Tyteford Halte

[MAP66]

2 hours ago, Neal Ball said:

Authentic Great Western dynamo :-)

 

https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=509047501349230&set=a.413314100922571

 

Sorry its also not very helpful.

Thanks again for all your input Neal, the way things are going and if I'm not careful, there is a risk of me actually learning more about Auto trailers than when I started 😄

[MrWolf]

Duplicate from my own thread, but I wanted to keep things consistent.

 

More twiddly bits being fettled and fitted.

 

 

Here are the corner steps with the step itself folded up and the bits of pipework for the locomotive end of the coach:

 

 

The 0.8mm hole I drilled in the buffer beam to make fitting one of the pipes easier:

 

 

The step support arms bent up as per the instructions and drawings. The locomotive end steps on the left and the driving end steps on the right.

[MAP66]

I wasn't able to do any modelling yesterday and doesn't look likely today and perhaps even tomorrow. I've gone down with the dreaded Norovirus and feel icky and generally unwell. Hopefully it will run its course quickly and I'll be back modelling again soon. Before the vomiting and squirts started I did however manage to fit the dynamo with bits, spray all the underframe and bogies with grey primer and then with Chaos Black which is one of the War Hammer paints - sorry no image to show. Anyway, I'm looking forward to feeling better and catching up with Rob.

[Neal Ball]

7 minutes ago, MAP66 said:

I wasn't able to do any modelling yesterday and doesn't look likely today and perhaps even tomorrow. I've gone down with the dreaded Norovirus and feel icky and generally unwell. Hopefully it will run its course quickly and I'll be back modelling again soon. Before the vomiting and squirts started I did however manage to fit the dynamo with bits, spray all the underframe and bogies with grey primer and then with Chaos Black which is one of the War Hammer paints - sorry no image to show. Anyway, I'm looking forward to feeling better and catching up with Rob.

 

Hope you feel better soon.

[MrWolf]

Get well soon and it still sounds like you're ahead of me! 😃

[57xx]

Thanks to Citizen Smith for making me aware of this thread, added to my Follow list. :)

[MrWolf]

No worries comrade. 😉

[MAP66]

 

Due to unexpected events, I will be putting this project on hold for the time being. I may have opportunity in a couple of weeks from now to start it again but updates will be a bit sporadic at best until things settle down again.

Thank you all for following and my apologies for bringing this to a temporary halt just when things were getting interesting. I will be back at some point but at this moment in time, I cannot say specifically when or in what capacity.

 

Regards Mark

[MAP66]

 

Well, I’m head nurse for the Mrs for the next 8 weeks or so while she recuperates from heart surgery. I’m able to do a bit of light modelling while keeping her company watching the TV and doing puzzle books.

 

I’m picking up where I left off and am just putting up some images of the underframe and I now have the dynamo fitted. The underframe has had a rattle can spray coat of grey primer, followed by Chaos Black and finally the sole bars, truss work and all the added details received a liberal coat of Vallejo German Black Brown applied by brush.

 

Bogies to paint next and another question, can anyone tell me the correct blue for the axle box covers?

 

Dynamo now fitted and I also added 2 lengths of plastrut angle to the side trusses connecting the queen posts. I didn't like that the battery boxes were without backs so I made backs from card.

 

Loco end.

 

Drivers end.

 

 

[Neal Ball]

15 minutes ago, MAP66 said:

 

Well, I’m head nurse for the Mrs for the next 8 weeks or so while she recuperates from heart surgery. I’m able to do a bit of light modelling while keeping her company watching the TV and doing puzzle books.

 

I’m picking up where I left off and am just putting up some images of the underframe and I now have the dynamo fitted. The underframe has had a rattle can spray coat of grey primer, followed by Chaos Black and finally the sole bars, truss work and all the added details received a liberal coat of Vallejo German Black Brown applied by brush.

 

Bogies to paint next and another question, can anyone tell me the correct blue for the axle box covers?

 

Dynamo now fitted and I also added 2 lengths of plastrut angle to the side trusses connecting the queen posts. I didn't like that the battery boxes were without backs so I made backs from card.

 

Loco end.

 

Drivers end.

 

 

Excellent work, hope the Mrs is ok

[MrWolf]

Looking very good and making mine look far too clean!

I hope that Mrs M is bearing up and staying positive.

 

As for the axle boxes, I'll stick my neck out and say that I'm going with Humbrol Matt 109, which is a kind of light royal blue similar to Caledonian Railway loco livery.

[ian.dunn46]

In about which year were axleboxes painted, please?

[MrWolf]

@Adrian Stevenson posted this link to an archived topic on my Aston on Clun thread earlier, that should be informative.

 

 

Circa 1927-28 apparently.

 

 

Edited April 10, 2023 by MrWolf

[MAP66]

I managed to paint up the bogies, the blue on the axle boxes is Vallejo Prussian Blue with a bit of white mixed in, it looks about right to me. Didn’t have any Humbrol 109, so had to make do 🤔

Next, I fitted the steam and vacuum pipes to the buffer beam at the drivers end. At the loco end I’m leaving them off for now as I need to devise a cunning solution for a flexible connection to the loco with said pipes.

 

I then managed to make a start on the rodding which consists of the auto rod which is 0.8mm brass rod and the brake rodding which is 0.5mm brass. I started with the section of brake rod connecting the vacuum cylinders together, this seemed the most straight forward place to start from reference to the diagram. The diagram shows a spring hanger attached to this length of brake rod which is not part of the detailing kit. I made mine from wrapping 5a fuse wire around a short length of 0.5mm brass rod (see first image).

 

It was then necessary to refit the bogies to allow the auto coupling rod to be fitted, as the rod travels the entire length of the underframe and passes over the top of the bogies. Forget trying to remove the bogies once the auto rod is fixed in place. The auto rod also limits the turning of the bogie (drivers end) so I opted to attach this end of the rod slightly further inwards or away from the wheels. I did it in such a way that it shouldn’t be too noticeable (see second image).

I started to put the 3 auto rod hangers in and only the centre auto rod hanger is in the place stated on the diagram. The one at the loco end in my view does not allow enough space in-between where the bogie ends and the edge of the passenger steps. So, instead I located it just to the left of the battery box. The hanger at the drivers end, well there is just no room for it, so I have left this out for now.

 

The next step was to fit the brake rods from the vacuum cylinder cross shafts to each of the bogies to serve the brakes. The 0.5mm brass rod does not attach to anything at the bogies, I just cut it long enough to give an impression that it goes somewhere. I have only completed the loco end as my patience had been tested enough for one day. I’ll have a go at the drivers end tomorrow and then paint them all in.

 

DIY spring made by winding 5a fuse wire around 0.5mm brass rod.

 

I moved the brass rod slightly more inwards to where it should attach to allow more movement on the bogie.

 

Springs in place on the brake rodding

 

 

Edited April 10, 2023 by MAP66
Duplicate image

[MrWolf]

Well done Mark, I have been procrastinating over how far to take the auto rod as it precludes bogie removal, but on reflection, unless they run off the edge of the layout, the bogies are still going to be in perfect condition when we are nothing but a name on a tombstone.

So I had better get busy and finish the chassis. I know that I don't have any 5A fusewire and I'm wondering where I can buy some locally.

A coat of paint was a good idea, it makes it much easier to see what's going on.

[chuffinghell]

Very impressive stuff!

[MAP66]

39 minutes ago, MrWolf said:

Well done Mark, I have been procrastinating over how far to take the auto rod as it precludes bogie removal, but on reflection, unless they run off the edge of the layout, the bogies are still going to be in perfect condition when we are nothing but a name on a tombstone.

So I had better get busy and finish the chassis. I know that I don't have any 5A fusewire and I'm wondering where I can buy some locally.

A coat of paint was a good idea, it makes it much easier to see what's going on.

Thanks Rob,

I suddenly had some inspiration and just went for it, good job most of it isn't even in view on the underside as there are a few wonky bits, nothing a bit of paint can't sort.

I used up the last of my 5a fuse wire, not the sort of thing you need anymore. I think I had this stuff from when I used to re-wire my mums old fuses when her lights went out.

I fancy a change next, I need to come out from under the coach and might have a stab at painting the interior!

[Roy Langridge]

Worst case, Amazon still sell fuse wire. 
 

Been interesting following this thread, coming along really nicely. 
 

Roy

[MAP66]

Just a quick update tonight as I’m just reporting that I’ve now completed all the underframe rodding. A couple of images to prove it, not the prettiest thing granted, but I’m made up that I’ve got this far and it still rolls nicely along the track.

 

 

 

Primer slapped on the brass work. Next stage to make it all mucky and orrible 🙂

[MAP66]

I thought it might be of benefit, for anyone embarking on taking the detailing kit on and daft enough to add the springs to the underframe to show the one I installed at the loco end, so below is a close up. I'm not saying its correct but the drawing shows a spring at an angle and attached somehow to the crank? So this is how I did it.

 

 

I also visited the Ministry of Silly Ideas today and came away with the idea of upholstering the interior coach seating, with printed paper of course not fabric, I'm not a complete loon. I thought it would look better than just a flat colour painted on. My first experiment, looks kind of promising and the paper is just laid on and not glued just to get an idea. Have I got the patience to explore this any further? Maybe, I think I need to paint in the floor and the seat edges, panelling etc. first to get the full effect before I make a decision.

 

[MrWolf]

My thoughts on the interior are drifting towards the door for the driving compartment and the door for the luggage compartment.

 

 

Didcot Railway Society 

[MAP66]

My plan was to add these doors as part of the coach interior upgrade as they would be visible through the glazing and open gaps instead of doors looks wrong to me. I also have a plan to hide the sound decoder and speaker in the luggage compartment as I doubt if they would fit in the loco and then hide them behind some luggage. I'm sure I could figure out a non visible wiring route from the decoder back to the 14XX motor!

If I get time today I aim to get some matching colours (by mixing paints) as per the photo for all the woodwork. Looks like there's 3 colours involved, a pale colour as seen in the photo either side of the door above the waist line, a mid brown mostly used on the chair sides, doors and some panelling and the dark brown which I think was mahogany for the chair legs and window frames and reveals. Is that your take on the colours Rob?

[Keith Addenbrooke]

28 minutes ago, MAP66 said:

My plan was to add these doors as part of the coach interior upgrade as they would be visible through the glazing and open gaps instead of doors looks wrong to me. I also have a plan to hide the sound decoder and speaker in the luggage compartment as I doubt if they would fit in the loco and then hide them behind some luggage. I'm sure I could figure out a non visible wiring route from the decoder back to the 14XX motor!

If I get time today I aim to get some matching colours (by mixing paints) as per the photo for all the woodwork. Looks like there's 3 colours involved, a pale colour as seen in the photo either side of the door above the waist line, a mid brown mostly used on the chair sides, doors and some panelling and the dark brown which I think was mahogany for the chair legs and window frames and reveals. Is that your take on the colours Rob?

Thanks to @MrWolf for the interior photos - I’m not sure I’ve ever seen inside one: very useful.

 

As for Mark’s question about colours, they’re not my strong point, but to me they seem to be a fairly good match with the GWR Light and Dark Stone used for buildings? (happy to be corrected if they’re not).

 

Detailing an interior can be very satisfying - even if only you know it’s there.  If I may share an example, these are some photos of old wooden American passenger car kits from the 1950s / 1960s that my Dad detailed when he built them.  At first glance there was no obvious sign there’s an interior at all:

 

 

but then I took a closer look:

 

 

He even went as far as adding the ‘LM’ initial of his freelance road name to the seat back covers, just visible in this shot:

 

 

No wonder he’s kept these coaches all these years (don’t worry about the buffers and three link couplings on an American passenger car - Dad was in the process of switching from UK to US modelling, so ran both for a while).

 

Hope it’s OK to share these as an example of what can be done - and as they’re not mine I claim no credit of course.

 

Keep up the good work - really great to see the parallel collaboration.  Hope Mrs P is doing OK too, Keith.

 

Edited April 14, 2023 by Keith Addenbrooke

[MAP66]

Hi Keith,

Thanks for sharing those images, your Dad certainly crammed in as much detail as possible. How on earth did he manage to get his initials on the seat back covers - incredible.

 

I think you've convinced me to press on with upholstering the seating now 👍

 

A few of you have asked after the Mrs (AKA Jill) she is doing as well as can be expected, its a 12 week recovery period and today is her second week post op. The next hurdle is to get the Warfarin (blood thinning) dosage right as this is critical to avoid any blood clots. we're taking it one day at a time but keeping a positive outlook. Thanks again to everyone for asking how she's doing.

Edited April 14, 2023 by MAP66
Typo

[longchap]

Hello Mark, 

 

Thank you for creating and sharing this wonderful thread with us and like others, I have found it through the good offices of @MrWolf and am enjoying your modelling and yes, I also have several old auto-coaches waiting further detailing on the long list of fun things.

 

My best wishes to you and Jill with her recovery process.

 

Bill