brian daniels Posted August 28, 2018 Author Share Posted August 28, 2018 Correct me if I am wrong but the wee figure in your pictures with the back pack is a mini Brian is it not? Marvellous work as ever. I envy your productivity. Martin Long Yes Martin it is me I don't know why but since I retired I think my productivity has gone down! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted August 28, 2018 Author Share Posted August 28, 2018 CPL are still around, aren't they? CPL are still about but the couplings I used are from C&L as they are wagon style and not loco heavy duty ones on a PWM. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted September 3, 2018 Author Share Posted September 3, 2018 Had a good time at Telford and a big thanks to everyone that came by to say hello and a chat. The only things I bought were a set of bogies for my Warwell with the warrior on it and an 86 kit from PRMRP. Should finish some other projects first before starting this. It will be 86015 with an original pantograph from Judith Edge. 12 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted September 5, 2018 Author Share Posted September 5, 2018 (edited) So much for waiting to do this 86, I only bent it up so it would go in the box! Not an easy model to form up where the curves have been half etch away it just wants to bend either end of the etched away area. When I did fold up the bottom curves I added a piece of brass rod inside the crease to strengthen it and something to support the small inserts I made to fill the hole where the flexicoil springs would be. I will us filler and a bit of rubbing down to get a nice curve on here. I cut the cab sides off the main etch as they would be flapping about whilst bending up the curves. I added some U channel to the back of the handrail cutouts to give them some depth. I also cut the side windows off the sides as it was easier to put the reverse curve in it and keep the windows straight. Had to open out a bit in the floor to take the handrail cover now. On the rear bulkheads I cut out the flat etched bits where a fire extinguisher sits and a cooker in the larger one. I kept looking at the top of the sides and was not happy with the turn over at the top so I removed the turned down bit by opening it up and folding it back until it snapped off. Then I flattened out the top crease and soldered the broken off bit back vertically. First attempt at fold. Second attempt, much better. Because the roof curve is half etched at the back between some uprights it sinks in when bending, don't know if I can fill them and rub down flush. Edited September 5, 2018 by brian daniels 11 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted September 5, 2018 Share Posted September 5, 2018 I really dislike half etch curves. More trouble than they are worth. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted September 5, 2018 Share Posted September 5, 2018 Yes, had much the same problem on the Brit tender I made a start on. However....looking at REAL locos, we would really struggle to model the actual bends, waves, dings and such on panels, especially those on modern image stock built around a skeleton. Leave it, it looks realistic. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted September 5, 2018 Share Posted September 5, 2018 Yes, had much the same problem on the Brit tender I made a start on. However....looking at REAL locos, we would really struggle to model the actual bends, waves, dings and such on panels, especially those on modern image stock built around a skeleton. Leave it, it looks realistic. But it doesn't. Never looks right. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted September 25, 2018 Author Share Posted September 25, 2018 Done a bit more on the 86. Made up the headcodes and drilled them out to take a 3mm LED. I have tacked the fronts and window frames but seem to have a problem getting a good fit of the cab roof. Just making the basic bogie up at the moment. 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MGR Hooper! Posted September 26, 2018 Share Posted September 26, 2018 I shall be watching your Class 86 build with much interest. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
E3109 Posted September 26, 2018 Share Posted September 26, 2018 Hello Brian, very much looking forward to seeing your AL6 progress. Nice touch cutting the fire bell aperture out! I'm not sure from the photos, but the windscreens appear to be a little shallow in height, might just be a trick of the light though. I reckon my photo linked to below may be of help regarding cab front curvature, feel free etc. Seems you already have access to an 86 but if not, drop me a PM and I can photograph details and so on while at work. https://www.flickr.com/photos/barang_shkoot/7147764441/in/album-72157629690211192/ 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
E3109 Posted September 26, 2018 Share Posted September 26, 2018 Also, can I ask who makes the 86 kit, and is it pretty much the same as the similar O scale class 87 offering I've seen? Reason for asking, I recall that the definition on the grilles (on the 87 kit) wasn't that great, and the gutters that surround them were rather flat. If your 86 is from the same source, may I suggest using round wire to represent the gutters? The real ones are round in form. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MGR Hooper! Posted September 26, 2018 Share Posted September 26, 2018 Also, can I ask who makes the 86 kit, and is it pretty much the same as the similar O scale class 87 offering I've seen? Reason for asking, I recall that the definition on the grilles (on the 87 kit) wasn't that great, and the gutters that surround them were rather flat. If your 86 is from the same source, may I suggest using round wire to represent the gutters? The real ones are round in form. As the title states...PRMRP. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
E3109 Posted September 26, 2018 Share Posted September 26, 2018 Ah. Wondered what that was for, thought it might've been a modelling acronym, there's a lot of them about these days! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CME and Bottlewasher Posted September 26, 2018 Share Posted September 26, 2018 Looking good Brian. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MGR Hooper! Posted September 26, 2018 Share Posted September 26, 2018 Ah. Wondered what that was for, thought it might've been a modelling acronym, there's a lot of them about these days! At one point in time I was under the same impression. Anyone knows what PRMRP stands for? 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted September 26, 2018 Author Share Posted September 26, 2018 Hello Brian, very much looking forward to seeing your AL6 progress. Nice touch cutting the fire bell aperture out! I'm not sure from the photos, but the windscreens appear to be a little shallow in height, might just be a trick of the light though. I reckon my photo linked to below may be of help regarding cab front curvature, feel free etc. Seems you already have access to an 86 but if not, drop me a PM and I can photograph details and so on while at work. https://www.flickr.com/photos/barang_shkoot/7147764441/in/album-72157629690211192/ Just had a look through your 86 pictures and I'm sure I can make use of some of them. One thing I need to know is the size of the original V bracket on the bogie before they put the flexicoil springs on. A trip to Barrow Hill will be had in the next few weeks hopefully to measure the 85's V bracket there as it's the same as an early 86 and then get some etched. I will play about with the top of the front and side windows in the next few days to see how I can improve on it, the bottom of the roof casting could be a bit suspect as well. At the moment I am putting the basic bogie together so we can sit it on something. PRMRP stands for Prototype Replica Model Railway Products I think. These are the old RJH kits that originally Dave Parkin drew up in the late 80's and they are the only electrics out there so not much choice if you want to go AC. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
E3109 Posted September 26, 2018 Share Posted September 26, 2018 One detail that isn't very clear from photos, is that although the cabside below the windows (the main truss section) is straight, there is a very slight taper inwards towards the front on the window frame section. It isn't much and I'm not even sure it would show, even on an O gauge model but it is there. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted September 28, 2018 Author Share Posted September 28, 2018 Well with the help of a 75W iron I have re-done the window frames and got a better fit to the roofs. So with that done I have started filling the corners and lower bodyside curve. I guess I am going to have to add some primer on the filler to how good, or not, it is. To get a good fit and overhang at the front I have ended up with a gap at the rear so I think a piece of plasticard might have to be glued to the rear of the roof and filed to shape. The roof section drops in after painting and glues to the tabs that are bent in from the curved top. But in the centre it was not too straight and you could see the tabs in a gap. So I have added a strip of brass ontop of the tabs so you can't see through. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
E3109 Posted September 28, 2018 Share Posted September 28, 2018 Cracking job sir. After MGR Hooper pointed out who makes the kit, I had a look at the website and I can say with conviction after viewing their pics of finished models, that the three windscreens aren't tall enough. Strange really, as their earlier ACs look spot on! I'm on a Can job on Monday night, more than happy to take windscreen measurements if you wish. Incidentally class 86 cab roofs are made of steel, for a long time I assumed they were fibreglass but having seen one torn apart at the breakers recently, the cab roofs are definitely steel. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted September 28, 2018 Author Share Posted September 28, 2018 Now that would be nice if you could measure one, thanks. Don't suppose you could take a couple of pics of the brake blocks and rigging as there is all in the kit but I do have some whitemetal brake blocks and hangers that PRMRP do for a 47 that could be made to look more suitable I hope. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
E3109 Posted September 28, 2018 Share Posted September 28, 2018 Now that would be nice if you could measure one, thanks. Don't suppose you could take a couple of pics of the brake blocks and rigging as there is ###### all in the kit but I do have some whitemetal brake blocks and hangers that PRMRP do for a 47 that could be made to look more suitable I hope. Yes mate of course, no problem at all. I'll either pm you after Monday, or post it on your thread. Cheers. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CME and Bottlewasher Posted September 28, 2018 Share Posted September 28, 2018 Hi Brian, Looking good, do you ever line these out with wood for strength? ATVB CME Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
E3109 Posted October 2, 2018 Share Posted October 2, 2018 Hi Brian Sorry, didn't get chance to measure the windows this morning, as the locos were whipped for another service as soon as I landed at the yard. On an 86 job later in the week though, with some booked layover time so I'll do it then. Cheers. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted October 2, 2018 Author Share Posted October 2, 2018 Ok never mind, this is going to be a long term project anyway. And I'm down in Devon all this week so no progress I'm afraid. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Covkid Posted October 3, 2018 Share Posted October 3, 2018 Always admire your work Brian and look forward to seeing this beauty finished. Can i just ask about the etches in the cantrail area please ? The cruel close up photos make the rows of rivets appear concave rather than convex. Does the kit manufacturer intend you to push each rivet out with a tool maybe, or are they supposed to be concave dimples ? Great work as always Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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