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Chuffnell Regis


Graham T
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Work reared its ugly head yesterday, so I didn't get very much done to the shed.  The office window is now painted, and I've tried to weather the lower levels of the interior walls, but as I mentioned they are covered in brick paper, so it's a bit dodgy trying to use washes on them.  I've been more successful in using some grey washes on the sliding doors and the awning, to suggest some fading of the paint.  I will also dry brush some weathered areas onto the sliding doors and especially the doors at the ends of the shed, to suggest chipped and worn paint.  The prototype had posts next to the end doors to stop them swinging out over adjacent tracks, so I will add some paint chipping there.

 

But I think probably the next task is to paint the dark stone.  And add the glazing.  And put a heap of coal into the lean-to.  And, and, and!

 

 

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Edited by Graham T
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4 minutes ago, Alister_G said:

That's looking brilliant, love the staining on the bottom of the interior walls too.

 

Al.

 

You're a bit of a dab hand at corrugated iron - have I overdone the rust on the roof?  Or indeed underdone it!

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Just now, Graham T said:

You're a bit of a dab hand at corrugated iron - have I overdone the rust on the roof?  Or indeed underdone it!

As it will go from nothing when new to ‘nothing but’ just prior to falling off, any amount must be right!

Paul.

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1 minute ago, Graham T said:

 

You're a bit of a dab hand at corrugated iron - have I overdone the rust on the roof?  Or indeed underdone it!

 

No I think you've got it about spot on - given the time period you are modelling, and the probable age of the building, you wouldn't expect it to be anymore rusty than you have done it, and I like the subtle differences in colouring of the various sheets.

 

Al.

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Just now, Alister_G said:

 

No I think you've got it about spot on - given the time period you are modelling, and the probable age of the building, you wouldn't expect it to be anymore rusty than you have done it, and I like the subtle differences in colouring of the various sheets.

 

Al.

 

Great, thank you.  In that case, I can leave that part well alone now!

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That's looking really good Graham, as Al has pointed out, the level of weathering is spot on for the period that you are modelling. I am going to have a similar task with the village garage on my layout, which would only be about twenty years old in the time period that I am modelling. 

I think that to follow your example with slightly different shades on each sheet will answer the problem I have been trying to address, stopping it looking plasticky and toylike.

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4 minutes ago, MrWolf said:

That's looking really good Graham, as Al has pointed out, the level of weathering is spot on for the period that you are modelling. I am going to have a similar task with the village garage on my layout, which would only be about twenty years old in the time period that I am modelling. 

I think that to follow your example with slightly different shades on each sheet will answer the problem I have been trying to address, stopping it looking plasticky and toylike.

 

Thanks Rob.  Getting the varied shades isn't hard, I just used two different acrylic greys and then randomly mixed them as I was painting individual sheets.  If you havent already made the roof I'd recommend the glazing sheets from Wills - they're much thinner than the regular stuff.

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22 minutes ago, Graham T said:

 

Thanks Rob.  Getting the varied shades isn't hard, I just used two different acrylic greys and then randomly mixed them as I was painting individual sheets.  If you havent already made the roof I'd recommend the glazing sheets from Wills - they're much thinner than the regular stuff.

 

Thanks Graham, the random mixing of paint always seems more natural than slavishly mixing shade X for individual parts.  I do use the transparent corrugated sheet for rooves, (see the privy project on my thread.) Some people have the patience to file down the edges of the sheet and cut in the corrugations on the underside. I'm not one of them. :D

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So, that's the first coat of dark stone on.  Fiddly job, and I think a second coat will be needed in places.  After that I'll weather the guttering and downpipes a little.

 

 

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I also added a pile of coal to the lean to.  I'll put some more in there once it's actually attached to the building.  I tried to be clever at first using papier mache to make a heap, but in the end that all proved far too difficult so I just shaped a lump of blu-tak and painted it black.  Then a coat of PVA before adding the coal on top, which is simulated with - well, coal!  The glue is still wet at the moment, hence it looking a bit odd...

 

 

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I think I'll also add several black washes to the lower end of the wall where the lean to will be fixed, to give the impression of all the grot and grime from the coal dust.

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Inching painfully towards the finish line!  I added some hints of moss and lichen to the office roof, then toned them down again with another couple of black washes.  The insides of the gutters have also had a wash of dirty grey.  Next will be the office glazing, add a pair of handrails alongside the steps, and fix on the lean-to.  I think the last job will be to fix on the main doors, but I'm not sure whether I should do that now or once the shed is in place on the layout?

 

 

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46 minutes ago, Graham T said:

I'm not sure whether I should do that now or once the shed is in place on the layout?

 

 

Probably leave it until you can make sure they are at the right height for ground level.

 

Al.

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Moving away from goods shed for a moment, the postman delivered a little goody this morning.  Makes a nice addition in the middle of the B-set I think.

 

 

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It's looking better and better, very atmospheric. I did fancy building one in a similar style for my own layout, but it wouldn't have looked right given the amount of traffic. 

 

I'd I get the chance to build the line's terminus though!

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Thanks Rob.  I'll plonk it on the layout a bit later.  But then I will be itching to get on with the groundwork to set it into, and before that I should probably drive myself crazy trying to install all the point motors...

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It's not too horrible a job to install point motors, just make sure that the slot under the tiebars is generous enough.  I found that wiring in a capacitor discharge unit (CDU) gave everything enough grunt to fire the crossover points in tandem, without things getting warm and smelling like an old Tri-ang Jinty.

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I found it easiest to tackle one wire at a time, say the black wire from point number one all the way back to the power source, then the same wire on point number two and so on. I taped each wire under the board to keep it tidy until everything was wired and tested. Doing it in stages like that means you can walk away for a while and not forget what you were doing.

It's also handy to say to yourself, I'll get wire X done and have a break. Being able to see progress in the rats nest is encouraging!

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