A beginner building 4 x Airfix Meat Vans...

[Ralf]

So this all began after a visit to Doncaster show with a friend, in an attempt to revitalise many years of on / off and stalled modelling a purchased a bargain - 4 Airfix Meat Van kits for £15... The idea being I can make a total mess of them and waste little but hopefully learn a lot, being especially scared of paint and my lack of skills.

 

 

So the journey starts with the building of wagon #1... I have filed down the rear of the W Irons to try and squeeze top hat bearings in whilst keeping the axle boxes vertical - nah didn't work, so rather than the countersink them method (using a dill countersink) I've opted for drilling the holes deeper and flangeless bearings (Wizzard Models) 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Does anyone have any tips on what to do with the ludicrously large hinges - other than cut them off? Hoping I can glue the four sections (2 bits of wall and 2 doors) of the side together then assemble as 1 piece... 

 

 

Lastly  the three vertical bits hanging from the buffer beam all need to go don't they? (Ooops that vac pipe isn't straight is it!) 

 

 

Thanks for reading... 

 

Ralf

ps They're going to become industrial / internal bauxite vans somewhat later than their original limited meaty life... 

pps Pics restored, as I'm trying to return to actively modelling! 

 

 

 

Edited October 6, 2022 by Ralf
Duplicate pics and adding a ps

[Ian Fisher]

All the Airfix wagons had those four bits on the buffer beam, two I'd guess related to the coupling. just chop EM off.

 

Have a look for the truck tuner or H&A models retail a neat little countersunk drill that sets the bearing true into the axle boxes/Wiron. Most just need a little material clearing.

 

As for hinges try filling them back? You don't want to keep them being able to open and close do you?

 

Ian

Edited February 25, 2022 by Ian Fisher
typo

[crackedmember]

At this stage you should consider painting them.

 

I would suggest using spray cans.   You can probably get Matt Black,  and a dark grey (for the roof)  from one of the discount chains, but may need to go to an auto store (e.g halfords etc) for a  red.

This would eliminate the need for masking off.

 You will still need to touch some details up e.g ends of brake levers (white), and buffers silver gray.

 

 

 

[andyman7]

17 minutes ago, Ian Fisher said:

All the Airfix wagons had those four bits on the buffer beam, two I'd guess related to the coupling. just chop EM off.

 

Have a look for the truck tuner or H&A models retail a neat little countersunk drill that sets the bearing true into the axle boxes/Wiron. Most just need a little material clearing.

 

As for hinges try filling them back? You don't want to keep them being able to open and close do you?

 

Ian

The inner buffer beam prongs were the limiters for the swing of a Dublo/Simplex/Airfix coupling and the outer ones were theoretically the locating pins for a Triang tension lock coupler, so for a scale build they can indeed all come off

[Ralf]

39 minutes ago, Ian Fisher said:

H&A models retail a neat little countersunk drill that sets the bearing true into the axle boxes/Wiron. Most just need a little material clearing.

 

This? https://www.hamodels.net/wheel-bearing-cutting-tool-for-4mm-wagons-coaches.html or this one: https://www.micromark.com/HO-Truck-Tuner_2 any thoughts on which is the best bet? Both looks better than using a power drill aiming into the Axlebox preying you don't come through the other side... 

 

 

39 minutes ago, Ian Fisher said:

As for hinges try filling them back? You don't want to keep them being able to open and close do you?

 

No certainly not...

 

 

@crackedmember thanks for the pointer, planning on brush painting the wagon, don't really like aerosol paints and I'm not after an ex works finish, a beaten up grotty departmental finish is where I'm aiming... 

 

 

20 minutes ago, andyman7 said:

The inner buffer beam prongs were the limiters for the swing of a Dublo/Simplex/Airfix coupling and the outer ones were theoretically the locating pins for a Triang tension lock coupler, so for a scale build they can indeed all come off

 

Thanks @andyman7 I shall glee-fully chop them all off, I thought there was 4 but could only see 3 in the picture! 

 

Cheers and hopefully more news tomorrow...

 

Ralf

 

Edited February 25, 2022 by Ralf
Truck Tuner info

[Ian Fisher]

Just now, Ralf said:

 

This? https://www.hamodels.net/wheel-bearing-cutting-tool-for-4mm-wagons-coaches.html

 

Cheers and hopefully more news tomorrow...

 

Ralf

 

 

That's one yep!

 

 

Ian

[Ian Fisher]

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Micro-Mark-HO-Truck-Tuner/dp/B06XGK5QSG

 

Is another. IMHO its not as exact as the H&A one, I have got both

 

DCC concepts do a version too

 

https://www.dccconcepts.com/product/bearing-reamers-set-of-two/

 

posted as you did your edit!

 

The two above are more for me to tweak and or repair a worn bearing.

 

As you gleamed they set the bearing at the right depth and keeps it square, which sort of helps with getting the axles true.

Edited February 25, 2022 by Ian Fisher

[DCB]

There are some cans of discount red primer very close to BR Bauxite but they are rare, I got mine from a pound shop in Teignmouth a couple of years ago.

My MO is to assemble the body, spray it and fit it to an RTR chassis and throw the rest of the kit away.  Otherwise I make up a strip. brass? to along the chassis between both coupling pivots to take the coupling loads. This also acta as a mounting for a substantial lead weight. I  fit couplings and then build the body on to this base and spray it. I assemble the chassis dry,  make sure the wheels actually fit, spray it and assemble it  using Evostick pipe weld, making sure it is straight because you only get one chance, and thats it. Transfers. paint and it will probably run for 5 years.  The ones on RTR chassis run indefinitely..

[BR60103]

The MicroMart  MicroMark is for setting the existing indentations to take tapered axle ends. It doesn't work with bearings.

 

Edited February 26, 2022 by BR60103
oops

[Ian Fisher]

2 minutes ago, BR60103 said:

The MicroMart is for setting the existing indentations to take tapered axle ends. It doesn't work with bearings.

 

It's Micromark, and if you know what you want to achieve, you can use it to tweak and clear material.

 

Steel can smooth or cut/remove brass with ease.

 

I had one from 1998, and still got it.

Edited February 26, 2022 by Ian Fisher

[Enterprisingwestern]

 

As As to what to do with the doors, cut off all the hinge detail from the door and frame and fill the resultant gap in with a piece of plastic strip.

To add a bit of variety, remove the vents on one or two and modify the ends, if relevant to your modelling period.

There are threads on the forum dealing with builds of these wagons.

 

Mike.

[hmrspaul]

Photos   https://paulbartlett.zenfolio.com/brmeatvan

 

Paul

[stewartingram]

15 quid! I remember when they were a couple of bob each from Woolies....

[Michael Hodgson]

10 minutes ago, stewartingram said:

15 quid! I remember when they were a couple of bob each from Woolies....

You remember Woolies?  And two bob?  Your age is showing !

 

[John Tomlinson]

If you haven't already glued the bearings in, it is worth remembering that the wagon will function perfectly happily without doing so.

 

This sounds a bit wierd, but with heading for a hundred wagon kits done I can confirm it to be true, and it helps a lot if you aren't quite sure about the extent of play with the wheelset and may need to get them out again.

 

It does require a bit of juggling to keep loose bearings in place whilst getting the wheelset in, and a bit of spit on the bearing can help it hold in place whilst you achieve this.

 

John.

[Steamport Southport]

2 hours ago, stewartingram said:

15 quid! I remember when they were a couple of bob each from Woolies....

 

Normally about a fiver each so £15 for four isn't bad.

 

Problem is do you go for the Airfix ones with the better plastic or the Dapol versions with the good wheels?

 

 

Personally I've got enough of them now. Must have about ten, seeing as BR only had 150 of them that's more than enough. Most were bought at a time there wasn't much else available. Certainly not in the local shops where you were lucky if you found Ratio kits.

 

 

Jason

[BernardTPM]

Judging by the boxes those have got to be late '70s or early '80s ones.

[Mallard60022]

Great fun and well done. At £4 you can't worry if you make a bloomer of something. All sorts of variations to think about. A little weight inside will also help out. They are good kits and make ueful MIndfulness tasks when things are a bit as they are now. Oh and youy can quietly sniff the Solvent to ensure it is working

All the best.

P

[Ralf]

1 hour ago, BernardTPM said:

Judging by the boxes those have got to be late '70s or early '80s ones.

 

3 boxes have price stickers for both 55p and 60p which I'd guess dates it quite closely. 

 

 

9 hours ago, Enterprisingwestern said:

As As to what to do with the doors, cut off all the hinge detail from the door and frame and fill the resultant gap in with a piece of plastic strip.

To add a bit of variety, remove the vents on one or two and modify the ends, if relevant to your modelling period.

There are threads on the forum dealing with builds of these wagons.

 

Thanks Mike, think I will vary them later as I get through the batch. 

 

Any pointers to threads involving the building of these kits? I've read plenty of mostly prototype info threads mostly regarding their original colour or ale conversions. 

 

Thanks - I'm off to cut the door hinges off! Have a nasty feeling the designed gap / tolerance will mean if I glue the doors together and up hard against the sides my full side will not be long enough... 

 

Ralf

[Michael Hodgson]

22 minutes ago, Ralf said:

Thanks - I'm off to cut the door hinges off! Have a nasty feeling the designed gap / tolerance will mean if I glue the doors together and up hard against the sides my full side will not be long enough... 

 

Ralf

I think I left the hinges on until after assembly when I did them.

They need proper wheels of course, and some extra weight.

[ikcdab]

To be honest, there's nothing wrong with any of the airfix wagons that a bit of careful adjustment by the average modeller can't put right. But do buy the airfix ones, not the Dapol versions that aren't as good.

I still love these kits and have just built 20 mineral wagons and a brake.

Ian

[Enterprisingwestern]

1 hour ago, Ralf said:

Any pointers to threads involving the building of these kits? I've read plenty of mostly prototype info threads mostly regarding their original colour or ale conversions. 

 

Western Viscount had a thread with them in ISTR.

 

Mike.

[Ralf]

On 26/02/2022 at 17:56, Michael Hodgson said:

I think I left the hinges on until after assembly when I did them.

They need proper wheels of course, and some extra weight.

 

That would have been an easier option - but it didn't occur to me...

Wheels sorted, weight planned. 

 

So I hacked off the hinges from both sides off the door and then realised the model is designed to have the door stand proud - I think - see image, so I cut / scraped / filed the lump off and bingo here we are...

 

Floor extension piece - prior to removal.

 

I needed to hold it flat somehow... Square held in the vice obliged quite nicely.

 

 

What to do here beyond filling the holes is currently a mystery!

 

 

Next to paint but my Vallejo Primer doesn't want to stick... 

 

Thanks

Ralf

 

Edited October 6, 2022 by Ralf
Pics restored

[Steamport Southport]

 Give them a wash in lukewarm washing up liquid. Then rinse off.

 

They tend to be covered with an oily substance that is difficult to get rid of. One of the reasons that the figures were difficult to paint.

 

 

 

Jason

[41516]

12 minutes ago, Ralf said:

and then realised the model is designed to have the door stand proud

 

They should be - have a look at the first picture in Mr Bartlett's gallery as previously posted. The front face of the door should be flush with the frame.

 

https://paulbartlett.zenfolio.com/brmeatvan