RMweb Gold gwrrob Posted August 15, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 15, 2011 '47? Something like 27 surely with the wagon liveries and lack of wartime changes? Nice to see one on a good run though. Ah but the war never happened on my layout so the POWs are ok. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
craigwelsh Posted August 15, 2011 Share Posted August 15, 2011 Ah but the war never happened on my layout so the POWs are ok. Fair enough Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 46444 Posted August 15, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 15, 2011 Hi Rob, Excellent video. Wish my 3864 could have a chance of hauling a train this size. As for the private owner wagons, most were pooled during the war so the make up of this train is prototypical. Good assortment too. Cheers, Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
craigwelsh Posted August 16, 2011 Share Posted August 16, 2011 Hi Rob, Excellent video. Wish my 3864 could have a chance of hauling a train this size. As for the private owner wagons, most were pooled during the war so the make up of this train is prototypical. Good assortment too. Cheers, Mark My comment wasn't related to the makeup more that the liveries didn't have any wartime lettering and replacement planks on the clean PO wagons and the company wagons generally had the early large GW in evidence. The platform would probably have needed a white line edging it and the engine may have had blackout boards on the windows though im not sure about that.. As there wasn't a war though its fine . Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bike2steam Posted August 16, 2011 Share Posted August 16, 2011 Well I've given in to temptation, and after having pondered for a few days ( hoping they'd sold out ??) I've ordered a Hornby R2919 (38xx, 2891) from Hattons for the excellent price of £69. I'll just have to sell my old example ex tender drive rebuilt with a Comet chassis . Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Piszczek Posted August 18, 2011 Share Posted August 18, 2011 Well I've given in to temptation, and after having pondered for a few days ( hoping they'd sold out ??) I've ordered a Hornby R2919 (38xx, 2891) from Hattons for the excellent price of £69. I passed on the Robinson ROD, and managed to resist the 7f, so I shouldn't have any R2919 guilt either, right? My 1964 Ian Allen ABC still shows forty 3800s in service as of Nov 1964, so quite a few made it till the very end... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bike2steam Posted August 18, 2011 Share Posted August 18, 2011 The little beauty arrived this morning. Talking of 1964, I spent many happy hours in Southall shed, amongst those I saw was 2891, that was my excuse for a must have, apart from having a passion for large freight locos, it'll now be part of the loco stud for my layout which so far includes 7X 8F's, 6x 9F's & 'Duck 8's' etc, etc . Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RussellD Posted August 19, 2011 Share Posted August 19, 2011 I purchased one of these (R2916 No 2812 in GWR shirtbutton livery) and it arrived yesterday. I agree with most of the posts here, it is a delightful model and I am very pleased with it. The cab interior detail is exquisite and I have just found that they supply a scale screw coupling for the front. Very fiddly but does look good. My only (very minor) grumble as has been mentioned by others is the fiddly plug that connects the loco to the tender. One question though, is the coal load removable or is it moulded as part of the tender? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold tetsudofan Posted August 19, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 19, 2011 I've succombed to all the above postings ......and a green GWR-lettered version is on it's way to me Keith Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold gwrrob Posted August 19, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 19, 2011 I One question though, is the coal load removable or is it moulded as part of the tender? Yes it is removeable. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon A Posted August 22, 2011 Share Posted August 22, 2011 Collected my black 38xx from the Post Office this morning. The running is superb. I had no problems releasing the two L shaped pieces of packing metal from the chassis, the screws tightened uo without any problems. The tender drawbar is another story. Firstly mine was mounted the opposite way round to that in Fig 6. As the drawbar appears to give the option of closes coupling I removed the tender screw. This appears to have been secured with blob of glue at the end. On refitting it appears to be holding itself in for the moment. If the tender drawbar is refitted for closer coupling in the orientation as in Fig 6, then it rubs on the wires comeing out of the plug located in the tender socket. I think I will shortening the draw bar sometime in the future. The close coupling is not possible on the loco coupling pin due to a cunning triangular cut out. My only niggles on the details are a) Slide bars - they should be thicker, say 1mm instead of a metal stamping. B) Piston rod - this rod between the piston and the wheels is a fairly hefty piece of kit c) There is no plate on the back of the tender giving its water capacity, number, etc d) It would have been nice if the "coal" was a removeable moulding. As I said these are niggles. This is a very good loco espeacially with the detail between the frames. Also I was impressed that the instructions refered to a 5 pole motor! All in all i am a very happy bunny with this engine. Gordon A Bristol Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darwinian Posted August 25, 2011 Share Posted August 25, 2011 Well I've succumed to temptation too and a GWR shirtbutton version has been ordered from Hattons. I seem to recall that in the MRJ article on the ROD 2-8-0 the wire connections to the tender were just for the DCC connection and were chopped off in the loco and then jumper wires put in until it all worked again. Does anyone know if this will work for the 28xx? I'm never likely to be able to afford to go DCC and getting rid of the dodgy plug in connection sounds like a sensible idea to me . I'll probably change the coal, put in new pony truck wheels and make a few other minor mods too. When I get some time that is! As my layout (under construction) is for 1928-32 I'll have to get rid of the shirtbtton too. Anyone tried to remove the markings from one of these models yet? Adrian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
craigwelsh Posted August 25, 2011 Share Posted August 25, 2011 4 wires go to a DCC socket in the tender - two pickups, two motor, you need to connect the correct pairs back together to get the loco going again. You'll obviously lose tender pickups if you go down this route. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darwinian Posted August 25, 2011 Share Posted August 25, 2011 Craigwelsh, thanks for the heads up about the tender pickups. Guess I'll leave well alone in that case and just put up with keeping the tender and loco connected. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Stationmaster Posted August 25, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 25, 2011 As my layout (under construction) is for 1928-32 I'll have to get rid of the shirtbtton too. Anyone tried to remove the markings from one of these models yet? Adrian Very gentle scraping with the back edge of a knife was recommended to me and it's not too bad but the rivets can be a nuisance so I'm intending to carefully try a glass fibre brush (not one of the 'propelling pen' style) but I shall be doing a total repaint in any case (GW green to BR black ). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timara Posted August 26, 2011 Share Posted August 26, 2011 My only niggles on the details area) Slide bars - they should be thicker, say 1mm instead of a metal stamping. B) Piston rod - this rod between the piston and the wheels is a fairly hefty piece of kit c) There is no plate on the back of the tender giving its water capacity, number, etc d) It would have been nice if the "coal" was a removeable moulding. As I said these are niggles. This is a very good loco espeacially with the detail between the frames. Also I was impressed that the instructions refered to a 5 pole motor! All in all i am a very happy bunny with this engine. Gordon A Bristol Gordon, Grab a scalpel and insert under the coal load at the front - it lifts out revealing a very empty coal space! Having bought one of these very tasty cheap deals myself from the Liverpool emporium (temptation gave in with a vengeance!), it was one of the first things that I noticed could be dealt with . As an aside, while you're mucking about with the tender, I've found it worthwhile to change the rather pathetic piece of metal that purports to act as a weight with some lead sheet cut to fit. It stays on the track now! My only niggle, added to yours, concerns the cylinders, but that's an easy fix with some plastic strip and stuff, plus the relocation of the relief valve. Different matter if the chassis is being given the heave-ho mind..... If the tender drawbar is refitted for closer coupling in the orientation as in Fig 6, then it rubs on the wires coming out of the plug located in the tender socket. I think I will shortening the draw bar sometime in the future. The close coupling is not possible on the loco coupling pin due to a cunning triangular cut out. I've had a thought about this myself and might just resort to a bit of chopping away (carefully) of the offending area and leave it at that. I'm trying to decide whether I can live with it not being quite right or not, but we'll see how the beginning of the "operation" goes first before I give up! Cheers, Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darwinian Posted August 27, 2011 Share Posted August 27, 2011 Well it's arrived, just 48 hours after I placed the order, great service . Same problems with this one as reported above. The tender drawbar screw was glued in and had to be pulled gently whilst turning to get it out, so as to turn the drawbar around. It went back in fairly securely. The front retaining screw is too long to tighten up fully causing the keeper plate to droop and the front brake hangers to catch on my track irregulaties . Sorted by putting a 20 thou, black plasticard, C shaped washer between the screw head and the keeper plate. Running is rather disappointing being quite jerky in both directions at low speed but will hopefully improve after a little lubrication and running in. The GWR green is somewhat lighter than my homebuilt locos' Phoenix precision or Bachmann 56xx colours. I'm considering a respray in pre-1928 green. Great value for such a beutifully detailed model. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Captain Kernow Posted August 27, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 27, 2011 I saw one converted to P4 at RailWells, he'd used a set of Gibson drop-in wheels and very little other modifications, and it ran very well indeed. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Downendian Posted August 28, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 28, 2011 Flip. What are you guys like. I have the willpower of a gnat, just couldn't resist £69, having fancied one of these when they first come out but resisted. I'm with the Paul Mays school of thought, gradually accruing a fleet of big freight 2-8-0s - can't resist em. Frankly can't believe there are many left, another Hattons marketing master stroke. Neil Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Captain Kernow Posted August 28, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 28, 2011 4 wires go to a DCC socket in the tender - two pickups, two motor, you need to connect the correct pairs back together to get the loco going again. You'll obviously lose tender pickups if you go down this route. That's very useful to know, thanks, and presumably applies to all Hornby tender locos wired in the same way? Is there any easy way of telling which wires go with which, or is it a case of hit & miss? (Jury? ) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timara Posted August 29, 2011 Share Posted August 29, 2011 That's very useful to know, thanks, and presumably applies to all Hornby tender locos wired in the same way? Is there any easy way of telling which wires go with which, or is it a case of hit & miss? (Jury? ) Yes. On the 4 pin plug they are wired as adjacent pairs, so it's nice and simple HTH,. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
westerner Posted August 30, 2011 Share Posted August 30, 2011 Whilst unfortunately not having bought one of Hatton's sell offs here is my renumbered and weathered Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darwinian Posted August 31, 2011 Share Posted August 31, 2011 Westerner that looks great! I've got a head scratcher with mine. It runs beautifully on my test track and rolling road under the control of my old H& M Walkabout on it's direct drive setting. However on my layout which has a Morley Vector controller there is noticeable surging, as might be expected if the wheel quatering was out. I've never had this happen with any other loco, including some of my slightly ropey home built ones. They are consistent on both set ups. My Hornby rebuilt Batlle of Britain is fine on both set ups too. If it's just the quartering it must be something marginal and might gradually wear itself smooth. Otherwise I'll be re-wheeling eventually. Odd though. Adrian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon A Posted August 31, 2011 Share Posted August 31, 2011 Tim E, Many thanks for the information re the coal and weighting the tender. I have ordered the Gibson wheels, so the question is can I get the loco converted in time to run on Clutton at Scaleforum? Gordon A Bristol Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Stationmaster Posted August 31, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 31, 2011 Whilst unfortunately not having bought one of Hatton's sell offs here is my renumbered and weathered Looks nice - what did you use on the rods Alan? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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