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Tony, I'm curious to know what you have done (if anything) about the livery colour rendition difference between the Hornby and Bachmann Pullmans? It's difficult to tell from the photo above but I recall you mentioning it (and putting it aside for another day) in the excellent Modifying RTR Right Track DVD.

Brian,

         The problem with the differences between Hornby's rendition of Pullman's colours and Bachmann's is intractable in my opinion. Certainly, the difference between Hornby's latest cars and Bachmann's Mk.1s is great. It's my belief that Bachmann's umber is a bit too light and Hornby's cream too 'green'. The difference between the two is less on Hornby's original cars (now 'Railroad') but it is still there. 

 

What I did was paint the roofs matt grey over Hornby's slightly absurd silver and Bachmann's equally unlikely white. Though roofs of such brilliance might be seen immediately on leaving Preston Park or Met-Camm's works in the Midlands, for a steam-age depiction, one Up and one Down journey in and out of the 'Cross would soon change that. I also weathered the underframes on all eight cars in my TTP. I then handed the lot over to that master of weathering, Tim Shackleton. Though there are still colour differences, the subtleties of his splendid work really do mask them.

 

The TTP we ran on Stoke Summit was formed of Hornby brakes and Southern Pride Mk.1s. There was almost no colour differences with those, and I think SP's Pullman livery was much nearer the real thing that Bachmann's.   

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@Tony

 

What about dabe Ellis's vac form windows to give flush glazing?

I've used Dave's products in the past but the problem is always there with fill-in glazing; you can still see the deep reveals, maybe not so much in tight perspective but there's always an indication of it. It's made worse in some cases by a kind of 'halo' around the windows, particularly in RTR carriages with so called flush-glazing. Etched brass is far more representative of sheet steel than deeply-recessed plastic - always. 

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The latest Hornby Gresley conversion has now rolled off the "Wright with a bit of Barnatt" production line, this one using Comet sides to create a Dia 114 Brake Second. I really do like these coaches, always have, so this one is particularly welcome.

attachicon.gifbrake 1.jpg

attachicon.gifbrake 2.jpg

 

The BR maroon is looking good but you have numbered the 4-compartment D114 brake second coach as a 1937-build  and it has pre-1931 turnbuckle trussing. A batch of D114's was built in 1931 that may have had the older trussing before angle-truss was introduced, Nos.16358-62, 16324/5, 16396-8 and 16322.

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The latest Hornby Gresley conversion has now rolled off the "Wright with a bit of Barnatt" production line, this one using Comet sides to create a Dia 114 Brake Second. I really do like these coaches, always have, so this one is particularly welcome.

attachicon.gifbrake 1.jpg

attachicon.gifbrake 2.jpg

I've been entrusted again with the painting of the roofs and ends, despite the deficiencies of my last effort. I do hope these meet with Sir's approval, as I don't want to get the ruler when I next visit deepest darkest Lincolnshire.

 

Hi Gilbert

 

The Gresley brake looks great, was it painted with an airbrush or spray can? What shades were used as it seems to me that BR maroon could vary from being really brown and dull when worn to being really bright almost like BR crimson !

 

Thanks, Sam

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The BR maroon is looking good but you have numbered the 4-compartment D114 brake second coach as a 1937-build  and it has pre-1931 turnbuckle trussing. A batch of D114's was built in 1931 that may have had the older trussing before angle-truss was introduced, Nos.16358-62, 16324/5, 16396-8 and 16322.

When Master Barnatt arrives for tuition on Wednesday, the cane is going to be wielded!

 

Because of eyesight problems, Gilbert cannot see closely enough to apply the coach numbers. So, that's one of my jobs in this co-operative. His job was to give me a suitable number from the renowned Mr. Harris book as he sat alongside. Because of the relative difficulties in squeezing all the five digits and two 'Es' into the small space at the one end, I asked for a carriage number with two '1s'. What I should have asked for is a number from a pre-'31 batch with two '1s'. 

 

It'll have to be renumbered now, and as my stock of 'decent' HMRS Sheets No. 14 diminishes at an alarming rate (the most recent sheets are awful with all the characters much, much, too thick), I'll have to find an alternative.

 

I thought 'research' was Gilbert's strong point! Oh well. Still, I thought my research was thorough, too. Not so. I guess we're just a pair of old fogies with rapidly-diminishing faculties.............

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If it helps, Tony, 16351 was from a 1930 batch - unless there were any detail variations from its use as an Ambulance Car during WW2.

 

If we're being thoroughly pedantic, welded (angle) underframes started to appear in 1934.

 

It's a nice looking coach whatever.  I'm pleased you mentioned battery boxes - it took me a moment to work out what was wrong with the picture when I first looked at it.

 

Edit - spelling.

Edited by jwealleans
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When Master Barnatt arrives for tuition on Wednesday, the cane is going to be wielded!

 

Because of eyesight problems, Gilbert cannot see closely enough to apply the coach numbers. So, that's one of my jobs in this co-operative. His job was to give me a suitable number from the renowned Mr. Harris book as he sat alongside. Because of the relative difficulties in squeezing all the five digits and two 'Es' into the small space at the one end, I asked for a carriage number with two '1s'. What I should have asked for is a number from a pre-'31 batch with two '1s'. 

 

It'll have to be renumbered now, and as my stock of 'decent' HMRS Sheets No. 14 diminishes at an alarming rate (the most recent sheets are awful with all the characters much, much, too thick), I'll have to find an alternative.

 

I thought 'research' was Gilbert's strong point! Oh well. Still, I thought my research was thorough, too. Not so. I guess we're just a pair of old fogies with rapidly-diminishing faculties.............

 

If it helps, Tony, 16351 was from a 1930 batch - unless there were any detail variations from its use as an Ambulance Car during WW2.

 

If we're being thoroughly pedantic, welded (angle) underframes stated to appear in 1934.

 

It's a nice looking coach whatever.  I'm pleased you mentioned battery boxes - it took me a moment to work out what was wrong with the picture when I first looked at it.

No cane please sir. Can't I just have lines instead?  I thought I asked if this coach had angle underframes before looking up the numbers, but it seems not. It had been at least a fortnight since we last worked on this coach, and that is far too long ago for me to remember that we used a sleeping car as the donor. That is my only excuse. As to the battery box, that refused to be glued when we tried so to do, so it was given to me to have another go. I know exactly where it is - in an otherwise empty Hornby box......somewhere. Now I have to go and rattle things.

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Hi Gilbert

 

The Gresley brake looks great, was it painted with an airbrush or spray can? What shades were used as it seems to me that BR maroon could vary from being really brown and dull when worn to being really bright almost like BR crimson !

 

Thanks, Sam

Hi Sam,

 

Painted with Halford's spray can, but I've forgotten which shade. I will find out.

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Hi Sam,

 

Painted with Halford's spray can, but I've forgotten which shade. I will find out.

Halford's Ford Burgundy Red acrylic. Two coats of red acrylic primer, then three thin coats of the gloss.

 

Then use your whole vocabulary of profanity as, just as the final coat almost dries perfectly, a tiny insect settles on it!

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If it helps, Tony, 16351 was from a 1930 batch - unless there were any detail variations from its use as an Ambulance Car during WW2.

 

If we're being thoroughly pedantic, welded (angle) underframes started to appear in 1934.

 

It's a nice looking coach whatever.  I'm pleased you mentioned battery boxes - it took me a moment to work out what was wrong with the picture when I first looked at it.

 

Edit - spelling.

Jonathan,

                So I only have to change one digit, unless there were alterations made to it during WW2. 

 

I'm tempted at times to adopt the approach of that great modeller Peter Denny. Because, obviously, nobody made GC transfers in the '40s/'50s (probably '60s/'70s and beyond), he numbered many of his earlier vehicles with squiggles and tiny blobs of paint. When I photographed Buckingham over four years ago this had to be brought to my attention because the effect (from normal viewing distances) was entirely convincing. Brilliant!

 

There are also the footboards to fit and the underfame to be weathered. 

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Great day visiting Peterborough, wonderful buildings and track formation, it inspired me to crack on with Doncaster which has now reached the track laying stage. My bench mark will the standard that Peterborough has achieved, However the stock will be 1961-65 to include several of them tin boxes on wheels and will be controlled by DCC. Thank you Derek on you complimentary remarks.   LNER Rules OK.

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Hi Gilbert,

I have been slowly working my way through this blog for sometime now ( I have now reached page 72) and have resisted all temptation to jump forth.

However I have had to do so (after registering) in order to offer my sincere congratulations on not only having a magnificent layout but it's also an absolute pleasure to read through and very educational.

 

After collecting Pre war era LNER rolling stock for many years in OO (waiting for the day more of my young'uns leave the nest and some room will free up). I can wait no more, reading this blog has forced my hand and I have begun construction of an N gauge layout based around the Eastern region in the 50's. They are turning out some pretty nice stuff in N now.

 

I will be however be hanging on to my OO stable as well, for a later date (in fact I'm still adding to it). Besides no one has said you can't have both :rtfm:  and Locoholism is definitely contagious whatever the scale.

 

Thankyou Gilbert and all those who contribute to this blog for the inspiration to start building.

Once again Fantastic Job on PN.

Regards Ted

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Great day visiting Peterborough, wonderful buildings and track formation, it inspired me to crack on with Doncaster which has now reached the track laying stage. My bench mark will the standard that Peterborough has achieved, However the stock will be 1961-65 to include several of them tin boxes on wheels and will be controlled by DCC. Thank you Derek on you complimentary remarks.   LNER Rules OK.

Looks like you found the pictures then.....

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Great day visiting Peterborough, wonderful buildings and track formation, it inspired me to crack on with Doncaster which has now reached the track laying stage. My bench mark will the standard that Peterborough has achieved, However the stock will be 1961-65 to include several of them tin boxes on wheels and will be controlled by DCC. Thank you Derek on you complimentary remarks.   LNER Rules OK.

Ooh, that's a long time ago now, but I think I still remember it. Glad you enjoyed the day John, and  it will be good to see Doncaster as well as Leeds Central. You miss some rather nice steam classes by starting in 1961 though, what about D49's on the Hull and York locals for a start. Much better than tin boxes on wheels surely.

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So, what have I been doing this week?  Has the whole time been spent searching in the long grass, or in murky ponds and streams, for those elusive little white blighters?  Well, not entirely. Another visit to TW saw the completion of another carriage, but I still have to finish weathering the underframe and numbering that one, so no photos yet. We also made a start on the next one, which caused me some surprise, as I found that I'm actually beginning to enjoy this soldering lark, though that doesn't mean that I'm any good at it....yet.

 

Finishing off the Dia 114 brake last time showed how time consuming the all door stock is when it comes to fitting of grab handles and other such tiny bits, so I don't really want to spend time doing conversions of those, and anyway TW might withdraw his labour if I did, for which I wouldn't blame him in the least.  For that reason, I decided to have a good go at the various Hornby all door stock I have acquired, and see if some careful painting and weathering might make them look passable in a dedicated rake. I'm still ambivalent about them, so your no holds barred opinions based on the following photos would as always be much appreciated.

post-98-0-57480300-1405089800_thumb.jpg

post-98-0-29745500-1405089823_thumb.jpg

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post-98-0-96322800-1405089909_thumb.jpg

post-98-0-89955500-1405089935_thumb.jpg

 

I also decided to try to get a better shot of Pullman Car 32, showing the other side. This time the camera decided that it would go to the opposite extreme, and almost hide the matchboarding completely, which I suppose is better than distorting and fading it. Again, before taking the photos I looked hard and closely at the model to try to see the joins where Tim has cut and shut it, or put in new windows, and just about managed to pick out one of them!

post-98-0-45732800-1405090257_thumb.jpg

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Gilbert My 'no holds barred' opinion is that if they were in 12" to the foot scale I'd not much want to travel in them, so I'd say you've done a pretty god job of capturing them very faithfully!

 

Excellent work as ever

 

Peter

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I have no problem with them .

 

Some make a huge fuss about the tumblehome and then it is gets mentioned it 1mm out at the bottom, the one sad fault is the centre beading  being too low. In LNER it is not that noticable , the coaches suffer most in Blood and Custard livery due to that.

 

 

We are very lucky to have anything even half as good as these as r.t.r.  IMHO.

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Just catching up after holidays.  I see the N5 appeared while we were away!

 

I think the plum 'n' custard Hornby Gresleys look better then the maroon, for reasons I know not.  The tumblehome looks better I suppose to my rather USA attuned eyes!

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Some very nicely weathered stock there Gilbert. How was the weathering achieved or has it already been mentioned and I've missed it on this thread?

 

Best regards,

 

Jeremy

Hi Jeremy,

 

I think I may have covered it, but things do get buried very quickly, so no problem in going through it again. This is a method recommended by Humbrol, which I find works really well. I start with two weathering powders, MIG Black Smoke and Panzer Grey, about two to one ratio. Then add water, and mix to a paste, not too runny. Next comes the clever bit - add a few drops of Humbrol decalfix. Then cover the item to be weathered liberally with the mixture. It doesn't matter how much you put on, in fact it is better to overdo it. Allow to dry, look at it, and think "Oh ****, what have I done, a good model ruined". The weathering will not now come off, however much the model is handled. Unless that is, you apply more water, when you will find that the whole job is now workeable again - you can now take off as much or as little as you wish. I use a piece of kitchen towel on flat areas, and a cotton bud to get into panelling and other such areas. Allow to dry, when once again no amount of handling will remove it, but you still have the option to take more off, or even to put more back on if needed. Takes all the stress out of weathering for me!

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Hi Jeremy,

 

I think I may have covered it, but things do get buried very quickly, so no problem in going through it again. This is a method recommended by Humbrol, which I find works really well. I start with two weathering powders, MIG Black Smoke and Panzer Grey, about two to one ratio. Then add water, and mix to a paste, not too runny. Next comes the clever bit - add a few drops of Humbrol decalfix. Then cover the item to be weathered liberally with the mixture. It doesn't matter how much you put on, in fact it is better to overdo it. Allow to dry, look at it, and think "Oh ****, what have I done, a good model ruined". The weathering will not now come off, however much the model is handled. Unless that is, you apply more water, when you will find that the whole job is now workeable again - you can now take off as much or as little as you wish. I use a piece of kitchen towel on flat areas, and a cotton bud to get into panelling and other such areas. Allow to dry, when once again no amount of handling will remove it, but you still have the option to take more off, or even to put more back on if needed. Takes all the stress out of weathering for me!

 Thanks Gilbert! I've got some Dapol Crimson and Cream Gresley coaches so I'll give this a go. Sounds like a nice, easy and very effective way of weathering stock.

Thank you.

 

Best regards,

 

Jeremy

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