Tyteford Halte

[MAP66]

A few posts ago, we were discussing wheels and the best way to get them onto axles. I did a little research into this and there seems to be a school of thought for fitting the wheels once and once only, any more than that could risk wheel wobble. That being said, I can at least attempt to get a wheel on each axle for now and then try the axle in the bushes, whereby any necessary fettling can be actioned without the need for removing the wheel again. Getting the second wheel on would then come later, as part of the stages of fitting the components for the compensated chassis.

 

Well, what about the first wheel then? Turns out, I do own a GW Tools wheel press and quartering jig, but I thought it had been thrown out by mistake a couple of years ago when we were clearing out for the house move. I then found it yesterday within a box of other stuff. I brought the wheel press at the same time as the rivet press and its never been used. Then it turned out that my wheel press was made by George on a Friday afternoon as unfortunately the crankpin alignment holes have been drilled into the wrong face of the press (opposite to where they should be). Ah well, I can’t use it as a quartering jig then, but how about for getting the wheels onto the axles? Turns out it can, and it does a good job, and it’s all shown below…

 

First, you need the wheels and axles - this is the set available from Alan Gibson and recommended for the kit as listed in the instructions. Crank pins are also required and I am again using ones from Alan Gibson  (4M42A).

 

One of the crank pins temporarily fitted, as you can see the screw head hits the rear of the wheel boss and so some careful counter sinking is required. I will be dealing with this under a later post. The wheel boss/hub could also benefit from a lead chamfer introduced  just to remove  any burr and help ease the axle in. A couple of gentle turns of the 1/8" reamer  will sort this.

 

This is the wheel press and quartering jig. 

 

 

 

Getting the first wheel on. Make sure you have the front of your wheel facing down onto the face of the press and that you have the correct length axle ready (this is  for P4 gauge). If you have already fitted your crank pin then it locates in the slot to the left of the sprung peg.

 

The wheel is moved onto the locating peg and then the axle is placed into position with one leading edge just located into the wheel boss and the other end in line with the opposite locating peg. A close visual inspection follows to ensure all is lined up and then, using just finger pressure push both halves of the press together and hey presto one wheel is firmly and squarely attached onto the axle. The press is also designed to be used in a vice but I found that finger pressure was sufficient.

 

The axle has been lined up and one wheel has already been pressed on. The axle is now shown turned upside down as the pressed on wheel is now at the top. It is set up to show how the lower opposite wheel would now be pressed on. However, that is for later in the build.

 

One side of driving wheels with axles fitted, all seem to rotate freely but I won't be able to do that incline test, as the second wheels will not be fitted until compensation and gearbox have been fitted. 

 

View from underside and note the rear horn blocks have been temporarily fitted. They need a bit more fettling as they form part of the compensated chassis set up and so are free to move up and down. It looks like they are also removable unlike the main axle hornblocks. Therefore, I will be able to fit both wheels on the rear axle without fear of needing to pull a wheel off again.

 

A final image, again showing set up for fitting the second wheel onto an axle. In reality, I would need to have the actual chassis within the wheel press and also the back to back gauge (shown in situ) lined up with the edge of the wheel flanges. Something where an extra pair of hands would certainly be of benefit.

 

Next post I am doing a bit of body shell hacking and carving to get the body to fit onto the chassis.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited November 29, 2023 by MAP66
removing images and adding corrections.

[longchap]

Ah, an interesting post Mark, containing some good news and then some not so 😲 As I use Markits self quartering wheelsets, I've yet to test my GW jig. My square axles also allow the wheels, when finely fettled, to slide easily on the axles by tightening the wheel nuts and safely off again with a wheel puller. So without having the benefit of looking at my own GW jig (in the railway room a very cold and dark walk away), I'm wondering if one could carefully mark and drill new holes on the correct face of the jig? Please forgive me if I'm wrong and I'll kick myself tomorrow when I make it into the railway room.  

 

I understand that the 90deg lead was not universally accepted across railway companies and a range greater than 100deg was not uncommon, so a strict 90deg quartering is not essential, particularly as both sides of the loco cannot be seen at the same time.

 

Bon couage,

 

Bill

 

      

Edited December 1, 2023 by longchap

[stevel]

11 hours ago, MAP66 said:

A few posts ago, we were discussing wheels and the best way to get them onto axles. I did a little research into this and there seems to be a school of thought for fitting the wheels once and once only, any more than that could risk wheel wobble. That being said, I can at least attempt to get a wheel on each axle for now and then try the axle in the bushes, whereby any necessary fettling can be actioned without the need for removing the wheel again. Getting the second wheel on would then come later, as part of the stages of fitting the components for the compensated chassis.

 

Well, what about the first wheel then? Turns out, I do own a GW Tools wheel press and quartering jig, but I thought it had been thrown out by mistake a couple of years ago when we were clearing out for the house move. I then found it yesterday within a box of other stuff. I brought the wheel press at the same time as the rivet press and its never been used. Then it turned out that my wheel press was made by George on a Friday afternoon as unfortunately the crankpin alignment holes have been drilled into the wrong face of the press (opposite to where they should be). Ah well, I can’t use it as a quartering jig then, but how about for getting the wheels onto the axles? Turns out it can, and it does a good job, and it’s all shown below…

 

First, you need the wheels and axles - this is the set available from Alan Gibson and recommended for the kit as listed in the instructions. Crank pins are also required and I am again using ones from Alan Gibson  (4M42A).

 

One of the crank pins temporarily fitted, as you can see the screw head hits the rear of the wheel boss and so some careful counter sinking is required. I will be dealing with this under a later post. The wheel boss/hub could also benefit from a lead chamfer introduced  just to remove  any burr and help ease the axle in. A couple of gentle turns of the 1/8" reamer  will sort this.

 

This is the wheel press and crank pin alignment jig. I can only use it as a wheel press, hopefully the reason why is made clear from viewing the following images.

 

The 2 halves are separated to show both outside faces together and those 2 machined holes should be on the opposite inside face. This allows crank pins to be located into the holes which are set at 90 degrees apart when the wheels are pushed onto the axle. You therefore end up with the correct right or left hand lead.

 

Assembled again, showing another view of holes wrong way round. You can also see the locating peg (which is sprung loaded) for the wheel boss. When set correctly, this ensures the wheel is not pushed onto the axle too far. I did not need to adjust mine, I found it was set perfectly.

 

Just to further illustrate that it is impossible to use the crankpin alignment feature of my particular wheel press with the holes the way they are.

 

Getting the first wheel on. Make sure you have the front of your wheel facing down onto the face of the press and that you have the correct length axle ready (this is  for P4 gauge).

 

The wheel is moved onto the locating peg and then the axle is placed into position with one leading edge just located into the wheel boss and the other end in line with the opposite locating peg. A close visual inspection follows to ensure all is lined up and then, using just finger pressure push both halves of the press together and hey presto one wheel is firmly and squarely attached onto the axle.

 

The axle has been lined up and one wheel has already been pressed on. The axle is now shown turned upside down as the pressed on wheel is now at the top. It is set up to show how the lower opposite wheel would now be pressed on. However, that for later in the build.

 

One side of driving wheels with axles fitted, all seem to rotate freely but I won't be able to do that incline test, as the second wheels will not be fitted until compensation and gearbox have been fitted. 

 

View from underside and note the rear horn blocks have been temporarily fitted. They need a bit more fettling as they form part of the compensated chassis set up and so are free to move up and down. It looks like they are also removable unlike the main axle hornblocks. Therefore, I will be able to fit both wheels on the rear axle without fear of needing to pull a wheel off again.

 

A final image, again showing set up for fitting the second wheel onto an axle. In reality, I would need to have the actual chassis within the wheel press and also the back to back gauge (shown in situ) lined up with the edge of the wheel flanges. Something where an extra pair of hands would certainly be of benefit.

 

Next post I am doing a bit of body shell hacking and carving to get the body to fit onto the chassis.

 

 

 

 

 

Me think's the screw slot is where the crankpin goes, allowing for different strokes, maybe? just a guess.

[MAP66]

10 hours ago, longchap said:

Ah, an interesting post Mark, containing some good news and then some not so 😲 As I use Markits self centring wheelsets, I've yet to test my GW jig. My square axles also allow the wheels, when finely fettled, to slide easily on the axles by tightening the wheel nuts and safely off again with a wheel puller. So without having the benefit of looking at my own GW jig (in the railway room a very cold and dark walk away), I'm wondering if one could carefully mark and drill new holes on the correct face of the jig? Please forgive me if I'm wrong and I'll kick myself tomorrow when I make it into the railway room.  

 

I understand that the 90deg lead was not universally accepted across railway companies and a range greater than 100deg was not uncommon, so a strict 90deg quartering is not essential, particularly as both sides of the loco cannot be seen at the same time.

 

Bon couage,

 

Bill

 

      

Good morning Bill,

 

That’s an Idea to re-drill the wheel press,  where the new holes would need to be are where George has put the depth adjustment screws for the wheel pegs. So I would need to drill on the other side of the wheel peg (a job for another day). Never mind, I’m not too worried, just one of those things as I said, one he made on a Friday afternoon. I’m sure your wheel press will be of the correct variety and mines still excellent for pressing the wheels on for now. From reading what others do with wheels, the quartering doesn’t need to be an exacting process as many just line up by looking through the wheel spokes and like you say, only one side of a loco is visible at any one time. Any way, I thought it would be good to share as to why, when it comes to it, my wheel quartering will also be done by eye as opposed to using the jig. 

Edited November 27, 2023 by MAP66
Typos

[MAP66]

2 hours ago, stevel said:

Me think's the screw slot is where the crankpin goes, allowing for different strokes, maybe? just a guess.

Yes, I thought this at first, but after consulting the instructions which came with the wheel press it's not the case. Thanks for thinking about it though, much appreciated.

[longchap]

6 hours ago, MAP66 said:

Good morning Bill,

 

That’s an Idea to re-drill the wheel press,  where the new holes would need to be are where George has put the depth adjustment screws for the wheel pegs. So I would need to drill on the other side of the wheel peg (a job for another day). Never mind, I’m not too worried, just one of those things as I said, one he made on a Friday afternoon. I’m sure your wheel press will be of the correct variety and mines still excellent for pressing the wheels on for now. From reading what others do with wheels, the quartering doesn’t need to be an exacting process as many just line up by looking through the wheel spokes and like you say, only one side of a loco is visible at any one time. Any way, I thought it would be good to share as to why, when it comes to it, my wheel quartering will also be done by eye as opposed to using the jig. 

 

It’s tipping down with rain, but I’ve braved it to t’other end of t'courtyard, wrung out the sogginess from one of our longer haired cats and finally got a good look at the GW Models' wheel press and quartering jig and instructions.

 

Mine is exactly the same as yours Mike and is beautifully machined and assembled. It is designed to be used either in the hand or in a vice, the latter would probably be my favoured option, since it leaves one’s hands free for doing everything else. The vice jaws sit under the rebates on the sides of the jig and as one tightens the vice the press being sprung loaded, closes precisely around the chassis to press the wheels onto the axles, together with quartering the cranks to 90deg lead. GWR has the right hand wheels leading by 90deg, while other railways may have done things quite differently.

 

With the wheel placed over each projecting stop, the crank pin sits in the slot. The slot is set at right angles to the axle centre and caters for different crank pin offsets. On the outside face of the jig, there is a tiny recessed grub screw down the hole to set the wheel stop projection.

 

Quoted from Gordon S from RMWeb, July 29, 2010: “It's very easy to use. Each jaw has a reversible sprung loaded pin for either 2mm or 1/8" and 3mm axles. Next to the pin is a slot to take the crankpin and these are preset at 90 degrees. Take one driving wheel and insert the axle just far enough to hold it in place. Chamfering the end of the axle will help insertion. Place the wheel onto the jig and align the crankpin in the adjacent slot. Add the other wheel to the other jaw and align the axle end. One they are all in place, just gently squeeze the two jaws together in your hand. I use a B2B gauge at the same time to prevent squeezing too hard and taking the B2B below your ideal figure.”

 

More back up info:

https://www.rmweb.co.uk/topic/19209-gw-models-wheel-press-and-quartering-jig/

 

Best,

 

Bill

Edited November 27, 2023 by longchap

[MAP66]

I’ve finally reached the stage in the build where the body shell is mentioned. As like it or not, chassis and body must become one. Try and fit both together without any modification and it won’t work. I started by preparing the body shell first and the instructions provide a diagram fig 8 to show the cut line required to the side of the smoke box, shown again below for reference...

 

Didn't make much sense to me, it was the sides of the splashers on the lower body section which also needed to be filed back.

 

Also, to note that the boiler/smoke box can be detached from the main body as its not glued. Turning the body upside down reveals two lugs at the smoke box end which need to be depressed to release the boiler/smokebox section from the front footplate/buffer beam. Due to the age of the plastic it is more than likely that the lugs will break off (mine did) however, when ready, this can be glued back into position without need of the lugs...

 

An oblique side view to show what's going on. I removed too much material from the insides of the splashers. Just remove a little at a time with a file and repeatedly check onto the chassis.

 

Score lines made with scalpel blade, showing what I thought needed to be removed. Turns out it was a bit too much!

 

So, getting back to the cutting diagram. It didn’t make sense to me, I cut where said and the body still didn’t want to fit. Mmm, scratches head, cup of tea and a mince pie later… I returned to the scene and on closer investigation found the culprit to be the plastic moulded splashers which were preventing the chassis from fitting. Holding the chassis as best I could within the body shell, I marked with a scalpel blade onto the underside of the splashers the material which I thought needed to be removed. In theory, it should be just over 1mm on each side if you’re thinking like me as going from 16.5mm 00 gauge to 18.83mm P4 gauge. It transpires that I was far too enthusiastic on this and removed more material than was necessary. Some carefully placed model filler will now be necessary to fill the gaps. Oh well, its all part of the learning experience and certainly not a show stopper, I will get around it. My advice on this particular stage is ‘little and often’ so file a bit and test fit so you only remove just enough material from the splashers.

 

Moving on and the resultant splasher surgery leaves a boiler without a bottom section. You now have a void to glimpse the inside motion where before was filled with plastic. So, the bottom profile of the boiler needs to be represented. For this I measured and cut a piece of 0.025mm brass sheet and rolled it by hand using an AA battery as a former for the curve. This made it slightly over size and I then formed the tighter curve required by hand rolling again over the barrel of a micron pen. This resulted in a nice curved section which slid into the underside of the boiler and partly into the smoke box. This was then super glued in place. Later, when I am ready to use the filler, the underside of the boiler will be blended in to the existing curve of the boiler profile...

 

Getting the underside of the curved boiler profile correct using my improvised tools, consisting of my fingers, an AA battery and a micron pen (other pens and batteries are available)

 

Looking down the underside of the removable boiler section of the body. Brass formed section glued in place and first layer of filler applied. Another 2 or 3 layers of filler required and then smoothed down to a perfect finish.

 

Boiler section clipped back in place, filler just visible to underside of boiler which should look acceptable when blended in.

 

The plastic work was now complete and for the chassis, it was just a case of opening up the slot a bit wider in the rear spacer to allow the plastic lug of the body to fit through and then to file some material off from parts 38 and 39 which are the front and rear supporting ribs. This allows for a snug fit of the chassis to the body. Eventually, I ended up with the body sat onto the chassis at correct height and looking square. It’s not required to be fitted at this stage but when it is the rear of the chassis is secured by a nut and bolt through the rear lug of the plastic body and the front will need another such method installed, which can only be determined at the end of the build after everything else is fitted.

 

Nearly there.

 

Finally got there 😁

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[MAP66]

1 hour ago, longchap said:

 

It’s tipping down with rain, but I’ve braved it to t’other end of t'courtyard, wrung out the sogginess from one of our longer haired cats and finally got a good look at the GW Models' wheel press and quartering jig and instructions.

 

Mine is exactly the same as yours Mike and is beautifully machined and assembled. It is designed to be used either in the hand or in a vice, the latter would probably be my favoured option, since it leaves one’s hands free for doing everything else. The vice jaws sit under the rebates on the sides of the jig and as one tightens the vice the press being sprung loaded, closes precisely around the chassis to press the wheels onto the axles, together with quartering the cranks to 90deg lead. GWR has the right hand wheels leading by 90deg, while other railways may have done things quite differently.

 

With the wheel placed over each projecting stop, the crank pin sits in the slot. The slot is set at right angles to the axle centre and caters for different crank pin offsets. On the outside face of the jig, there is a tiny recessed grub screw down the hole to set the wheel stop projection.

 

Quoted from Gordon S from RMWeb, July 29, 2010: “It's very easy to use. Each jaw has a reversible sprung loaded pin for either 2mm or 1/8" and 3mm axles. Next to the pin is a slot to take the crankpin and these are preset at 90 degrees. Take one driving wheel and insert the axle just far enough to hold it in place. Chamfering the end of the axle will help insertion. Place the wheel onto the jig and align the crankpin in the adjacent slot. Add the other wheel to the other jaw and align the axle end. One they are all in place, just gently squeeze the two jaws together in your hand. I use a B2B gauge at the same time to prevent squeezing too hard and taking the B2B below your ideal figure.”

 

More back up info:

https://www.rmweb.co.uk/topic/19209-gw-models-wheel-press-and-quartering-jig/

 

Best,

 

Bill

Nice one Bill for braving the elements and getting one-self soggy for my sake. The information you supplied from the archived thread has proved invaluable and caused a eureka moment. The sudden realisation that I have been a complete idiot in not understanding the mechanics of this tool is an actual relief. I assumed that the screws inserted into where the crank pins would locate were just screws and that in fact you use the slots of the screw head to locate the crank pin. All makes sense now but I just couldn’t get my head around it and convinced myself that the holes on the opposite face were for locating the crank pins. Very happy now and thanks again. I will need to edit some of the previous posts to remove my previously stupid assumptions 😬

 

Cheers,

Mark

[MAP66]

9 hours ago, stevel said:

Me think's the screw slot is where the crankpin goes, allowing for different strokes, maybe? just a guess.

Yep, your correct. I had a revelation and lightbulb moment after @longchap post above. Thanks for the comment and my apologies for not understanding, any way, better late than never 😀

[longchap]

I'm only sorry that I hadn't previously assessed the jig when I received it last year, otherwise I could have commented authoritatively much earlier. I actually have two Alan Gibson 0-6-0 kits in the stash, complete with his wheels and motion set-up, so the jig will indeed earn its keep in due course.

 

Crack on Mark, as I'm enjoying your build.

 

Best,

 

Bill

 

[MAP66]

1 minute ago, longchap said:

I'm only sorry that I hadn't previously assessed the jig when I received it last year, otherwise I could have commented authoritatively much earlier. I actually have two Alan Gibson 0-6-0 kits in the stash, complete with his wheels and motion set-up, so the jig will indeed earn its keep in due course.

 

Crack on Mark, as I'm enjoying your build.

 

Best,

 

Bill

 

Don't be sorry Bill, its all good and I'm looking forward to pressing on (pun intended) with the build. 

[MAP66]

It was quite an intense modelling session yesterday evening, in fact I was so engrossed within the rear end of the chassis and all its workings, that I completely forgot to document my progress with photos. Easily done when you’re on a roll. Hopefully, I’m forgiven and I will just have to subject you all to a written account with some images of how it all looks now…

 

I started with the rear wheels which needed to be pushed onto the 2mm axle (supplied with the Alan Gibson wheels). Ha, Ha I thought, I have just the tool for that. The GW wheel press comes into action again and this time using the reversible sprung loaded wheel peg to reveal the 2mm ended option.

The wheels pressed on with no issues, remembering of course to first slip onto the axle the two rear wheel horn blocks I made earlier. I wasn’t able to put any washers on the axle as it was already too short in my opinion stopping about 1mm short of the outside face of the wheel boss on each wheel. This has resulted in an under-gauge wheel but not enough to cause issue I hope.

 

The whole rear axle assembly was then slotted into the cut aways of the rear end of the inside frames and some further fettling was required to get a smooth sliding movement without any tight spots. You then solder in part 59 (the pivot carrier) between the frames and from this insert 2 lengths of 0.5mm wire which is bent to shape to retain the rear axle and prevent it from dropping out.

 

The next stage was to assemble the compensation which consisted of the pair of compensation beams, a length of 1.6mm OD tube (supplied in kit) cut into 2 equal lengths of approx. 7.5mm to fit within the frames. This is all fed onto a length of 0.8mm brass rod between the frames which I have purposefully left overlength and not soldered in for now. I soldered the left and right handed beams onto the pieces of tube first. Once everything was in place, I checked for smooth operation of the beams against the driven axle bushes and the rear horn block assemblies. There was a slight tight spot causing the left hand beam to stick occasionally. The culprit was identified as a blob of raised solder along the top of the driven axle horn block guide which was catching the beam.

 

However, it was getting late, so I Will leave the dis-assembly of the compensation so that I can file off that blob of solder for another day. This will not be such a pain as it all comes apart, due to not soldering in the 0.8mm rod between the frames – a good call it turns out.

 

So, a few images showing how it all looks now and its assembling the brake gear next...

 

An upside down view. Below the beam you can see the 2 lengths of brass tube, all held in place by the length of brass rod cut over length and not yet soldered in. In view are also the 2 wires bent to prevent the rear axle from dropping out. I have installed the rear axle to be fully compensated. There are also options for a rigid axle or  semi-rigid.

 

A closeup view of the end of the beam acting onto the top of the driving axle bush.

 

Another zoom in closeup from top showing the rear wheel set in situ and how the other end of the beam acts onto the channelled slot of the hornblock etch.

 

How it all looks at the moment, sat on the test track with the off-side propped up as driving wheels only fitted on one side. At least it's starting to look like something now and I hope that I can do justice to the brake gear as there is some very fine detail parts to fit. Is my soldering up to the task? 😬

[Neal Ball]

That’s looking very good - are you pleased with it all? @MAP66

 

Do the instructions say the brake gear is next? I would be included to fit the other wheels are start testing the running qualities.

 

Good luck, it’s really coming on well.

[longchap]

5 hours ago, Neal Ball said:

Do the instructions say the brake gear is next?

 

Yes they do, as I've just read them (free download from HL's site) to see if they could offer any better method for my Metro. They do not, but as one might expect from HL, the rigging is well designed and is removable. I'll be soldering the Metro rigging using a simple soldering jig, with one side's final fixing to the chassis by a tacky glue to facilitate removal. Sounds easy doesn't it? No need to answer that one !

 

Edited December 1, 2023 by longchap
spilling, ie, one or more letters were 'spilt' during the process !

[MAP66]

4 hours ago, Neal Ball said:

That’s looking very good - are you pleased with it all? @MAP66

 

Do the instructions say the brake gear is next? I would be included to fit the other wheels are start testing the running qualities.

 

Good luck, it’s really coming on well.

Thanks Neal,

Yes, I'm pretty chuffed with how its looking and for not giving up. It's actually quite a joy to build this kit.

@longchap has got there first with the answer on the brake gear which is indeed next on the agenda, being removeable will certainly help when it comes to wheel fitting later.

[longchap]

I'm impressed with HL's gearboxes, which are also a joy to build, but for some strange reason, I've so far been unsuccessful folding up their hornblocks. Just four folds eh? Well I've read the instructions and even understand them, but my attempts so far only result in a mangled brass abstract sculpture.

 

Can you share your foolproof methodology, tips, etc Mark, as I seem to be acting the fool with these and I really want to try compensation on my next build.

 

Bill

[MAP66]

Hi Bill,

 

Sorry to hear about your unsuccessful attempts for the hornblocks. Not sure if I can add any further advice other than what's already written in the instructions. But here goes...

 

 I feel it is imortant that everything is held flat during each fold sequence to avoid any distortion of the etched carrier. After making the initial first fold (folding in on itself with the small x facing each other) I really made sure they were flat by placing the folded etch in my folding jig and clamping down tight on the etch. For the second fold (the securing tab or pin) I first checked to see if the pin looked to be free of any burrs or material which would prevent it from passing through the locking tab and did the same for the locking tab to check the hole was clean and free.

 

It was then a case of holding it all flat within the bending jig and forcing or more of a rounding over movement onto the locking tab with the end of a sharp file bending it over 90 degrees until the pin engaged into the locking tab. Then I used the folding jig to grip the etched carrier while I folded up the horn cheeks using the flat edge of a steel rule. This step is shown again below.

 

I did find that that when the brass bushes where inserted within the carriers they were initially a little tight. I found that bending the horncheeks slightly over the 90 degree mark along with some minimal filing resolved this. 

 

Using the folding jig to clamp the carrier etch straight while at the same time forming the bend of the horncheeks with the aid of a steel rule. The jig in question is the 'Hold and Fold' by Avonside Works and shown below...

 

[longchap]

Thanks Mike, very much in fact, as you’ve given me exactly what I needed, that is, a description of the hornblock bending process from the perspective of someone who had completed the seemingly simple process successfully.

 

I had followed the instructions using the same tools pictured, but never got the locking tab to lock down the assembly to produce a really flat hornblock, but due to your methodology, I will now deploy my ‘Hold and Fold’ and also ensure the etch is prepared more scrupulously and success should be within reach.

 

My mojo is rekindled, so I must find my hornblocks this weekend and try again. I’ll report back.

 

Un mille mercis,

 

Bill

 

[MAP66]

1 hour ago, longchap said:

Thanks Mike, very much in fact, as you’ve given me exactly what I needed, that is, a description of the hornblock bending process from the perspective of someone who had completed the seemingly simple process successfully.

 

I had followed the instructions using the same tools pictured, but never got the locking tab to lock down the assembly to produce a really flat hornblock, but due to your methodology, I will now deploy my ‘Hold and Fold’ and also ensure the etch is prepared more scrupulously and success should be within reach.

 

My mojo is rekindled, so I must find my hornblocks this weekend and try again. I’ll report back.

 

Un mille mercis,

 

Bill

 

Nice one Bill, I'm sure you'll crack it and I'll look forward to your report in due course.

[MAP66]

I haven’t really moved forward with the build over the past couple of days, Instead I have been using the time to go back over a few things which were nagging at me.

 

First off, the inside faces of the front driver bushes were catching slightly on the inside motion. I managed to get a small file board in there and take a little off each side which put that nag right. Then I dismantled the compensation beams and rear wheel set to get access to that blob of solder which needed to be filed down. A dozen or so strokes of the file sorted that one.

 

It wasn’t time to re-assemble just yet, as with the rear wheel set out from the frames, meant another couple of jobs could be completed. First off, I placed a blob of super glue gel on the outside of each wheel boss to secure the wheel in place onto the axle and when dry, the wheels where primed and painted. I then moved onto some touch up painting of the chassis and finally a weathering session which culminated in everything getting a rattle can dosing of varnish. When all that is dry and hardened, I can re-assemble and test again for any tight spots of all moving parts. All being good, I can continue with the build and get onto the brake gear...

 

Painting and weathering in progress 🖌️

[MAP66]

Some more progress to report and in this instalment, a start on the gearbox! But we start with first assembling and installing the steam brake and hand brake to the cross shaft at the rear end of the chassis. For this to happen the rear wheel set is first dropped out from between the frame sides. Below are a few close-up images of assembled gubbings located onto cross shaft…

 

 

 

 

The next step in the instructions are to temporarily fit the wheels for ‘setting up the chassis’. The thought of this stage feels me with dread but it seems necessary for continuing with installing the brake gear for correct alignment/spacing and ride height with wheels in place. However, for reasons previously explained, I really only wanted to fit the wheels once and once only.

 

While I contemplated the way forward, I decided to start on the gearbox which is a separate assembly in itself and could be done at any time in the build. The first step is to ream out all the pre-drilled holes in the gearbox housing etch to accept the supplied 1/8” brass bushes and the 2 gear shafts which will require cutting to length.

 

The bushes are soldered in place and the etch folded to form a 3-sided housing. I then soldered into position the motor mounting plate and gear protector and thought that was a good place to stop until next time. I fitted the driver axle with one wheel fitted through the frame and through the gear box housing to see how it all looked. I found the Poppies jig useful for this exercise.

 

For the next instalment, I’m hoping that I will have completed all the gear box gearing and motor fitting and have given it a successful test out side of the chassis.

I will then see if it’s possible to fit one hand of the brake gear assembly to the wheeled side of the chassis and go from there with some trial and error modelling.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[MAP66]

I now have the gearing mostly assembled and the motor coupled up to the gearbox. The final drive gear is fitted when the driver axle is fitted. So, for now and without the final drive gear fitted, I hooked the motor and gearbox up to a 9V battery supply via crocodile clips and spun the motor in either direction for a few seconds. Everything seemed to work fine with no pops or plumes of smoke. With that test completed, I used a 2 part epoxy resin to glue in the drive shafts as it’s the gears which rotate and not the shafts.

 

The next step will be to attempt to get the driver axle in with final gear and press on the second wheel. However, I read further on in the instructions where you are advised to fit the plunger pick ups before wheels are fitted! So, some more research required as I’m not sure what’s best, plunger type or wiper pick-ups? Wiper pick-ups can be fitted after the wheels go on. Any ideas or advice on either method, would be much appreciated.

 

Gear box and motor become one. The final gear is shown to left of gearbox, the driver axle will eventually pass through the central axle bush and then through one side of the gearbox bush through the driver gear, out the other gearbox bush and finally the opposite axle bush. Easy eh!!!

 

Close-up of the worm drive, showing gap between teeth. I think I have the gap correct, the instructions state there should be daylight between the teeth but with minimal backlash. The blobs on the frame casing are epoxy resin, holding the drive shafts in place. Too risky to solder in place as the plastic gears are only mm's away.

[Sweet pea]

Hi @MAP66 i am really enjoying your build. My hat goes off to you as this is definitely something i would not attempt. Look forward to seeing more progress.👍

[Neal Ball]

8 hours ago, MAP66 said:

I now have the gearing mostly assembled and the motor coupled up to the gearbox. The final drive gear is fitted when the driver axle is fitted. So, for now and without the final drive gear fitted, I hooked the motor and gearbox up to a 9V battery supply via crocodile clips and spun the motor in either direction for a few seconds. Everything seemed to work fine with no pops or plumes of smoke. With that test completed, I used a 2 part epoxy resin to glue in the drive shafts as it’s the gears which rotate and not the shafts.

 

The next step will be to attempt to get the driver axle in with final gear and press on the second wheel. However, I read further on in the instructions where you are advised to fit the plunger pick ups before wheels are fitted! So, some more research required as I’m not sure what’s best, plunger type or wiper pick-ups? Wiper pick-ups can be fitted after the wheels go on. Any ideas or advice on either method, would be much appreciated.

 

Gear box and motor become one. The final gear is shown to left of gearbox, the driver axle will eventually pass through the central axle bush and then through one side of the gearbox bush through the driver gear, out the other gearbox bush and finally the opposite axle bush. Easy eh!!!

 

Close-up of the worm drive, showing gap between teeth. I think I have the gap correct, the instructions state there should be daylight between the teeth but with minimal backlash. The blobs on the frame casing are epoxy resin, holding the drive shafts in place. Too risky to solder in place as the plastic gears are only mm's away.

That’s looking really good - personally I would go for wiper pick-ups.

 

FYI - I soldered my gearbox - quick in and out, allowing it to cool down before going onto the next one.

[MAP66]

 

I have decided to fit wiper pick-ups, which means I can get the wheels on and work it out from there. However, as always there is always something nagging me which needs sorting first. That something happened to be the rear wheel set on this occasion. I had painted the inside frame after dropping out the wheelset and managed to get paint where it shouldn’t be, which resulted in the rear wheel set hornblocks binding instead of sliding smoothly up and down. So, it all had to come out again, to allow access for a file to remove the paint. Some time later, I had it sorted and it was back to the main wheels.

 

All crank pins had been fitted and I paid attention to ensure that all screw heads were well countersunk into the rear of the wheel boss to prevent them from catching on the side frames. Rightly or wrongly, I super glued them in place. The chassis kit includes axle washers of 2 different thicknesses (0.2 and 0.4mm). I opted for 0.4mm and slipped one over the front axle with wheel already attached. The axle was then pushed through the axle bushes and a second washer placed on the other end. The opposite wheel was lined up onto the axle, quartered by eye and pushed on by hand. So far, so good but now was the tricky driver axle which needed to engage the gearbox drive!

 

Much fiddling, balancing and choice words later the driver axle was in with gearbox engaged. The axles opposite wheel was then pressed on, once again by hand. I then fitted the coupling rods, some more fathing, fettling and choice words later I had one side fitted and thankfully the opposite side went far more smoothly.

Then it was testing time. The rolling chassis was placed on the test track and power was supplied from a Bachmann basic controller. Crocodile clips went from the track rails to the motor terminals and I turned the controllers speed dial a few notches, then watched and listened intently. The moment I was hoping for happened, a promising sound and the turning of wheels resulted in motion with no sign of spluttering or stalling. A satisfying moment indeed, time for a Doombar or three.

 

Here she is, after just completing the electrical test. There is still some general tidying up to do around the chassis, some rods to cut down to size and the crank pin nuts need to go on further and the pins cut down. Then, I can go back to the brake gear and do my best get that fitted correctly.