RMweb Gold PhilH Posted July 26, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 26, 2017 So....when will we see a 'Brian's 7mm steam workbench'....nudgenudge... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CME and Bottlewasher Posted July 27, 2017 Share Posted July 27, 2017 Windows 10? Enforced software redundancy of whats gone before and one gift horse (if downloaded free) that one should really look in the mouth of! LOL! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted July 31, 2017 Share Posted July 31, 2017 Hello Brian, if you have not done it already check your works pension and look at taking it ASAP as the way the pension things are going you could lose out. You have been allowed to take to take it after you were 55. See you at Telford? OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted July 31, 2017 Author Share Posted July 31, 2017 Hi Ozzyo Just had my first payslip from the Railway Pension, not as good as working for a living but we will get by I'm sure. Got a good lump some in the bank just waiting for for some lovely models to buy with it Got my computer back, repaired under warranty thankfully but I have to re-install some programs so will do some updates when that's done. Off on holiday first though! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
spenc Posted July 31, 2017 Share Posted July 31, 2017 Hi Brian When you did your class 33/1 have you got a close front end photo of the buffer beam area iam building a JLTRT one and the picture not very clear. Thanks Steve Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted August 1, 2017 Author Share Posted August 1, 2017 These any good Steve on my Flickr site https://www.flickr.com/photos/brianews/albums/72157627707976022 Unfortunately I can't put a picture up on here as I can't re-size it at the moment. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
spenc Posted August 1, 2017 Share Posted August 1, 2017 Hi Brian Thank you those pictures are just what i'am looking for it will be a great help, the kit is good but just let down with the pictures on the instruction sheets. Thanks again Steve Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CME and Bottlewasher Posted August 1, 2017 Share Posted August 1, 2017 I recon that the JLTRT 33 is a cracking model......also liked the photo or your slippers Brian, a man after my own heart! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted August 8, 2017 Author Share Posted August 8, 2017 (edited) Having a go at making 37692 that I named Didcot Depot back in 2002 when it was a sandite loco based at Didcot. The fitters at Didcot did a major exam on it and re-painted it in a colour they mixed themselves! I have acquired a DJH Heljan class 37 conversion kit to make the new model into an ETH one with cutaway bufferbeams. All I did was leave off the ETH. What you get in the kit are some nice whitmetal and lost wax castings, a nice set of etches and instructions. The instructions are good but I found could have done with some text to give you a hint at what to do as it's all picture based. The new bufferbeam is a whitemetal casting that is glued to the coupler casting on the chassis.As it is not load bearing glueing it is fine. The buffers supplied were whitemetal but were not drilled through. As I had a set of JLTRT ones I opted to use these. When the bufferbeam was attatched it was a tight fit into the body so I removed a bit from inside the nose as the body is quite thick here. Side grills were filed down and marked then drilled out to take the new etched grills. Steps filled in and boiler side panal removed Boiler exhaust and safety valve removed from roof New grills are made up of three etches soldered together to make a thick grill that's recessed into the cut out side. I opted to use JLTRT bufferbeam details as I had these to hand. The cut away bufferbeam etched lip is now fitted Etched steps soldered up and new details added to the bogie sideframes Details added under the valance New axlebox covers were rounded by placing a ball hammer into them and giving it a tap with another on a wood bench Speedo drive modified and the sandite filler added. The etched surround for this is actually a Pete Harvey coupling surround etch! Seen here attached to one of his etched bufferbeams I used JLTRT airpipes so I could bend them upwards to attach to chains on a lost wax ring in the front. These rings are removable so I can remove the body! Headcode was filed flat and one of two sizes of etch supplied attached. The cast marker and headlight needed drilling out. The original LED lights shine through these adequately. I have added a new bright white LED for the headlight with a hole drilled through the font that thankfully misses anything important on the PCB. New lost wax lampirons are supplied. There will be a bit more cleaning up to do after it's in primer that's a fact. I will leave it like this for the time being as I will have it at Telford so people can see what's been done with it in this colour. Edited August 8, 2017 by brian daniels 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Hal Nail Posted August 8, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted August 8, 2017 Meanwhile, who's this photo-bombing on the left?! 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted August 8, 2017 Author Share Posted August 8, 2017 Damn,can't go anywhere incognito! I have a picture very similar surprisingly. I thought whilst it was there I might as well take some close ups, you never know when you will need them. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CME and Bottlewasher Posted August 8, 2017 Share Posted August 8, 2017 Having a go at making 37692 that I named Didcot Depot back in 2002 when it was a sandite loco based at Didcot. The fitters at Didcot did a major exam on it and re-painted it in a colour they mixed themselves! I have acquired a DJH Heljan class 37 conversion kit to make the new model into an ETH one with cutaway bufferbeams. All I did was leave off the ETH. 37692 Didcot #4 23-11-02.jpg What you get in the kit are some nice whitmetal and lost wax castings, a nice set of etches and instructions. pinky05.jpg The instructions are good but I found could have done with some text to give you a hint at what to do as it's all picture based. pinky06.jpg pinky01.jpg pinky02.jpg pinky03.jpg pinky04.jpg pinky07.jpg The new bufferbeam is a whitemetal casting that is glued to the coupler casting on the chassis.As it is not load bearing glueing it is fine. pinky09.jpg pinky10.jpg The buffers supplied were whitemetal but were not drilled through. As I had a set of JLTRT ones I opted to use these. pinky08.jpg When the bufferbeam was attatched it was a tight fit into the body so I removed a bit from inside the nose as the body is quite thick here. pinky11.jpg Side grills were filed down and marked then drilled out to take the new etched grills. pinky12.jpg Steps filled in and boiler side panal removed pinky13.jpg Boiler exhaust and safety valve removed from roof pinky14.jpg New grills are made up of three etches soldered together to make a thick grill that's recessed into the cut out side. pinky15.jpg I opted to use JLTRT bufferbeam details as I had these to hand. The cut away bufferbeam etched lip is now fitted pinky16.jpg Etched steps soldered up and new details added to the bogie sideframes pinky17.jpg Details added under the valance pinky18.jpg pinky19.jpg New axlebox covers were rounded by placing a ball hammer into them and giving it a tap with another on a wood bench pinky20.jpg Speedo drive modified and the sandite filler added. The etched surround for this is actually a Pete Harvey coupling surround etch! Seen here attached to one of his etched bufferbeams pinky23.jpg pinky21.jpg I used JLTRT airpipes so I could bend them upwards to attach to chains on a lost wax ring in the front. These rings are removable so I can remove the body! pinky22.jpg Headcode was filed flat and one of two sizes of etch supplied attached. The cast marker and headlight needed drilling out. The original LED lights shine through these adequately. I have added a new bright white LED for the headlight with a hole drilled through the font that thankfully misses anything important on the PCB. New lost wax lampirons are supplied. pinky24.jpg There will be a bit more cleaning up to do after it's in primer that's a fact. I will leave it like this for the time being as I will have it at Telford so people can see what's been done with it in this colour. Nice work Brian......that loco looks very pink! DJH instructions have great photos, but the lack of text can be a chore-most others' destructions (yes that reads right) are t'other way around! Hopefully if anyone can make sense of it you can....cracking project! ATVB CME Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted August 14, 2017 Author Share Posted August 14, 2017 (edited) Nearly there with the 4TC. Did a bit of weathering on it recently. . That corner handrail has been sorted since it showed up like this on these pictures. Had these transfers made by Precision Labels. Why does my old Combined Volume list these as Class 491 but when they re-numbered them they were Class 438? Jumpers still work ok with their magnets. BSK Interior. Edited August 14, 2017 by brian daniels 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CME and Bottlewasher Posted August 14, 2017 Share Posted August 14, 2017 Cracking Brian, superb in fact! May I ask who's tell-tale castings are those, CPL do some very nice one's but yours look different? Many thanks, ATVB CME Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted August 14, 2017 Author Share Posted August 14, 2017 They are CPL ones but the tel tail on it only covers half the length so I soldered a piece of brass strip full length on it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium boxbrownie Posted August 15, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted August 15, 2017 (edited) You're an artist Brian............stunning. How many sheets of paper did you put in the toilet dispenser? Edited August 15, 2017 by boxbrownie 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CME and Bottlewasher Posted August 15, 2017 Share Posted August 15, 2017 You're an artist Brian............stunning. How many sheets of paper did you put in the toilet dispenser? There arent any sheets of TP, which is prototypically BR, .......Brian might need to errr 'weather', Mr Crapper's device a bit more too?!! Ha Ha! They are CPL ones but the tel tail on it only covers half the length so I soldered a piece of brass strip full length on it.Hi Brian, Very neat-I didnt recognise them, very nicely done though!...... Kind regards to all, CME Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silverstreak Posted August 24, 2017 Share Posted August 24, 2017 Nice work Brian......that loco looks very pink! DJH instructions have great photos, but the lack of text can be a chore-most others' destructions (yes that reads right) are t'other way around! Hopefully if anyone can make sense of it you can....cracking project! ATVB CME Brian I was tempted to source a Heljan 37 and the DJH detailing pack but bottled out in the end. So Im keeping an eye on the progress of this project to see just how big a mistake it was in not going for it Regards Bob Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CME and Bottlewasher Posted August 24, 2017 Share Posted August 24, 2017 Peter does a conversion/detailing kit at PHD too. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Harvey Posted August 24, 2017 Share Posted August 24, 2017 http://www.phd-design-etchings.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=221 http://www.phd-design-etchings.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=220 http://www.phd-design-etchings.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&path=25_35_67&product_id=219 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silverstreak Posted August 24, 2017 Share Posted August 24, 2017 Well I was not aware that Pete Harvey did It should be quality as I used his Detailing kit for my Heljan Deltic. Plus he did a great one off etch to enable me to replace the moulded on bodyside window surrounds All great stuff Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Solderpete Posted August 28, 2017 Share Posted August 28, 2017 They think it's all over, it is now! Final day at work today working a car train from Morris Cowley to Didcot and I am now redundent. As I am 59 I am taking early retirement as well as I think 43 years on the footplate is enough. Takes the P*ss a bit a company that makes people redundant then advertises for drivers but there you go I'm sure they know what they are doing Anyway more time for modelling as you can see I have let this go a bit. Great move Brian. I'm certain you will very busy and so won't miss driving at all. I know I don't. See you at Telford. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted September 6, 2017 Author Share Posted September 6, 2017 A week before Telford I took delivery of a JLTRT class 47 kit to do as 47004 in it's two tone green with ploughs. Once you open the box and tip all the foam packing out this is what you get. 10 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted September 6, 2017 Author Share Posted September 6, 2017 (edited) First thing I did was to solder up the bogie pivots. To stop the 8BA nut getting slack inside I have since this picture was taken soldered them onto the inside face of the pivot. The bogies are made to take a Slaters motor/gearbox without any mods so as I just happened to have two in the draw that is what I am using. I am also using Roxey 3'9" wheels as I had these already as well. Sideframes pushed into position. A slight oversight is that the gear is in the way of the end stretcher so a slot has to be filed into it to clear the gear. As the Roxey Wheels are insulated on one side only I am using the bearings on one side as the pick ups. So to help soldering the wires I drilled and soldered a piece of 1mm wire on the bearings down one side, this also makes a good anchor for a croc clip to clean the wheels. A small recess will need filing into the frame to accommodate the 1mm wire on the bearings. To stop the middle bearings rotating and provide some springing I copied this idea from Cliff Williams. A small piece of tube is soldered onto the end of the bearing and a piece of phosphor bronze wire threaded through it and soldered to a brass plate that is screwed to the inside of the frames. Edited September 6, 2017 by brian daniels 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted September 6, 2017 Author Share Posted September 6, 2017 (edited) The bodysides are attached by 3 screws each side that go into brass collets that have to be pressed into the holes in the bodysides.. The centre screws are longer as they have to pass through the water tanks. Unfortunately these are a larger diameter than the other two but all the brass collets were the same size in the kit. Thankfully I had some spares from previous kits! Edited September 6, 2017 by brian daniels 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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