Eastwood Town - A tribute to Gordon's modelling.

[Re6/6]

Thoughts are with you Gordon.

[Ramblin Rich]

Sorry to read your news Gordon. I lost both parents within 8 weeks this autumn and Christmas felt very strange without any contact with them. 2016 has really turned out to be a terrible year for a multitude of reasons, I do hope the new year will be better for all of us.

[43078shildoncountydurham]

Gordon

 

Thinking of you and your family at this sad time.

 

Take care

 

Craig

[gordon s]

Thanks again for all your best wishes.  The last week or so have been busy, bordering on chaotic from time to time as I've been trying to deal with various issues.  We were in the middle of selling my mother's flat when she passed away, so that's now on hold whilst I sort out probate on her estate.  I suspect most of you have had to deal with the legal paperwork this entails, so you'll know just how time consuming this is.  Even with the bulk of the work handed over to our solicitor, you still have to answer all the questions contained in a 24 page document.  Of course few if any are straightforward, so a fair bit of research is required to add a few words to the right box on the form.  We'll get there.....

 

On the railway front, ET has provided a welcome escape from all the serious stuff, so my thoughts turned to my first love in this wide hobby of ours.  Having dabbled in proper chaired track and been pleased with the overall result, I have made a decision to stay with soldered construction.  This may not make sense when you consider the appearance advantage, but I can make PCB track in my sleep and the fact that it matches exactly to SMP flexi when using 1.06mm copper overcomes my other failing which is ballasting.

 

I'm also surprised just how heavy handed I am, which once added to deteriorating eyesight and fingers that are too large and inflexible to handle small parts, also contributed to my decision.  I'm gutted to lose the appearance benefit, but everything is a compromise in this game and of course few of my audience of family and friends would know what a chair looked like if it jumped up and bit them....

 

The only downside of PCB construction is now the cost of copper strip.  When I started building track a few years back a pack of C & L pcb strip was around £6.  Before Christmas it was £15.95 and I was shocked to hear it was £18.95 per pack when I ordered some this morning.  With each C10 turnout requiring 1.4m of pcb that means just three turnouts per pack of sleeper strip.  With all the other bits and bobs the cost is going up considerably.  Of course my labour is free, so still a lot cheaper than the alternatives, but any price increase these days makes you consider the whole cost issue. 

 

Isn't is funny how you've done something for years and then you have a light bulb moment which is often obvious to everyone else, but you have missed the blindingly simple solution.  I've always cut sleepers by hand with Xuron track cutters and it was time consuming measuring out each sleeper.  I've been a fan of Proxxon tools for years and sitting on my bench is a small table saw. Some time ago I drew up a template for Phil H of this parish to help out with the production of station valance boards.  Opening up Excel and fiddling with column widths meant I could lay out a template for cutting sleepers to the right length and it works so well, I'll never hand cut sleepers again.

 

 

Next improvement was sticking down the sleepers with narrower double sided tape and then creating the copper gap before adding the rails.  Doing it before adding the rails means I can hold my slitting disk at a very shallow angle and literally scrape away the copper rather than cutting into the sleeper.  I was also able to move the gap right up to the rail in many cases which once again hides the gapping cut.

 

So a pleasurable morning with six turnout bases ready for rails.  They've all been checked electrically and the insulation is sound so one less job to do, once the rails are soldered in position.

 

 

In between all the goings on of the last week I cut some cork strip to an accurate width set be the position of the platform wall and the 44.67mm track centres.  This is a new one for me as I've always used 50mm in the past, but feel confident I will get away with it in most places as radii are large with transitions to tighter curves.  I have widened it out to 50mm where needed, but otherwise all is at 44.67mm centres.  The Proxxon came into it's own again slitting cork rolls down to an exact dimension from it's set width. Just set the side rail and pull it through.  A nice clean cut and very easy to do.

 

 

Next on the cards is to finish off a whole stack of turnouts from earlier ET's that need painting and final electrical test before going off to their new owners.  That will be the last bulk shipment of my own built track with just a few odds and sods to shift now.  I'm left with some earlier pointwork not made by me and around 15 Tillig turnouts I bought for the original ET.  These had the plastic check rails changed for metal rail and I played around with PCB tie bars as the originals appeared a bit flimsy.  Once checked over they will be perfectly usable, but I'd rather get on with new stuff right now.

 

In a strange way losing my mother has given me a kick up the backside to get going again.  This hobby is so enjoyable when your head is in the right place, but it can be quite depressing seeing a work in progress with no enthusiasm or motivation to continue.

 

Thanks again for your support, particularly over the past few weeks.  It has certainly given me a much needed lift.....

Edited January 13, 2017 by gordon s

[cb900f]

Gordon,

I would imagine that you have to be careful as to not inhale the dust from the saw ?

 

Peter

[Ian_H]

Hi Gordon,

 

It is good to see you keeping busy and using the track building as a distraction at what is a horrible time, no matter how much we prepare ourselves it takes time to come to terms with it.

 

On a different note, the cost of PCB sleepers and the preparation time, would it be worthwhile to look at the product from DCC Concepts? https://www.dccconcepts.com/product/pre-etched-sleepers-1-0mm-4mm-scale-b9-to-a5-points/

 

I understand that the sleepers are available in two thicknesses 1.0 & 1.6mm, they also come with tie bars.

 

I don't know if they are any good, I'm an armchair modeller, who so far has only modelled in his imagination but this does give me an opportunity to ask a question. You mention cutting the cork strip, when you cut the cork will it then bend to the shape of the track route or do you have to cut it to shape of the route?

 

best regards

[gordon s]

I generally use a face mask when spraying or using a slitting disc.  I can't say hand on heart it's 100%, but I try to....

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3M-Maintenance-Free-Respirator-4251-Dust-Mask-NEW-/360151669288

[coachmann]

Gordon, May I inquire which model the Proxxon table saw is. I came across a dozen that all look alike to me on the 'net.

 

Larry

[gordon s]

Sorry Ian, posts crossed.  I have looked at the DCC product and it appears ideal and now the cost of copper strip has gone up to it's current level, then it's a good alternative.  I tend to standardise on C10's wherever possible and B7's in a yard or shed.  Richard doesn't offer a C10 sleeper pack, so it's not an option for me.  It could be an option for the B7's.

 

The cork strip comes from Charles Cantrill and flexes around corners without a problem.  The section in ET station comes from 32mm strip and is made up from three strips.  I tend to set the 'join' on the strips to line up with the one of the rails, so that makes it easy to lay track on the cork strip.  Single track uses a 16.5mm strip plus two chamfered edging strips.  Double track is set on 44.67mm track centres, so thats approximately 44.67mm - 16.5mm between the two inner rails.  Cutting a strip 28mm wide gives me a guide line for the two inner rails of a double track pair.  The two outer strips are then cut to either add an edging strip or of a width to butt up against a platform wall.

 

For pointwork, I generate a Templot print and then cut to shape using the outer rails as a cutting line.  I stick the print onto a 3mm cork tile and then cut to shape.  Once you add the chamfered edging strip to this shape it aligns perfectly with the strip cork.

[gordon s]

Gordon, May I inquire which model the Proxxon table saw is. I came across a dozen that all look alike to me on the 'net.

 

Larry

 

Hi Larry, hope you are well and dry in North Wales.

 

It's a KS230 and the best £100 I've spent.  Ideal for most small section plastic or wood and cuts cork down a treat.  Had a quick search and there's one here for £92.99.  No good for 4"x 2" but pretty useful for all modelling bits and bobs.  It's pretty simple, so don't expect tenth of a mm accuracy, but does the job really well.

 

http://www.hobbytools-direct.com/acatalog/Bench_Circular_Saw_KS230.html

[PhilH]

'so thats approximately 44.67mm'

 

​Not good enough Gordon....

 

Good to see you enthused again.

[coachmann]

Hi Larry, hope you are well and dry in North Wales.

 

It's a KS230 and the best £100 I've spent.  Ideal for most small section plastic or wood and cuts cork down a treat.  Had a quick search and there's one here for £92.99.  No good for 4"x 2" but pretty useful for all modelling bits and bobs.  It's pretty simple, so don't expect tenth of a mm accuracy, but does the job really well.

 

http://www.hobbytools-direct.com/acatalog/Bench_Circular_Saw_KS230.html

Thanks very much for that and the useful link. Yes, I'm fine thanks. I realise you are going through a difficult time at the moment.

 

If I may just ask....Do you consider the saw will cut extruded aluminium roofs? 

Edited January 13, 2017 by coachmann

[gordon s]

Thanks very much for that and the useful link. Yes, I'm fine thanks. I realise you are going through a difficult time at the moment.

 

If I may just ask....Do you consider the saw will cut extruded aluminium roofs? 

 

 

Quite probably.  Here's a selection of their blades.  Just checked and the one for aluminium is 28 020 and costs €9.50 from Germany and £11.80 via Amazon, so a reasonable cost.  Just checked and I think that's the one I'm using.  Cuts PCB strip clean as a whistle....

 

Edited January 13, 2017 by gordon s

[Delapidated]

That's my next purchase, Modelling in HO and using Shinohara (that well known Irish manufacturer) with sleepers of 2.7mm width I'm going to need to cut my own. Double sided copper-clad sheet is pretty reasonable from RS, and I'm sure Maplin will be better - RS have a reputation to uphold. If the 44.67mm is approximate it will do for the Durtie & De La Paid et Tete, who's directors would be happy with a bit of tree.

 

Good to see you back Gordon.

 

P.S. that photo of the pond is missing an 'O' Gauge Ribblehead viaduct with a pacific and eight charging over it.

[gordon s]

Following the latest C & L price increase, I did buy 10 packs of 4mm x 1.06mm pcb strip to get me started again, but have looked around for an alternative source, even if just to confirm the C & L price represents the market price.

 

I have found these guys.

 

https://www.crownhill.co.uk/category-54.html

 

4mm x 435mm strip from C & L is 1740sq mm.  A pack of 10 strips is 17,400 sq mm for £18.95.

 

A pcb from Crownhill is 305mm x 229mm = 69,845 sq mm, so something like 4 times the area for £3.10 plus 20% VAT = £3.72 about a 1/5th of the cost.

 

The unknown for me is cutting the pcb card into 4mm strips.  The length would be shorter at 305mm v 435mm so possibly some more wastage.

 

I'm fairly sure my Proxxon will do the job, but would prefer to try out a sample first.  Sadly they cannot supply a scrap piece for me to try.

 

Even allowing their P & P cost of £8.50, there could be quite a cost saving to be had, but you have to cut the strips yourself.  Not out of the question providing you can get a quality cut with clean edges and a constant width of 4mm.

 

I suspect I'll bite the bullet and give it a go.

[chris p bacon]

I suspect I'll bite the bullet and give it a go.

So would I at that price.

[sp1]

Count me in!

 

Edit: unless my mind is playing tricks I'm sure I read somewhere that C&L have their strips routed, whereas the other supplier (SMP) guillotine theirs , hence the odd widths/ angles you sometimes get from them. If you have found a way to cut them consistently then the saw would pay for itself in no time...,.

Edited January 18, 2017 by sp1

[martin_wynne]

Hi Gordon,

 

 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/142243386010?lpid=122&chn=ps&adgroupid=33676502101&rlsatarget=pla-271883345955&adtype=pla&poi=&googleloc=9045449&device=c&campaignid=707291931&crdt=0

 

 

 

Martin.

[Delapidated]

RS do sell a guillotine, a choice of 2, but they're above £300, they're the type with a really heavy curved blade with a big handle on, no the roller wheel type cutter - just make sure you come back with as many fingers as you start. If you have access to one, e.g. ex school art department, then you're quids in, no wastage and no dust and razor sharp clean cut, just watch the edges, they'll be short too. The ridged edge a circular saw might give could remove the smooth edge, a bit more realistic.

[MikeTrice]

I'm fairly sure my Proxxon will do the job, but would prefer to try out a sample first. 

Would a single sheet of PCB from Maplins be a suitable experiment?

[gordon s]

Just checked out the Maplin pcb, Mike. I have now seen from the questions it is 1.6mm thick so not suitable for me. The extra thickness may prove a problem with my saw whereas the 1.06mm material might be OK. I appreciate the overall cost is lower, but I'd rather have the correct material to start. I'll save £4.89 on the board which will go some way to towards the £8.50 postage. If it's OK, I can order 10 sheets at £2.79 a sheet, so that really looks attractive.

 

I've ordered a sheet from Crownhill to try.

Edited January 18, 2017 by gordon s

[eldavo]

You may need to factor in the cost of a few saw blades big G. Looks like that board is fibreglass based so may be pretty abrasive. Interesting to see how the experiment goes.

 

Cheers

Dave

[MikeTrice]

Might need a diamond blade.

[hayfield]

Gordon

 

Cutting is the way to go rather than using a guillotine which does not give a square finish. Also do you need double sided ? I have used single sided timbers which may be preferable if using droppers through them

 

Cutting your own strips (cork, plasticard, wood etc) is far cheaper than buying them ready cut, but needs investment in time and money. You have the machinery so that's a tick, also the time when cold/rain/fog stop play, the only real cost is new cutting discs as glass fibre is very abrasive.

 

There are other PCB timber/sleeper suppliers, I have had good quality items from Wizzard, what about Marcway ? though they may be cut with a guillotine 

[mullie]

I have found cheap SMP point kits on Ebay from time to time but then I don't need the quantity. I simply use the bits in the bag.