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Eastwood Town - A tribute to Gordon's modelling.

gordon s

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gordon s

gordon s

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Managed to cut some 2mm strips with mixed/some success. The clearance around the blade is around 2mm, so once I cut the first strip the end of the strip caught the blade and disappeared down the hole, winding itself around the blade.

 

Lesson learned, hold the cut end of the sheet/strip as it nears the end of the cut.

 

Here's a pic of the strip. It did cut a 2mm width, but there is a slight increase in the burring.  This could be the edge going off the blade or more likely vertical movement of the strip whilst cutting.  After cutting a few I could get a reasonable result.  A 2mm strip with acceptable edges, but it does need to be done with care.  Of course the cost saving means you could absorb some wastage, but I wouldn't like to do 100's....

 

post-6950-0-82779900-1485248367_thumb.jpg

 

I use this saw for all my work so logging the number of pcb cuts doesn't really represent an accurate figure.  I didn't start with a brand new blade this time round, so maybe that's something worth looking at when I replace the blade.

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chris p bacon

chris p bacon

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Managed to cut some 2mm strips with mixed/some success. The clearance around the blade is around 2mm, so once I cut the first strip the end of the strip caught the blade and disappeared down the hole, winding itself around the blade.

 

Lesson learned, hold the cut end of the sheet/strip as it nears the end of the cut.

This is why I suggested a sacrificial bed, get a piece of MDF/Ply and run it into the saw at the required width then cut the PCB over the top of it, it means there isn't the gap at the side of the blade, I'd also reduce the height of the blade so that there is less chance of it picking up the cut piece as it passes by.

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gordon s

gordon s

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Thanks Chris.  The height of the blade is fixed, so that's not an option.

 

I'm not sure I understand your solution with ply/mdf.  Perhaps you could do a quick sketch of your solution.

 

Cutting a piece 2mm wide would be difficult, but I'm assuming you have the ply/mdf both sides of the blade to give a flat level surface.  It is food for thought though as I could cut a slot in a piece of ply/mdf so that it sits either side of the blade and that would lift the pcb further up the blade. Cutting the slot would be easy, but you still need a piece of ply/mdf 2mm wide which ever way you look at it.  Try to cut that width without it breaking away would be difficult.

 

The other alternative is just to stick a piece of Duct tape over the slot.  

 

Cutting carefully wasn't a problem though.  Just take it slow.

 

Here's a pic of the saw/guide rail set at 2mm, so you can see the potential problem.

 

post-6950-0-26138400-1485263000_thumb.jpg

 

post-6950-0-36510300-1485263011_thumb.jpg

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chris p bacon

chris p bacon

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I just looked for a piccie but couldn't find one.

 

Essentially you take a piece of board say 400 square and about 6mm thick and run it halfway into the saw then back it out a few mm's, clamp that to the saw bed then when you rip the PCB there isn't a gap at the side of the blade.

 

Does that make sense?

 

if not I'll pop in the workshop and do an example 

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gordon s

gordon s

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No problem.  By jove, I think he's got it......

 

I still think if you're cutting a 2mm strip though, one side of the slot is going to be less than 2mm wide to allow clearance between the guide rail and the blade.  Surely some tape would do the same job and being thin will go under the guide rail.

 

Of course it's all academic as cutting the 2mm strip was for Mike's benefit.... :D

 

Having cut around 20 strips, I feel the blade is starting to go off, so it may not be an option in large volume anyway.  More to follow....

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martin_wynne

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Having cut around 20 strips, I feel the blade is starting to go off, so it may not be an option in large volume anyway.

 

Hi Gordon,

 

As I posted earlier, cutting epoxy/glass sheet with an HSS slitting saw means frequent re-sharpening. Not an easy job on that saw blade in your photo with such a fine tooth pitch.

 

Do you strictly need double-sided epoxy/glass? In the olden days we used single-sided SRBP and hundreds of layouts have been built using it. Still available and much less expensive, although only in traditional 1/32" and 1/16" thicknesses (0.8mm, 1.6mm). Sizes here up to about 12" x 8":

 

 https://www.rapidonline.com/low-cost-copper-clad-srbp-circuit-board-32634

 

edit: p.s. also available in 3/64" (1.2mm) from Marcway/SMP to match Scaleway, and in cut strips in various widths.

 

Martin.

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Ian_H

Ian_H

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I have looked at the DCC product and it appears ideal and now the cost of copper strip has gone up to it's current level, then it's a good alternative.  I tend to standardise on C10's wherever possible and B7's in a yard or shed.  Richard doesn't offer a C10 sleeper pack, so it's not an option for me.  It could be an option for the B7's.

 

 Hi Gordon,

 

I hope don't mind me coming back to the idea of DCC Concepts Etched Sleepers, as you say the Richard doesn't offer C10, the max on offer is B9. I'm not sure that I fully understand the difference between  a 'B' and a 'C' switch or perhaps I do, is it just the length of the switch and consequently the length of the turnout would be somewhat longer? From Templot http://www.templot.com/martweb/gs_realtrack.htm a 'B' switch is 12' and the 'C' switch 15' so a 'C' switch in this instance would require two more sleepers or is it not that simple? I imagine that I'm missing something? :no:

 

Ian

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hayfield

hayfield

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Martin

 

Given that the blades blunt quite quickly and the best price I see is just under a £10 inc postage (may be the wrong one and eBay price), how many strips can you cut using a blade? and how does the total costs compare against buying from Marcway or C&L

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chris p bacon

chris p bacon

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Good to see your back at it Gordon after everything you've been through recently

 

You'll be happy to know the curved double jct I got off you has been put to good useattachicon.gifIMG_9677.JPG

It runs lovely

 

Look forward to your progress

 

Brian

The trouble with laying that junction is that you'll be taking it up in a month and building a completely new layout.........Oh hang on....wrong owner.... :mosking:

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Andrew P

Andrew P

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Your not alone, I've aged 3 years and still waiting.

 

And built 11 layouts!

Actually I've just had a look, and I've been a member since May 2010, so almost 7 years Gordon.

 

And probably scrapped 11 as well as built 11 Ian, hahaha

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gordon s

gordon s

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Good job I'm thick skinned..... :)

 

Seeing you're all so bloomin' clever, what would happen here?

 

I'm talking about ballasting, by the way.  This is the approach to ET station comprising of pairs/single lines with associated pointwork.  

 

Would this be a single flat section, with ballasting right across all the running lines effectively making one complete flat area or would each pair or single line be ballasted separately so having raised ballasted sections with the edges chamfered?

 

Despite rumours to the contrary I have been building pointwork for the last few days and now have around 15 towards the new layout (or my pension should I give up modelling and sell them).... :onthequiet:

 

post-6950-0-60000100-1485513428_thumb.jpg

 

 

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gordon s

gordon s

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Actually I've just had a look, and I've been a member since May 2010, so almost 7 years Gordon.

 

 

 

 

That's six months after I started this thread..... :D.......and there were many before this one.

 

....and here's the earliest pic of ET I can find.  July 2005, so just eleven and a half years ago.  I don't know how you build layouts so quickly......

 

post-6950-0-83345000-1485514231_thumb.jpg

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gordon s

gordon s

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I think it would depend on what the lines were classed as ,i.e. Fast 'slow or good lines

Main lines would possibly be fresher ballast with shoulders and mabe the slow/ goods would be ash ballast more flat

 

Brian

 

 

Thanks Brian.  This gives me a clue.....

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/18451-peterborough-north/?p=2593454

Edited by gordon s
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tom82

tom82

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Despite rumours to the contrary I have been building pointwork for the last few days and now have around 15 towards the new layout (or my pension should I give up modelling and sell them).... :onthequiet:

 

Does this mean in 6 months time they will be available to purchase once there torn up? :O

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mightbe

mightbe

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I wouldn't say it's flat at all--you can clearly see shoulders and the fact that only the running lines are ballasted (note the size difference). The infill is ash. Aside from the flatness the scene as depicted in the model is a good likeness.

 

Quentin

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hayfield

hayfield

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I will throw my twopence in, just my preference to break up large areas of ballast visually.

 

Where each pair of lines diverge from the 6' way using the ballast shoulders in Templot, at least cesspits in not flat areas. As I said just to break up uniformity of large flat expanses 

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