Sandy Harper Posted May 8, 2013 Share Posted May 8, 2013 What is that enormous T shaped girder for, across the top of the firebox? Sandy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted May 8, 2013 Author Share Posted May 8, 2013 What is that enormous T shaped girder for, across the top of the firebox? Sandy Hello Sandy, there are two of them one just behind the smokebox and the one over the firebox, all I can think that they are for is to stop the tanks from spreading. Most tank locos just use small brackets attached to the boiler and tank tops. OzzyO. PS. they may be called saddle beams. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted May 8, 2013 Share Posted May 8, 2013 Hello Sandy, there are two of them one just behind the smokebox and the one over the firebox, all I can think that they are for is to stop the tanks from spreading. Most tank locos just use small brackets attached to the boiler and tank tops. OzzyO. PS. they may be called saddle beams. That makes sense! Sandy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin parks Posted May 8, 2013 Share Posted May 8, 2013 Hi Ozzyo, There has been some heroic work on your part to get this Pannier loco into shape. The close-up of that repair to the chimney is really impressive - an invisible repair! All the best, Colin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted May 9, 2013 Author Share Posted May 9, 2013 Hi Paul, Um, the gauge frame... is that the GWR Oz version (for fitting when Pendennis went to Oz-land). regards, Graham Hello Graham, all, what a pity that you did not post your reply when I posted this photo on 9/3/13 As you can see that I have fitted the water gauge up-side down, why I don't know. But by the time you had posted it was too late as the loco was been delivered on the 4th. The backhead with a coat of paint on, the pipework will be picked out by Conrad, and in the cab, I may just see about turning up a billy can for one of my next ones, The next half dozen or so photo show the body in the spray booth. When I'm spraying I do the underneath first as you can see in the first two photos. Then turn the body the right way up and get all of the rest. I do it this way as any marks in the paint from the pins will not be seen rather than risk having two marks on the cab roof. It there are marks on the roof after the first coat, the second coat smooths them out, The body hanging out to dry on the radiator, along with the backhead, I tend to do this for about twelve hours before fitting them all together, The body with it's copper and brass work fitted, The complete job, engine and tender, so it's now a loco, Just for my mate Steve, the mec, lub. While I've been writing this the 15xx has been in the paint booth getting it's first coat of primer, then I'll be able to see how much filling in of the aero bar I have to do. Some of it I maybe able to do using filler primer but I think that a good bit will involve knifing filler. With a bit of luck the gearbox will be here in the next hour or so, then I'll be-able to get to work on the frames as well. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fay Posted May 9, 2013 Share Posted May 9, 2013 I WANT!!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
asa Posted May 9, 2013 Share Posted May 9, 2013 Fantastic job again Oz. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted May 9, 2013 Author Share Posted May 9, 2013 Hello all, as I mentioned in one of my last messages the gear wheel was getting striped, you can see that A) the worm was off centre to the worm wheel, B ) the amount of wear on the wheel is amazing after such a short time. Well it had to happen, the wheel striped. The worm was only set into the wheel to about half the depth of the teeth. If the gearbox had been set up correctly when it was first made this would not have happened. This is the replacement from Bill at Premier, I only had time to give it about 1/2 an hours running before it was time for tea. Nice and quiet, a bit of noise from the plungers as they bed in but that's nothing to worry about. The body in the spray booth getting ready for it's first coat of primer. As you can see I've still to do the masking off. Now I've used the paint stand a few times I'm thinking about reducing the length of the screwed portion to just above the hight of the nut. The primer now on the body, you can see a gap between the top feed and the safety valve bonnet, and a small gap by the cab beading. Now lets have a close look at the body! It looks like the filler is coming out tomorrow. That will be fun! NOT. Has OzzyO gone mad? starting to put some of the top coat on before all the filling has been done. Not really as this black paint is matt and I want it nice and hard before I have to mask it off so that I can paint the rest of the body in satin black. After these photos were taken I decided to give the injectors a coat of matt black, with a bit of luck it may help hide the deficiency in the castings. With a lot of luck I hope to be putting the satin black on tomorrow. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coldgunner Posted May 10, 2013 Share Posted May 10, 2013 Just looking at your progress Ozzy, would you recommend the Hall (or any JLTRT kit) to a newbie such as myself? I'm coming to the end of my connessieur starter loco, then Ivor next, but after that I want to be a bit more ambitious. Currently interested in either a JLTRT Hall or King (Possibly 6000 KGV) or a DJH gresley pacific. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
asa Posted May 10, 2013 Share Posted May 10, 2013 A couple of tins of Cataloy needed there Oz.Can you still get that stuff,it's been years since I had to patch up bangers,cars are so much better nowadays. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted May 10, 2013 Author Share Posted May 10, 2013 Just looking at your progress Ozzy, would you recommend the Hall (or any JLTRT kit) to a newbie such as myself? I'm coming to the end of my connessieur starter loco, then Ivor next, but after that I want to be a bit more ambitious. Currently interested in either a JLTRT Hall or King (Possibly 6000 KGV) or a DJH gresley pacific. Hello Coldgunner, I've just had a look at your thread in 7mm+ modelling and see that Jim's kit for the Y7 is your first go at kit-building. For a second loco the Hall and the King maybe pushing it. The Gresley pacific I think would be too much with all the out side valve gear (but only you know what you can do). If you do want to go down the quality kit road, why not have a look at the following kits from JLTRT. 2251, resin boiler and tender block, so a lot of the hard forming is done for you. 56xx resin boiler. 44 or45xx these two don't have a resin boiler so you would have to form them yourself. Or you could have a look at the Gladiator kits range, one that could be a good second loco kit is the F.R. Baltic tank. No valve gear, parallel boiler, flat tank sides and quit a large loco. As with all brass kits you will have to use solder to construct them and as I said only you know what you are capable of doing. If anyone has any other ideas please feel to comment. OzzyO. PS. are you going to Cleckheaton show on the 1/6/13? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted May 10, 2013 Share Posted May 10, 2013 I love the Hall hanging on the radiator to dry. Knowing my luck, if I did that, it would leave marks on the radiator, or would stick to the radiator and pull paint off the Hall. That Aero bar looks like it's going to be fun. A couple of hours' work just filling, then sanding back...... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coldgunner Posted May 10, 2013 Share Posted May 10, 2013 Doubt I could Ozzy, sounds fun but too far off the beaten track for me (3 hours+ train), Only dead cert I can put myself down for is Warley in November. Though going to keep me eye on the calendar for shows out my way. My great fear is rolling a boiler as its probably one of the key bits that its imperative that its done right, amongst many fo course. Having a pre-formed boiler certainly removes some of that worry. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted May 10, 2013 Share Posted May 10, 2013 Some come with pre-rolled boiler, but there is usually bending, or some small curve forming to do. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted May 11, 2013 Share Posted May 11, 2013 Hi Coldgunner Doubt I could Ozzy, sounds fun but too far off the beaten track for me (3 hours+ train), Only dead cert I can put myself down for is Warley in November. Though going to keep me eye on the calendar for shows out my way. My great fear is rolling a boiler as its probably one of the key bits that its imperative that its done right, amongst many fo course. Having a pre-formed boiler certainly removes some of that worry. As Ozzy has invited others to comment, I'll throw my two penny worth in. The great thing about groups like this, and the Gauge 0 Guild, is that you get to know people who have different skills to yours and they are very happy to share their particular skills with other members of the group. I would agree with Ozzy that a large engine, like what you were thinking about, might just be a step too far and if it all went wrong it can put some people off completely. Don't be too concerned about tasks like rolling boilers. They are actually quite easy once you have done a few and you don't necessarily need expensive rolling bars either. Don't get me wrong, they are useful and get the job done quickly but, many modellers over the years have managed well enough without them. The other option is to tap one of your new found friends on these sites and ask them to do it for you, if you are not confidant enough. I have a friend who lives on the Welsh coast who has difficulties with GWR tender flares. Now they are more difficult than boilers!! He sends me the etch, I bend it up for him and then send it back. When I visit his garden railway he puts me up in his house for the weekend. Everyone's a winner. A third option is to ask the kit supplier to bend up the bits that you don't want to do your self. He will charge you of course but, it could be a lot less painful than making a mess of it. Regards Sandy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted May 11, 2013 Share Posted May 11, 2013 .....That Aero bar ...... Looks more like Wispa. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Isambarduk Posted May 11, 2013 Share Posted May 11, 2013 "... who has difficulties with GWR tender flares. Now they are more difficult than boilers!!" I agree, Sandy. I have a little sort of hand-held roller and jig that I made to do this but there are loads of ways, I am sure; you just need to discover one of them! David aka DLOS Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted May 12, 2013 Author Share Posted May 12, 2013 "... who has difficulties with GWR tender flares. Now they are more difficult than boilers!!" Hello all, I'm with Sandy on GWR tender flares they are difficult as they are long and need to be constant along the length, when I started to make GWR locos I thought to myself Collett tenders are about the most common types, could I make a jig to do them in. This is what I came up with, it's not elegant but it works. One thing that some people get wrong is that they over bend them to 90 deg. IIRC it should be about 70 - 75 deg. Back onto the 15xx. The body masked off ready for some more primer. You can see why I don't wrap up the Xmas presents. I thought that I'd do it in a nice industrial yellow, every one does them in black. After the filler primer (I hope that it's filled in some of the small holes) had dried I went to apply some grey primer, I didn't have any (must get some net week) so it was on with some white. I've left it to dry for a whole day so it should be nice and hard when I come to work on it (I may still have some filling to do). I may also take off some of the masking tape and replace it with some that's a bit better! OzzyO. EDIT. PS. after a false start (I had made some of the pick-up wires to short and had to replace them) have had about 6 hours running in and will get some more before the body goes on. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted May 12, 2013 Author Share Posted May 12, 2013 Hello all, as you can see I've changed the title back to the County build. A quick up date on some of the parts that you get in the kit. Boiler and brass and white metal castings, The brass etches, The sub-footplate as cut from the main etch, I do like the idea of the flat sub-base for building the footplate on, The first parts removed from the sub-footplate, the spacing washers have been removed as on the etch one of the sides had not been etched through (I think that this is one of the very early ones), the front part of the footplate is removed on the third etched line from the front, if it's folded up as intended the front is to long, I have modified the flat part of the sub-frame by drilling two holes in it. These are for the bolts in my bending bars, you will see this latter. The first folds are to bring the under cab valance to 90 deg. then the two small tabs into the centre, The sub-base set up in my bending bars (I made these a number of years ago), you can now see why I drilled the two holes in what will become the sides of the sub-base, The sub-base completed and soldered up, the cross beams are a very good idea as they keep the sub-base nice and ridged, Looking along the length of the sub-base, The front end of the sub-footplate back in position, to do this I solder the inner buffer beam in place first, the rear part of the sub-footplate is not flat but is at a slight angle up to the front of the smokebox saddle. Make sure that the top of the sub-footplate is flush with the top of the buffer beam and the valances. Don't forget to bend up the lamp irons!!!! I have removed the very front of the sub-base as this help when you come to clean up the base of the buffer beam, The front footplate overlay formed to shape, you can just make out two small tags on the sides, these are to help you with where to start the curve for the up-stands. Don't forget to emboss the rivets on the base of the lamp irons, The front footplate overlay in place, make sure that the top is flush with the top of the sub footplate. The next parts to fit are the frame extensions. The smokebox saddle formed to shape. At the rear you can see that I've fitted a strengthening strip. Depending on the angle of the middle part of the footplate you may have to remove a small amount from the base front of the saddle, it pays to take your time on this to get a good joint between the saddle and the frame extensions as this will be visible on the finished model. The two small holes in the saddle also have to be filled in, The front of the footplate just about finished, with the saddle,buffer beam overlays and buffer bodies in place, I have also fixed the front fixing nut in place, OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted May 12, 2013 Share Posted May 12, 2013 I love reading your builds, somehow they encompass skill, yet you make it look simple...and fun! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fay Posted May 12, 2013 Share Posted May 12, 2013 Oh I can't watch!!! I have brown eyes but they are fast turning Green, I want It!!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted May 12, 2013 Author Share Posted May 12, 2013 Oh I can't watch!!! I have brown eyes but they are fast turning Green, I want It!!! I hope that's GWR Brunswick! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted May 13, 2013 Author Share Posted May 13, 2013 Hello all, Someone asked me about the type of riveter that I use, it';s the one that used to be made by Dick Ganderton "Graskop". It's of the drop hammer type, with four different sizes of punches and dies. IIRC I got it from Slater's in about 1992. The riveter in use. When I'm using it I have it fixed in my bench vice. One of the good things about this type of riveter is that it will hold the metal in place as you lift the hammer(weight). You can also fit a guide to the rear post so that you can do runs of rivets on plain metal sheet. These are some of the small rivets done with the No. 1 anvil and punch using the second ring up for the limit for the weight, the rule is in 1mm increments. These are the bases for the lamp irons on the footplate, The rear drag beam assembled and ready for fixing in place, the small footplate's under the cab sides fix in place, The base and footplate overlays tinned and ready for fixing in place, I have left the tags in place on the outside edge, as I find I have less chance of snagging and bending the overlay if I file them off when in position. I have also fitted two small dressmakers pins (10 X 0.55mm) into the sub-base for the sanding gear, and in place, In the words of an Ozzy painter "can you tell what it is yet?" Yes this is a green boiler, I will be using the blue boiler on this build though, The cab inner cleaned up, I have drilled three holes for some self tapping screws for fixing the boiler in place, two on the horizontal centre line and one on the vertical centre line, Most of the parts for the inside of the cab, excluding the parts for the backhead, The first parts fitted to the drivers side. Before I folded the cab up I cut out some glazing for the front side windows, this will be fixed in place after painting, All the parts fitted to the drivers side before the floor goes in, and yes the seats do tip up and down, The fireman's side, The etched parts for the cab floor, The fall-plate fixed in position, it pays to take your time on this to make sure that it moves freely, The floor and small splashers fixed in place. At the moment the floor is only fixed to the front of the cab, this is to allow for any discrepancy between the cab floor and the sub-base, Sanding levers and cylinder drain tap levers in place. I'm not sure about the position of the drain tap lever as I have two drawing and both show it in different positions. This position works best for me as it will make getting the backhead in and out a bit easer, OzzyO Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted May 13, 2013 Share Posted May 13, 2013 Great stuff OzzyO, Luv it. I have delved into 7mm, only a toe though, i will post on my thread soon. Grasshopper John. PS i just edited my pm. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted May 13, 2013 Share Posted May 13, 2013 That cab is amazing: all that stuff to go in there, and that's BEFORE the backhead and it's details! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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