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bugs bunny

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In the spirit of getting fiddle yard bits sorted, the connector to get fitted to the middle board has been mounted in a 'bracket' ready for screwing on (somehow). Alan, do you want me to post this bit to you or just have it with me ready for next time i see you to screw it on then?

 

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And here's the wires coming out the back of it ready for fitting in the choc-block on the board.

 

The big black cable with the spread ends has been generously supplied by a local generic telecomms engineer and will become the connecting cable from the main panel to the middle of the fiddle yard.

 

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Ends fitted to cable. Spare 5 wires wrapped around to help with strength and form as a flexible 90 degree angle is going to be added to each end.

 

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Ends now electrical tapped into shape (not a job I enjoy, I can never do tape wrapping neatly) and plugged into each end. One part completed at least :-)

 

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Started running wires from switches to relays inside the panel as well. Control side of the 'Shunter' part is nearly complete, just LED route indicators left to tackle.

 

THAT IS ALL

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Had some new containers on my train again today which I've not seen before, now on their way to Daventry then onwards to Warren Lane oops sorry Tilbury!

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They do appears occasionally on the train, they appear more now than they used to, think I filmed 66303 on this train with a few of the inter bulk ones on

Nice pictures!

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Hi Matt

 

Superb work on the control panel..

 

I think the middle board will fit in my car...so will be able to test that  when you are ready.

 

Going away for a few days..talk soon

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Hi Matt

 

Superb work on the control panel..

 

I think the middle board will fit in my car...so will be able to test that  when you are ready.

 

Going away for a few days..talk soon

Will try and have something definate finished by the time you re-appear.

 

 

HI All

 

Now you shouldn't say such things.

 

Regards Arran

Nice, you always bring the best goodies Arran!

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"A lot of brass work would be needed to create the correct legs but the open frame for the head to run along is roughly right. It would be a huge model, kibri gantry is 16inches across, new legs would need to be about twice as high as the model currently is to be the equivalent of the new cranes, and the legs would need to be wide enough to pass 45ft boxes. Between the legs would span roughly 5 tracks with space for 2 lorries side by side through the set of angled legs. AND CAN YOU ALL STOP GIVING ME IDEAS!!!!! Making operate is the tricky bit..."

 

 

 

Have you started it yet????

 

 

 

 

I'll get me coat.

 

Pete

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here's are my latest weathers done by dan. freightliner may appear on warren lane

 

firstly my second weathered freightliner:

 

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secondly my network rail 97:

 

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hope you like them.

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Welcome to the exclusive club. :jester:  I was watching them, you got them at a good price.

I must admit I'm very pleased. And was happy with the price too. Just got to receive them now and give them run in. Then sound chip them. Not sure whether to sound just one or both. What do you think?

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Both! The subtle wiring and set up differences of chips that are all supposed to be identical could give you a nice off beat variation between the 2 sounds as they run along. (I'm guessing you're thinking of chipping them both with identical chips on the same address anyway?)

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Hi

You could add a separate speaker only in one of the class 20

I have successfully done this and have also removed the drive spindle from a Lima

20 so that I can run my 20's  in pairs using only 1 Decoder

David Wexford

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A brief interlude from Class 20 chat with a step by step guide to 'neatly' conecting wires to the Heljan Container Terminal controller. This is mostly for my benefit so i know what i did the first time when i come to do more. Sorry for the poor picture quality, they were taken with my ancient mobile.

As it stands, the controller requires 4 wires connecting to the terminals along it's top edge.

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It would be a lot more useful if the wires connected to the bottom. The main in-use Warren Lane controllers are hooked up to the top and then the wires are taped down the back of the controller and head off the bottom. There's also a small issue that the cables on the current in-use controllers aren't quite long enough to reach all the way to the floor when not being held and so end up hanging under the layout.

What would be useful is longer wires coming out of the bottom of the controller. 2 problems, the bottom of the controller is smooth:

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and there's nowhere ready made to run the wires from the top other than the straight out of the connecting block.

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There's obviously a limited number of users of these controllers out there, but this may be of benefit to other similar designs anyway.

Undo the 5 screws in the back which hold everything together.
 

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Carefully remove all the buttons from the front (to avoid accidental damage and give more space for movement) then with a small half-round file remove a tiny amount of plastic from each inside edge of where the connector blocks poke through the case, but without damaging the outside of the case.

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and this blurry picture shows the result sat back over the board. The closest block surround has had bits removed, the far one hasn't yet.

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After those 4 little edges are done, mark the centre of the bottom of the case (120mm case, 60mm centre) I just cut a groove into it with the edge of the file.

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Using the small half round file and the previously marked groove as a guide, file down enough to allow 4 wires to pass through, keeping in mind there is a 1mm lip to the back of the case.

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Next up, the buttons are carefully added back to the case.

 

5 feet of 4 wires twisted together have their ends stripped. a suitable connector is added at one for plugging into the layout.

 

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The other ends are then fitted into the top of the controller. Remember to make a note of which wire was where in the connector at the other end. Connector used above can at least be easily swapped around if i've got it wrong.

 

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Carefully flip the wires over the top of the control board and bend them to shape to work closely around the edges of the connectors and across the board to the bottom. run them to avoid all button contacts and screw holes. little bits of electrical tape help keep things in place and a slightly large piece at the bottom to hold it there.
 

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Fit the cover back on, line up the wires coming out of the bottom of the controller to fit through the new hole, then tighten the 5 screws that hold it all together back up. A bit more electrical tape has been added for security.

 

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And at the top the 4 wires (and importantly what colour they are!) can be seen fitting through the new gaps to each side of the connectors.

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Much neater  :-)

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Well, the right side is a big 3 phase motor, the left of the unit looks to be a blower (for cooling?) and quite what the big drum in the middle is i'm not sure...... the big give-away is in the picture but i can't quite work out what exactly it does on the bigger item in question ;-)

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