ozzyo Posted August 17, 2013 Author Share Posted August 17, 2013 Hello all, back on with some of the under frame bits. The starting parts for the brake gear. When I was cleaning up the slots in the pull rods, I did slip with the cutting disk, it's not much of a cut and did not bleed that much (I have gone in deeper, and cut right through the nail bed), but it does make you say Ouch or words to that effect. I think that I put, blood, sweat and tears into all of the locos that I build. Up to now I don't think that any of the blood has come from me using the lathe, mill or drill. Just hand tools, blunt tools may not cut the job, but they will cut "YOU". All of the parts for the tender brake gear laid out (I would have liked brass brakes and hangers), the pins are 1/32" X 1/4" round head rivets. The jig (OK two lengths of wood) that I use to assemble the brake gear. These are drilled at 7' 6" centres. The same as above but with all of the rivets in place. You may have to adjust some of the distances between the holes, to get them just right. When I made the "jigs" all of the distances were taken from one end and that is the end that the square is on. All of the parts now removed from the "jig" after soldering up. The front shafts are soldered up but with some movement, so I can then fit them in place, OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Harvey Posted August 17, 2013 Share Posted August 17, 2013 It's a good job not all of your current projects are as complex. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted August 17, 2013 Share Posted August 17, 2013 It's a good job not all of your current projects are as complex. I did wonder if working brake gear was just around the corner..... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted August 18, 2013 Author Share Posted August 18, 2013 Hello all, I'm back again, with a bit of luck I'll finish the tender (more or less) today. The first job was to sort out the safety chains, to start with I fix the whole length of chain to one of the brake cross beams, then cut the chain so that it will fit on the top fixing. Then all I have to do is cut the next five to the same length, to do this all I do is mount the full length two at a time on the brass rod and hope that I get the cut in the correct place. Then it's fit the split pin (OK a bit of bent wire) in the bottom link. The chains in place in the cross beams. All of the brake gear in place, setting the first brake in place is done by having the wheel in place in the rear axle-box, and then work forwards. The same as above but from the other side. You can see the top mountings for the safety chain on this side better. A view of the chains from the rear, I may have to do a bit of work one the split pin on the left. The same from the front, a bit of cleaning up still to do, but not that much. All of the inner frames from the side showing the mounting for the chip and pick-up wires on the left. The two brackets on the right are for the speaker (I don't know if they will work). The same as above from the rear and front. Just making sure that it all still fits inside the outer frames. The tender from the rear, after a bit of a clean up and all should be OK. You can just make out the steam heat bag end and its chain. The only parts to fit now will be after painting. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted August 19, 2013 Share Posted August 19, 2013 Excellent stuff, yet again. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted August 21, 2013 Author Share Posted August 21, 2013 Hello all, after just about finishing the tender, it's back on to the engine, when you last seen it, this is what it looked like, After removing the wheels motor, gearbox and pick-ups it looked something like this, Getting ready to solder one of the centre or rear springs in to place. With the cast springs you have to make sure that the hangers are square and parallel to each other and that the centre hanger will clear the keeper plate The four rear springs in place, you can see the line that I use to help set the top of the hangers parallel to the base of the frames, Most of the parts that will all be fitted at about the same time as the front springs, this is the approx. positions that they will be in the frames, The way that I tend to fit them is as follows. The vac. cylinder on its pivots (you can see the end of the tube that I use), then one of the brake arm pivots (IIRC I drill these out to 2.5mm), then using a shaft I line up the second one so that it's square across the frames, after that I fit two short lengths of tube into the brackets for the brake arm and set it up central between them and making sure that the brake arm is in line with the cylinder, After that, you have to make sure that the front springs will fit in place. Most of the time you will have to remove a bit from the brackets (you could remove it from the springs), but I tend to remove it from the brackets. You can see that I've started to do it in this photo, After that, it's just a matter of fitting the front springs. A lot of people don't fit the round frame stay as they think it's the brake cross shaft. As you can see in this photo its not. The hole that you can see in the frames is for the front pick-up ( I can see that I may have some fun with that?), The same as above but showing the movement of the brake arm ( no I'm not making working brake gear, Mr. H. Tan. DON'T EVEN THINK ABOUT IT), The frame overlays as they came from the etch sheet, This is the mess that I made of them before I fitted them, One of them fitted in place along with the cast brake hanger pivots, I have counter sunk the holes for the plunger pick-ups so that the collar will fit against the inner N/S frames (doing this just makes the springs a bit softer, with a bit of luck less drag), OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted August 22, 2013 Share Posted August 22, 2013 ..... ( no I'm not making working brake gear, Mr. H. Tan. DON'T EVEN THINK ABOUT IT .... Wha'? Was it something I said? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Harvey Posted August 22, 2013 Share Posted August 22, 2013 OzzyO Don't tease us by posting pictures showing parts in two working positions. You would only need Resin Cast brake blocks to keep the insulation and it could work. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
scot6p Posted August 22, 2013 Share Posted August 22, 2013 ( no I'm not making working brake gear, Mr. H. Tan. DON'T EVEN THINK ABOUT IT), Aww go on Len Cattley Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted August 23, 2013 Author Share Posted August 23, 2013 Hello all, now lets see working brake gear, how to do it? Step one, hollow out the brake cylinder, and fit a steel disk to the brake rod If we put the electro magnet and spring at the bottom it will work as an automatic self acting brake, with the electro magnet keeping the brakes off. Step two, make a small electro magnet to fit in the brake cylinder. Step three, make all of the brake gear so that it moves and some insulated brake blocks. Step four, wire up to your DCC chip. Must go now, them nice men have turned up with my nice coat with the long sleeves as it's time for me to have my exercise in that nice soft room. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
billbedford Posted August 23, 2013 Share Posted August 23, 2013 You should be able to find a suitable coil here Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Siberian Snooper Posted August 23, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted August 23, 2013 Hello all, now lets see working brake gear, how to do it? 200 043.jpg Step one, hollow out the brake cylinder, and fit a steel disk to the brake rod If we put the electro magnet and spring at the bottom it will work as an automatic self acting brake, with the electro magnet keeping the brakes off. Step two, make a small electro magnet to fit in the brake cylinder. Step three, make all of the brake gear so that it moves and some insulated brake blocks. Step four, wire up to your DCC chip. Must go now, them nice men have turned up with my nice coat with the long sleeves as it's time for me to have my exercise in that nice soft room. OzzyO. Were those nice men wearing white coats perchance? SS Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted August 23, 2013 Share Posted August 23, 2013 Were those nice men wearing white coats perchance? SS OzzyO was last heard uttering the word "wibble"... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted August 23, 2013 Share Posted August 23, 2013 Hello Matey, I have a week off this coming week so we can have a catch up on the land line . Regarding working parts, their is a chap over at WT who was successful with a working reverser arm linkage, operated by DCC but using a small servo I think. ATB, Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted August 23, 2013 Share Posted August 23, 2013 Seen that using a Portescap motor on a Finney A4 in MRJ years ago. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnBS Posted August 23, 2013 Share Posted August 23, 2013 Seen that using a Portescap motor on a Finney A4 in MRJ years ago.Tim Watson of Copenhagen Fields fame, I believe (also does big stuff).John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted August 23, 2013 Author Share Posted August 23, 2013 You can hide a lot inside of an A4 body! Try and do the same with a small loco that has the boiler high above the running plate. I'm writing this with a sick between my teeth as I still have my coat with the long sleeves on, but the nice men in the white coats have let me have a look at a keyboard. I'm still getting fed with pancakes as that is the only thing that will fit under the door. The mad OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
11B Posted August 23, 2013 Share Posted August 23, 2013 Are you getting the warm beer through a straw? Or should we be thinking of food beer parcels.... But then again they may not make it to you, or could even interfere with the medication Kind regards Ian I'm still getting fed with pancakes as that is the only thing that will fit under the door. The mad OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scale7JB Posted August 24, 2013 Share Posted August 24, 2013 Regarding working parts, their is a chap over at WT who was successful with a working reverser arm linkage, operated by DCC but using a small servo I think. ATB, Martyn. Were my ears burning? JB. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted August 24, 2013 Share Posted August 24, 2013 Were my ears burning? JB. Oh yes they were JB, all in the interest of advancement in this great hobby of ours of course! Any chance of any explanatory piccies please. Sorry for the hijack Oz, you know how these topics have a habit of wandering. ATB, Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted August 26, 2013 Author Share Posted August 26, 2013 Hello all, not a problem Martyn. Back on to the build, the wheels after blackening with Birchwood Casey super blue, the brass centres can sometimes be fun to get the blackening to take. But a good rub with a brass wire brush in the Dremel normally does the trick, after this they will be panted black, I treated myself to a new nail file for cleaning up the narrow slots (Boots £1.80) Most of the parts for the brake gear laid out, The first side of the brakes in place along with the exhaust steam pipe, I've had to cut the pipe behind the rear spring to clear the gear wheel, and from the side, The front of the exhaust steam pipe, The second side in place along with the brake pull beams, When I was using the slitting disc I did it again!!! different finger this time, The front brake adjusters in place. You can also see that I've ground a bit out of the vac. cylinder to clear the front pick-ups, The same as above showing most of the cross beams and the safety chains, All of the brake gear in place from both sides and front and rear, The next jobs on the frames will be the cylinders and sand box's. I'm hoping to have this finished for Telford! so I'd better extract the digit. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Harvey Posted August 26, 2013 Share Posted August 26, 2013 11 Days to go. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted August 26, 2013 Share Posted August 26, 2013 Whereabouts will you be at Telford, Ozzy? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted August 26, 2013 Author Share Posted August 26, 2013 Whereabouts will you be at Telford, Ozzy? Most people will know where I'll be after about 1;30pm!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fay Posted August 26, 2013 Share Posted August 26, 2013 Should be in weather spoons in the morning mate. Michelle wants to get a parking space close to the exhibition because of the amount of stuff she's bringing for customers so were aiming to get there around 9ish. I'm looking forward to seeing this county finished and have a good look over it at Telford. Jeff he means the bar!!! Il be in for 1 or 3 pints but not like last time. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.