Three-link couplings for 4mm scale

[Peter Kazmierczak]

Any thoughts on the most cost-effective ones. please?

Some just seen too small and fiddly; others too big and chunky. Some appear very expensive (to me at any rate).

 

Whch would you recommend?

[Bernard Lamb]

Smiths. A good compromise as I see it.

Big enough to see and use. Small enough to look reasonable.

It is possible to mix and match hooks and links for a better appearance or to save a few pence.

Buy them as kits not ready assembled as you will soon get used to putting them together.

Bernard

[Captain Kernow]

Totally agree with Bernard. Smiths is a good compromise between appearance and useability.

 

I would also go for steel final links, so that way you can use a magnetic shunters pole - this was a game changer as far as I was concerned.

 

[Steamport Southport]

You'll soon get about a dozen different answers!  😛

 

Some I've used.

 

Smiths, Slaters, Wizard/51L, Roxey, Brassmasters, Gibson, Romford

 

Have a little look at the Wizard website as he does sell a selection so is easy to compare.

 

Wizard Models

 

 

Jason

[ianLMS]

A lot of my wagons use small white-metal hooks from Lanarkshire Model Supplies and utilize Brassmasters chain.  Some folks, more patient than me, coil/wrap 0.45/0.6mm Brass wire around a suitably sized flat former (3-4mm x 2mm wide perhaps??) then when they have coiled enough similar to a long spring, they slice along the former making lots of small split hoops.  Can't get much cheaper than that combination.

 

I have tried Slaters, Smiths, Romfords, Bachmann, Alan Gibson, Brassmasters, MJT for screw-links, Instanter and 3-link ready-made and build ones. Also tried developing my own magnet 3-link type couplings but couldn't really get it to work satisfactorily.  My mix-n-match work ok, but some look very over-size (more practical on tight curves) and others look great but don't work as well as others.

 

A good option is to buy a pack of each type and try them out. Some go quite cheap on Ebay. Gives you a chance to see what works/looks best on your layout. A small investment up front could save you a fair bit if you have lots of wagons to convert.

[Steamport Southport]

I would also suggest a lot depends on what you are doing.

 

If you plan on a lot of shunting and coupling/uncoupling then the slightly larger ones do make a difference.

 

If you are running trains around a layout with very little shunting or coupling then the finer ones may be more suitable.

 

 

Jason

[Peter Kazmierczak]

Thanks guys; I'm leaning towards Smiths.

 

I remember in the 1980s I had some PC Models eched ones; looked great but a b----r to couple/uncouple. I also had others (can't recall the firm) where the links looked almost circular. Easier to work, but not as good looking.

And yes, I plan more shunting than just roundy-roundy.

 

But since I don't like to spend more than £5 on a wagon, I don't want the couplings to cost more than the wagon...

🤪🤪

Edited December 19, 2022 by Peter Kazmierczak

[CKPR]

My favoured combination was Mainly Trains hooks (now available from Wizard Models) and EMGS links. For screw couplings, a reasonable compromise is MT hooks with PC links & screws (PC hooks are unworkably small in my experience).

[PMP]

Smiths links for me, and Ambis hooks. Smiths hooks are too large and look like they should be on the end of a pirates arm, but their slightly oversize links are a good practical compromise in both looks and usability.

For screw links I use Masokits couplings which are good in appearance and in my experience unbreakable.

[Peter Kazmierczak]

What's the difference between Smith's LP1 and LP10 3-link couplings please?

[Bernard Lamb]

LP 10 are described as small.

I don't know what that means. I use LP 1 and find them about right for my needs.

OK for shunting on a 36" minimum radius.

Bernard

[Steamport Southport]

If you get any Smiths screw couplings avoid the ones using the track pin. 

 

The newer version is much better.

 

https://www.petersspares.com/smiths-lp8a-couplings-eight-etched-brass-screw-link-couplings-kit-new-design.ir

 

 

Jason

[Bernard Lamb]

If you need screw couplings then why look any further than Accurascale.

The best that I have seen recently.

Bernard

[SM42]

32 minutes ago, Steamport Southport said:

If you get any Smiths screw couplings avoid the ones using the track pin. 

 

The newer version is much better.

 

https://www.petersspares.com/smiths-lp8a-couplings-eight-etched-brass-screw-link-couplings-kit-new-design.ir

 

 

Jason

 

If you do get some with the track pin, substitute it for a shortened dressmaking pin, glued into the central link.

 

Just make sure the tail hangs downwards when the coupling is in use, I.e back towards the axles when not in use.

 

Andy

[Enterprisingwestern]

 

Depending on how prototypically accurate you wish to be, depending on your buffers there are 3 lengths of coupling hook base, a, no extension, b, for 18.5" buffers, c, for 20.5" buffers.

Only available from Lanarkshire models as I am aware of and my weapon of choice with LP7 links, the "scale" links are in my experience only suitable for sprung buffers and generous curves.

 

Mike.

Edited December 20, 2022 by Enterprisingwestern
Removing Smiths reference number incorrectitude.

[Stretch37266]

Stenson's and Rumney models do nice instanter and screw couplings 

 

Paul

[Captain Kernow]

Lots of experience and good advice on here, Peter, but I particularly identify with the comments from Jason, asking whether this is for shunting or running trains on a roundy roundy layout.

 

If the former, just consider what is easiest, especially on your lower back, if you are going to be doing this standing up and stooping over the layout, especially if you have a lower back problem to begin with (like me). And if you are ever going to be 'performing' with the shunting pole under exhibition conditions, using non-magnetic final links makes everything much, much harder in 4mm scale.

 

Lile PMP, I have used some Masokits screw couplings (assembled from their etches) and they are probably the best in terms of appearance. But I am now finding that the locos and stock that I fitted with them in my younger days are more of a faff now, so if I am coupling a Masokits fitted loco to a Smiths-fitted wagon (with a magnetic lower link), then I will use the magnetic wagon coupling every time.

 

It's so easy to fumble with a non-magnetic shunting pole if you are (a) tired, (b) under exhibition conditions and (c) your back is suffering and I have found that some people just walk away if you can't get the coupling successfully done on (say) the second time around.

 

That won't apply, however, if you are just operating at home!

 

[Poor Old Bruce]

On 19/12/2022 at 18:57, Peter Kazmierczak said:

What's the difference between Smith's LP1 and LP10 3-link couplings please?

 

IIRC LP1 are sets of DIY parts, LP10 are assembled so cost more.

Richard

 

Edit: I seem to be wrong there (sorry folks) see below.

Edited December 24, 2022 by Poor Old Bruce

[Peter Kazmierczak]

Thanks again for all the comments.

 

Is anyone able to post a picture of a Smiths LP1 three-link alongside an LP10 please?

[Bernard Lamb]

6 hours ago, Poor Old Bruce said:

 

IIRC LP1 are sets of DIY parts, LP10 are assembled so cost more.

Richard

Sorry, but no.

I quoted the difference up thread.

LP11 is the assembled version of LP1.

The price is nearly double.

LP1 and LP 10 are available at the same price. LP10 has shorter hooks.

 

Peter wants to know the difference but I cannot help him as I only use the LP1 type.

Bernard

[jwealleans]

LP10 have a much finer (narrower) link than LP1.   They're a to couple and on the odd occasion I've ended up with some by accident I use them as the centre link of the 3 and put a pair of LP1 links either side of them.

[Peter Kazmierczak]

So in my ham-fisted way, with PECO small radius turnouts, are LP1 the choice over LP10?

[jwealleans]

Every time, for me.

[amdaley]

What is the minimum radius most 3 link couplings will take ?

Cheer.

Tony.

[jwealleans]

1 hour ago, amdaley said:

What is the minimum radius most 3 link couplings will take ?

 

That's to some extent dependent on whether you have sprung buffers and also whether you fix the coupling hook or allow it to slide with a retaining spring and then how strong that spring is.

 

I work to a minimum curve radius of 3' and don't have problems.   Short radius PECO points are sharper, i believe and they don't cause me an issue either.