Jack P Posted May 13, 2013 Share Posted May 13, 2013 inspirational Ozzyo. How do you make the fall plate hinged - it looks just like two small rings? Also why is it so important that is it free-moving? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted May 13, 2013 Author Share Posted May 13, 2013 Hello Jack all, the fall plate is hinged by using two n shaped bit of wire as in this photo, It needs to be free moving to keep it in contact with the tender footplate, it has to be free moving as the only thing that keeps it in contact is gravity. If it was fixed it would have to be fixed above the hight of the tender footplate by a mm or so and that just looks so wrong. As we have two moving objects that are independent of each other both can be moving in different directions ie. one going up one going down. Think about when you walk through a corridor connection on a train both coaches are moving often in slightly different directions. HTH OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted May 15, 2013 Author Share Posted May 15, 2013 Hello all, back onto the cab detailing, the water valve and damper levers in place. The one under the fireman's seat is for the slacking pipe, The inside of the cab up to now, I'm not sure if there should be two four way oil pots fitted one on the drivers side and one on the cab front sheet on the fireman's side. I have also altered the fixing holes for the boiler, The casting before and after fitting, The cab former fixed in place, it pays to make sure that you get this square and vertical as this will affect the look of the finished cab. The cab front along side, The cab front bolted in place ready to be soldered, I just tin the back of the cab front for this job using quit a lot of solder, remember to emboss the rivets around the fire-iron tunnel opening before fixing in place and make sure that the edges are flush with the sides, Getting ready to form the top flange on the cab side in my hold and fold, The cab sides with one of the flanges formed to shape, before doing this I make sure that the sides will fit the curved part of the running plate that is at the base of the cab and the small extension of the main running plate, Both the flanges formed to shape, on the left you will see that I have made two small cut-outs, these are for the cab roof formers to fit in (you will see these later), You also need to make a very small cut-out for the beading to fit in at the rear of the flange above the cab opening (not shown), The castings for the front cab window beading fixed in place. Make sure that it's flush with the back of the etch as this will affect the fit of the glazing, For the cab beading I made this jig (former) it works for most G.W.R. cabs, but on this one it left the middle handrail support too long! Not by much only about 0.7mm but it would affect the look of where the handrail would go, but the hight was still OK. If you want to make one of these all you have to do is measure the cab opening and deduct the thickness of the beading (typically 0.018" [0.5mm]) then form the radius's 0.5mm smaller. If you want to fit the pin IIRC it's the distance from the front of the cab opening to the centre of the vertical handrail minus 0.009" (0.25mm), The cab-side overlay fixed in place, I tend to fix the beading in place after the overlay is in place, but you could do it before if you like, For soldering the joint between the bottom of the cab side sheet and the small footplate, this is what I use. A small bit (2.5mm ?) bent to 90 deg. so that I can get in, The etches for the cab roof, This is one thing that I wish a lot more kits would supply, a jig for making the cab roof on. It's a lot easer to do the fitting on this than having to hold a full locos footplate trying to make sure that the roof fits, The rivet strip for the rear roof support fixed in place, in the last photo you could just make out the small raised lugs that the rivet strip fits on, Forming the curve of the roof in my roiling bars. Some people get this wrong on G.W.R. cab roofs, in that they make the top centre section flat, it's not, it has the same curve as the two side sections, The next job will be forming the two shaper curves in the roof and fitting it to the jig. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted May 15, 2013 Share Posted May 15, 2013 Nice work OzzyO, as always. Grasshopper J. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted May 15, 2013 Share Posted May 15, 2013 I'm looking forward to the backhead. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack P Posted May 16, 2013 Share Posted May 16, 2013 Thank you for explaining ozzy, I'd had a feeling what's what it was for ( no stupid questions..? ) You sure do build fast! Jack Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted May 18, 2013 Author Share Posted May 18, 2013 Hello all, not that much to report today due to homework getting in the way. The cab roof in place, it pays to talk your time on this as this is one of the most noticeable parts of the model. The rain strip fixed to the rear of the cab roof, this will be reduced in hight latter, The parts for the roof vents, if you wanted you could make these open and close, I don't bother to do this, The vents in place, on the left I have started to reduce the hight of the rain strip, when this is finished it will be 0.5mm in hight, From the rear, you can see the finished hight of the rain strip on the right. You can also see that I've used some Scale Hardware rivets for the opening handles for the cab roof vents, I'm going to have a bit of a break from the loco today as I'm going to have a go at making a crossing vee for my test track. This is going to be a bit different as one side is going to be OF and the other side S7. If I have the time I'll also try and get some of the track laid as well. I have put up a question about this in question, hints and tips. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted May 18, 2013 Author Share Posted May 18, 2013 Hello all, I did put up a question about point Vee's but up to now I've had no replies to it, so I thought I'd just carry on in my own way, if it's wrong so be it. I did think that the vee would be about 1:4 or 5, it turned out to be approx 1: 11.5. The following is how I made the Vee. The two running rails made up in to the start of the vee, note how one of the rails runs to the point of the vee, I'm also using some old rail, in this photo you can see the muck on the top of the rail and on the side, The vee soldered to some copper clad and showing the wing rails at both sides, the noses of the vee has been rounded off, The first of the wing rails soldered in place. it's only tacked in place at the moment, The second wing rail now in place, you can see the difference between the S7 and the OF clearances (S7 to the right), After chopping the copper clad back a bit, Then it was cutting the rails back a bit, The end of the days work, the vee in place in the test track, you can also see the first of the S7 rails in place. OzzyO. EDIT, it's over twenty years since I last built any track-work so this may be a bit on the sh!t rubbish side. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted May 19, 2013 Share Posted May 19, 2013 Right, I get it now! I couldn't get my head around what you were trying to do at first and was blinkered by thinking about a 'point' in the common use of the term but I now see what you are trying to achieve. In effect two separate running tracks 0F and S7 in the same space'ish with a crossing to check clearances. Quick, put a patent on it!!!! Sandy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted May 20, 2013 Author Share Posted May 20, 2013 Hello all, Sandy you should know me by now and that I'll come up with something different! Well its time to start laying the second rail, so I'll need some track gauges. I had a look on some web sites £13.00 for a pair plus P&P. No way. So out came the brass bar and the lathe. The first job was to grind the parting tool to 0.062" the width of the rail head, the first cut for the running rail, The second cut for the check rail, All four cuts and the middle reduced, The two track gauges, these were produced in less than an hour, Starting on the check rails, In place on the running rails, S7 at the top, After the excess copper clad has been removed, The first of the S7 track in place, it's not pretty but it works, This part of the test track has two humps of 1mm built in to it, OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Isambarduk Posted May 20, 2013 Share Posted May 20, 2013 "£13.00 for a pair plus P&P. No way." My thoughts exactly! Apart from the pure pleasure and satisfaction of making things (particularly with machine tools), I have must have saved more than the cost of my tools over the years and I always finish up with precisely what I wanted, rather than the nearest available or some other compromise. Do think about this if you're dithering about taking the plunge :-) Thanks for showing us this, OzzyO. David aka DLOS Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miss Prism Posted May 20, 2013 Share Posted May 20, 2013 Suggest decrease the length of the parallel section of the check rail, and increase the length of the flared section, giving the latter a shallower angle. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted May 20, 2013 Author Share Posted May 20, 2013 Suggest decrease the length of the parallel section of the check rail, and increase the length of the flared section, giving the latter a shallower angle. Too late Miss P. all in place, but I have checked it with a short wheel base 0-4-0T loco (Ivor) and a six wheeled brake van and all run through OK. I did not notice the sideways lurch that you can get with Peco points. The other thing that I've noticed is that I'm not getting the wheel drop as it goes over the crossing vee. All of the above is on the OF. I'll have to get a set of S7 wheels and frames set up so that I can test the S7 side of the test track. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted May 20, 2013 Share Posted May 20, 2013 .... out came the brass bar and the lathe...... Never underestimate the power of the lathe.....! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted May 20, 2013 Author Share Posted May 20, 2013 Never underestimate the power of the lathe.....! I think it's 1/3 H.P. Oh that's not what you meant! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted May 20, 2013 Share Posted May 20, 2013 Never underestimate the power of the lathe.....! Never underestimate the price of the lathe.....! Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Isambarduk Posted May 20, 2013 Share Posted May 20, 2013 "Never underestimate the price of the lathe.....!" No, but IMHO they are far better value for money (and certainly more engineering for your money) than many 7mm loco kits. With a loco kit you can make just one 7mm loco, with a lathe you can make as many 7mm almost-anythings as you like. David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted May 23, 2013 Author Share Posted May 23, 2013 Hello all, the new extension to the test track is just about finished, all I've to do is add a stop block at one end and test the S7 part under power. Two views looking along the S7 track work. I think that you can make out the humps and bumps better in these two photos. I will not win any cups for the looks of this track work, but all it has to be is functional, Checking the crossing vee under power, I'm using the 15xx for this, short wheelbase and a rigid set of frames, the next job on the test track will be to make an auto unit for throwing the double slip so that the track will run like this T1 (start) - T2 - T3 - T4 - T1 (start) and so on. At the moment I have to do it manually so I tend to run the sequence for about an hour per T1 - T2 etc. The test track before I started on the S7 track, OzzyO. PS. anyone going to Cleckheaton next Sat (1/6/13) I should get to Dewsbury about 08;40 then a bus to Cleckheaton for breakfast in the Obediah Brooke, Dewsbury station sound good for on the way back home as well. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted May 23, 2013 Share Posted May 23, 2013 Only you and maybe a few others would do that OzzyO, if I had a hat I would dip it As you said Looks aint everything, It works doesn't it. Lovely stuff. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted May 24, 2013 Author Share Posted May 24, 2013 Hello all, back onto the County build. The cab in place on the main footplate, on the front of the cab I've fitted two lengths of N/S across the fixing holes for the boiler. I have done this as when you tighten the screws up it can pull the cab front into the boiler as you have an etch around the outer edge of the firebox that represents the angle iron that is fitted. The drivers side splasher test fitted in place, The parts for the fireman's side splasher, I have not shown the small part that fits on the top of the fire iron tunnel, On this etch there is a small problem, in that the tabs that hold the top of the splasher to the main etch have been located on the wrong side, The first part removed, this was done on an angle to help remove some of the full etch, The place where the tag had been, this was removed by using some small diamond files that I have, The side of the fireman's splasher in place along with the inside of the fire iron tunnel. The drivers side splasher fixed in place. I have also removed the parts from between the footplate, Test fitting the top of the fireman's splasher. You can also see the difference in width between the two splashers, all I can think that this was for is so that the fireman's one did not have a big step in it where the fire iron tunnel is located, OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted May 25, 2013 Author Share Posted May 25, 2013 Hello all, just a quick update on the County, fitting the sanding gear operating levers, the first job is the one that fits across the running plate, The next part is the first part of the operating that runs to the cab, this has to be formed to shape and twisted through 90 deg. looks like I'll have to do something about the top lever, The next part can affect some builds. It's the nameplates backing pieces, it looks like they have been etched for some of the longer nameplates and may have to be cut back for some of the shorter plates. The up-stand on the drivers side I'm not sure if this was the same length on all plates so I'm going to have to look into this. Depending on the make of plates that your going to use the drivers side backing plate may have to be fitted with the half etch detail to the rear, I'm thinking about starting some work on Princess Anne today, if I do it will be on the tender frames. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted June 3, 2013 Author Share Posted June 3, 2013 Hello all, I'm delivering the 15xx at the weekend so I thought I'd better start throwing some paint on it. If it's going to go wrong this is the loco for it to happen on. And it did, look at this. I've used all these paint before and never had this happen, The odd thing is that its only on the base of the body, but I can't risk applying any more paint at the moment. so some of it will have to come off. Ho Hum, OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Castle Posted June 3, 2013 Share Posted June 3, 2013 Hi Ozzyo, That is uncanny - I had a similar reaction on one (and JUST one!) end of the super saloon I am building at the moment too - Acid 8 Etch Primer from UPOL, Phoenix blood and custard and then Halfords very own Matt Black all with plenty of drying time in between. Never had the reaction before and I have painted a number of vehicles with various and indeed exactly the same combinations of the paints described. Any thoughts on this one out there? All the best, Castle P.S. Your County build is at about the same stage that the 'real' thing at Didcot is at. If you build your bogie and have a set of driving wheels painted black in a tent further down the workbench it is about the same! I think you may finish first though... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted June 3, 2013 Share Posted June 3, 2013 I'd say that cracking paint effect is exactly what you want if you're portraying an engine in service, albeit mostly seen around smokeboxes and smokebox doors.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted June 3, 2013 Share Posted June 3, 2013 It is not a reaction with something in the resin? It looks like a problem i had on a wooden body where the cleaner impregnated the wood. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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