MrWolf Posted June 29, 2021 Share Posted June 29, 2021 A prototype for everything. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Graham T Posted June 29, 2021 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted June 29, 2021 Well I don't think it looks quite that bad... ... yet! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrWolf Posted June 29, 2021 Share Posted June 29, 2021 On 29/06/2021 at 09:37, Graham T said: Well I don't think it looks quite that bad... ... yet! So now you no longer need to worry about it! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Graham T Posted June 29, 2021 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted June 29, 2021 (edited) I've made a start on weathering the platelayers hut. It's been years since I did anything like this, and I'm pretty much making it up as I go along (as ever). Not sure about how it looks so far... Any tips and/or feedback gratefully received! Edited April 7, 2022 by Graham T 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Alister_G Posted June 29, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 29, 2021 That looks pretty good, the brickwork especially. What material is the roof meant to be? Al. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Graham T Posted June 29, 2021 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted June 29, 2021 Thanks Al. Roof is supposed to be felt, I think. Spent a lot of time fiddling with the brickwork, everything else has just had a thin wash of light grey so far. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Graham T Posted June 29, 2021 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted June 29, 2021 I'm not happy with the vertical joints in the brickwork though. Will have to do something about that (and then paint it all again!) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Graham T Posted June 30, 2021 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted June 30, 2021 (edited) Not sure if this is looking better, or am I making a pig's ear of it? Still got a bit to do with the roof and chimney flashing, and also will have to reinstate some of the paint on the brickwork where I've tried to reduce the prominence of the vertical joints. Edited April 7, 2022 by Graham T 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Gedward Posted June 30, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 30, 2021 The weathered brickwork on the chimney is really looking good. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Graham T Posted June 30, 2021 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted June 30, 2021 Thanks George. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrWolf Posted June 30, 2021 Share Posted June 30, 2021 I've used masking tape as felt before. Trimmed to 3ft scale width and each piece overlapping by 1mm. Add a couple of coats of Humbrol 112 and weather accordingly. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Graham T Posted June 30, 2021 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted June 30, 2021 Thanks Mr W - I'll venture out to the local emporium a bit later for a pot of that. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Graham T Posted June 30, 2021 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted June 30, 2021 (edited) Ding, and indeed, d0ng. Bell now added to the front of the engine shed. I'm not going to put on the phone insulator bracket until I've added the guttering and downpipes. I'll only break it off otherwise! Edited April 7, 2022 by Graham T Sneaking around the word police... 1 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold chuffinghell Posted June 30, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 30, 2021 2 1 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Graham T Posted June 30, 2021 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted June 30, 2021 13 minutes ago, chuffinghell said: Thanks, exactly what I was trying to say! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Graham T Posted June 30, 2021 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted June 30, 2021 (edited) Almost there with the platelayers hut, I think. Perhaps darken the roof a little (having just lightened it!), and maybe add a touch of green here and there to suggest moss? I'm reasonably happy with how the sides of the chimney look now; the seams are still visible but nowhere near as prominent as before. With the amount of time it's taken me to make this little hut, I dread to think how long the station building might take... Edited April 7, 2022 by Graham T 2 3 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Alister_G Posted June 30, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 30, 2021 2 hours ago, Graham T said: With the amount of time it's taken me to make this little hut, I dread to think how long the station building might take... Ah but think of the experience you've gained. Anyway, it's not a race, the worst thing you can do is start feeling pressured to do something, it's one sure way to kill off your mojo. Just take it at your own pace, you've already proved you have the skill. Nice job mate. Al. 6 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Graham T Posted June 30, 2021 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted June 30, 2021 (edited) Thanks The mojo is still intact, but I suspect that wiring might give it a bit of a hammering. More on that to come! Edited June 30, 2021 by Graham T 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Graham T Posted July 1, 2021 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted July 1, 2021 (edited) As hinted at yesterday, I have a horrible feeling that the mojo is about to get dive-bombed by wiring woes... I've used electrofrog points throughout, and (I suspect rather foolishly) believed Peco's blurb on the packaging that they work fine straight out of the box with DCC. I put insulated joiners on each of the rails in the inner vee. Testing with the Mogul (the only DCC loco I have) produced some disappointing results. On plain track everything runs fine, but the loco will only travel a certain distance over a point before it comes to a stop. The pics below show how far it manages to get. So, if anyone can offer any tips to rescue me - please do! I've got a nasty inkling that I might have to lift the points and modify them as per this photo though. If so, would I also need to join the stock and switch rails on each side? Edited April 7, 2022 by Graham T Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted July 1, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 1, 2021 Have you wired the frog wire in via a switch ? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Graham T Posted July 1, 2021 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted July 1, 2021 All I've done to the points is to solder a power dropper wire to each of the outer rails at the toe end. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold chuffinghell Posted July 1, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 1, 2021 (edited) I could be wrong (I usually am) but could the wheel be causing a short here? I think this is why it is recommended to cut the bridge wires and feed the frog via a switch.....but I'm probably wrong Edited July 1, 2021 by chuffinghell Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
outatime Posted July 1, 2021 Share Posted July 1, 2021 If you are using the points just as they come out of the packaging, the whole frog is connected to both switch-blades. Thus, the powering of the frog and switch-blades only relies on the electrical contact between the switch-blades and the outer rails. This is ok for dcc, but you can't have any paint in the area where the switch-blades touch the outer rails because it effectively isolates the frog and the switch-blades. That's why your loco is stopping there, all wheels with pickups are on the electrically dead part of the point. I would try getting the paint off in these areas first, but the "proper" way of wiring the point is shown in the picture above in your post. But if you use it, you need an additional switch to power the frog with either + or -, depending on the direction to which the point is set. Regards, Björn 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold chuffinghell Posted July 1, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 1, 2021 See! told you I was wrong Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
outatime Posted July 1, 2021 Share Posted July 1, 2021 (edited) 21 minutes ago, chuffinghell said: I could be wrong (I usually am) but could the wheel be causing a short here? I think this is why it is recommended to cut the bridge wires and feed the frog via a switch.....but I'm probably wrong This can be a problem with newer peco unifrog points, when the back-to-back of the wheels is set too high. With the peco code 75 electrofrog points, the frog is much longer and ends with the two isolating rail joiners on the left of the picture, so there can't be a short at the marked spot. Edit: This can as well be a problem with insulfrog points as shown in the second picture of the qouted post. But i have never used any insulfrog points, i always went for electrofrog ones. Edited July 1, 2021 by outatime Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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