Nick G Posted December 25, 2009 Share Posted December 25, 2009 OK, a thicko question from a modern image modeller. why were a few of these tanks in Green as opposed to Black? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold gwrrob Posted December 25, 2009 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 25, 2009 OK, a thicko question from a modern image modeller. why were a few of these tanks in Green as opposed to Black? The Western Region liked a nod to the past with its green livery. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
45568 Posted December 26, 2009 Share Posted December 26, 2009 It being Boxing Day I have had time to add the "bits" to my black 51A class 3. it had previously been run-in on rollers, and has spent a couple of hours trundling round at the head of 7 bachy Mk1's, with no problem at all!! nice one Bachmann! Cheers, Peter C. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
robmcg Posted December 26, 2009 Share Posted December 26, 2009 It being Boxing Day I have had time to add the "bits" to my black 51A class 3. it had previously been run-in on rollers, and has spent a couple of hours trundling round at the head of 7 bachy Mk1's, with no problem at all!! nice one Bachmann! Cheers, Peter C. I've been happily running a new Southern Region lined black version which is also excellent, straight from the box no problems, great detail, smooth runner, good adhesion. Congratulations Bachmann, very impressive. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bulleidnutter Posted December 26, 2009 Share Posted December 26, 2009 Received my early Christmas Present on Thursday morning. 82016 straight out of the box beautiful runner, managed to get 5 Bachmann Mark1s up a 1 in 55 gradient with 2 3rd radius curves without slipping and inch. Has anyone had any problems with either 82016 or 82005?? Maybe 82029 were the dodgy ones? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sweeps Posted December 26, 2009 Share Posted December 26, 2009 Anyone managed to fit the extra glazing? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Nevard Posted December 26, 2009 Share Posted December 26, 2009 It's a bit of a beauty! One thing that did strike me was the amount of oil over everything below the footplate - not an issue though and maybe this is normal for new models. Not tried to add the glazing yet, I imagine that's a body off job! For once I'm actually rather nervous of renumbering and weathering this one! Some snaps of it with the detail pack added which took about 15 mins... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Trainshed Terry Posted December 26, 2009 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 26, 2009 You pulled on the regulator to hard and bent it. Terry. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Nevard Posted December 26, 2009 Share Posted December 26, 2009 I'd had a few pints when I took these last night so quite likely! It should just pop back into its hole and straighten out. Also it was quite easy to dislodge the brake gubbins underneath as others have found out. I added a little cyano to help reduce the number of times it happening. These are certainly no toys anymore and a million miles away from their Ivatt 2-6-2 on the detail fragility front. Still a alovely model though! I hope to run it in tonight on my circle of radius 3 settrack - that's if that cat will let me! A pannier tank risking life and limb..... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold gwrrob Posted December 26, 2009 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 26, 2009 I'd had a few pints when I took these last night so quite likely! It should just pop back into its hole and straighten out. Also it was quite easy to dislodge the brake gubbins underneath as others have found out. I added a little cyano to help reduce the number of times it happening. These are certainly no toys anymore and a million miles away from their Ivatt 2-6-2 on the detail fragility front. Still a alovely model though! I hope to run it in tonight on my circle of radius 3 settrack - that's if that cat will let me! A pannier tank risking life and limb..... That picture would make a decent cat-tion contest......... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Captain Kernow Posted December 26, 2009 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 26, 2009 I hope to run it in tonight on my circle of radius 3 settrack - that's if that cat will let me! Probably because the cat's thinking 'what's he doing playing trains on my blanket?!'.... Anyway Chris - are you going to renumber it to 82041? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cctransuk Posted December 26, 2009 Share Posted December 26, 2009 I hope to run it in tonight on my circle of radius 3 settrack - that's if that cat will let me! Chris, Why not invest in a set of Bachrus rollers - my 82005 (soon to be 82004) is, as I type, completing it's statutory one hour run-in. (15 minutes half power forward; 15 minutes half power reverse; 15 minutes full power forward; 15 minutes full power reverse). It started out rather rough and 'surging'; now it's *much* improved. I'm gob-smacked to note that the valve rods - I think that's the name of the uppermost valvegear rods - are shuttling back and forth in a most realistic way. I haven't noticed this before on a Bachmann model - have I been going round with my eyes shut? Regards, John. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Black Hat Posted December 26, 2009 Share Posted December 26, 2009 Was that a typo for 71A shedcode!!!!! I agree about the black though. Dave It most certainly isnt!!! If it doesnt have a 5X-something shedcode ie the best are in the 50, 51 and 52 area, plus a letter then it isnt worth knowing about. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
robmcg Posted December 26, 2009 Share Posted December 26, 2009 Chris, Why not invest in a set of Bachrus rollers - my 82005 (soon to be 82004) is, as I type, completing it's statutory one hour run-in. (15 minutes half power forward; 15 minutes half power reverse; 15 minutes full power forward; 15 minutes full power reverse). It started out rather rough and 'surging'; now it's *much* improved. I'm gob-smacked to note that the valve rods - I think that's the name of the uppermost valvegear rods - are shuttling back and forth in a most realistic way. I haven't noticed this before on a Bachmann model - have I been going round with my eyes shut? Regards, John. I hope you don't mean genuine full speed in each direction! Surely that is like revving a car engine to death in neutral when new. That does not do a mechanism any favours. The valve motion you describe is excellent on these 3MTs... the best I've seen on RTR 00 models. Many have the eccentric on the middle driver offset 'wrong way' so both wheels can be made identically... one side is 'forward-of centre' one side 'behind-centre' and though it looks OK when running, the 'behind centre' position is quite wrong. Some recent models, like Hornby 4-6-2s and others, have almost no offset for the valve gear, which again isn't absolutely terrible, but doesn't look quite right when running. I'm not sure but I think the pin on the centre driver is a push fit on most Hornby with Walschaert's valve gear, but I'm not game to try forcing it. Bachmann are usually threaded set-screws which can come loose, and tightness can allow a little adjustment, but again, I don't really know... someone who knows more might say? this pic of a Bachmann 'Jubilee' shows what I mean by having the valve gear being driven 'from behind centre'... it might be nit-picking. Next we will be wanting variable gear-settings; forward, reverse, neutral.. in this pic the enginelooks to be forward at about 15% cutoff. Oops off-subject again! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
34theletterbetweenB&D Posted December 26, 2009 Share Posted December 26, 2009 ... I'm gob-smacked to note that the valve rods - I think that's the name of the uppermost valvegear rods - are shuttling back and forth in a most realistic way. I haven't noticed this before on a Bachmann model - have I been going round with my eyes shut? ... Yes, but don't be too hard on yourself, When last I looked the modelling mag reviewers hadn't noticed either. This feature has been present on many if not most of Bach's steamers from the A1 onwards, (haven't bought every model, thus the vagueness) there was a thread on an earlier incarnation of RMweb. Rather nice to get back a feature lost to UK RTR with the demise of H-D. On some of the models the expansion link is correctly formed as two parallel pieces, with the radius rod going through it; and I have tinkered with the K3 to the extent of proving to my own satisfaction that if a replacement moving bridle rod were fitted, the radius rod could be moved in the expansion link from full forward to full reverse gear. The potential is there for someone with small actuator skills to drive the bridle rod... It is usually possible to reposition the mispositioned return crank. A little work with a swiss file on the face of the crank pin can create new locating notches for the dogs in the return crank to engage in. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
robmcg Posted December 27, 2009 Share Posted December 27, 2009 Yes, but don't be too hard on yourself, When last I looked the modelling mag reviewers hadn't noticed either. This feature has been present on many if not most of Bach's steamers from the A1 onwards, (haven't bought every model, thus the vagueness) there was a thread on an earlier incarnation of RMweb. Rather nice to get back a feature lost to UK RTR with the demise of H-D. On some of the models the expansion link is correctly formed as two parallel pieces, with the radius rod going through it; and I have tinkered with the K3 to the extent of proving to my own satisfaction that if a replacement moving bridle rod were fitted, the radius rod could be moved in the expansion link from full forward to full reverse gear. The potential is there for someone with small actuator skills to drive the bridle rod... It is usually possible to reposition the mispositioned return crank. A little work with a swiss file on the face of the crank pin can create new locating notches for the dogs in the return crank to engage in. Ah! Thankyou for proving that I am not alone in enjoying the geometry of stream loco valve gear, and using terms like 'return crank', 'expansion link', 'radius rod' and 'bridle rod' correctly. I think I may have incorrectly described the return crank as the 'eccentric', but I hope readers will know what I meant, and that the position of the reversing lever is very important, and the rocking of the expansion link backwards-and-forwards is a lovely part of the machine in motion. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Nevard Posted December 27, 2009 Share Posted December 27, 2009 I found this just now - and for those technically challenged like me very useful http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Walschaert_static.png After adding the detail pack (which I have to say was a doddle even after a couple of pints of ale) it was the time to run the loco in. Ok, most will run the loco first just in case it's duff and needs to be returned, but I rarely use common sense when it comes to model railways! Last night my circle of track was laid (3rd radius set-track is about as tight as one can go with the front steps added) and the pretty little locomotive was given a good running in session to get everything to bed in nicely. After about an hour of gliding around the circle of track in both directions, it suddenly ground to a halt. I thought at first the cat had swiped the locomotive, but no, the Eccentric Crank (Return Crank) on one side had somehow or other come adrift and could be seen swinging from the expansion link even though the retaining screw was still in. After bit of muttering and the use of a small screwdriver, I managed a successful reassembly (with a dash of cyano for good measure which will no doubt void the guarantee) and all is now well. In time it will be interesting to read whether anyone else suffers this problem. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JERRY Posted December 27, 2009 Share Posted December 27, 2009 Dear cctransuk - I see you said your 82005 is soon to become 82004. I would do the same. Did you also have the Tri-Ang version many years ago ? That was its number. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Max Stafford Posted December 27, 2009 Share Posted December 27, 2009 It most certainly isnt!!! If it doesnt have a 5X-something shedcode ie the best are in the 50, 51 and 52 area, plus a letter then it isnt worth knowing about. :icon_thumbsup2: (I would've added 6x, but we know the nearest they got was Penrith, don't we...? ) Dave. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cctransuk Posted December 27, 2009 Share Posted December 27, 2009 Dear cctransuk - I see you said your 82005 is soon to become 82004. I would do the same. Did you also have the Tri-Ang version many years ago ? That was its number. I did, and still do have the Tri-ang version - though much detailed, repainted and renumbered as 82039, an S&D loco. My Bachmann model will become 82004 as this too was an S&D engine. I also have an unbuilt Kemilway kit which will, eventually, become 82041 - yet another S&D stalwart !! Regards, John Isherwood. http://www.cctrans.freeserve.co.uk/ Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
robmcg Posted December 28, 2009 Share Posted December 28, 2009 [ ... ] Last night my circle of track was laid (3rd radius set-track is about as tight as one can go with the front steps added) and the pretty little locomotive was given a good running in session to get everything to bed in nicely. After about an hour of gliding around the circle of track in both directions, it suddenly ground to a halt. I thought at first the cat had swiped the locomotive, but no, the Eccentric Crank (Return Crank) on one side had somehow or other come adrift and could be seen swinging from the expansion link even though the retaining screw was still in. After bit of muttering and the use of a small screwdriver, I managed a successful reassembly (with a dash of cyano for good measure which will no doubt void the guarantee) and all is now well. In time it will be interesting to read whether anyone else suffers this problem. I have had a few Bachmann engines with Walschaert's gear coming loose or adrift. I'm very skeptical about this 'running-in' requiring more than a few minutes, and a few minutes more with light load... although some models are quite tight in some part of the mechanism when new and seem better after an hour or so of running. I incline to general principles of 'running in' any mechanism, light load, time to cool, modest load, time to cool, various speeds, and so on, but it's like religion, nobody agrees. <g> Or just general running... On the subject of S&D have you seen 'Heyday of British Steam' videos or DVDs? Part 1 (from memory) has great b+w film of summer Saturday trains curling through Radstock, sometimes at considerable speed given the alignment...7Fs, 4Fs piloting Light Pacifics, 5MTs and even a grubby 'Evening Star'... 1959 to 1962-ish. Long trains with tired travel-stained faces in windows ... Sorry I don't know who produced them, but the name 'Pegasus' appears at the intro.... then the names; Bill Boswell, Nigel Fletcher, and Mark Tiddy. 6 sides of DVD divided largely into 'regions'. Great film. Best, Rob Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
geoffers Posted December 28, 2009 Share Posted December 28, 2009 Two green 'uns now renumbered 82004 and 82041. Yes did have the old Tri-ang 82004 in green. Still have the body and most of the bits somewhere. Favourite old loco that. All the remains rtr is the 7F 2-8-0 and midland 3F 0-6-0. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cctransuk Posted December 29, 2009 Share Posted December 29, 2009 I hope you don't mean genuine full speed in each direction! Surely that is like revving a car engine to death in neutral when new. That does not do a mechanism any favours. Yep - that's exactly how I run-in my new models. However, my H&M Walkabouts have a prototypical top speed. My method of running-in on Bachrus rollers is nothing like "revving a car engine to death in neutral when new". It is identical to running the loco light engine on-track at it's prototypical top speed - and only after 15 minutes in each direction at half speed. Anyway, the results speak for themselves - *much* improved running. Regards, John Isherwood. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Captain Kernow Posted December 29, 2009 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 29, 2009 I did, and still do have the Tri-ang version - though much detailed, repainted and renumbered as 82039, an S&D loco. My Bachmann model will become 82004 as this too was an S&D engine. I also have an unbuilt Kemilway kit which will, eventually, become 82041 - yet another S&D stalwart !! Glad to see that the onset of this (excellent) new model hasn't seen the demise of the Kemilway kit from other folk's aspirations, John. I haven't bought one of these new Bachmann ones yet, but I still have one more Kemilway kit to build as well... I've got an 82041 already, and I'm now thinking of 82044 in it's unique post-1963 lined black livery.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold gwrrob Posted September 7, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted September 7, 2015 Anyone have some tips on how to add a crew to this superb model from Bachmann please. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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