Tyteford Halte

[longchap]

No, you're not going mad, but do these mad things because you can. Great stuff Mike 🤪

 

Oh and don't forget the dented billy can on the shelf above the firebox door for the crew cuppas. 

 

[MAP66]

52 minutes ago, longchap said:

Oh and don't forget the dented billy can on the shelf above the firebox door for the crew cuppas. 

You know me by now, I already have it on order along with the fireman 😄

[MAP66]

The Billy Can arrived today, along with the Fireman 🙂 I will be painting those up soon! In the meantime, I miniaturised myself and undertook some plumbing on the backhead, followed on by a bit of painting. Next will be the gauges, I will just fit two gauges and am currently looking at what best to use. It will probably be a small disc of plastic from the scrap box, something around 2mm or a little under in diameter.

 

I'm back to normal size again after the plumbing session. 

 

Application of some copper and brass coloured paint starts to bring out the detail, some gunmetal to still  to add here and there and then red for the regulator handle. The water gauge has been temporarily removed to allow a spray coat of chaos black, it will be glued back on later.

 

[MrWolf]

Cracking job there Mark.

 

Your rubber wallpaper should arrive by Monday... 🤪 

 

I ordered the loco tools including billy can from Modelu, you won't be disappointed.

 

Cross eyed after painting them maybe, but not disappointed.

[MAP66]

Cheers Rob, 

Yep, the tools look really impressive, amazing detail for such tiny objects. This is definitely a case of keeping them on the sprue for painting and only releasing them when I'm ready to stick them in place. 

[MrWolf]

I'm going to get hi tech with mine, fix the sprue to a small length of wood with poster tack and clamp the other end of the wood in the vice.

 

That should save me a few quid in the chapel swear box!

[MAP66]

I'm finally getting close to completing this stage of the cab interior. For the two gauges, I managed to remove one of the gauges from the white cast metal backhead which I think can be cleaned up and used. Hopefully, I can get the other one off as well without causing any damage to it. If this works, then I can drill a 0.4mm hole at the base of the gauges and push them onto the two wires sticking up at the top of the manifold. I stuck the water gauge back and gave it all a coat of smut. All that remains, apart from the gauges, are a funny looking thing which fits on top of the steam brake (could be a thermostat?) and lastly two linkage bars (left and right). The right hand one will be attached to the regulator handle and the left hand one remains bolted to the boiler front.

 

 

 

[Neal Ball]

10 minutes ago, MAP66 said:

I'm finally getting close to completing this stage of the cab interior. For the two gauges, I managed to remove one of the gauges from the white cast metal backhead which I think can be cleaned up and used. Hopefully, I can get the other one off as well without causing any damage to it. If this works, then I can drill a 0.4mm hole at the base of the gauges and push them onto the two wires sticking up at the top of the manifold. I stuck the water gauge back and gave it all a coat of smut. All that remains, apart from the gauges, are a funny looking thing which fits on top of the steam brake (could be a thermostat?) and lastly two linkage bars (left and right). The right hand one will be attached to the regulator handle and the left hand one remains bolted to the boiler front.

 

 

 

 

We shall need a video feed inside the cab so we can see that lovely back-head.

[MrWolf]

I spent ages painting the backhead for my 517, then fitted the miniscule full cab as per number 530.

 

Once the crew are in, you can barely see it, but I know it's there....😆

[MAP66]

13 minutes ago, MrWolf said:

I spent ages painting the backhead for my 517, then fitted the miniscule full cab as per number 530.

 

Once the crew are in, you can barely see it, but I know it's there....😆

That's going to be the case with this as well. I plan to model the roof vent open, but even with that and the glimpse you get over the top of the cab doors you won't be able to see much at all. It was all in the challenge really and to see if I was up to it and it's true for me too, I'll know it's there and it puts a grin on my face 😁

[MAP66]

With a bit of perseverance, I managed to wrestle the two gauges and the bit which looks like a thermostat from their whitemetal home and have transferred them onto my backhead. I quite like how it turned out and I think all that filing was worth it in the end. Next on the list of things to do, will be to form an enclosure at the back of the fire box opening to house the flame flicker led. I have already ground down the motor spindle to create the space required and the backhead itself will be fitted slightly further into the cab space. This means the cab floor will be re-measured and version 2 will be constructed with Ibuprofen chequer plate!

 

Almost there now! Note to myself; hurry up and get that billy can painted up.

 

[longchap]

A joyfull work of passion and patience.

 

Best,

 

Bill

[longchap]

On 14/01/2024 at 00:08, MAP66 said:

I plan to model the roof vent open, but even with that and the glimpse you get over the top of the cab doors you won't be able to see much at all. It was all in the challenge really and to see if I was up to it and it's true for me too, I'll know it's there and it puts a grin on my face 😁

 

It sounds as if you're trying to open up as much of the cab as is practical to help interior visibility, so could you open the cab doors? Of note is that that the Hattons/DJM 14/48/58XX came with posable cab doors to help show off the interior.

 

 

 

[MAP66]

13 minutes ago, longchap said:

 

It sounds as if you're trying to open up as much of the cab as is practical to help interior visibility, so could you open the cab doors? Of note is that that the Hattons/DJM 14/48/58XX came with posable cab doors to help show off the interior.

 

 

 

That is something I was considering Bill, but haven't explored that possibility any further as yet. I would only actually need to model one side to have an openable cab door, as if and when I get the auto train running, it will only ever be viewed from one side only. At some point I will give it some further thought, a convincing working hinge arrangement would need to be devised first which might require a bit of head scratching. 

 

out of interest, would you know if cab doors would ever be open when GWR loco's where in motion? If not, I think that If I decide on a working cab door and manage to get it working, I would only have the cab door open for static cameo shots. I think the glow from the firebox should still be visible with cab doors closed, I'm looking forward to getting that working but haven't even ordered the flicker glow led yet. 

[longchap]

With my H&S Exec hat on, that would be a definite no for doors open when in motion, but the opportunities for cameo shots is persuasive. I need to look closer look at the Hattons 48XX and see how they do it. A wire pin at the bottom is easy enough to locate in a hole in the floor, but the top needs some careful thought.

 

Edited January 15 by longchap

[Asterix2012]

38 minutes ago, longchap said:

With my H&S Exec hat on, that would be a definite no for doors open when in motion, but the opportunities for cameo shots is persuasive. I need to look closer look at the Hattons 48XX and see how they do it. A wire pin at the bottom is easy enough to locate in a hole in the floor, but the top needs some careful thought.

 

H&S act was 1974, I wonder what if any regulations there were about cab doors before then.

 

In earlier days not every engine would have cab doors.

Edited January 15 by Asterix2012

[MrWolf]

36 minutes ago, longchap said:

A wire pin at the bottom is easy enough to locate in a hole in the floor, but the top needs some careful thought.

 

 

A thin sliver of brass, suitable hole drilled in one end and bent through ninety degrees and fixed to the back of the cabsiide for the top hinge.

[longchap]

5 hours ago, MrWolf said:

 

A thin sliver of brass, suitable hole drilled in one end and bent through ninety degrees and fixed to the back of the cabsiide for the top hinge.

 

Ah, the good old sliver of brass trick. That'll do nicely.

 

[longchap]

5 hours ago, Asterix2012 said:

H&S act was 1974, I wonder what if any regulations there were about cab doors before then.

 

In earlier days not every engine would have cab doors.

It'll say in the GWR rule book, but the modelling challenge is more interesting 😃

[MAP66]

Well, there's some ideas to mull over then. As I reach for my thinking cap, and while we are talking about cab interiors, does anyone have an idea of the detailing at the rear of the cab (the bunker end) I can't find any images online or in the books I have. Even if I only model the opening for the coal in the bunker wall, it would be good to get the detail right.

[longchap]

Yep, photos are rare, yet I'll take a gander, but you could lean a shovel against the bunker while the fireman takes a cuppa.

 

 

[MAP66]

The firebox glow led has arrived and I have spent the last couple of days experimenting on how best to mount it to the non-viewed side of the backhead. For housing the led, I settled on using an etched box from a brass fret of accessory parts intended for a garden shed interior. I drilled a hole through the back of this for passing the 2 wire through and then glued the led in place within the box with some insulation to prevent the solder pads touching the brass surround.

 

The enclosure assembly was then glued in place to the reverse side of the backhead and wired up for a test (remembering to add the resistor which came with the led). Good, we get a nice orange glow which is what I was after. However, after inserting the backhead back into the cab, still more clearance was required to prevent the back of the enclosure fouling against the motor shaft during its range of up and down movement.

 

The enclosure box is only about 3mm deep and I can’t get it any shallower and I daren’t attempt to grind more off the motor shaft. The only alternative, to bring the backhead even further forward into the cab. I think I can get away with another 2mm at max before it will look odd.

 

So, I’m going to be spending a bit more time tweaking this until it looks right and when fitted there is no fouling of the motor shaft, wish me luck 🙂

In case your all wondering, I haven’t completely ruled out openable cab doors as yet. I have to crack this first, as I can only deal with one dilemma at a time 🤪

 

The reverse side side showing the brass enclosure glued on the back. Note also, the wedge of plastrut glued to the top of the backhead, its purpose to bring it forward into the cab.

 

How it all looks from the front. I painted everything inside the enclosure black, but not the led of course. The left hand gauge came off (due to all the handling) I have it safe in my special place for 'small parts which fall off which have not been lost to the carpet and are waiting to be stuck back on again when I get around to it' box.

 

Is it me or is it getting warm in here? I'm using a nano led (orange firebox glow) from Youchoos and all going well, I will be able to adjust the brightness once it is decoder driven as opposed to my set up here which is direct from the test track via crocodile clips. There is also a bit more detailing, as the linkage bar is now attached to the regulator handle and some 0.1mm copper wire has appeared to the right of the steam brake.

 

A tease of what will be visible through the side of the cab. I like the glow effect and I think this will be the viewing side.

[MAP66]

Guess what I did yesterday? Here’s a clue…

 

 

Yes, I visited the ‘Tivvy Bumper’ which is a static exhibit at the Tiverton Museum of Mid Devon Life, who knew that a class 14XX was so close. I certainly didn’t, until I came across it doing some research.

 

It became an invaluable visit and enabled me to get a few photos and measurements of the cab interior and some other areas of the loco as well. Unfortunately, 1442 was not fitted for auto workings but there was a wealth of other details which I was able to look at in close detail. I was ably assisted by my better half who was in charge of Vernier callipers, tape measure and clip board, while I was chief photographer. I’ll leave you today with a few images of the Tivvy Bumper…

 

There is a raised mezzanine walkway all around the the loco, museum staff kindly allowed me down to the track level to take some photos. I had to crouch down below the raised walkway to get this shot. In my keenness to get the next shot, I promptly forgot about the structure immediately above my noggin and stood up. Ouch!!! F*** It. That really hurt, and I was seeing stars. Luckily, nobody witnessed and I managed to style it out 🤕

 

An overall side view of 1442.

 

These are some of the interior cab details which I was after, at least I can make a start on that bunker wall now.

[longchap]

What a useful find Mark and thank you to you and yours for the survey results.

 

Looking forward to seeing the results, which I know will be in the "splendid' spectrum.

 

Bill 

[MAP66]

I recently realised that I never actually declared that I had completed the HL chassis build, I just sort of went straight onto the body shell and I think I will be inside the cab for some time to come.

 

So, just to confirm the chassis is done and I found it a joy to build. All that remains, which is not part of the kit is to wire it up when I have the sound decoder (still not ordered) and add some lead weight to get it running nicely. With the wiper pick ups, I settled on just fitting to the rear driver and trailing wheel axles. Trying to get something working on the front drivers was proving too problematic and I abandoned it in favour of fitting a stay alive/power pack which I will get with the decoder.

 

A bit of backtracking there before we move forward again. Well, I say forward, at best I would describe my modelling progress as like wading through treacle dragging a ships anchor behind me.

 

Its not all bad though, as I now have a few details and measurements to carry on with the cab detailing. This might not be everyone’s cup of tea but I thought its good to show what you can achieve with bits of sprue, scraps of plastic and brass and a bit of creativity. I have started to model the areas to the left and the right of the back head which are two box type constructions as seen on the real thing below…

 

 

 

The boxy bits are in, a tight squeeze. 

 

Forgot to mention, I took a scalpel to the cab side and removed a door. Still working on how to fit it back again.

 

Everything eventually fitted in, another coat of green paint is required on the boxes. New floor has been painted and completed with chequer plate.

Some more plumbing is required (delivery pipes) and I'm thinking about taking on the lubricator assembly which fits below the right window. After that, I can make a start on the bunker wall.