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Three-link couplings for 4mm scale


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11 hours ago, Captain Kernow said:

As far as I know, it's not a tie bar, but an integral part of the brakes, so that if you have brake shoes on one side only (as per this prototype), then this bar carries the actuation of the far-side brake lever to the brake mechanism.

 

 

Mineral wagons with drop bottom doors don't have this rod as it would foul the doors, they have either side brakes and twin V hangers per side, but generally speaking all wagons with Moreton brake fitted would have it, vac fitted or not.

 

Mike.

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Just to expand, there is a shaft between the V hangers which can turn in these hangers. The brake shoes are connected to the shaft by rods so by turning the shaft a small amount the brakes can be applied or released. By using clutch or slotted mechanisms the shaft can be turned by either of the brake levers or by the vacuum cylinder if fitted.

Andrew 

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38 minutes ago, Peter Kazmierczak said:

Thanks for all the replies re-the underframe. It makes things much clearer...👀

And another one done. Tried propelling through PECO small radius points, and all good.

 

P1390263 (2).JPG

With these short wheelbase base wagons and presumably short locomotives you’ll find a good proportion of them ‘work’.

 

If you modify longer vehicles and locomotives on short radii curves and points, particularly with reverse (S) curves you are highly likely to get examples that bufferlock. Basically the buffer heads overlap each other and ‘lock’. The only viable solutions to that problem if it occurs is a wider radius curve and/or larger buffer heads. Generally speaking I get very few issues with traffic over Peco large radius points, but more issues the smaller the radius used. I mention this as if this is the first time using 3 links, you’ll find this out, and it’s a physics thing, rather than modeller error!

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I used to put 3-links on my stock about 40 years ago. If you've see my article in the MRC about Goodrington Diesel Sidings many moons ago, you'll see all the stock had three link or screw couplings made by PC Models - very fine, but very fiddly. And I used large radius points on that layout.

It's like learning everything again...

 

Anyway, modelling is on hold today as I managed to cut my thumb badly whilst trying to push down the rubbish in the recycling bin. Must've caught it on something. Got an A&E appointment in a bit... Fortunately we still have a cottage hospital where I live.

Edited by Peter Kazmierczak
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Hi Peter, long time no speak.

 

Not sure if you remember but I used 3 links on all the stock on Bacup; I used Smiths and really liked them. As others have said, I very quickly gave up with the springs and split pins as they offered no advantage whatsoever, plus it was a damned sight easier to fit them (especially to RTR stock) when you didn't have to carve away so much behind the headstocks.

 

I got quite adept at coupling and uncoupling but when Jeff (Physicsman) and Andy P came round, they struggled a bit, mainly being able to see what the were doing. I haven't got one to hand right now but my solution was to buy some cheap pen torches and then add brass wire to them to do the uncoupling - illumination made a huge difference!

 

I just had a look in my Photobucket account (where all the photos for Bacup are still hosted - Photobucket doesn't allow them to be shared unless you pay them £££ unfortunately) and found this, which I screengrabbed.

Untitled.png

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Hi guys,

Just to jump in on this, i'm planning to use Smith 3 link couplings on my goods stock (Which i'm happy to modify), my coaches are all close coupled, what I am looking for is NEM plugs that can take 3 link couplings therefore avoiding having to modify my locos and coaches.

Does such a thing exist?

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23 hours ago, Jason T said:

 

 

I just had a look in my Photobucket account (where all the photos for Bacup are still hosted - Photobucket doesn't allow them to be shared unless you pay them £££ unfortunately) and found this, which I screengrabbed.

Untitled.png

 

Bob Essery recommended to have your 'shunters pole' have a hook like the real thing (ie offset to one side, so by twisting your wrists the links fall off), saying that it works better. Has anyone actually tried this in model form?

 

Andy G

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6 hours ago, uax6 said:

Has anyone actually tried this in model form?

 

No, because I do mine from vertically above, which no earthly shunter could achieve.   I prefer a small hook, but I know others use a spiral or magnetic links.  Where I think we all agree is that you can never have too much light.

Edited by jwealleans
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14 minutes ago, Enterprisingwestern said:

 

I didn't think it needed clarification actually!

 

Mike.

For those who might not get it. Not everyone on here is an old fart.

Edited by 57xx
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Exactoscale ? used to do a kit for a screw link coupling with a threaded bar in the centre which you could actually tighten up. I made a pair once. Just once. Something of a novelty since putting them between two vehicles then tightening them up was beyond my eyesight even then. Now it is beyond my eyesight to even focus a camera on them . Nice on the front of a loco though. 

 

 

 

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198737872_slc1.JPG.49eb68f80a0ce45af29a8caee9a12427.JPG

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I use Brassmasters hooks, and my own 3-links. After my stroke episode, I started making my own, just to retain some level of manual dexterity. For the links, I use staples taken off the row. 1 staple will make about 1.5 3-link coupling,  

 

The look of a locomotive 'taking up' is very prototypical. 

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6 minutes ago, tomparryharry said:

I use Brassmasters hooks, and my own 3-links. After my stroke episode, I started making my own, just to retain some level of manual dexterity. For the links, I use staples taken off the row. 1 staple will make about 1.5 3-link coupling,  

 

The look of a locomotive 'taking up' is very prototypical. 

One problem is using all Steel links is not a lot of good when using a Magnetic pole (as I do , all made  Smiths products), they will bunch up in a nice ball as soon any Magnet gets near them !!.

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59 minutes ago, micklner said:

One problem is using all Steel links is not a lot of good when using a Magnetic pole (as I do , all made  Smiths products), they will bunch up in a nice ball as soon any Magnet gets near them !!.

Hello mate. I don't possess a magnetic pole!

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