth_Sidings]

26 minutes ago, 33C said:

Go back one page and you will see my attempt using battery driven chassis. The model as is, is not made to "roll freely". 

If I was going to do another, and never say never, I would use cut down 9F chassis, (plentiful) or Hornby 8F chassis. A 4 wheel motor bogie in the tender with plenty of weight for power.

Chief problem weirdly, was/is getting the pivot points for the chassis just so, to balance the boiler length. The tender will only need one rolling axle or it will not go round reasonable curves.

Good luck!

I was actually considering something like that, though I wouldn’t go for a 9F or 8F chassis, at least not Hornby ones… 

 

A Kitmaster 9F chassis could likely be doable, easier to cut down than a Hornby one, not to mention cheaper if a Dapol one can be made to roll freely, so that’s another option, only problem I’m seeing would be the cylinder height and angle

[33C]

The "Rail King", Chinese, battery set loco's are 0.8.0.'s. (see below.) The good thing about the chassis is it can be made into any configuration as the axle holes are just simple slots. 0.4.0, 0.6.0, 0.8.0 just by removing wheels and/ or cutting new slots to give different wheel spacing. The "rods" benefit from a trim and are only attached on one axle, so no locking up. The kit wheels could be used, if you cut them from their axles and pushed them onto the battery loco axles. But, I took my route to "keep it simple"! And it will go round 1st radius curves! 

(Go to page 8 of my thread, "Cheapo train sets, get creative!" for a video of it in action.)

Edited September 29, 2023 by 33C
Added detail.

[33C]

You mention the Kitmaster/Airfix, 9F chassis. My Airfix, "Evening Star", conversion to a W.D. 2-10-0, is very free rolling and uses the "Perfecta"* motor in the tender. Do NOT use the Dapol version as the plastic is too soft for free running. I lightly oil the axles and left the rear axle unattached to the rods to allow a bit of "float", as my curves are not generous. You can use brass track pins instead of the kit pins, to connect the valve gear, as they trim very easily and make it more robust.

 

 

*Perfecta motors were designed to fit in the Kitmaster/Airfix meat wagon kits etc. to push the locomotive kits around. 

 

Hope this helps! 

[33C]

15 hours ago, Hacksworth_Sidings said:

be the cylinder height and angle

I used a razor saw and cut off the cylinder mounting blocks* flush with the frames and then glued them lower down and at the correct angle. The 9F cylinders have the slide bars mounted on them but the change of angle does not impact on the operation of the rods.

*(They could be used to mount the Big Boy cylinders?) 

[Hacksworth_Sidings]

Was running my first Prairie model just now, left hand crosshead guide decides to give out mid run and the loco pulls a Tangmere!

Rather tempted to swap the piston set out for one from the kit now…

 

Speaking of Tangmere, she’d be a nice one to have in the collection, might look into building another Bulleid…

[cypherman]

On 22/09/2023 at 20:16, Hacksworth_Sidings said:

Out of interest, has anyone ever attempted to modify the 4MT Mogul kit to fit a 4-6-0 chassis? Given how the 4MTs came in both 2-6-0 and 4-6-0 variants I thought it interesting to look into.

 

Haven't actually done any building yet, though I've done a few measurements using a Mainline 4MT (which I'm currently trying to get rid of).

 

 

Found that the best chassis would likely be the Triang/Hornby 0-6-0 chassis, specifically the smaller variant designed for the E2, later 08 and Ivatt 2MT Mogul (mine is currently fitted with smaller Nellie wheels from a project I never picked up).

 

 

As for wheels, the early Triang Princess wheels seem to be the best for the job, the bogie also from a Triang Princess.

 

Like I said, still only a proof of concept for now, though I might end up building it in the not too distant future.

Hi Hackworth. Why you trying to get rid of the 4mt. Why not get the chassis from the Triang/Hornby Ivatt 2.6.0 Crab and use that to make it a mogul

[Hacksworth_Sidings]

7 hours ago, cypherman said:

Hi Hackworth. Why you trying to get rid of the 4mt. Why not get the chassis from the Triang/Hornby Ivatt 2.6.0 Crab and use that to make it a mogul

Mainline 4MT? I bought it last year a little before Christmas, sluggish runner, doesn’t much like my Triang track either, but I still like the 4MTs, managed to get a Dublo one on the cheap earlier this year, and I prefer the 4-6-0 tender variant to the 2-6-0, so I think it’d be a fun project to attempt.

 

If I were to do the mogul I think a Triang 3MT chassis would probably be better.

[Hacksworth_Sidings]

On 07/01/2021 at 00:59, 33C said:

And 3 takes on the Truro! As they all use the "Nellie" chassis, are they "boshes!" Bottom Truro uses the Lima King tender drive.

 

Would I possibly be able to get a better look at the bottom City’s tender? Bought an Airfix kit (as, like you said, the plastic on the Dapol ones is too soft to ensure smooth running) and a busted Lima king last night as I’ve been debating building the City for some time now, managed to dig up an old City tender from one me and dad tried building a few years back, and I already have a Lima king to get basic measurements from, just wondering how I should go about modifying the tender before I go cutting into it, will likely use this damaged tender to practice fitting it to the King bogie first.

[33C]

Yes, will photograph it later today and post.

[Darius43]

Dapol (ex Airfix) Lowmac with an Oxford Diecast load.

 

 

 

Cheers

 

Darius

[westernviscount]

6 minutes ago, Darius43 said:

Dapol (ex Airfix) Lowmac with an Oxford Diecast load.

 

 

 

Cheers

 

Darius

Excellent work Darius. I am always impressed by the quality of your model paint finishes. How did you finish the lowmac? Looks superb. 

[33C]

2 hours ago, Hacksworth_Sidings said:

Would I possibly be able to get a better look at the bottom City’s tender? Bought an Airfix kit (as, like you said, the plastic on the Dapol ones is too soft to ensure smooth running) and a busted Lima king last night as I’ve been debating building the City for some time now, managed to dig up an old City tender from one me and dad tried building a few years back, and I already have a Lima king to get basic measurements from, just wondering how I should go about modifying the tender before I go cutting into it, will likely use this damaged tender to practice fitting it to the King bogie first.

Here she is. Note the high coal load. The third and fourth pictures are of my "Dukedog", motorised with a Triang class 31/37 motor bogie. Note the VERY high coal load!

[Darius43]

18 minutes ago, westernviscount said:

Excellent work Darius. I am always impressed by the quality of your model paint finishes. How did you finish the lowmac? Looks superb. 

Thank you.  I bought some U-Pol spray primer on eBay a few months ago and it has this dark grey finish as opposed to the usual light grey.  As such it is excellent for coach roofs and I used it for the overall dark grey finish to this Lowmac.  I masked and painted the timber deck in “track colour”.  Once dry and after the decals were applied, I gave the whole wagon a spray with Army Painter “anti-shine” matt varnish.

 

Cheers

 

Darius

[cypherman]

3 hours ago, Hacksworth_Sidings said:

Would I possibly be able to get a better look at the bottom City’s tender? Bought an Airfix kit (as, like you said, the plastic on the Dapol ones is too soft to ensure smooth running) and a busted Lima king last night as I’ve been debating building the City for some time now, managed to dig up an old City tender from one me and dad tried building a few years back, and I already have a Lima king to get basic measurements from, just wondering how I should go about modifying the tender before I go cutting into it, will likely use this damaged tender to practice fitting it to the King bogie first.

Hi, For motorizing your tender might I suggest the Mainline Dean Goods tender. They are not very expensive to buy off Ebay.

[Hacksworth_Sidings]

5 minutes ago, cypherman said:

Hi, For motorizing your tender might I suggest the Mainline Dean Goods tender. They are not very expensive to buy off Ebay.

I was actually considering something like that, though more along the lines of the Airfix 4F chassis under the City’s tender body (same motor design, as Mainline got the tooling for the Dean Goods from Airfix), main problem being one of pickup, if I were to do something like that then I’d likely get a busted clerestory carriage, fit with metal wheels and rig up some contacts, though as I was able to find a good deal on a Lima King I’m going to use that instead, modified to have pickups on both sides of the tender.

Edited October 1, 2023 by Hacksworth_Sidings
Added detail

[cypherman]

Hi Hacksworth.

I have never had a pick up problem with the Mainline dean Goods. They pick up on all 6 loco driving wheels. Which gives it quite a spread for the pick ups. This is the last one I got. It started life in several  of my scrap boxes. I found when I was looking for some Black 5  and Hall bits. Made a loco drive Black 5 by merging the body and chassis of the 2 engines. But that's another story. I first came across the broken loco body and as I went through my boxes more of it came to light. Had to replace things like the broken off chimney, vacuum pipes, whistles, steam dome and missing buffers etc. But it is a nice little runner when I get the chance to run it.

Edited October 1, 2023 by cypherman

[Hacksworth_Sidings]

10 minutes ago, cypherman said:

Hi Hacksworth.

I have never had a pick up problem with the Mainline dean Goods. They pick up on all 6 loco driving wheels. Which gives it quite a spread for the pick ups. This is the last one I got. It started life in several  of my scrap boxes. I found when I was looking for some Black 5  and Hall bits. Made a loco drive Black 5 by merging the body and chassis of the 2 engines. But that's another story. I first came across the broken loco body and as I went through my boxes more of it came to light. Had to replace things like the broken off chimney, vacuum pipes, whistles, steam dome and missing buffers etc. But it is a nice little runner when I get the chance to run it.

I don’t doubt that an unmodified Dean Goods runs fine, but the Airfix tender drives had plastic tender wheels, only picking up through the loco wheels, I should have worded my response in such a way that better showed off that I was referring to that, unsure of if the plastic wheels carried over to the Mainline release of the Dean Goods so please correct me on that if I’m wrong, but the lack of tender pickups due to the plastic wheels is what I was referring to, hence the choice of the Lima King motor.

Edited October 1, 2023 by Hacksworth_Sidings
Added detail

[33C]

If you want to keep it cheap, simple and to use as much of the Airfix kit as possible, use a Triang 31/37 motor bogie as shown above with my "Dukedog". Self contained and you build the loco as per kit. Do not use the Dapol version as the plastic is rather too soft for a free running loco. To make it fit inside the tender you have to smooth the sides down as much as you dare with a coarse file and hide the motor by cutting out the coal load, covering the motor with cling film, spread PVA, then coal, over and wait for it to harden. That way the motor slides in and out for servicing. 

[Hacksworth_Sidings]

2 hours ago, cypherman said:

Hi Hacksworth.

I have never had a pick up problem with the Mainline dean Goods. They pick up on all 6 loco driving wheels. Which gives it quite a spread for the pick ups. This is the last one I got. It started life in several  of my scrap boxes. I found when I was looking for some Black 5  and Hall bits. Made a loco drive Black 5 by merging the body and chassis of the 2 engines. But that's another story. I first came across the broken loco body and as I went through my boxes more of it came to light. Had to replace things like the broken off chimney, vacuum pipes, whistles, steam dome and missing buffers etc. But it is a nice little runner when I get the chance to run it.

Low and behold, one of my friends found a busted up Dean goods in their spares just now!

 

 

Been doing a bit of talking with ‘em and I miiiiiiiiiiiight do a second City now…