RMweb Gold Bucoops Posted January 3 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 3 1 hour ago, adb968008 said: Warp drive would be a bit of a unique selling point, with Coaxial gears. Genuine Klingon couplings. Vulcan foundry prototypes goes without saying. of course the model is already here, hidden behind a cloaking device Boldly going where no model has ever been before. just what exactly am i rabbiting on about… oh beam me upto scotland. It sounds like you've already had a wee dram or two 😜 1 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold astropsidings Posted January 3 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 3 On 27/12/2023 at 01:41, TungVT said: I also recently owned Accurascale's D6704 loco. I got it working on the DCC layout and controlling it via the NCE Power Cab. It runs on OK layout, the sound is very good. However, the lighting functions as per the accompanying instructions do not work? Meanwhile for model 37402 Stephen Middlemore, I also use almost the same functions, cabin light, headlight... works well I have the same lighting problem with a 37001 version....headcode lights and tail lights don't appear to work. Switches as recommended, brightness experiments next..... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Meerkat Posted January 3 Share Posted January 3 Hi all, looking for abit of advice seems my 97301 wants to serge again, it been back twice already, seems to really slow down tho once after while speeds back up and works normal again, tho after certain point on the controller speed wise the sound cuts out, (already been back for this as well) i have to stop the train turn sound off, wait abit then the sound comes back on, do i contact AS again or keep running till dies again, it already got a new motor? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold McC Posted January 3 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 3 1 hour ago, The Meerkat said: Hi all, looking for abit of advice seems my 97301 wants to serge again, it been back twice already, seems to really slow down tho once after while speeds back up and works normal again, tho after certain point on the controller speed wise the sound cuts out, (already been back for this as well) i have to stop the train turn sound off, wait abit then the sound comes back on, do i contact AS again or keep running till dies again, it already got a new motor? Inassume the team have already discussed with you the controller and track conditions that might be causing an issue? Otherwise the best advice will be to continue that discussion as there are too many variables at play (especially if the motor etc has already been replaced) 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Meerkat Posted January 3 Share Posted January 3 10 minutes ago, McC said: Inassume the team have already discussed with you the controller and track conditions that might be causing an issue? Otherwise the best advice will be to continue that discussion as there are too many variables at play (especially if the motor etc has already been replaced) no they haven't, just about locos after sending videos, even the 92 works fine, what they said to me that it had new motor, controllers i cant afford new ones mine 2nd hand Hornby elite 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
derekdoestrains Posted January 3 Share Posted January 3 51 minutes ago, McC said: controller and track conditions that might be causing an issue? Can you provide evidence that’s got anything to do with it? The variable is the loco (well the motor), not the track! Point proven when myself and a colleague ran our BRAND NEW out the box 37’s, on the same layout, for the same time (because we were enjoying watching them go round and round filling the layout with tractor sounds) and his motor is now toast (in the same way as has been described in various places, and privately with others having issues), and mine (and my others I’ve got so far touch wood) are ok, clearly shows it couldn’t be the track or the controller! i understand this is a “minor issue” In your eyes, and the volumes you’ve sold it probably is a low percentage, but the blaming the customer’s setup isn’t the answer. Looking at the evidence you’ve already had privately from people is the way forward. The same people who gave you the info trying to help not to go against you! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold McC Posted January 3 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 3 Controllers are most definitely a factor but my reply was to continue chatting to the team who are obviosuly best placed to provide meaningful support and insight. If the motor has already been replaced it does point to ‘something more’ being amiss. I’ve seen DC controllers put out 48v, attack ships on fire off the shoulder of orion, so we remain totally open to all issues and committed, repeatedly, to making all customers happy even if the issue is a small volume one, every customer matters. 6 4 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Meerkat Posted January 3 Share Posted January 3 i no my Hornby gives out 15 to 16 volts as had my voltage meter on it ands its only a small layout compared to others Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium spamcan61 Posted January 3 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 3 Just now, The Meerkat said: i no my Hornby gives out 15 to 16 volts as had my voltage meter on it ands its only a small layout compared to others The Elite is NMRA compliant so that shouldn't be the issue. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Meerkat Posted January 3 Share Posted January 3 1 minute ago, spamcan61 said: The Elite is NMRA compliant so that shouldn't be the issue. thats only thing i got to power the track from the mains Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Islesy Posted January 3 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 3 As an aside, if the Elite is second hand, it’s a good idea to check that it’s running the latest firmware, to ensure ultimate compatibility with modern decoders. Thats not an official Accurascale comment, by the way, just advice from a fellow Elite user! 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Meerkat Posted January 3 Share Posted January 3 8 minutes ago, Islesy said: As an aside, if the Elite is second hand, it’s a good idea to check that it’s running the latest firmware, to ensure ultimate compatibility with modern decoders. Thats not an official Accurascale comment, by the way, just advice from a fellow Elite user! hiiya i just checked and mine says its on is 1.45, as far as i know that latest one?? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Islesy Posted January 3 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 3 Aye, that’s the latest, so at least that has ruled out one possibility causing the issue. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
GBRf 66 The Flying Dustman Posted January 3 Share Posted January 3 On 02/01/2024 at 00:35, jools1959 said: Has anyone had a problem with the removable roof section warping slightly? I’ve got 37423 and I’ve noticed that the roof section has a slight, but noticeable warp at the fan end, causing it to lift slightly. I’ve cured it by adding a tiny amount of black tac, but wondered if anyone else had experienced this problem? Yes my 37/4 Concrete bob roof section bowed and warped, got I touch with Accurascale and they sent me out a new roof section 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smudge617 Posted January 4 Share Posted January 4 9 hours ago, astropsidings said: I have the same lighting problem with a 37001 version....headcode lights and tail lights don't appear to work. Switches as recommended, brightness experiments next..... Chap I had in Poland which I posted about earlier with the same problem was finally solved, seems the decoder wasn't sitting correctly, one side was catching on the plugs, maybe you have a similar problem Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold TravisM Posted January 4 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 4 2 hours ago, GBRf 66 The Flying Dustman said: Yes my 37/4 Concrete bob roof section bowed and warped, got I touch with Accurascale and they sent me out a new roof section Thank you, I’ll send Accurascale support a quick email 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold astropsidings Posted January 4 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 4 (edited) 6 hours ago, Smudge617 said: Chap I had in Poland which I posted about earlier with the same problem was finally solved, seems the decoder wasn't sitting correctly, one side was catching on the plugs, maybe you have a similar problem I had the decoder out and carefully refitted it when I first ran the loco whilst trouble shooting the start up sound problem. In that case an email to Accurascale brought a quick response with a fix, before I’d seen on here that others had the same problem. At some point the body will be off for crew to be fitted and I’ll look into the lights problem further then. Curious it isn’t just mine though. Edited January 4 by astropsidings 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hminh2005 Posted January 4 Share Posted January 4 Hello In the user manuals of Accurascale class 37 locos there is the function F6- Light Loco mode. What is this function used for, please? Thanks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CUFCfan Posted January 4 Share Posted January 4 On 06/10/2023 at 13:32, mevaman1 said: I have 37026 and all of the lights have stopped working on DC. I have 6 Accurascale 37s and found that 3 of mine (37026, 37409 and 97301) had the dip switches set to the ‘For operation with a non ESU decoder’ at purchase. I use Gaugemaster handheld feedback DC controllers. When the lights on 37026 stopped, I set the dip switches to ‘For operation with the DCC blanking plate’ position. The lights on 37409 and 97301 still work but not on 37026. I attach a photo. I have swapped the blanking plug but still the lights on 37026 don’t work. As the loco is an eBay purchase, I can’t return it to Accurascale. Does anyone have any thoughts? Regards, Andrew I've come across this same issue with my 37. I've messaged Accurascale and am in the process of sending them more details, but I was wondering if either you Andrew or anybody else had any luck sorting this issue out at home? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold farren Posted January 4 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 4 Have you moved the dip switches on the blanking plate? In the photo they all look to be set to the same position. I’m sure mine were not when i first got it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium spamcan61 Posted January 4 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 4 Looks like at least one magnet has detached from the roof as well. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LMSfan72 Posted January 4 Share Posted January 4 30 minutes ago, hminh2005 said: Hello In the user manuals of Accurascale class 37 locos there is the function F6- Light Loco mode. What is this function used for, please? Thanks It changes the driving characteristics to simulate a loco without a train - i.e acceleration and momentum parameters 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CUFCfan Posted January 4 Share Posted January 4 36 minutes ago, farren said: Have you moved the dip switches on the blanking plate? In the photo they all look to be set to the same position. I’m sure mine were not when i first got it. Just confirming the post I replied to with the picture was not my 37. Here's mine with the current settings, when I first received it I didn't realise the dip switches were not set for DC running but the lights were working ok. A couple of days ago when giving some locos a run around the lights went off, that's when I had a look inside and noticed the dip switches under the blanking plate were not set for DC running. I don't know if the blanking plate switches also need to be set in any way as I have never tinkered around with them before? I guess my fault for not checking the dip switches upon first running the loco if that has blown something along the way, although I would like to think that buying a loco that's only DCC ready, you wouldn't have to worry about anything like that. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
csvt2004 Posted January 4 Share Posted January 4 I've been following the thread in regard to the sound cutting out problem. I am not a electronics expert, I was a railway signalling technician and we found complex failures by using methodical disconnections. So I thought that I would just share my experience in the hope that it may be of some value. Purchased 37027 sound fitted from Accurascale. Put on layout, pressed F1, sound started then stopped after 2 seconds. Purchased 37043 sound fitted from Accurascale. Put on layout, pressed F1, sound started then stopped after 2 seconds. Both locos would eventually fire up after standing on the layout for some time, typically around 15 min. Purchased 37051 non sound fitted from a box shifter. Purchased sound decoder from Accurascale. Fitted decoder, worked straight away no problems. But the sound was crap using just the sugar cube, so I purchased an Accurascale thrash speaker. When I fitted the new speaker it caused the same fault as on my 37027 and 37043. Sound started the cut out. So I removed the sugar cube speaker and then it burst into life. Started straight away. Then removed the sugar cubes from 37027 and 34043 and they now work fine. Accurascale seem to be saying that the speaker set up is specially designed for the speaker arrangement by esu. The speakers that I removed had a resistance reading of 2.7 ohm. So by altering the impedance of my speakers , my stay alives are now charging in under 1 second whereas before it took about 15 min. Yeah right. Sounds to me that the sugar cube speakers are out of spec. They should be 4 ohms? So is it just me? 3 class 37s and all faulty? 6 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium spamcan61 Posted January 4 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 4 (edited) The combined speaker impedance issue was pointed out by 'newbryford' a few pages back, seems ESU are OK with people relying on the chip's internal over current cut-out to protect it. It is strange that it seems to be configured so that it is unlikely to work "out of the box" edit: this post and subsequent replies:- Edited January 4 by spamcan61 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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