brian daniels Posted January 7, 2018 Author Share Posted January 7, 2018 That valve rod annoys me a bit but I just can't see why it's sloping like that. The hanging bits it's attached to are hanging the same amount both sides. I will change the top feed pipes as these are a bit thin now I look it more. All the wheel inlays are on now, that was my little job this afternoon to dismantle all the valve gear to fit these Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Holt Posted January 7, 2018 Share Posted January 7, 2018 (edited) That valve rod annoys me a bit but I just can't see why it's sloping like that. The hanging bits it's attached to are hanging the same amount both sides. I will change the top feed pipes as these are a bit thin now I look it more. All the wheel inlays are on now, that was my little job this afternoon to dismantle all the valve gear to fit these Brian, The injector delivery pipes should be a scale 2.25" O/D. Also, they should pass vertically through quite large diameter (3.5", say) holes near the back of the running plate rather than passing through the gap between the boiler and the rear edge of the running plate. Dave. Edited January 8, 2018 by Dave Holt Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deano747 Posted January 8, 2018 Share Posted January 8, 2018 Fantastic work, Brian! Regards, Deano. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAD Posted January 8, 2018 Share Posted January 8, 2018 Brian, The injector delivery pipes should be a scale 2.25" O/D. Also, they should pass vertically through quite large diameter (3.5", say) holes near the back of the running plate rather than passing through the gap between the boiler and the rear edge of the running plate. Dave. Hi Brian, Here's how the pipes go through the running plate on Canadian Pacific. And my rendition on my Acorn RB Merchant Navy. Hope these help. Is there any way to raise the fixing brackets to level the valve rod? It would be a shame to leave it like that on such a fantastic build. To me that grates even more than the thin delivery pipes, which I did not spot until you mentioned it. Dave, What ever you spot that is wrong on my MN, it's way too late for my to correct, although I could invest in the Finney 7 overlays to improve the wheels. Cheers, Peter 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Holt Posted January 8, 2018 Share Posted January 8, 2018 (edited) Dave, What ever you spot that is wrong on my MN, it's way too late for my to correct, although I could invest in the Finney 7 overlays to improve the wheels. Cheers, Peter Peter, it looks very good to me. You wouldn't believe how awkward those delivery pipes are under the running plate as they wiggle past the valve gear support bracket and other obstructions, with umpteen almost inaccessible union joints - an absolute nightmare to assemble and make steam tight! Dave. Edited January 8, 2018 by Dave Holt Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold jcarta Posted January 8, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 8, 2018 Brian Looks stunning ...... Can't wait to see it painted and pulling the 8+ coach stock.. Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted January 8, 2018 Author Share Posted January 8, 2018 Valve rod has been tweaked and is now a bit better. And I have found some 1.3mm copper wire that should make the water feed pipes better. All the valve gear is also now finished, just need to run it to see what falls off, shorts or locks up! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted January 13, 2018 Author Share Posted January 13, 2018 I have done all I can on the loco until I am sure it runs ok. Ran it last week and a few shorts, especially the brake rodding behind the centre wheel so I cut it off as it could not be pushed back out of the way as it was up against the springs on the chassis. You can't see it's missing. Had a short on the front bogie wheel on the cylinder as well. And then a wheel came undone, don't you just love these Slaters wheels. I still need to add the cylinder drain pipes but that can wait until it runs ok. Also have the backhead to do. 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted January 13, 2018 Author Share Posted January 13, 2018 Got a Heljan 20 last week so have been adding the snow plough and painted the buffer shanks silver. 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fay Posted January 13, 2018 Share Posted January 13, 2018 Looking good Brian, is this just a flirtation with steam or will others follow Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobster Posted January 13, 2018 Share Posted January 13, 2018 Superb West Country Brian. Cheers, Bob. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted January 13, 2018 Author Share Posted January 13, 2018 (edited) I do have these funny turns now and again Steve. I have about a dozen steam locos at the moment and have a JLTRT 2251 to build in a draw. I will no doubt do some more as I like anything to be honest. Does look the part doesn't it Bob. I will give it another run on my friends layout next week to see if it shorts again. Edited January 13, 2018 by brian daniels 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Harvey Posted January 13, 2018 Share Posted January 13, 2018 I do have these funny turns now and again Steve. I have about a dozen steam locos at the moment and have a JLTRT 2251 to build in a draw. I will no doubt do some more as I like anything to be honest. Does look the part doesn't it Bob. I will give it another run on my friends layout next week to see if it shorts again. Don't for get wagons to build as well Brian! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted January 13, 2018 Author Share Posted January 13, 2018 Thanks for reminding me Pete 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
84B Oxley Posted January 13, 2018 Share Posted January 13, 2018 (edited) Brian West Country looks the business but sorry to tell you that I think you have the eccentrics on the centre drivers in the wrong position, they should be behind the centreline of the axle, not in front. I'm probably not explaining myself very well but have a look at this photo and, hopefully, you will see what I mean. Should be very easy to sort. Once you have the cylinder drains on you may find that they interfere with the swing of the bogie wheels, leading to derailments. I had to tweak mine on Westward Ho. Jeff Edited January 13, 2018 by 84B Oxley Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted January 13, 2018 Author Share Posted January 13, 2018 Oh bu**er should have looked at my own pictures a bit closer. Never mind better to sort it out now rather when it's painted. That's another reason I haven't put those drain pipes on yet! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAD Posted January 13, 2018 Share Posted January 13, 2018 Hi Brian, Very nice work. Glad you were able to tweek the valve rod. I agree with Jeff, the return cranks should be behind the wheel centre not ahead of it. I assume the position of the Speedo crank is only temporary as you have not connected the drive, as the crank should be in line with the centre of the wheel. Cheers, Peter Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted January 13, 2018 Author Share Posted January 13, 2018 Yes speedo not hooked up yet just waiting until I can get it to run right before hooking it up. Just twisted the cranks round, sorted. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted January 13, 2018 Share Posted January 13, 2018 Looking good Brian, is this just a flirtation with steam or will others follow Steve, Brian's being very modest, have a look at the steam locos he has already built on his Flickr account, you'll be surprised... Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted January 19, 2018 Author Share Posted January 19, 2018 As the Bristol show is looming I thought I better do these flange lubricator boxes on 37425 that I had 3D printed some time ago. There are a few .5 holes needed drilling but I still could not do all the pipe runs coming out as there just was not enough room. Think it looks the part but just wondering how well it will show when it's painted. I think some gentle weathering will be needed to highlight it. And this is what it's supposed to be. 12 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted January 20, 2018 Author Share Posted January 20, 2018 Finished the backhead for the West Country. Hope it's right as I did not have any pictures to go by just the instructions in the kit. 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted January 20, 2018 Author Share Posted January 20, 2018 Did some weathering today starting with blending in the flange lubricator box on 37425. Then some light weathering on 37692. Don't seem to remember this loco very grubby as it only did sandite work. I have sprayed some cream around the bogie at No2 end to represent the sandite that got thrown up. It looks a bit rough but this is how I remember it after basically being sandblasted as it laid it on the rail head. And finally 20162 with ploughs. 11 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CME and Bottlewasher Posted January 20, 2018 Share Posted January 20, 2018 Love the large logo 37 and the Dutch livery.....thats how I remember em, wish Id paid more attention at the time! Superb work Brian! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr Gerbil-Fritters Posted January 21, 2018 Share Posted January 21, 2018 Brian, superb work as ever. The backhead looks pretty good, here are a couple of images of BoB Sir Archibald Sinclair from the Bulleid Society website for comparison. Scroll down the New page for the originals. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted January 23, 2018 Author Share Posted January 23, 2018 Had a go at converting a Heljan 42 to a North British 43. The rad grill on the roof was a Pete Harvey etch with three etches to solder together to raise it up. I did not think the mesh ontop looked quite right as it went over the extended walkways but looking at pictures now it looks like these were at a lower level. I re-used the Heljan mesh and cut their's and glued it lower in the extended walkways. After filling the exhaust holes I drilled new ones to go with some etches I found in mt spares box from a DJH Deltic I think. The tail lights are from the front of a pre-production JLTRT Clayton I had part built before JLTRT re-done it so I put this in the parts box for re-use one day. The etched shed plate backing on the bufferbeam is from a DJH 03. The moral of this loco is, don't ever throw anything away that you get left with from kits 14 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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