LMS Stanier D1915 Open 3rd Coach

[Barry O]

OK there follows some pics and the camera is SO unkind!

 

End 'B' 5522 etches; (alarm gear looking very alarmed by that top step!!)

End 'A' 5522 etches

 

 

 

Little bit of a problem here - Alistairs' etched ends are for a Period 3 coach - they may need a bit of work.

 

The 5522 bogies were probably designed for EM as that was the gauge Alisatir used.

[Brian Kirby]

Here you are Chris, you were asking whether sliced electrical tape would be any good for beading on a Bulleid coach. This is a Restaurant Composite Open, Comet sides on a Southern Pride shell. The waist height full length beading is tape, the roof rainstrips are plastic strip, although you could probably use tape for that as well, or else a double layer. I also scored a line in the brass, along the top of the solebar level, they appear to have had a join or seam there too.

Sorry about the lousy pics, these were taken years ago, with an old technology camera.

Cheers, Brian. (Toot,toot !)

 

[Mallard60022]

Interesting use of electrical tape for the roof joints. Many Bulleid Southern coaches had long strips added to the coach sides to reinforce the butt welds and I have been wondering how best to add these....

 

TOOT TOOT, come back Larry.

 

Bloomin' heck Brian. That's a cracker of a feeding wagon. How was the fit of the Comets on the SP bits? Looks fine to me from these pics.

I've got the full monty Comet for this one and the modifeid 'Tavern' in my drawer of "I'll do that one next week" kits!

 

Another gem of an idea from Spams & very much demonstrated by Brian. Well done old bean as those strips are so prominent in the pics in the King 'bible'. I'd wondered how to do those too!

Think we are a bit off the LMS subject now though;)

36E

 

HONK HONK, wake up Larry!

[2ManySpams]

Here you are Chris, you were asking whether sliced electrical tape would be any good for beading on a Bulleid coach. This is a Restaurant Composite Open, Comet sides on a Southern Pride shell. The waist height full length beading is tape, the roof rainstrips are plastic strip, although you could probably use tape for that as well, or else a double layer. I also scored a line in the brass, along the top of the solebar level, they appear to have had a join or seam there too.

Sorry about the lousy pics, these were taken years ago, with an old technology camera.

Cheers, Brian. (Toot,toot !)

 

 

Thanks Brian

Strangely I'm also using SP bodies with Comet sides....

Did you slice the tape to size first then add it carefully to the coach or slice the tape straight on the coach and then remove the waste?

 

Cheers (HONK HONK)

 

Chris

[Mallard60022]

Little bit of a problem here - Alistairs' etched ends are for a Period 3 coach - they may need a bit of work.

 

The 5522 bogies were probably designed for EM as that was the gauge Alisatir used.

 

Ah, that must be why I b*****ed the ends up. Not me at all, it was the wrong ends my lud!

Cheers Chessie. I'd never heard of Alistair's bits before laying my mits on this little mixed bag of goodies.

Think this particular item may end up on that auction site or in the Engineers' Dept siding at the local MR club!

Strangely the only layout (if you can call it that at the moment) I've got is EM and so I could have a bash at these 5522 bogies in EM now I've got some instructions (thanks to RP's SWMBO)

36E

[Brian Kirby]

Hi Chris,

I sliced and pre-cut the tape overlength, then laid it on from the middle. Be careful not to pull it too hard or it will stretch and then shrink back later. The same thing will happen if you do it on a boiling hot day or with the heating way up and then it cools down later and contracts. The safest bet is to leave it to settle for a few minutes before trimming, otherwise it's easy. BTW, i put it straight on to the raw brass, but it can be added later. Cellulose primer (car spray) should hold it in position.

I've just noticed on my poor photos, that you can't see the scored solebar line !

Cheers, Brian. (Honk,honk)

P.S. The curtain colours are not strictly kosher, they're just a good contrast with the green and look a bit 1950ish.

[Brian Kirby]

I just noticed that my previous post contained an unintended "double-entendre" in the second and third sentences. We are talking about sticky tape on model trains ! BK (Beep,beep)

 

Be careful not to pull it too hard or it will stretch and then shrink back later. The same thing will happen if you do it on a boiling hot day or with the heating way up and then it cools down later and contracts.

[Brian Kirby]

Did anyone spot the numbering mistake on my Bulleid RCO ? As my colleague wearing the golden anorak has just quite rightly pointed out, the number should also have an 'S' suffix. Ooh eck, time to dig out said coach from it's box. I blame it on stress and over-work. Now where are my transfers ? BK (Beep,beep)

[the penguin of doom]

Parp, Parp!

OK Penguin, if you be making reference to my heap then the doors are part of the inner end etch of the 5522 parts. The 5522 ends are a clever (if a little fiddley) two part job.

The attached is a (Australian version) copy of some of the 5522 instructions ; it shows the end construction.

36E

 

Cheers Mallard.

 

One question, Am I really lathered, (and believe me, at this point, I AM), or is that link upside down????

 

God bless wireless internet and lap tops.....

 

Cheers.

 

Sean.

[the penguin of doom]

Here you are Chris, you were asking whether sliced electrical tape would be any good for beading on a Bulleid coach. This is a Restaurant Composite Open, Comet sides on a Southern Pride shell. The waist height full length beading is tape, the roof rainstrips are plastic strip, although you could probably use tape for that as well, or else a double layer. I also scored a line in the brass, along the top of the solebar level, they appear to have had a join or seam there too.

Sorry about the lousy pics, these were taken years ago, with an old technology camera.

Cheers, Brian. (Toot,toot !)

 

 

Hi Brian.

 

Hmmmn, the Bulleid looks great, but that Pullmans awesome too. Nice work.

 

Eeermmm.

 

Haw he haw haw.

 

That horn sound sounds much better in my head that it does written down.....

[Mallard60022]

Cheers Mallard.

One question, Am I really lathered, (and believe me, at this point, I AM), or is that link upside down????

God bless wireless internet and lap tops.....

Cheers.

Sean.

 

Yes it is. I received it that way. Hence the Aussy jibe!

LOUD claxon!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

36E:P

[Mallard60022]

I just noticed that my previous post contained an unintended "double-entendre" in the second and third sentences. We are talking about sticky tape on model trains ! BK (Beep,beep)

 

 

 

Classic!

36E

[2ManySpams]

Hi Chris,

I sliced and pre-cut the tape overlength, then laid it on from the middle. Be careful not to pull it too hard or it will stretch and then shrink back later. The same thing will happen if you do it on a boiling hot day or with the heating way up and then it cools down later and contracts. The safest bet is to leave it to settle for a few minutes before trimming, otherwise it's easy. BTW, i put it straight on to the raw brass, but it can be added later. Cellulose primer (car spray) should hold it in position.

I've just noticed on my poor photos, that you can't see the scored solebar line !

Cheers, Brian. (Honk,honk)

P.S. The curtain colours are not strictly kosher, they're just a good contrast with the green and look a bit 1950ish.

 

Thanks Brian - I'll give it a go.

[Brian Kirby]

I managed to find some time to prime the body and chassis, and then spray the chassis black. Here's the reason for cutting the doors from the etched M&L sides, all four doors can now be opened and closed. This is actually my third coach to have Bri's latest crazy idea, the first two were BR Mk1s. The "hinges" are made from my favourite sticky tape, which is also superglued for security. The doors are held shut with internal magnets, they are opened using a hand-held magnet to the outside. When let go, the internal magnets will also draw the door shut.

Cheers, Brian.

 

[BernardTPM]

So, strategically located electro magnets in the station buildings will draw the doors open when the train stops. Heh - ramp up the Amps! Brilliant, Brian.

[60B]

Brian, you sir an ambitious and brilliant man. What will you think of next? People getting on an off? Unloading mail?

[chrisf]

Extending the idea to suburban stock, perhaps? Well done Brian!

 

Chris

[Taz]

Mad, but brilliant.

 

Is there a practical reason for doing this or is it just a personal challenge you set yourself?

[Brian Kirby]

Thanks Everyone,

Yes, the men in white coats are coming to get me later on. Two reasons for doing it, apart from the wheels turning, it's the next obvious movement on a coach. Second reason is, with all this high quality RTR around, this is a way of rejuvenating kits and giving them an edge over RTR.

I've thought about extending this idea to suburban stock, but that would need a lot more magnets and the added weight could become a problem. Although as Bernie hinted, as the train arrives, it would be fun to activate a big electro-magnet and open all the doors at the same time !

Here are some more pics, showing the door closing sequence. Having let go, the magnets inside pull the doors shut.

Cheers, Brian.

 

[BernardTPM]

Of course, you now need to model the inside of the door, Brian. And don't forget that bit near the bottom that fits into the floor

[2ManySpams]

Thanks Everyone,

Yes, the men in white coats are coming to get me later on. [

 

Brian I think they have you on their radar... if you then start moving people in and out of the coach and doing all the voices then I suspect they'll be racing over at speed!

 

All the best (great modelling)

 

Chris

[gwrrob]

Brian.Will the doors be able to open at a scale 20mph so the passengers can jump off at a station the train doesn't stop at.My old man used to do that at Totnes in the 50's with the guard shouting the train isn't stopping here !

[Mallard60022]

Brian.Will the doors be able to open at a scale 20mph so the passengers can jump off at a station the train doesn't stop at.My old man used to do that at Totnes in the 50's with the guard shouting the train isn't stopping here !

 

 

Firstly, good grief Brian; your doors open and close - amazing!

Right, I am now going to devise a toilet flushing device so that distinctive (with emphasis on the stinct) 'burst' of spray/mist issues from under the correct part of the coach as a train passes. However, will I need a magnet? I won't bother with 'weathering' the 4' to indicate what was deposited!

 

Secondly, Rob was your dad fined for departing the train too early? He must have been a secret 'stunt man'!

Phil @36E

[gwrrob]

 

Secondly, Rob was your dad fined for departing the train too early? He must have been a secret 'stunt man'!

Phil @36E

 

You used to get away with things when your'e a teenager in the 50s.Times have changed.The doors are locked now.

[Brian Kirby]

When i tried this first on a couple of Mk1s, i just used sticky tape straight across the inside of the body and doors. This would only give a restricted opening, since the "hinge" or pivoting point was also on the inside, whereas of course the prototype hinges are on the outside. I decided against moving door handles for locking the doors, far too fiddly and it would scratch the paintwork. My solution was to use internal magnets with patches of tinplate on the inside of the brass doors. A neater answer may be make the whole door out of tinplate ?

Cheers, Brian.