scot6p Posted June 22, 2012 Share Posted June 22, 2012 Hi OzzyO, did you manage to take some photo's of the intermediate buffers, I have a small lathe so I might be able to turn it up on this, Thanks Len Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fay Posted June 22, 2012 Share Posted June 22, 2012 Its about time you changed the title of this thread, I know you have already started the next project Mr Oz Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted June 22, 2012 Author Share Posted June 22, 2012 Hello all, the title has changed so I'm now starting on a G.W.R. County 4-6-0. As normal I'm starting with the tender, Hawksworth tenders came in two widths 8' and 8'6" the Counties were the only locos fitted with the 8'6" tenders all other classes were fitted with the 8' tenders. So what do you get in the box? The inner frames, these are a fold up job with some extra spacers to solder in place. These come in two widths 7mm F/S and S7 now I don't know how the S7 boys will get on with the fold up frames? The etched sprung horn guides and blocks that I will be using, The brass etches, as with most J.L.T.R.T. kits the tenders sides and rear is in one piece, The brass castings, about the only ones that I wont be using are the intermediate buffers, these will be replaced with sprung ones (scot6p I'll post some photos up soon), The white metal casting, I prefer the brakes and hanger in brass, but I'll still use the W/M ones, The resin inner body, AKA the brick More to follow soon. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mswjr Posted June 22, 2012 Share Posted June 22, 2012 Nice to see ya back Ozzyo Ive been missing your builds Garry Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted June 22, 2012 Share Posted June 22, 2012 Looking forwaqrd to this one. I always wanted to see a County, but never did. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted June 22, 2012 Author Share Posted June 22, 2012 Hello scot6p, all, how I modify the Slater's 4mm L.M.S. sprung buffers in to 7mm G.W.R. intermediate sprung buffers. I do think that it helps with the running of the tender and the front end of the loco (in that it helps damp out any wiggle). The parts from Slater's, OK for 4mm locos as they are, but no good for me. The turning adaptor, IIRC 1/4" brass with the end turned to 2.65mm and tapped 12BA, A buffer body on the adaptor, if I was going to turn this, I would clip off the corners before turning it. All the above mounted in the lathe, As if by magic, the square end has gone, all you have to work to is the body dia. forget the mounting end for the 4mm boys. The body works out to about 1/8" (3.2mm). The same as above but showing the collar that is left in position. All the parts after turning. The same as above but assembled, I blacken the buffer heads and shanks before I assemble them, after they're in place I apply a small amount of oil to the rear shank after locking the nut in place with some nail varnish. OzzyO. PS. would yous like to see the instructions for the tender? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted June 22, 2012 Share Posted June 22, 2012 As you have brass bar, why not just buy the heads and springs and turn the housing? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted June 22, 2012 Author Share Posted June 22, 2012 As you have brass bar, why not just buy the heads and springs and turn the housing? Time! Plus I don't know if I could just get the buffer heads from Slater's. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted June 22, 2012 Share Posted June 22, 2012 Hello Matey, Glad to see you back with another build, especially being a GWR loco . The county is one of my favourite locos and I think they were the unsung heroes on the western region. Is this one for Steve ? ATB, Martyn. P.S. This should help me get my mojo back . Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike G Posted June 23, 2012 Share Posted June 23, 2012 You appear to get an awful lot for your money in terms of the tender, the castings look really good. As to fold up chassis...seems to have taken in most P4 circles, Brassmasters, Bill Bedford and High Level all do fold ups, I'm not completely convinced over the Brassmasters design because they re-use the chassis from the original model, this means the motor is not part of the springing arrangement, so what happens when the driven wheel goes over a bump or even worse drops? You can see the concern...anyway, I shall enjoy the thread, your building and write ups are always informative and fun. cheers Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted June 23, 2012 Author Share Posted June 23, 2012 Hello all, no it's not for Steve sorry, your not back on the fags are you? If you are your a bad boy. On the Hawksworth tenders I tend to jump about a bit to start with not like on my Churchward tender builds. Setting up the front and middle horn guides, (I don't think that you need to see me cutting out the gaps [do you?]), I will set the middle axle box so that the stops are about 0.025" above normal ride hight. All six horn guides in place. If you're going to spring all six box's you will need to drill two holes (about 3mm) above the rear axle so you can get your screwdriver in. On this set of frames I've taped the brake hanger pivots 12BA and drilled them 0.55mm dia. 2mm to the rear of the pivots for the safety chain I may move these back by 1mm later. The same as above showing how the horn guides have been filed to the shape of the frames. In the best Blue Peter tradition, here's one I made earlier. On to the outer frames, these have been riveted and folded to shape and soldered in place, in this photo the footplate is in place (tank base), this is to help when I start fitting the front and rear buffer beam overlays and the hanging plates. You will see that two of the holes are marked with green pen these are to be counter sunk for 8BA screws. In this photo you can see the tabs from the outer frames showing through the footplate along with all six fixing nuts ( if your doing an 8' tender you may have to reduce the outside of the four nut along the sides), most of the slots that you can see around the edges are for the tank inner body to fit in to. The rivets have still to be embossed along the edges and rear of the footplate. A bit more Blue Peter. more to follow soon, OzzyO. PS. I do have a set of notes for building one of these if you get stuck, just PM me for a set. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted June 23, 2012 Share Posted June 23, 2012 your not back on the fags are you? If you are your a bad boy. Nah no rollies for me, I just thought it was a cool emcon . ATB, Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fay Posted June 23, 2012 Share Posted June 23, 2012 Hello Matey, Glad to see you back with another build, especially being a GWR loco . The county is one of my favourite locos and I think they were the unsung heroes on the western region. Is this one for Steve ? ATB, Martyn. P.S. This should help me get my mojo back . Wish it was for me, I'm with you on the County. But unfortunatley not. Will have to have one especially for Ranelagh. My castle 5043 is next to come home then it will be a condensing pannier. Nothing says west London like a condensing pannier. But when I do have a county it will be 1020 County of Monmouth. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted June 26, 2012 Author Share Posted June 26, 2012 Hello all, more work on the outer frames, the next parts to be fitted are the tank outer supports, the first job is to emboss the rivets. Folding them in to shape. All eight in place, you can just make out in this photo that the rear one has two different angles on it, make sure that you get them on the correct sides as the different angle is for the fit of the rear steps. The valance in place this part is all half etched so it's a bit fragile until it's in place. The same as above but more from the side. But you can see the difference of the angles on the rear support. On the valance there are two patterns of rivets at the front and rear, the end with the most rivets goes to the front and the single rivet in the vee's to the bottom. Folding the steps backing plates to shape, take your time with this to get a good fit with the front and rear tank supports. The backing plates in place, the rear one may look a bit out but it's not, it's all down to the camera angle. You can also see the counter sinks for the side fixing screws. My next post is going to have a bit of a different content to this and all my other post up to now. With a bit of luck I should be posting it about tea time. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted June 26, 2012 Share Posted June 26, 2012 Ozzy, why do you start with the tender? Is there a reason, or just personal preference? A bloke I worked with built a 5" gauge Black 5. He started with the tender, because he had read that many people who build the loco first, then rush the tender, or end up running it with a wagon behind it just because they want to see it running. That's not relevant in 7mm, surely? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted June 26, 2012 Share Posted June 26, 2012 I build the tenders first too. It helps to find out what the kit is like, and when you finish the loco you can run them together and do haulage tests if you wish to. Also with me by the time the loco is built I am losing interest, and would rush the tender. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted June 26, 2012 Share Posted June 26, 2012 Same reason as in the larger scale, then. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckjumper Posted June 26, 2012 Share Posted June 26, 2012 I too build the tender first as I usually have pickups (more often than not split axles) on the tender only, leaving the loco itself electrically dead thus avoiding hiding wiring between the frames or the chance of it interfering with inside motion. The only reason I'd have extra pickups on the loco is if the tender only had four wheels. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted June 26, 2012 Author Share Posted June 26, 2012 Hello Jeff all, As much as anything habit, also I think that I could be tempted to try rushing the tender if I built the loco first. On a first build of a new kit manufacture to me I think it helps me to get into the designers head, and helps to see how the kit may go together. In my last message I mentioned that I was going to do something a bit different. If you go back a while I had to do a heart transplant on a King. Well I've had the heart in the workshop and been thinking can I do a bypass job on it. So I made a start with measuring the length of the motor shaft 8.5mm Then measuring the shaft pushed to it's limit 10mm, so I have 1.5mm end float. This seems a heck of a lot. So I opened it up and this is what I found, a skew wound 5 pole armature with a small commutator and nice light springs and big brushes. Looking at the end of the armature this is what I found, lots of muck and signs of wear on the end of the windings one more so than the others. After a quick clean this is what I found, it looks like one of the wires has been worn through. Looking at it more closely it has been worn through. So is any wonder that the loco had no grunt. I did think about soldering a bridge piece in place. Then I thought life's to short. So in future all motors will be checked, no matter what the make. It took Steve and myself a while to find what the problem was as we both thought that it was the DCC chip. After the setting had been reset and it was no better we were thinking that the chip was faulty. So the chip was taken out, the running was no better, so it had to be the motor. It was the last link in the chain, but you don't think that a brand new motor of a good make will be at fault. Lesson learnt. OzzyO. PS. so what I thought was going to be add a shim washer to the shaft , turned into a dead motor. Edit for spelling. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted June 26, 2012 Author Share Posted June 26, 2012 Hello all, after the dead motor it was back to the tender build. The first job was to score the fold lines to help with the folding of the steps. On the underside you can make out the scores in the brass. The fold lines near to the rivets has still to be done. About three passes with a Stanley knife is all that's required. The order that I use for folding up the steps. The steps in place. Setting the depth of the drill for the buffer bodies, stock photo. The buffer bodies drilled out to 4.1mm and a small chamfer to the ends of the bodies. The rear buffer beam with most of its fittings in place, all that has to be fitted is the chain for the steam heat pipe bag end. The buffer heads and coupling will be fitted after priming. The front drag beam with the intermediate buffer bodies in place from the outside and inside. A nut has still to be fitted for the draw bar screw and the footplate drilled and tapped. The draw bar slot has to be opened out sideways as the draw bar will not swing as the beam has been etched. One or two bits still to be fitted before cleaning and gritblasting. The axle box's and springs will go on after gritblasting. Then it's back onto the inner frames or the body? OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted June 26, 2012 Share Posted June 26, 2012 It sees to be building quite nicely. The resin tender body looks like a time saver. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted June 27, 2012 Author Share Posted June 27, 2012 Hello Peter, the brick helps to cut down time in the tender bunker as it saves you having to form a lot of curves and getting all the complex shapes to fit. It still needs some work but not as much as if making it all from flat pieces of metal. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted June 27, 2012 Share Posted June 27, 2012 I have an old College kits 43xx in the cupboard. I have made a start with that and as you say the forming takes ages to do. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted June 27, 2012 Share Posted June 27, 2012 I have an old College Kits 43xx in the cupboard, I have made a start on it's tender and the forming is very time consuming. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted June 27, 2012 Share Posted June 27, 2012 .....hart transplant on a King....... Was this for a stag do? Hope the job wasn't "deer". Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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