Jon Fitness Posted March 5, 2013 Share Posted March 5, 2013 Jeez, sorry Ozzyo, all I did was post a smiley... JF Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted March 5, 2013 Author Share Posted March 5, 2013 Hello all, first thanks for all the comments, I have used just about all the ideas for compensation, three point beam, beam with springs (on bogies), one ridged axle and a rocking beam bogie (on tenders) and all axle boxes sprung (on locos the outer axle boxes ride hard against the stops, with the intermediate ones able to go up by approx. 25 thou.). I have not had a go with CSBs. So I thought that the 517 would be a good starting point. Four drivers and two carrying wheels. So I can try out two different methods of CSBs. on this. Simple CSB with one pivot point on the drivers and the type with one fixed pivot and a screw adjuster on the carrying axle. I'm looking at the split axle / frames on this loco for the following reasons. 1], only three spacers to have to sort out. 2], only three axles to sort out, the driven axle will have to be made in three sections, to make sure that the gear box is insulated. 3], no pick-ups to have to wire up. 4], I can prove the concept on the O gauge frame spacers. 5], if I make a complete horicks of it all the parts for the frames are on one etch so it should not cost to much to replace them (I hope). 6], I just fancy having a go it the both of them. I've had a go with split axles for pick-up in the past and it works well, on that test I made some insulated axle boxes, these were for 5/32" axles so I had a bit of room to do this. But on the 517 at least two of the axles will be 3/16" I don't think that I'll have room to do the same, so that is the reason that I'm looking at fully spit frames. I did think about trying to hide the CSBs behind the dummy springs on the frames, but one big problem that I saw was that one was over hung and one was under hung. The under hung one should not be to much of a problem, BUT the over hung spring would be as it is right up against the smokebox. So that was a non starter. Also the CSBs would have been very short at approx.19mm over all length. OzzyO. PS. Adrian, the equalising beam was removed from the Stars and Castles quit early on, in the mid 1930s IIRC. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Western Star Posted March 5, 2013 Share Posted March 5, 2013 Paul, Consider using insulated axleboxes... from either Slaters or the S7 Group Stores. regards, Graham Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted March 6, 2013 Author Share Posted March 6, 2013 Paul, Consider using insulated axleboxes... from either Slaters or the S7 Group Stores. regards, Graham Doing it the way I'm thinking of it will all be solder and bolts and I have most of the bits in stock. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted March 6, 2013 Author Share Posted March 6, 2013 Hello all, back to the Hall build after the discussion on CSBs. When I was looking at some photos of Halls I noticed that a lot of the later ones had a small valve (oil pot?) on the smokebox side. Somehow I'd missed this off, as I didn't have any in my set of castings, I decided to turn one up. The first job was to turn the O/D to approx. 1.3mm. The next was to cross drill a hole of 0.55mm, this was done off the lathe. After doing the above it was time to form a small gap near to what will be the top of the turning, after this had been formed the part was parted off. To give an idea of the size the rule is in 1mm increments. And now in place on the side of the smokebox. Starting on the backhead. The first jobs are, 1] to make sure that the screws that hold the boiler in place don't foul on the back of the backhead. To do this I just use a big bur in the Dremel and take out more than I need. 2], to fit the L angle length of brass that will be used for screwing the backhead down in place. A close up of the L angle brass showing the 12BA nut. I don't want this joint to come apart, that's why all the solder. The first of the castings that will be soldered in place. The fire hole doors, handle and warming shelf in place. I always do these parts first, I don't know why but it just seems right to do it this way. The firebox door flap now in place. Showing my nice tidy? soldering from the inside. All of these parts are soldered in place using 145 deg. solder. With a bit of luck the backhead will be finished before the weekend and the rugby starts. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fay Posted March 6, 2013 Share Posted March 6, 2013 Good stuff mate. I've got a bathroom to tile before the rugby on Saturday so a back head shouldn't be any problem. Like the oil pot. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold farren Posted March 7, 2013 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 7, 2013 Very nice soldering going there I was half expecting that the fire doors to be able to be opened and closed. my be their's something to work on for the next model. Between the rugby matches of course. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted March 9, 2013 Author Share Posted March 9, 2013 Hello all, more work has been done on the backhead, this post will take us up to the end of fitting all the parts. The second lot of castings in place including, the regulator base, jockey steam valve, gauge glass, oil no oil gauge and the speedo. I also have fitted some of the pipes. Steam fountain and a couple more steam pipes. For fitting the steam fountain I use a short length of brass angle at the back. Two of the main steam pipes in place. On the real thing these take live steam to the injectors I think. The third steam pipe in place. I'm not sure why the fireman's side has two steam pipes as he has the exhaust steam injector on his side. In the last photo you could see two blank hole for the brake and blower. I thought that these were a bit to high so I filled them in, I've just re-drilled the one for the vacuum brake, I think that I got this a bit low so I filed the top of the hole. The main train pipe in place along with the exhaust ejector pipes in place. A lot of people make the mistake of having this in copper, but this pipe was steel (iron) and painted black. The blower and its pipe in place. You can see in this photo how the two parts have been move compared to photo 011. The Manson (steam heat) valve in place. The train steam heat pipe in place. The feed pipe for the Manson valve is 0.7mm and the train pipe is in 0.9mm. The only reason for this that I can think of is that the feed will be at boiler pressure and the train pipe at a lower pressure. The drain pipe for the gauge glass is also in place. Up to now I have only used one tip on my iron, this is it a 6mm bit. You may think that this a bit big for doing this type of work but you can get in and out quickly. Thinking about it, this is the size of tip that I use for most of my work. Chain drilling the backhead for the twin pressure gauges. The slot opened out, you can see the twin gauge casting at the left. The unions have been drilled for the pipes. I tend to drill these about 0.5 - 0.6mm although the wire will be about 0.35mm dia. The pressure gauges in place along with the duplex vacuum gauge, for mounting the duplex gauge I make a small L shaped bracket that I mount on the top of the backhead. The same as above after a quick clean up. Starting with the pipework for the gauges. These and all the pipework are made out of tinned copper wire. For the gauges I tend to use 0.37mm wire. Just about all done. One or two soldered joints to tided up and one to make. Then it's a clean and grit-blast. Sorry for such a long post, but I had been asked to do a full build of a backhead. Hello farren, I just don't see the point in making thing like the fire-hole doors able to open and close. As by the time you have stuck your finger in the cab to do this. How much damage could you have done. I did do this on a L&Y pug that I made some years back, but the kit was designed for this. It is left as how it stands open or closed I don't put my finger in the cab to move them. Talking about fire hole doors. I've missed out the fire door flap chain. I make these out of some 0.32mm wire that I twist to make it look like chain. So a bit of work still to do. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
georgeT Posted March 9, 2013 Share Posted March 9, 2013 Hello Ozzyo, My that's some great pipework on that backhead must have taken you age's, great stuff.. George.. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Harvey Posted March 9, 2013 Share Posted March 9, 2013 OzzyO Will the assembled back head be shot blasted and polished or just painted? Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted March 9, 2013 Author Share Posted March 9, 2013 Hello all, George, IIRC it was about 16 hours work so about 2 days. Pete, the backhead will be cleaned then grit blasted, after that ultrasonic cleaned, then it will just be painted satin black. Conrad will then pick out some of the pipework. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted March 9, 2013 Share Posted March 9, 2013 Lovely work, Ozzy. How much of that lot came with the kit, and how much was extra? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold farren Posted March 9, 2013 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 9, 2013 I was just kidding about the fire doors but as you have done this to a loco already that will teach me. I was going to ask the same question about the detail which came with the kit and what is ozzy added. I was just wondering if you where to be let lose to do pipe work in the kitchen what would be the end result. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted March 9, 2013 Author Share Posted March 9, 2013 Hello all, about the only things that I have added are the bits of wire and my time. All of the bits are in the kits. The wife will not let me do any work in the house, as all my time is taken up with working on locos. I wish. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Siberian Snooper Posted March 9, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 9, 2013 Hi Ozzy Those early large diameter pipes from the steam fountain are indeed the injector pipes. SS Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Castle Posted March 9, 2013 Share Posted March 9, 2013 Hi Ozzyo, That backhead is ace - I could drive that!* The whole thing is instantly recognisable and seeing you put it all together is great. I am sure that you know but just for those that don't, the other pipe that gets a different surface treatment is the pipe leading away from the Mason's valve as the steam heat pipe is lagged (originally in asbestos tape but today a ceramic equivalent). These were white post overhaul but soon went black in service. All the best, Castle * Once you mount a regulator handle and a reverser that is... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted March 10, 2013 Author Share Posted March 10, 2013 Hello all, thanks for the nice words about the backhead. Castle, the regulator is fitted in the last two photos. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Castle Posted March 11, 2013 Share Posted March 11, 2013 Castle, the regulator is fitted in the last two photos.And that's what I get for posting while half asleep - it is still a cracking bit of work and I still need a reverser... All the best, Castle Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted March 11, 2013 Author Share Posted March 11, 2013 it is still a cracking bit of work and I still need a reverser... All the best, Castle Hello Castle, the reverser is where it belongs in the cab. I'll post a photo in a day or two showing it. OzzyO. PS. now to try and sort out the air leak in my compressor regulator. It wont be much just a split O seal, but getting at it may be fun. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted March 11, 2013 Share Posted March 11, 2013 Hi Ozzyo, That backhead is ace - I could drive that!* The whole thing is instantly recognisable and seeing you put it all together is great.... There should be a lot of people using the photos for their own reference. I certainly am..... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack P Posted March 11, 2013 Share Posted March 11, 2013 Wow. Ozzy, that backhead is amazing! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted March 23, 2013 Author Share Posted March 23, 2013 Hello all, I've got an advert in the classified section for 10 meters of 145 deg. solder, after I bought 3Kg. of it. This is what 3Kg. looks like. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
11B Posted March 23, 2013 Share Posted March 23, 2013 Hi Paul, That should keep you going for a day or two!!! Kind regards Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack P Posted March 24, 2013 Share Posted March 24, 2013 It's not that much? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted March 24, 2013 Share Posted March 24, 2013 In the April edition of 'Backtrack' there is an interesting article on Peel Pier station. Sandy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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