RMweb Gold uk_pm Posted December 3, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 3, 2017 Thank you,quite easy,painted the seat a pale grey then made a mask from some fine brass mesh folded over the seat,a quick blast of black pointing straight at the base then seat back and your done. Can't take credit for it as I saw it done in an MRJ article years ago,hope that helps you out. Rob You make it sound terribly easy, but I bet it isn't. Thank you for sharing it though. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CME and Bottlewasher Posted December 4, 2017 Share Posted December 4, 2017 I, for one, would like to know more about the 'Chinese gearbox and motor', as we know Mashima are no more. Info on details and progress reports would be most welcome Brian. With thanks, CME. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BR_Blue_1986 Posted December 4, 2017 Share Posted December 4, 2017 I did do an MMP bogie conversion but can't remember what I did with the sideframes unfortunately. No problem, there has been been many conversions but no one seems to have the original Heljan ones they took off the loco. If they do reappear please let me know Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CME and Bottlewasher Posted December 4, 2017 Share Posted December 4, 2017 (edited) No problem, there has been been many conversions but no one seems to have the original Heljan ones they took off the loco. If they do reappear please let me know I have but I dont want to let them go just yet. Have you checked with Howes just in case they have any? Re 'many conversions', Ive only ever seen Brian's, when out and about (and in mags), and as hes a fast worker and Im not, so Im part way through mine. Kindest CME. Edited December 4, 2017 by CME and Bottlewasher Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BR_Blue_1986 Posted December 4, 2017 Share Posted December 4, 2017 I have but I dont want to let them go just yet. Have you checked with Howes just in case they have any? Re 'many conversions', Ive only ever seen Brian's, when out and about (and in mags), and as hes a fast worker and Im not, so Im part way through mine. Kindest CME. Many may have been the wrong phrase to be honest although I have seen a few people doing the conversions, even the person I sold my old set of Heljan sides to when I did a 57 conversion can't seem to help me. Howes have none at all and the MMP ones have run out. I'm pretty much up a certain creak without a paddle, haha. If you ever need to let them go please do let me know, I'd be eternity grateful. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CME and Bottlewasher Posted December 4, 2017 Share Posted December 4, 2017 (edited) Many may have been the wrong phrase to be honest although I have seen a few people doing the conversions, even the person I sold my old set of Heljan sides to when I did a 57 conversion can't seem to help me. Howes have none at all and the MMP ones have run out. I'm pretty much up a certain creak without a paddle, haha. If you ever need to let them go please do let me know, I'd be eternity grateful. Hi, Okay, I understand. I really must finish the HJ47. Ping me a PM as I go through those every few months (house-keeping) and that will remind me that you need some. BTW theyre £400 a pair, £800 lot, with a 10% discount and free P&P if all four are bought at the same time (market forces and all that) In all seriousness Im a fair guy......a slow model-maker and forgetful, but fair and kind. Kindest regards, CME Edited December 4, 2017 by CME and Bottlewasher Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Hal Nail Posted December 6, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 6, 2017 (edited) I did do an MMP bogie conversion but can't remember what I did with the sideframes unfortunately. You sold them to me! Still haven’t got round to using them but am still intending to one day. Edited December 6, 2017 by Hal Nail Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted December 24, 2017 Author Share Posted December 24, 2017 Since November I have had a cold and a cough that just will not clear up. The cough finally went Monday so have just got the sniffles to get rid of sooner rather than later I hope. Feeling like this meant I was not in the mood to do much, if any, modelling. But I have fired up the iron this last week and got on with a bit on my Dave Andrews West Country. One problem to overcome still is the running as it's running as though it has a binding rod but I can't find any tight spots. I have run it on a rolling road for 40 minutes to see if it would run in but to no avail. I am loathed to open the rods a bit as I can't see any binding when the rods go over the horizontal at the 9 and 3 o'clock positions, but I take it there must be! Deflectors are only placed for effect at the moment. These tenders take as long as the loco to build! I have noticed that the top of the tender is a bit lower than the cab and as you can see the wheels are a bit high through the axlebox holes. Looks like a bit of packing is required between the chassis and body. I had to remove a bit of the loco chassis under the cab so it would clear a bracket under the cab floor, the bit with the nut for securing the rear of the chassis too, bit of an oversight in the kit design. 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CME and Bottlewasher Posted December 24, 2017 Share Posted December 24, 2017 (edited) Hi Brian, Sorry to hear of your health challenges-such really knocks your model-making mojo. Re the loco binding (and Im probably teaching granny to suck eggs-sorry), have you tried breaking the loco back down into sections (not sure how easy that is for the coupling/driving rods etc) again and through a process of elimination checking each aspect for the binding? Ive found with binding, running-in doesnt always help. Hope that it all comes good and that you continue to recover your health. Kindest regards and warm wishes, with the seasons greetings to you and yours and all here. M. Edited December 24, 2017 by CME and Bottlewasher Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted December 30, 2017 Author Share Posted December 30, 2017 Done a bit more over the festive period. Got the castings on the tender but still have to do the lights on the rear. Now I have started on the valve gear it throws up one problem in that the pin that holds the con rod in the crosshead is in the way of the vertical arm stopping it from passing over it. I have put the water filler in the hole in the etch where it's supposed to go but I think that unless there is a water filter filler then this main tank filler should be towards the rear of the tank top as in the picture of one on preserved 34053. 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CME and Bottlewasher Posted December 30, 2017 Share Posted December 30, 2017 Done a bit more over the festive period. Got the castings on the tender but still have to do the lights on the rear. wc01.jpg Now I have started on the valve gear it throws up one problem in that the pin that holds the con rod in the crosshead is in the way of the vertical arm stopping it from passing over it. wc03.jpg I have put the water filler in the hole in the etch where it's supposed to go but I think that unless there is a water filter filler then this main tank filler should be towards the rear of the tank top as in the picture of one on preserved 34053. wc02.jpg wc04.jpg Hi Brian, Hows the rough running-is it related to the pin issue? Kindest, CME. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted December 30, 2017 Author Share Posted December 30, 2017 Running is better, whilst taking wheels off I found a small pip on the back of one that the plungers where catching on so after rubbing it down it is a lot better. Haven't run it since I added this valve gear as it won't do a revolution until I decide what to do with that crosshead pin. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted December 31, 2017 Share Posted December 31, 2017 Running is better, whilst taking wheels off I found a small pip on the back of one that the plungers where catching on so after rubbing it down it is a lot better. Haven't run it since I added this valve gear as it won't do a revolution until I decide what to do with that crosshead pin. Hi Brian, I do not think it is the crosshead pin that is at fault, looking at some photos of the real thing, it looks like the vertical rod has a distinct curve right at the top where it meets the bracket off the footplate. Regards, Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted December 31, 2017 Author Share Posted December 31, 2017 Looking at this picture Martyn the vertical link is straight with no kink in it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted January 1, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 1, 2018 HNY folks. I think Bulleid had a solution to the crank pin issue...inside chain driven valve gear. ;-p Glad I won't have this issue when I eventually get around to building my Finney7 Bulleid. Regarding your tender tank filler, I'll have a look at photos later today. Looks like a 5500gal tender to me. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted January 1, 2018 Share Posted January 1, 2018 Looking at this picture Martyn the vertical link is straight with no kink in it. Hi Brian, Oh right probably my poor eyesight again, in that case how close is the crosshead away from the face of the front crank rod pin? I can remember riding behind a West Country on the Watercress line a while back and looking along the engine the union link was very prominent whilst in motion. Regards, Martyn.. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Killybegs Posted January 1, 2018 Share Posted January 1, 2018 looking at the photo of the prototype, the mounting for the union link appears to project much further than the cross head, thereby giving clearance for the 'vertical link'. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted January 2, 2018 Author Share Posted January 2, 2018 Well I have got one side sorted I think. Basically I bushed out the valve gear to force it outwards over the crosshead pin. I also filed a bit off the pin and it now clears. Will give it a run on my club layout in a couple of weeks by which time I should have done the other side and tidied up the solder joints. Added a few bits to the body as well now, that was until my Proxon drill made a loud pop as I turned it on and no revolutions after that. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted January 2, 2018 Author Share Posted January 2, 2018 Also finished the tender over the last couple of days. It was fun doing those lights and steps on the back! One thing of note with Sidmnouth is that the handrail on the top of the end steps is opposite to most other West Country tenders for some reason, these being inboard whereas most others they are outboard. I moved the filler to the rear as per pictures I have of 34053 as I believe it was in the forward position, as per the etched locating hole, only when they had the extra filler for water softening. Found this picture of Sidmouth on the net showing the odd handrails. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CME and Bottlewasher Posted January 2, 2018 Share Posted January 2, 2018 (edited) Most of the time one starts with the 'easier' part of the job, the Tender.....LOL! The Tender looks as complex as a six wheel loco! Nice work Brian. Edited January 2, 2018 by CME and Bottlewasher Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
84B Oxley Posted January 2, 2018 Share Posted January 2, 2018 Brian Coming along nicely, I finished one of these just before Xmas, mine has the 4500 gal tender. A superb kit with loads of 'fiddly' bits, like the tender lighting. The loco lighting is just as much fun, the conduits and wiring seem to have been slightly different on each loco, even in preservation days. The biggest problem I had with mine was with the pony truck as the injectors foul it; move the truck forward a bit to clear and the ashpans cause the same problem! A very fine balancing act. Looks like you have this pleasure yet to come! The end result is a lovely model, mine is done as 'Westward Ho' because my wife comes from that area. A shame that this kit is no longer available, I think I had the last one. Photograph shows it running at Preston last Saturday. Jeff 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted January 2, 2018 Author Share Posted January 2, 2018 Looks fantastic Jeff. I have had mine running round my clubs layout with the front bogie wheels in the standard place but I will run it on a couple of other layouts to see what happens. I am concerned with the little splashers over the rear bogie wheels shorting. I have had to remove a bit of the rear frames to clear the rear pony wheel and still think it might need a bit of extra fettling back there especially when I get some pipework on back there. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
84B Oxley Posted January 2, 2018 Share Posted January 2, 2018 Brian Sometimes you have to be pragmatic.........I took the bogie wheel splashers off after a few trial runs, not worth the bother. So far, nobody has noticed (but they all will now!) Jeff Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted January 7, 2018 Author Share Posted January 7, 2018 Bit more done, pipe work, handrails, electric generator etc.Got a set of etches from Finney7 to build the wheel centres up as the Slaters ones are bit too recessed. 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAD Posted January 7, 2018 Share Posted January 7, 2018 Hi Brian, Lovely piece of work. Good to see that you build propper engines sometimes! The Finney overlays for the wheels look very nice. Just an observation though. The valve rod on the right side is sloping, so is the hanging link bracket set too low or has it come adrift? Cheers, Peter Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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